bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Yeah on the bridgelux sheets im seeing 156 l/w @ 500ma.
...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
kmog33
Well-Known Member
That puts them closer to 48% efficient at 500ma. Should be around 50% at 350ma following its chart.
You could always spend a coup bucks more for the v22s and efficiency would jump quite a bit.
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Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
The V22 has too much forward voltage for the drivers we have. Maybe 1 V22 and 2 18s per driver, but that's splitting hairs...
kmog33
Well-Known Member
Word I forgot we were speaking about a specific driver. My bad. [emoji43]
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bobbuck
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to Figure out my heatsink sizes. I'd Like to do it passively. I want to do 3 bars with 3 cobs each that I can tie Together. So with the v18s @ 500ma and 48% efficiency, there is about 7.33 heat watts per cob that needs to be dissipated. So per bar I need a heatsink that can handle 22 watts bare minimum, and 30 watts if I wanted to up the light count to 4 per bar. Does this sound right? If I'm thinkin correctly the heatsink profile really does not need to be to large? Any input would help as I'd like to get an order together today!
Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
The cheapest profile is $0.32 per inch. A 30 inch piece will dissipate 23 watts of heat passively. You'd need 3 of them, 90 inches, 28.80 before shipping and handling. The next cheapest option would be the 4.8 profile at .98 per inch and 1 36 inch piece would work passively. Doing it evenly, maybe 3 16 inch pieces would work better for you. That would handle just under 90 watts total.
SamsonsRiddle
Well-Known Member
does anyone make any holders for the v22's?
Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
Kapton tape and thermal adhesive.
SamsonsRiddle
Well-Known Member
any way without soldering?
Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
Not that I'm aware of. The Vero series has small solderless connectors available and they come with mounting holes. Even using a vero, I still use kapton tape, thermal adhesive, and solder.
healingpath
New Member
Do somebody please know a good supplier for Europe for vero 29? are the vero 29 v2 version released yet? Thx guys
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Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
Digikey.com as far as I know, they only stock the vero 29 in the V2 version the old version is still listed but not stocked.
bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. I think ill go with the smaller profile and use active cooling for safety reasons. I ordered 3 v18s to play with first due to being stuck at work for the next two weeks strait. I accidentally ordered the 90 cri instead of the 80 cri. beSides l/w output is there a big disadvantage to the 90 cri? I'll be using them for a veg light. Thanks
SamsonsRiddle
Well-Known Member
I have a feeling it won't be this easy my first time, lol. So all I need is a 325-350C adjustable soldering iron and some tin solder?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Bob- you should be fine with the 90 cri. I have an area using 90cri and an area with 80cri, and I am having a hard time seeing a difference between the 2.
Kevin the Great
Well-Known Member
I
Ess I use a lead/tin wire and I also use tinning flux. Flux helps a lot in my opinion.
littlejacob
Well-Known Member
Bonjour
You should go with mouser if you want to pay more or try kb or cutter to pay less!
And for everything else you have www.tme.com I didn't find a cheapest way for EU!
CU
littlejacob
Well-Known Member
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Tinning flux is what is in the middle of the solder. It helps spread the heat faster. It is also what smokes when soldering. Have you noticed when there is no smoke, it is harder to solder. That is because all the flux has burnt off.
bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I'll probably incorporate them with the 80 cri when I build my flowering light. Do you run them harder due to the lower lumen output?