660nm 680nm 690nm 700nm diode build

I like this little heating plates to solder LED onto PCB's. You can also get them in 12v and if you like you can also add a 8$ temp controller with thermal probe to set a certain temperatur and ramp up the temps according to the recommendation in the LED datasheet.


AC 220V PTC hot plate desoldering station for lamp beads (6,57$ US)

Description:
- The LED lamp bead desoldering board consists of a high-performance PTC heating plate and a heat-dissipating aluminum sheet
- AC 220V power supply, rapid increase in surface temperature by 250 ° (± 10 °), no thermostat required
- 30 seconds to reach the specified temperature
- Can be used to desolder LED lamps and FPC seats. In addition, solder balls with BGA value can be used
- The surface is hot. Pay attention to burns when using

Specification:
- Material: aluminum
- Size: 75 * 63 * 10mm




12v Temp controller..
The controller uses industrial microcomputer control system, stable performance, simple operation. Using K-type thermocouple temperature probe, with easy installation, high temperature resistance, long life and other advantages. the mode and status of real-time visibility.
Parameters:
Product Name: Digital Thermostat
Input Voltage: DC 12V
Power Dissipation: < 3W
Temperature Control Range: -30~999℃
Measuring Input: K-type thermocouple
Resolution: 1℃
Temperature Measurement Accuracy: ±2℃
Output Type: one way relay output
Board Size: 79 * 54 * 21mm

Randomblame said:

I like this little heating plates to solder LED onto PCB's. You can also get them in 12v and if you like you can also add a 8$ temp controller with thermal probe to set a certain temperatur and ramp up the temps according to the recommendation in the LED datasheet.


AC 220V PTC hot plate desoldering station for lamp beads (6,57$ US)

Description:
- The LED lamp bead desoldering board consists of a high-performance PTC heating plate and a heat-dissipating aluminum sheet
- AC 220V power supply, rapid increase in surface temperature by 250 ° (± 10 °), no thermostat required
- 30 seconds to reach the specified temperature
- Can be used to desolder LED lamps and FPC seats. In addition, solder balls with BGA value can be used
- The surface is hot. Pay attention to burns when using

Specification:
- Material: aluminum
- Size: 75 * 63 * 10mm

View attachment 4338613


12v Temp controller..
The controller uses industrial microcomputer control system, stable performance, simple operation. Using K-type thermocouple temperature probe, with easy installation, high temperature resistance, long life and other advantages. the mode and status of real-time visibility.
Parameters:
Product Name: Digital Thermostat
Input Voltage: DC 12V
Power Dissipation: < 3W
Temperature Control Range: -30~999℃
Measuring Input: K-type thermocouple
Resolution: 1℃
Temperature Measurement Accuracy: ±2℃
Output Type: one way relay output
Board Size: 79 * 54 * 21mm

View attachment 4338619 View attachment 4338620

Click to expand...

Thats awesome. Have you tried it yourself?

trojanvirus said:

I kinda learned the hard way I suppose, but I'm glad I did.
Learned a lot about diodes and about 'what's it really worth'.

The diodes work. The buckboosters work. The driver, the mounts and fans, all work.
Cost a fair bit, and probably not worth the expense, but hey, I have them and can test them out when I get a spec (coming).

BUt what I really learned is that sometimes its ok to use the next best thing. Why not just use 660nm? or even better, why not just use pre-soldered 730nm diodes that are available for 50c a piece? Quality of diodes? give it a rest. At least for the money I have the specialized diodes that can be used for some research.

and I like HLG products but the new red strip with the 6 diodes for $70 bucks.. idk folks. After doing the soldering and drivers and buckboosters, for the same price, I would have 200 diodes (not 6) that are the next best thing.

I'm going to test a bunch a cheap diodes now too. If I can get 200W of diodes (already mounted/driverless/etc) for $15 and if they grow good weed, then that's the way to go.

Click to expand...

I really agree on the next best thing idea and leveraging diode count. Too many here chase those top bin chips in order to run them around max power. But usually you can find a chip which is aprox one bin lower in performance (bout 10%) at half price of the top bin. So what then, it all equals out? No. Cause the top bin chip run at higher temps (around 5% loss in efficiency) and 2 chips allow you for better distribution.
In our grow we run lm561c from china which is soooo 2017. But it allows us to use twice the diodes and press those boards down towards the cannopy so we dont lose light from hanging them 18" over cannopy, more like 8".
30w of old leds /square foot gave us 2g/watt with CO2. The leds cost us about 250$ per tray. Plus maybe 70$ in drivers and alu channels. Im good with that.

Randomblame said:

I like this little heating plates to solder LED onto PCB's. You can also get them in 12v and if you like you can also add a 8$ temp controller with thermal probe to set a certain temperatur and ramp up the temps according to the recommendation in the LED datasheet.


AC 220V PTC hot plate desoldering station for lamp beads (6,57$ US)

Description:
- The LED lamp bead desoldering board consists of a high-performance PTC heating plate and a heat-dissipating aluminum sheet
- AC 220V power supply, rapid increase in surface temperature by 250 ° (± 10 °), no thermostat required
- 30 seconds to reach the specified temperature
- Can be used to desolder LED lamps and FPC seats. In addition, solder balls with BGA value can be used
- The surface is hot. Pay attention to burns when using

Specification:
- Material: aluminum
- Size: 75 * 63 * 10mm

View attachment 4338613


12v Temp controller..
The controller uses industrial microcomputer control system, stable performance, simple operation. Using K-type thermocouple temperature probe, with easy installation, high temperature resistance, long life and other advantages. the mode and status of real-time visibility.
Parameters:
Product Name: Digital Thermostat
Input Voltage: DC 12V
Power Dissipation: < 3W
Temperature Control Range: -30~999℃
Measuring Input: K-type thermocouple
Resolution: 1℃
Temperature Measurement Accuracy: ±2℃
Output Type: one way relay output
Board Size: 79 * 54 * 21mm

View attachment 4338619 View attachment 4338620

Click to expand...

I foresee this being included in my table of tools thanks for the heads up.

I ordered a webcam to convert to a spectrometer; I will update when I get a chance (no rush heh heh).

I like that I can do this now, just freestyle diodes up and around the frame, or just leave them on those heatsinks. But I don't think they are doing much up there atm lol.

I'll do some more testing later on, see if there's even an effect.

Rocket Soul said:

Thats awesome. Have you tried it yourself?

Click to expand...

Yepp, with star PCB's and 3w diodes but with a 12v/80w/250° model.
They are available in a wide range from a few watts up to 2000w (for water heaters) and more.
Currently I create my own heating platens for my DIY rosin press using two 12v/50w/180°C modules plus the controller board above to set up the temps I want. Pretty easy to work with .. and easy to burn your fingers, lol!

Randomblame said:

Yepp, with star PCB's and 3w diodes but with a 12v/80w/250° model.
They are available in a wide range from a few watts up to 2000w (for water heaters) and more.
Currently I create my own heating platens for my DIY rosin press using two 12v/50w/180°C modules plus the controller board above to set up the temps I want. Pretty easy to work with .. and easy to burn your fingers, lol!

Click to expand...

Do you know if they do one big enough to do a strip?

Rocket Soul said:

Do you know if they do one big enough to do a strip?

Click to expand...

You need probably a few smaller modules glued to an longer piece of aluminum or copper to use it for strip pcb's.
One could use a wide enough c-channel and put a few smaller heating modules like the ones below between the "fins". Use thermal glue or better a small piece of aluminum on top of the modules and use screws on the ends of the channel to press heating modules and c-channel " bottom" together for better heat transfer. But you need at least 260° or better 300°C modules + such a controller. It allows you to use the preheating times recommended in the datasheets for best results.



When I've soldered 3w diodes on star pcb's it was for instance always needed to slightly tap on the diodes to squish out excess solder as long as they are hot. This was important for good heat transfer from diodes to PCB. If you have no soldering mask to apply the correct amounts of soldering grease on the solder pads its pretty tricky. I've cut out the soldering pattern out of a piece of thin card board but have probably applied a much too thick layer.
Soldering paste with 230°C solder temp you can find on ebay too. I've used the blue/orange syringe and the stuff is called Mechanic® solder paste XG-Z40 (Sn63/Pb37) but be careful it contains 37% lead. Good ventilation and an open window should be obligatory.