aeroponic sprayer question

zero1776

Active Member
Whats up I have a Aero Flo 60 running on a cycle timer for the pump 30sec on 6.3min in between spray cycles. I'm using a water chiller set at 68deg F using GH advanced recirculation feeding schedule full line except subculture M & B using Bobs Brew to keep Res. nice change every 2 weeks use flora clean when I change out Res. Im looking to upgrade spray setup to some thing that will atomize a lot better . anyone try anything that can atomize well with 60 psi? any help is appreciated
 

zero1776

Active Member
No healing necessary just info I bought a Aero flo even with some reviews that Ive read that were negative the way I see it this is my second grow with it I will continue to make improvements until I have moded every thing and can only do better by building a better system.No better way to learn how to do something right than working with something done wrong. All mods will preferably be able to be used in the new design.First mod I started with a cycle timer set at 30sec on 6min off and so on.Next mod bought a pump that will push 30ft head, So now I need suitable atomizers for what the pump can handle. Any help in picking the correct sprayers would be appreciated
 

zero1776

Active Member
4000 mh sun pulse 2 of the 3k 2 of the 6.4 both spectrums veg and flower last 2 weeks replacing the 6.4 with the 10k uv running on lumitec dig. ballasts. The hoods are growzillaz with 1 of each spectrum per hood all moving on a lightrail 5 I modified to run the higher rpm gearing out of a light rail 3.5 to get the time it takes to travel the 12ft cut in half.Thanx for the interest
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
Next mod bought a pump that will push 30ft head, So now I need suitable atomizers for what the pump can handle. Any help in picking the correct sprayers would be appreciated
Your pump has 13.3 psi, not enough for atomizing nozzles but ok for sprayers or sprinklers.
 

zero1776

Active Member
Your pump has 13.3 psi, not enough for atomizing nozzles but ok for sprayers or sprinklers.
Yeah I did some research and came to that conclusion last night looks like I need to get a high pressure pump and a accumulator tank with some controls oh well should get all that in place in time for the next grow.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
70-90psi is ok with an accumulator. You`ll also need a lot more space to accomodate the mist than aero flo tubes.
 

fatman7574

New Member
I think you will see a lot of improvement with regular spray heads with the higher head/pressure pump. Most people use flow biased pumps and a 30 foot head pump is a pressure biased pump. Smaller volume but higher pressure. Many peope are using pumps that barely put out 5 pounds of pressure and therefore get trickling strams out of their sprayers rather than a spray.

Most low pressure sprayers are designed for 15 to 35 psi. It is quite possible to buy a pump with a 30 foot head pressure that puts out at least 15 to 20 psi and a few put out 30 psi. Your talking Iwaki pumps however. Something like a Fluroplastic pump for the 30 psi. Big bucks and about 375 watts draw.

http://www.iwakiamerica.com/products/wmd.htm
 

zero1776

Active Member
70-90psi is ok with an accumulator. You`ll also need a lot more space to accomodate the mist than aero flo tubes.
just want to upgrade within reason the Aero flo and do some side experiments with a hp aero setup if I were to build my own what tube diameter would be my min.-max option? I like the whole runner thing opposed to pods. Any good links to a HP aero setup in large tubes?:mrgreen:
 

zero1776

Active Member
thanx for the info. I have a pump Im going to try in the LP aero system see how I like it with actual sprayers and be working on a HP setup would like to make it a HP setup in large diameter tubes need help working out the details on what diameter tubes I would need or if I would have to go pod style.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Like the setup would like to do in a HP setup like this in large tubes.
I am the only one I know of on this forum that is using what I call large deep tubes. They are simply made out of sheet plastic obtained from Home Depot. They are made from 4' by 8' sheets. They are rolled into a round tube with a four inch overlap which is glued. The rough approximation of the circumference of a circle is pi * the diameter Therefore the approximate diameter of the tube will be 44/3.14 = 14 inches.

However this is much wider than needed and taller is better. The deeper the tubes the less roots that will be laying in the bottom of the tubes. So picture pushing in the sides of the tubes until the tubes are only six inches wide and are essentially now a rectangle 12.6 inches tall and six inches wide with a 6 inch diameter half circle for a top and bottom. This makes each tube 6 inches wide and 18.6 inches tall.

Home Depot sells FRP panels which are stiff and need to be heated with a heat source to bend down to a 6 inch diameter circle. They also have really flexible cheaper panels that are flexible enough to easily roll. The sides of these tubes need to be glued to each other and the trough sides though. The tubes are simply forced into a plywood trough with an inside measurement equal to 6 X the number of parallel tubes used and the inside height of the trough is 18.6 inches.

Narrow strips of wood are attached to the top of the trough every few feet to keep the trough from bowing and to keep the tubes from popping out if using the stiffer FRP sheets. A hole saw is used to make the holes for the net pots. The ends are simply cut in the shape of the rectangle with the tow half circles. Cover these on the inside with the plastic and simply force fit them into place. Cut an inch off the bottom of the ends plates at the drain ends and simply drain to plastic gutters.

The cheap flexible sheets are simply polethylene plastic like a rubbermaid plastic. They are simply opaque white sheets. There are no really good solvent cements for polethylene plastics but Weld-On #1829 works pretty well. The preferred method of handling the seams is to preferred them. I use a plastic welder by Laramy but there are some simple cheap ones sold on ebay that work really well with this thin plastic. These only cost about 50$ http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m38.l1313&_nkw=plastic+welder&_sacat=See-All-Categories versus a used Laramy at $250 or more. http://cgi.ebay.com/LARAMY-PLASTIC-WELDER_W0QQitemZ370324052616QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5639089a88 The Laramy requires that you also have an air compressor. They work exceptionally well though.
 

clydefrog

Well-Known Member
you could also glue those same panels to plywood (use the tub surround glue that comes it tubes like caulk) and make box-like chambers. it's a little more effort, but a little less engineering if you can't wrap your head around the tube concept.
 

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
I am the only one I know of on this forum that is using what I call large deep tubes. They are simply made out of sheet plastic obtained from Home Depot. They are made from 4' by 8' sheets. They are rolled into a round tube with a four inch overlap which is glued. The rough approximation of the circumference of a circle is pi * the diameter Therefore the approximate diameter of the tube will be 44/3.14 = 14 inches.

However this is much wider than needed and taller is better. The deeper the tubes the less roots that will be laying in the bottom of the tubes. So picture pushing in the sides of the tubes until the tubes are only six inches wide and are essentially now a rectangle 12.6 inches tall and six inches wide with a 6 inch diameter half circle for a top and bottom. This makes each tube 6 inches wide and 18.6 inches tall.

Home Depot sells FRP panels which are stiff and need to be heated with a heat source to bend down to a 6 inch diameter circle. They also have really flexible cheaper panels that are flexible enough to easily roll. The sides of these tubes need to be glued to each other and the trough sides though. The tubes are simply forced into a plywood trough with an inside measurement equal to 6 X the number of parallel tubes used and the inside height of the trough is 18.6 inches.

Narrow strips of wood are attached to the top of the trough every few feet to keep the trough from bowing and to keep the tubes from popping out if using the stiffer FRP sheets. A hole saw is used to make the holes for the net pots. The ends are simply cut in the shape of the rectangle with the tow half circles. Cover these on the inside with the plastic and simply force fit them into place. Cut an inch off the bottom of the ends plates at the drain ends and simply drain to plastic gutters.

The cheap flexible sheets are simply polethylene plastic like a rubbermaid plastic. They are simply opaque white sheets. There are no really good solvent cements for polethylene plastics but Weld-On #1829 works pretty well. The preferred method of handling the seams is to preferred them. I use a plastic welder by Laramy but there are some simple cheap ones sold on ebay that work really well with this thin plastic. These only cost about 50$ http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m38.l1313&_nkw=plastic+welder&_sacat=See-All-Categories versus a used Laramy at $250 or more. http://cgi.ebay.com/LARAMY-PLASTIC-WELDER_W0QQitemZ370324052616QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5639089a88 The Laramy requires that you also have an air compressor. They work exceptionally well though.
This I have to try, thanks bro
 

zero1776

Active Member
Sounds good looks like Ill be building a 6ft runner this way to try it out once I get the accum. tank and HP pump. Thanx for the help
 
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