A Guide To Colloidal Silver

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Many thanks for your reply. I really believe the Maui wasn't a good subject, it was as stable as a plant could get. But I do believe your comments on small particles has a lot to do with keeping the plant healthy, with my setup it only took a few hrs to get close to 100ppm, so I'm sure the particle size was larger. I'm going to space my electrodes a little further apart, and clean more frequently. I'll also reduce the amount of spray per application but increase the number of applications. It will most likely be 2016 before I try again. Thanks again for your post.
No problem. Remember, you don't need more than 20-25ppm CS for a full reversal, and the benefit of staying so low, is that you probably won't burn the plant as much, if at all. After being strained, your solution should look like regular drinking water, until you shine a bright light through it. As long as you start when you notice preflowers, the entire branch (or plant if you sprayed the whole thing) should grow with only male pollen sacs. If you start too late, when the flowering hormones are already in full gear, it can be much harder to get a good reversal, if you are able to get one at all.

Your Maui strain is a photoperiod, yes? If so, you should grow some clones of it, or take clones of a plant you already have growing from that strain, and as soon as they are rooted, start spraying them with CS. If you do that for about a week, before putting them on a flowering light schedule, and continuing spraying until male flowers form, the plant should definitely reverse for you. If not, it really is a hardy, stubborn, monster of a female, and should definitely be kept around and bred with.

Also. in terms of pollen production... You might not get a ton of pollen falling from each flower. Sometimes, you'll have to pick out the stamens with your fingers or tweezers, and then hit them with something like your nail, or a credit card edge, on a glass surface, to cause the pollen to come out. You don't need very much viable pollen, to get a bunch of seeds.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
No problem. Remember, you don't need more than 20-25ppm CS for a full reversal,

Your Maui strain is a photoperiod, yes? If so, you should grow some clones of it, or take clones of a plant you already have growing from that strain, and as soon as they are rooted, start spraying them with CS. If you do that for about a week, before putting them on a flowering light schedule, and continuing spraying until male flowers form, the plant should definitely reverse for you. If not, it really is a hardy, stubborn, monster of a female, and should definitely be kept around and bred with.
I got the Maui as a 6th gen clone in late 2010, it was one of those wonderful plants. The last run was an 18th gen and it made it's final cross with a Bay-11 purple male. I have many crosses during these yrs, 2 that are real keepers. Always wanted some fem seeds of this girl but it never happened.

After my HI vacation in Dec I'll start a Maui Bay pheno hunt, find the right pheno, and then I'll be trying this again. With a lower ppm elixir.

One more time thanks for your post and time. :clap: I'm sure it will help others.
 

tazz&indy

Well-Known Member
Hi, my auto/fem has finished her spraying treatment and shows lots of balls, they are presently empty.
How long does it take for the pollen to start forming.
Thanks
 

Gbuddy

Well-Known Member
@everythinsHazy
you have done a great job here man! Best Tutorial I have seen on the topic so far.

Just to see if I understood everything right...
I start spraying 1 week befor flipping light to 12-12 and repeat spraying untill the first sacs start to open right?
Do I have to repeat the application when the first sacs open or do I completly stop spraying at this time?

Thanks for your time and effort!

Peace
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
@everythinsHazy
you have done a great job here man! Best Tutorial I have seen on the topic so far.

Just to see if I understood everything right...
I start spraying 1 week befor flipping light to 12-12 and repeat spraying untill the first sacs start to open right?
Do I have to repeat the application when the first sacs open or do I completly stop spraying at this time?

Thanks for your time and effort!

Peace
Thanks man! Glad to help.

And yea, you have the right process. You shouldn't have to respray once the first pollen sacs start opening. In fact, it can be counterproductive if it gets inside opening pollen sacs and wets the pollen.

Edit: I'd like to add that if you haven't already grown out and flowered a clone of the plant you are trying to reverse, you should either do so, or wait until you see that it is a going to be a full on female before spraying, otherwise, if you get hermie pollen sacs, or if it is a male, you'll never know the difference from CS induced female pollen sacs.
 
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Gbuddy

Well-Known Member
Thanks man! Glad to help.

And yea, you have the right process. You shouldn't have to respray once the first pollen sacs start opening. In fact, it can be counterproductive if it gets inside opening pollen sacs and wets the pollen.

Edit: I'd like to add that if you haven't already grown out and flowered a clone of the plant you are trying to reverse, you should either do so, or wait until you see that it is a going to be a full on female before spraying, otherwise, if you get hermie pollen sacs, or if it is a male, you'll never know the difference from CS induced female pollen sacs.
Thank you a 1000 times!

I only work with tested plants males and females before I go to breed with them.

Now there popped one other question up in my mind....
how do you messure the ppm of the solution.
do you use a ppm meter.
can it be done right by using x-ammount of water and a certain amount of time running the cs-generator in it without a ppm meter?
I ask that because my ec meter is broken.

Thank you!

Peace
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Thank you a 1000 times!

I only work with tested plants males and females before I go to breed with them.

Now there popped one other question up in my mind....
how do you messure the ppm of the solution.
do you use a ppm meter.
can it be done right by using x-ammount of water and a certain amount of time running the cs-generator in it without a ppm meter?
I ask that because my ppm meter is broken.

Thank you!

Peace
I measure the ppm using a tds meter, but you can also use a laser pointer. You should be able to see the beam clearly, if you shine it through the cs.
 

Gbuddy

Well-Known Member
Hmmmm thanks a lot man!
Hoped for something like a rule of thumb like - for a gallon of water use x amount of time @ x volts/ampere to get 25 - 50 ppm -

But I guess too many parameters involved for such a rule right ?

I will try to build a cs- gen when I find a place to buy this silver elektrodes.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Hmmmm thanks a lot man!
Hoped for something like a rule of thumb like - for a gallon of water use x amount of time @ x volts/ampere to get 25 - 50 ppm -

But I guess too many parameters involved for such a rule right ?

I will try to build a cs- gen when I find a place to buy this silver elektrodes.
Yea, the issue with a forumla like that is that there are a bunch of variables. The purity of the water and electrodes, the amps/volts of the generator, the surface area of the electrodes that's submerged in the water, and the movement/aeration of the water. I wouldn't be surprised if temperature had some influence as well, but I'm not sure about that.

You can get a really cheap TDS meter on amazon, but they don't measure the strength of the Colloidal Silver with complete accuracy. They just provide a good guideline. The good thing, is that you don't need to be very exact in this regard. Anything above 15 ppm (if well made), that you apply 2-3 times daily, should work. If you get into the 20-30ppm range, you might have some more/quicker success, but it's really a matter of getting a certain amount of silver into the plant over a period of time, and maintaining that level while flowers are being made. If you use a weaker CS suspension, you'll just need to spray more often.
 

Gbuddy

Well-Known Member
Yea, the issue with a forumla like that is that there are a bunch of variables. The purity of the water and electrodes, the amps/volts of the generator, the surface area of the electrodes that's submerged in the water, and the movement/aeration of the water. I wouldn't be surprised if temperature had some influence as well, but I'm not sure about that.

You can get a really cheap TDS meter on amazon, but they don't measure the strength of the Colloidal Silver with complete accuracy. They just provide a good guideline. The good thing, is that you don't need to be very exact in this regard. Anything above 15 ppm (if well made), that you apply 2-3 times daily, should work. If you get into the 20-30ppm range, you might have some more/quicker success, but it's really a matter of getting a certain amount of silver into the plant over a period of time, and maintaining that level while flowers are being made. If you use a weaker CS suspension, you'll just need to spray more often.
Thank you a lot you realy helped me a lot!!!
Found something for the electrodes.
but need a tds meter then too.
keep up the helpful work man you are great.

Peace
 

ricky1lung

Well-Known Member
I used this method but all I had available was a cheap sterling silver chain and a 9v battery.
It worked, even without using pure or close to pure silver.
 

Gbuddy

Well-Known Member
I used this method but all I had available was a cheap sterling silver chain and a 9v battery.
It worked, even without using pure or close to pure silver.
Any messurements on the endproduct?

You made female seeds successful with your solution?

Peace
 

ricky1lung

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was able to make seeds. I think my end product was about 12 ppm. I sprayed the hell out of a side branch and kept doing it until I ran out of solution.

Not saying it was good but it worked even with crappy supplies.
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Thank you a lot you realy helped me a lot!!!
Found something for the electrodes.
but need a tds meter then too.
keep up the helpful work man you are great.

Peace
If you start a fem seed project, you should share your results here.

Also...

TDS Meter (Click Picture for amazon product page)


1' of 14 Gauge 99.99% Pure Silver Wire (Click Picture for amazon product page)

You will only need a small amount of silver unless you plan on reversing a large amount of plants. A single foot of wire should last you for a long time.

I used this method but all I had available was a cheap sterling silver chain and a 9v battery.
It worked, even without using pure or close to pure silver.
Yeah I was able to make seeds. I think my end product was about 12 ppm. I sprayed the hell out of a side branch and kept doing it until I ran out of solution.

Not saying it was good but it worked even with crappy supplies.
Good job, and congrats on the seeds. It really is a very cool science project when you see it to completion (reversing -> pollinating -> seeds).

I wonder what your sterling silver necklace is composed of.

What did your final product look like, and did it affect the plant negatively at all? Also, did you self pollinate the same plant, or use the pollen on another female?
 

ricky1lung

Well-Known Member
If you start a fem seed project, you should share your results here.

Also...

TDS Meter (Click Picture for amazon product page)


1' of 14 Gauge 99.99% Pure Silver Wire (Click Picture for amazon product page)

You will only need a small amount of silver unless you plan on reversing a large amount of plants. A single foot of wire should last you for a long time.



Good job, and congrats on the seeds. It really is a very cool science project when you see it to completion (reversing -> pollinating -> seeds).

I wonder what your sterling silver necklace is composed of.

What did your final product look like, and did it affect the plant negatively at all? Also, did you self pollinate the same plant, or use the pollen on another female?
The solution itself was really cloudy and looked sludgy. Was pretty nervous using it but still wanted to try so I only used it on a branch for self pollinating.

I didn't yield many seeds because it was a small run, but it did work. It didn't seem to slow the growth at all, but it was a re veg so it was growing all funky anyways lol.

So I guess in a nut shell, even with crappy supplies, and a Franken re veg, this method works and really worked well.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
That jar is not smooth. It has diamonds or something around it. I'll probably hit a BKR f1 branch (for a test, then cut and toss it). If it works fine, I will start using the homemade CS with the f2s f3s ect. I don't see why it won't work. I also have some a few others in mind.
 
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