All Natural Organics. The Dons' Summaries + FAQ Thread. <2017-'18>

TheBeardedBudzman

Well-Known Member
I went to get some worms from my worm bin, but I think that I chased them off with the grass clippings. It is steaming hot. It's a learning process for me! Next fall, I am going to run the leaves through the shredder more than once! I just used a lawn mower to pick them up, but I am going to run them through the shredder also.
The more the better on shredding any compostable for sure. So many better N sources than grass. Cut Grass is best used right where it’s cut. A thin layer is useful to kickstart slow-going hot piles

I’ve made the mistake of feeding really fresh materials with my worms recently too. If you just have to put grass in your compost systems let it age a bit first. Same with manure- let it age a little before tossing in with worms.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
The more the better on shredding any compostable for sure. So many better N sources than grass. Cut Grass is best used right where it’s cut. A thin layer is useful to kickstart slow-going hot piles

I’ve made the mistake of feeding really fresh materials with my worms recently too. If you just have to put grass in your compost systems let it age a bit first. Same with manure- let it age a little before tossing in with worms.
Very good advice!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I went to get some worms from my worm bin, but I think that I chased them off with the grass clippings. It is steaming hot. It's a learning process for me! Next fall, I am going to run the leaves through the shredder more than once! I just used a lawn mower to pick them up, but I am going to run them through the shredder also.
Best way to learn the right way is to do the wrong way asap.. now you're wiser!!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I’ve been making fucking mistakes like crazy, simple shit. But I’m a newb and learning tons of stuff thru trial and error so it’s cool.
Thats how its done! The fastest way to succeed is to fail faster.. once you get that outta the way, you are golden!

Im only 4 years into growing, and the trichs are looking like this cause I took a similar approach! Experiment experiment experiment... train measure adjust.. try fail try again.. of course, great genetics and soil are the real foundations, but I try help them express to the fullest too! Challenge the norms, read like a mofo, follow your gut, and they'll come..keep up the great work!

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newgrow16

Well-Known Member
Interesting.. I see the small ones are drooping already, I wonder why.

I would be tempted to question the seed stock before I question the DE Rock.. especially since you rinsed it and sped the veg up.. but kinda strange, you would think the beans would be good.

DE Rocks have never caused any harm in my garden, as topdressing or in the mix globally.. roots LOVE em!

You should try again if you can.. same strains, longer veg.. and just regulate that enviro..
Thanks, I am going to try the de rock topdressing again.

And one of my problems you already identified, environment! I tried to grow in outdoor shed in southern California, no air conditioning just air flow. Too many temperature swings and very low humidity.

New to this organic growing and could not get past the "flood then dry out the soil" water routine. Still having water issues, must be a slow learner.

Climate right split air going in tomorrow, electrical upgrades today and tomorrow .
 

Maineahh

Member
I'm wondering what is the quickest way for me to break down the roots in my soil from my outdoor grow to get the soil ready for next year. Also going to dig holes next year and put soil in there just because plants got too big this year for the pots they were in. Should I dig the holes now and put the soil in for them to Winter over? Or can I just leave the soil in the pots they're in and they can winter over in there and then work on the holes in the spring?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I am going to try the de rock topdressing again.

And one of my problems you already identified, environment! I tried to grow in outdoor shed in southern California, no air conditioning just air flow. Too many temperature swings and very low humidity.

New to this organic growing and could not get past the "flood then dry out the soil" water routine. Still having water issues, must be a slow learner.

Climate right split air going in tomorrow, electrical upgrades today and tomorrow .
Yes, environment is huge, its a pre requisite to excellent herb, for sure. Especially when going all natural and organic / probiotic. We are no longer force feeding salts down their throat, but instead, trying to empower them to do what they know best, so environment plays an even bigger part in the play now.

I am sure that with your line of work, there is nothing you can't get to the bottom of, and figure out, so don't be disheartened at all!

Ok top dress on the spent soil went smoothly, would you do the same regimen/amount for a top dress at flip? Thanks!
Glad to hear, mate. Don't mind the late reply, hope you're doing well. I find the best way is to make a full spectrum compost (not only with a balance of fungal dom and batceria dom composts, but with amendments to the usual spec / rates, as well as aeration, and with that, premium blend of aerations, both mineral lending and humus lending). All pre mellowed / fermented / cooked or however you want to say it.

Then with that, any time pots are low, you can topdress with the one stop shop solution.

Of course, after the 4 wk mark, its water only for me, always. 100 days in a row of water only, boy do I love that.


I'm wondering what is the quickest way for me to break down the roots in my soil from my outdoor grow to get the soil ready for next year. Also going to dig holes next year and put soil in there just because plants got too big this year for the pots they were in. Should I dig the holes now and put the soil in for them to Winter over? Or can I just leave the soil in the pots they're in and they can winter over in there and then work on the holes in the spring?
Add worms. Or a simple EWC tea at least. Perhaps some labs. More than enough to break down roots. 2 weeks in a living soil, you would be amazed at what happens with doing nothing.

I think either way will be fine, the hole route will give you more fungals next year probably, which could increase yields, but might kill some worms and bacteria off, (not that its hard to counter that, simply have a worm farm inside for the winter so your holes can get a nice fresh bacterial topping in spring.)
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Glad to hear, mate. Don't mind the late reply, hope you're doing well. I find the best way is to make a full spectrum compost (not only with a balance of fungal dom and batceria dom composts, but with amendments to the usual spec / rates, as well as aeration, and with that, premium blend of aerations, both mineral lending and humus lending). All pre mellowed / fermented / cooked or however you want to say it.

Then with that, any time pots are low, you can topdress with the one stop shop solution.

Of course, after the 4 wk mark, its water only for me, always. 100 days in a row of water only, boy do I love that.
That's cool no biggie, thanks for the response. Did you ever do a topdress at all for the flip? I haven't tried it, only done teas and foliars but I've read it can be helpful. But I dunno I'm thinking either 1/2 strength or full strength from the spent soil topdress which worked really well with just kelp and neem actually
 
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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
That's cool no biggie, thanks for the response. Did you ever do a topdress at all for the flip? I haven't tried it, only done teas and foliars but I've read it can be helpful. But I dunno I'm thinking either 1/2 strength or full strength from the spent soil topdress which worked really well with just kelp and neem actually
Well not always, if I really nail a soil recipe, and pot size, in accordance with the cultivars needs, as well as the room slash enviro, it can be water only for 100 days straight, no sweat.. just do a couple foliar etc tricks and ramp up the pink trichs and terps big time...

However, every round is a bit different and gets its own reactions, but in general, I usually have full spectrum compost and or full spectrum EWC on hand, so those would be my first two picks, if available.. this of course takes some planning and pro-active behaviour.

Then the back up option for me would be soil that had some amendments of choice added..at least 2 or 3 weeks ahead of time, but not full blown EWC or leaf mould compost, which can take 6 to 150 weeks to prepare, depending on tactics and whether bacterial or fungal composts..

If option 1 and 2 were not avail on hand, choice 3 for me would be to do a couple spikes and topdressing thin type layers of amendments themselves, usually mixed with castings 50-50.

My go to ones usually being kelp and neem, like you, its amazing what those 2 alone can do, but yea, my main mineral being my full spectrum GRD blend of 3 types, or my basalt/gypsum blend.. but again, I prefer to mix with something really alive like ewc, to help mellow / ferment / buffer them in..

That being said, if on an acreage or farm, then stinging nettles, borage and comfrey, those three plants alone, would probably be enough to grow the dank vegan herb, with a bit of help from any of the minerals outlined above.

Hope that paints a better picture!
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Well not always, if I really nail a soil recipe, and pot size, in accordance with the cultivars needs, as well as the room slash enviro, it can be water only for 100 days straight, no sweat.. just do a couple foliar etc tricks and ramp up the pink trichs and terps big time...

However, every round is a bit different and gets its own reactions, but in general, I usually have full spectrum compost and or full spectrum EWC on hand, so those would be my first two picks, if available.. this of course takes some planning and pro-active behaviour.

Then the back up option for me would be soil that had some amendments of choice added..at least 2 or 3 weeks ahead of time, but not full blown EWC or leaf mould compost, which can take 6 to 150 weeks to prepare, depending on tactics and whether bacterial or fungal composts..

If option 1 and 2 were not avail on hand, choice 3 for me would be to do a couple spikes and topdressing thin type layers of amendments themselves, usually mixed with castings 50-50.

My go to ones usually being kelp and neem, like you, its amazing what those 2 alone can do, but yea, my main mineral being my full spectrum GRD blend of 3 types, or my basalt/gypsum blend.. but again, I prefer to mix with something really alive like ewc, to help mellow / ferment / buffer them in..

That being said, if on an acreage or farm, then stinging nettles, borage and comfrey, those three plants alone, would probably be enough to grow the dank vegan herb, with a bit of help from any of the minerals outlined above.

Hope that paints a better picture!
Very helpful actually, thank you. I'll give a few of these a shot. Leaves are a lighter green than I'd prefer at this stage right at flip so I'm thinking it definitely needs something. They vegged out longer than they should have (cuts with no vigor) not keeping them around after this lol
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Very helpful actually, thank you. I'll give a few of these a shot. Leaves are a lighter green than I'd prefer at this stage right at flip so I'm thinking it definitely needs something. They vegged out longer than they should have (cuts with no vigor) not keeping them around after this lol
Great.

Yeah I have access to some crazy glacial peat based soil that is high in N, and I also like to push my kelp just a touch, depending on the run, so rarely do I have early faders.. if using DIY compost they may stay green throughout..

a very mild foliar of epsom followed by aloe / coconut, along with a topdressing of DIY castings with a bit of extra kelp and GRD in there, they should be back to lush in no time.

Alfafa SST could be another good option here.

Of course, the best thing is working with vigorous cuts, but I'm sure you can salvage things best you can still

8)
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
My go to ones usually being kelp and neem, like you, its amazing what those 2 alone can do, but yea, my main mineral being my full spectrum GRD blend of 3 types, or my basalt/gypsum blend.. but again, I prefer to mix with something really alive like ewc, to help mellow / ferment / buffer them in..
I've been looking for a good source of micros and I've been using different mixes and having them tested. When I push with the Kelp, I get high sodium. When I push with rock dusts, I get high Mg and Ca levels. The problem is that I still don't get enough Mn or Zn from using them. Hyroot said that Bokashi and LABS could be the answer, do you agree? I'm not trying to pin you against him, just looking for answers. Maybe you could explain it in a different way that makes sense? Maybe, the rock dust needs longer to break down but I get an immediate impact on Ca and Mg when I use basalt and glacial, but not really a boost in micros. However, I did cut back on kelp and my boron is low for the 1st time...

I started a worm bin and pure leaf mold last year and the worm bin looks done, but the leaf mold still looks dry in the middle. I am getting good fungi development in the leaf mould though. It's just painfully slow, I probably need to turn it or something. I also think that turning it would destroy the mycelium, it's always a conundrum for me.
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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I hold you and Hyroot in high regard. I'm just lost right now... I know that there is truth to veggies having trace minerals, I just don't understand how to use it yet. My worm bin looks mostly done, but I can still see uncomposted leaf material. So, I'm running soil w/o compost or EWC. Maybe my soil test have led me astray, but when I test my compost and worm castings they really don't have the Mn that I am always having trouble with. Other micros seem to be low too.

Since I started paying attention to ferments, I added some fermented veggie soup to my worm bin. I don't add salt, meat, or anything other than herbs. Just overnight, it looks like the worms made a breeding ball under it.
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