Autopots

OzScott

Member
Folk...
I'm a complete AutoPot newbie with sub-optimal 1st grow underway.
Purchased the 4x XL 20L fabric pot system with 35L tank - using coco/perlite 70/30 & ~50mm clay ball bottom - no air-stone(s).
I used H&G nutrients during veg stage (8 wks) - then changed to GP3 nutes for flip & flower (girls are now ~2/3wks into flower).
The GreenPlanet range of nutes have specific AutoPot feed chart programs (H&G doesn't).
I also use their Plant Guard & ProCal additives.

I'm wanting your opinion please...
Is the attached GreenPlanet GP3 Feed Program Nutrient Element Ratio (mix ratio) and suggested EC/PPM in accord with what YOU KNOW as experienced AutoPot growers our girls will thrive on in the AutoPot system?
 

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micksob

Well-Known Member
I always tend to go a little lower on the ppm in autopots ...strain dependant nothing over 800 ppm in flower ....maybe other will chime in how they feed
 

ComputerSaysNo

Well-Known Member
using coco/perlite 70/30 & ~50mm clay ball bottom
Probably not enough perlite, and 50mm in the bottom could be too much (but maybe not a problem).

I'm using 50/50 clay pebbles/coco as the medium and 2.5 cm of clay pebbles in the bottom, works great.

The bottom layer of clay or perlite should be about as high as the waterline in the tray -- that is about 2.5-3cm. Then the plant won't get wet feet, but you still the capillary action for the bottom feed.
 

ComputerSaysNo

Well-Known Member
always tend to go a little lower on the ppm in autopots ...strain dependant nothing over 800 ppm in flower ....maybe other will chime in how they feed
GHE nutrients (TriPart), exactly half of what they recommend in the official feed chart.

I've also run Fulvic through the res with no issues (at full recommended strength, only during veg).
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I did read a post that mentioned plants getting their feet wet lol.
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The owner of the above tomato plants said he hasn't ever had root rot and I've absolutely no reason to doubt him?

It's neat compost from the garden centre and the saucers are filled daily with water.
 

ComputerSaysNo

Well-Known Member
I did read a post that mentioned plants getting their feet wet lol.
Plants in DWC or NFT have wet feet all the time. It is probably just another Cannabis grower myth that it is a bad thing for the plant -- at least in general it does not seem to be true.

Jorge Cervantes writes about a grower who used a big flood table with pots in it, he would flood it on Monday, go away for work until Friday, and have very happy plants...

The Autopot seems to be working better if there's 1 inch of buffer in the pot, also for reasons not related to the plant having wet feet or not (drainage, aeration, less of the medium sitting in water).
 
I'm just starting with autopots. Ive been in Sohum with SLF-100 and CX Regenaroot in the res, Phed. Everything went great in the sohum, flipped on the APs after 9 days and plants seemed to be feeding well but all the leaves died off an OMG plant I have and I'm getting what looks like a magnesium deficiency on my larger Tropocana Banana. Does anyone know who I could ask about troubleshooting living soil in Autopots?
 

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OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
FEA71C30-9150-4D3C-988E-CBE64ECA91A3.jpeg

here is a seedling, 3 days old, on bottom feeding via a string to the res, Saturation all the way to the top of the pot, soaked. Wet feet and everything else. Done one or 2 so far like this and they seem to love it. 50/50 peat and coarse vermiculite

19EC38E7-4E24-464C-907F-76A253672084.jpeg

Kind of the same thing on a larger scale, using auto pot bases to feed the wicks. Unfortunately, large scale not working yet (I think ), not positive the problem but have a few ideas.

that’s how my autopots are being used currently

sorry for the busted plants, ph meter died

always ran 700 ppm dyna grow grow in my pots and worked well
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
I'm just starting with autopots. Ive been in Sohum with SLF-100 and CX Regenaroot in the res, Phed. Everything went great in the sohum, flipped on the APs after 9 days and plants seemed to be feeding well but all the leaves died off an OMG plant I have and I'm getting what looks like a magnesium deficiency on my larger Tropocana Banana. Does anyone know who I could ask about troubleshooting living soil in Autopots?
I’d go to the organics section or general plant help section
 
Probably not enough perlite, and 50mm in the bottom could be too much (but maybe not a problem).

I'm using 50/50 clay pebbles/coco as the medium and 2.5 cm of clay pebbles in the bottom, works great.

The bottom layer of clay or perlite should be about as high as the waterline in the tray -- that is about 2.5-3cm. Then the plant won't get wet feet, but you still the capillary action for the bottom feed.
Would you mind sharing how you wash or buffer the clay pebbles before you use them in the bottom? Thanks
 

ComputerSaysNo

Well-Known Member
Would you mind sharing how you wash or buffer the clay pebbles before you use them in the bottom?
Clay pebbles should always be washed. I'm not 100% sure if the buffering is necessary, but it doesn't hurt.

How to wash: put pebbles in a large bin or tote, fill with tap water, stir vigorously, then skim off the pebbles (they will usually float to the top, while the washed off dust sinks to the bottom.
Repeat until there's not much dust coming off the pebbles anymore.

If you have a large sieve it's a little easier, simply wash the pebbles in the sieve and let the water drain freely.

You can also wash the pebbles inside the bag they come in. Punch plenty of holes in the bottom of the bag, cut open the top, then let water flow through the bag until it runs clear out of the bottom holes.

How to buffer: put the washed pebbles in acidic water (pH 5 or so, the exact value does not matter), let them soak for 24 hours or longer. Then rinse with tap water.
To test the buffered pebbles, put a handful in a glass of ph 6 water, let them sit for a couple of hours, then measure the pH; if it hasn't risen significantly, this means the pebbles won't raise the pH of the water they're sitting in.

You can do the pH test of the pebbles in a glass of water before you buffer them. Maybe it turns out they don't need buffering.
 
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Clay pebbles should always be washed. I'm not 100% sure if the buffering is necessary, but it doesn't hurt.

How to wash: put pebbles in a large bin or tote, fill with tap water, stir vigorously, then skim off the pebbles (they will usually float to the top, while the washed off dust sinks to the bottom.
Repeat until there's not much dust coming off the pebbles anymore.

If you have a large sieve it's a little easier, simply wash the pebbles in the sieve and let the water drain freely.

You can also wash the pebbles inside the bag they come in. Punch plenty of holes in the bottom of the bag, cut open the top, then let water flow through the bag until it runs clear out of the bottom holes.

How to buffer: put the washed pebbles in acidic water (pH 5 or so, the exact value does not matter), let them soak for 24 hours or longer. Then rinse with tap water.
To test the buffered pebbles, put a handful in a glass of ph 6 water, let them sit for a couple of hours, then measure the pH; if it hasn't risen significantly, this means the pebbles won't rise the pH of the water they're sitting in.

You can do the pH test of the pebbles in a glass of water before you buffer them. Maybe it turns out they don't need buffering.
Awesome thank you for the informative reply
 

mytwhyt

Well-Known Member
Use a laundry bag that has an 1/8" mesh.. Same type as dry cleaning bag used to keep clothes together during cleaning.. Slosh the bag full of hydroton around, rub the hydroton against itself.. Anything that comes off, falls to the bottom.. If you want to check, wash in three successive buckets, see how much comes off in the last one... Putting loose hydroton in a tub just makes it harder..
 
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