BBB's Electrical Thread

BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
After being in others' threads, Figured I'd start my own.
Try not to duplicate posts.
BBB's Electrical FAQ
​

General:

Volts X amps = watts ie: 120V x 3.3A = 396 watts
Watts / volts = amps ie: 450W / 120V = 3.75 amps

Typical US color code:
Black = hot (120VAC)
White = Neutral (zero volts)
Green/Bare = ground
Red = Traveler or second Hot
Traveler is used in 3-way switches
As a Second hot, it will be 120VAC 180degrees out of phase to the other Hot.

**Always verify what each wire does!! electrons are colorblind**

Typical outlet is connected to a 15amp breaker. Now, a typical breaker runs multiple outlets. Check what other outlets are being used.
You should only use 75-80% max of that 15amps So to be safe, only draw 11.25 amps from that breaker.

You can NOT just replace a breaker to get more amps to the outlet. You will need to run heavier gauge wire. The job of the breaker is to protect the wiring. Pull too much current and the insulation melts, then the conductors short out and a possible fire insures (and its inside the wall. ugly scene.)

Lights:
Watts is Watts. 400W worth of CFLs uses the same as 400W of MH/HPS (with ballast overhead in consideration) From an electrical savings vs light production, MUCH better off with the HPS/MH then the CFLs.

A typical inductive (magnetic) 400W ballast and bulb will pull 450W from the wall The ballast has over head. (the electrical savings claims of the digital are *only* on this ballast overhead. The bulb always pulls 400W)

You can not use a bulb of a different wattage in a ballast. The ballast and bulb have to match. There is a small exception. There are 430w bulbs that will work in a 400W ballast. These small changes are ok, but a 250 in a 400 is NOT ok.

Its been said (though I have never tried it) that you can use a MH bulb in a HPS ballast. But not the other way around. The difference between the 2 ballasts is the HPS has an igniter, while the MH does not. Its also been said (once again not verified by me) that you can add a switch to enable/disable the igniter to make the ballast a switchable ballast.

Wiring up a DIY ballast:
Read it. Can't help much here. Also, after all is said and done, its probably cheaper to just get a premade unit.

PC fan wiring:
I've seen this SO many times here. (I don't think they move enough air)
Biggest myth: Use a cellphone charger to run it.
I have *NEVER* seen a cellphone charger that put put 12VDC! (well maybe those old brick cellphones)
But just use a 12VDC (not 12VAC) wall-wart. Read the label. Most will have the positive on the center, but thats not written in stone! READ the wall wart.
Fan
RED = 12VDC
Black = Ground

Fan speed control.
AC motors do not like speed control, unless designed for it. The motors will hum if you use a speed control on a fan. It will also shorten its life. But you can try a ceiling fan speed control from Lowes or Home Cheapo . Also suggested is a router speed control from Harbor Freight.

Now, your standard 3 speed fan does not control the speed buy a voltage drop, but by 3 different angles on the field coils.

And why control the speed of a fan? Just spec it out right, and no need to slow it down.
(I like the S&P's. They have a 2 speed connection, are quiet and move good amount of air. I used the TD-150 at low speed cooling a 400W hood, never had a prob.)

Tools:
A Meter. Digital is standard (True RMS is NOT needed) $30 will get one good enough

This is $70, but is also an amp clamp

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100047661/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Circuit Tracer - Every home owner should have one. Plug into an outlet then use the wand along the breaker panel to find the breaker that runs that outlet.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=6170-12704-61-532&lpage=none


Voltage indicator pen

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=218710-1781-ET6204&lpage=none

Watt meter: Good for a home energy audit
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=239794-48019-THP103

GFI/Outlet tester. Tests GFI and if outlet is wired correctly
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=292761-12704-61-501&lpage=none

Hand tools:
Pliers
Screwdrivers
Wire Strippers
etc
 
streetlegal

streetlegal

Well-Known Member
Hey BBB, +rep for being so generous with ur time man...im surprised this aint 10 pages long yet?!

Edit: i seen ur posts on Al.b's thread discussing elec so maybe ull be able to help with elec q's from dealing with Aussie elec, ill be sure to have some q's sooner or later
 
streetlegal

streetlegal

Well-Known Member
BBB im not sure if u can help with this being that ur not a fridgee but can u give me a quick run down on how AC works..
My understanding is that hot air is sucked into the ac, passed over coolant which absorbs the heat out of the air then the cooled air is blown back in..
so if ur using co2 then none is actually sucked out and wasted?
Is it the same for splits, window types and portables?

thanks in advance for any help..

I just think it would serve as a good reference for peeps bcos there is
definitley confusion about whether ac's actually suck air out the room thus wasting co2..
 
BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
streetlegal said:
BBB im not sure if u can help with this being that ur not a fridgee but can u give me a quick run down on how AC works..
My understanding is that hot air is sucked into the ac, passed over coolant which absorbs the heat out of the air then the cooled air is blown back in..
so if ur using co2 then none is actually sucked out and wasted?
Is it the same for splits, window types and portables?

thanks in advance for any help..

I just think it would serve as a good reference for peeps bcos there is
definitley confusion about whether ac's actually suck air out the room thus wasting co2..
Click to expand...
Actually I do have HVAC license. ;) (but its just so I can work on my own and get freon. Don't do it professionally.)

Yup thats pretty much it. I haven't seen the workings of the split or portables. But all ACs have two coils, the Evaporator (the cold one) and the condenser (the hot one)

Compressor compresses the gas into a liquid, forces it through the condenser to cool it down (compressing it will heat it up a LOT) Then off to the evaporating coil though the metering device and as it changes from a liquid to a gas, it cools down. Then back into the compressor.

The hot one should never be 'in' the room/area being cooled. Otherwise the room would actually heat up. (the portables its not 'in' the room since it gets ducted out a window)

So that being said, any AC should keep room air in the room along with the CO2.

Now most do have a vent flap to bring in some outside air, if you opt for it.
 
streetlegal

streetlegal

Well-Known Member
BigBudBalls said:
Actually I do have HVAC license. ;) (but its just so I can work on my own and get freon. Don't do it professionally.)

Yup thats pretty much it. I haven't seen the workings of the split or portables. But all ACs have two coils, the Evaporator (the cold one) and the condenser (the hot one)

Compressor compresses the gas into a liquid, forces it through the condenser to cool it down (compressing it will heat it up a LOT) Then off to the evaporating coil though the metering device and as it changes from a liquid to a gas, it cools down. Then back into the compressor.

The hot one should never be 'in' the room/area being cooled. Otherwise the room would actually heat up. (the portables its not 'in' the room since it gets ducted out a window)

So that being said, any AC should keep room air in the room along with the CO2.

Now most do have a vent flap to bring in some outside air, if you opt for it.
Click to expand...
thanks for the info BBB.. yeh thats wot i thought.. But there is a guy here (mitus) who just finished building his room and he is going to cool the waste air from his portable AC and send it back in his sealed room so he doesnt waste co2, he thinks his portable is sucking air out bcos when its on there is a vacuum created in his room, he says if he opens up the door and lets go of the handle the door slams shut by itself..
its really bugging me cos i got co2 on the way and im confused if i need to change to a split system:wall:
everywhere i read says they re-circ the air but he says otherwise.
 
BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
streetlegal said:
thanks for the info BBB.. yeh thats wot i thought.. But there is a guy here (mitus) who just finished building his room and he is going to cool the waste air from his portable AC and send it back in his sealed room so he doesnt waste co2, he thinks his portable is sucking air out bcos when its on there is a vacuum created in his room, he says if he opens up the door and lets go of the handle the door slams shut by itself..
its really bugging me cos i got co2 on the way and im confused if i need to change to a split system:wall:
everywhere i read says they re-circ the air but he says otherwise.
Click to expand...
By his description it might. Also could just be a pressure differential due to 2 different temps. But to test if its being exhausted outside, spray a little lysol or other air freshener or the like and sniff outside.

Cooling the exhaust air is a losing battle, it just keeps going.
 
streetlegal

streetlegal

Well-Known Member
BigBudBalls said:
By his description it might. Also could just be a pressure differential due to 2 different temps. But to test if its being exhausted outside, spray a little lysol or other air freshener or the like and sniff outside.

Cooling the exhaust air is a losing battle, it just keeps going.
Click to expand...
BBB u smart ass, air freshener!! of course!..im such a dipshit lol
And ah yeh cooling that air seems pretty far out, power bill ups, more venting work blah blah..but he seems adamant bout it. thanks man.
 
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