Anyone Mellow enough to help an absolute beginner?

ill take care of you...but its late so pm me a list of questions and in the morning ill be glad to help the best I can....and welcome to the site....

Thanks CALIGROWN any help would be appreciated I don't want this girl to die.

ROFL... well I'm a complete novice myself... but if you don't mind a "blind-leading-the blind" friend ...then I'll be happy to entertain you until the PROS arrive.

Your "so-called" friend sounds like a dick! (I believe the UK translation is WANKER). Anyway FUCK HIM (tell him to SOD OFF)! The Experts here will be along shortly to help you (and me).

Honestly I'm lost on your case.... except for possibly the 2 400wt. HPS. What is the size of your crop? 2 HPS @ 400 watts seems like too much if you have a small crop in a small area. Maybe they are getting burned????

I dunno... I'm just a novice guessing

first off you found a way better place full of usefull information and nice people willing to lend a helping hand other then you douche "friend"

Just a quick observation...to me it looks similar to heat burn....what are your temps??

maybe cut the light to one 400 for a couple weeks till it gets bigger...then kick on the second one when you start flower....

for 2 plants one 400hps is MORE then enough in a grow box.

Sorry to mix my paragraphs lol I have 2 400hps but I didnt use because I read that they put out the wrong color to much blue or green. But in this setup I'm using 1 600w hps
I'll get thermometer and reply lat time I checked was in the heat wave which was about 115 I think it's back to about 75f


double checked looks like the grow cupboard is 85-90

You guys are heaps helpful!
Thanks so much in advance!
I don't know if the digital thermometer is stuffed or not but the latest reading is 101f!!! far out! It definitely doesn't feel that hot in there, I guess that does explain the burning as well. I have just setup an evaporative air conditioner in the room. And set it to the light timer. The other unfortunate thing is I cannot make a hole through the roof as to set the Phat filter up there although I’d love too. Most of the heat in the room is generated from it sucking the heat out of the cupboard into the filter which is in the room. I know I need to re design things but I keep thinking in the back of my mind, “it works for other people”
Thanks guys

holy hell! 101 try and get that down 25 degrees or so. thatd be perfect.

Looks like I don't have sufficient privileges to PM yet

I don’t want to keep you'll stressed and re pm you all the time regarding various questions which may seem logical as I’ll try to source as much as possible myself too and read many books

But I guess the obvious question I’d like to know is can I lower the Ph by adding more Dutch Master “one” to the water as the Tap drinking water has a ph of 7.0 and I noticed that the more One I add the lower the ph is despite the instructions stating add 100ml per 10 liters the instructions said then adjust accordingly to get a ph of 5.8 so I guess when I add more the ph goes down?

Second is, well I think I know this lol how to lower the heat as grow room is 90 to 100f I’ve added a evaporative aircon and I put the lights up another 6” tonight. Hope it helps. And I just disconnected the Phat filter for now and put a second ducting from the inline fan to another room as to blow the heat away from this room.

3rd and last. How often should I water? I have hydroponics in pearllite so I’m basically set the timer to water them for 15minutes every 2 hours and off in the dark periods.
I’m not too sure on the flowering stage yet, but I have 5 weeks to learn I’m quite sure I can read and find plenty of info in that time for super flowering nutrients.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it! Hopefully with a bit of love I can save this one

I am fairly new myself, but I read ALOT and I have encountered two of the three problems you are having, and have overcome them. So....let me take a stab, and we will see if anyone disputes me.....
Question one....my tap PH is like 9.2. ALWAYS add your nutes before you ph your water. Add the nutes. wait 2 or 3 mins...test ph...add an acid (ph down is what I use and it is just food grade phosphoric) slowly and test ph after each drop until you achieve desired ph. Let it set a few mins and test again to see it has stabilized. That is what I do, per my extensive research and question asking.
Question 2.....I achieved getting temps from high 80'sf to the mid 70's by adding a more powerful exhaust fan than my intake fan. That way I am pulling out the hot air faster.. It works for me quite well.
Question 3....I have been told by my hydro store and by reading in many sources to feed three times a day for 15 mins in an ebb & flow system. Which is what I am using.

So, I hope I have helped. These are things I have encountered, and though a total nube, I am a researcher...so maybe I am passing some wisdom on to you.
May your harvests be bountiful!

The guys here are always cool (unless one is a dick/wanker)

pH'ing if your city uses chlorine, let it stand 24-28 hours for it to evaporate out then add the nutes and pH it.

Grow and enjoy

couldn't help but post after seeing bubs. Just a thought but I think I would go with 1 400w m/h for veg instead of the 600w hps. I think it would gererate less heat and more lumens as you wouldn't have to raise it as much as you are the 600w.

Thanks!! you dudes have been a world of help I never expected so much help and ideas.
platypusmann, in regards to the watering, would that also be consistent enough for pearl lite as it doesn't absorb water to well? I'll give it a go tho, tested ph today to be @ 6.3 . in regards to our water man! I can taste the chlorine

mexiblunt, quote me if I'm wrong, I probably am. Doesn't the 400hps have more blue's in it and the 600HPS more oranges for growing?

Thanks in advance you guys rock!

b8dw1fi said:

Thanks!! you dudes have been a world of help I never expected so much help and ideas.
platypusmann, in regards to the watering, would that also be consistent enough for pearl lite as it doesn't absorb water to well? I'll give it a go tho, tested ph today to be @ 6.3 . in regards to our water man! I can taste the chlorine

mexiblunt, quote me if I'm wrong, I probably am. Doesn't the 400hps have more blue's in it and the 600HPS more oranges for growing?

Thanks in advance you guys rock!

Click to expand...

You are right with the spectrum differences. I forgot to mention I would use the m/h for the veg stage and the hps for the flower stage. There are ppl on here that can answer that questipn for you better than I can can but I see alot of ppl using m/h for veg and hps for flower, hence the switchable balasts where you run a m/h bulb and switch it to a hps bulb using the same balast and fixture etc.
That coupled with your heat issues was my reasoning for that.

Here is a snipit fron the grow faqs.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:

Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.

Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.

On the watering..I do not know. I am using rockwool and hydroton....so I would ask around about perlite......I truly don't know the difference in watering frequency between different mediums.

I've gone a 3 power evaporative air conditioner in the room facing the growing cupboard with the door open just-a-little-bit I just bought a thermometer from the hardware so i'll check and edit in a little while.
That was a heaps interesting read by the way mexiblunt thanks!