aeroponic sprayer question

zero1776

Active Member
Which plastic sheeting is best for long term use, and more hygienic? Once the FRP troughs are built do they hold there new shape on there own? I like to build things that are sturdy and are able to last a while. I prefer to use a material that once built would need littele or no external bracing something I could use like these guys use their Rubbermaid totes just bigger and heavier
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
Sounds good looks like Ill be building a 6ft runner this way to try it out once I get the accum. tank and HP pump. Thanx for the help
Make sure you go a lot wider than 6" otherwise you`ll have wall to wall roots blocking the mist.
 

fatman7574

New Member
The tubes can be used to make what ever size t yo wish. The size I mentioned works very well for low pressure sprayers powered by a Iwaki 22 psi Pump with a solenoid so as to have the pump run constantly but only spray intermittently. When the sprayers payers are not spraying the water is just diverted back to the reservoir. For a higher pressure system where you do not wish a mister between every plant then it would be better to make the tubes by rolling the tubes so that you get 4' long tubes. With the 4" overlapping seam you would be able to easily make a tube that is about 24.25 inches tall and twelve inches wide with a rounded top and bottom 12 inches wide. It is as versatile as you want to make it. The FRP is much heavier weight plastic than the polyethelene plastic and it is fiber reinforced. It is not as flexible though but for 12" diameter half circle bend for the top and bottom the bending can be done without heating the panels. With the FRP the plastic adhesive is much stronger and therfore is much better for a potentially roughly handled system than the thermal weld adhesive used with polyethylene. The poly tubes could gain by the addition of some plastic pop rivets or a few nylon nuts and bolts. The thinner plastic is just too thin tand therefore to flexible to use for tubes wider than about 6 inches so they really are more just SOG tubes. To make the short tubes longer you form first one tube then mark one end. make a second tube and when rolling it placed one end around the outside of the first tube. this will be the second tube or the down hill tube from the first. Mark it with the same labeling as the fr first so you will know later which ones fit together. If you need longer just continue the process. I have some tubes in use that are 31 foot long. The tubes would need to be inside a frame trough or a plywood th rough other wise they will just be otherwise they are just 22 inch diamter tubes. The FRP are rigid enough to use simply as 22 inch diameter tubes. They wouuld however actually be stronger forced into a trough. t Yes a few cross pices ould need to be use to hold them down int the troughs.
 

zero1776

Active Member
you seem quite kowledgable about these systems I have a question about some clones I just added to my Aero Flo60 a week ago. Most took right off 13 or so are lagging behind the roots on these are a little yellow would you pull these and clone fresh ones, or try to fix the problem? I had one grow go bad do to root rot and have no desire to repeat that. I do use Bobs Brew which is suposed to help treat the water so it makes it dificult for pathogens to survive and I keep my water at 68 F. if I did try to save them would running the runners as low as posiable help or more bobs brew with deep water.When I first add clones I run deep until I have some decent roots if it weren't for these 13 or so I could run them empty :wall: Sorry its a little off topic but if I ask the Hydro shop they will just try to sell me stuff and nothing they sold me for the root rot helped last time just need good advice.Thanx
 

fatman7574

New Member
Four week veg of clones in veg then budding a are going to be fair sized plants so I would space for one pers square foot, with a longer grow as in nCO2 and temps below 80 degree F. ie that would work well with tubes 1 foot wide as I last described made with FRP rolled into 4 foot long tubes. Tubes side by side squeezed down to 12 inches wide and 39.15 inches tall. Had to check that math out again. That is the right math with a 4" overlap seam. That should be plenty wide enough to get mist arround the roots and tall enough to get a long root mass before touching the tube bottoms. Just don't grow for near 100% root mass but allow for some less efficient nutrient spraying to get a combib nation of secondary and hair roots soas to not bonzai the plants to much and tp prevent filling the tubes too early on with too many hair roots.
 

zero1776

Active Member
Four week veg of clones in veg then budding a are going to be fair sized plants so I would space for one pers square foot, with a longer grow as in nCO2 and temps below 80 degree F. ie that would work well with tubes 1 foot wide as I last described made with FRP rolled into 4 foot long tubes. Tubes side by side squeezed down to 12 inches wide and 39.15 inches tall. Had to check that math out again. That is the right math with a 4" overlap seam. That should be plenty wide enough to get mist arround the roots and tall enough to get a long root mass before touching the tube bottoms. Just don't grow for near 100% root mass but allow for some less efficient nutrient spraying to get a combib nation of secondary and hair roots soas to not bonzai the plants to much and tp prevent filling the tubes too early on with too many hair roots.
Sounds good any thoughts on the root issue I'm having
 
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