24 hours of darkness????

Brick Top

New Member
It is a dual system I use, with even wattage. I have 2 hps and 2 mh (k's) the lights are set at the 4 equal measures of a roughly square room, meaning same distance apart and from walls, they are staggered, not in pairs. Providing the room with a mix of lighting combined with constant rotation of plants, giving them a life span of getting two spectrums at once. It's my first grow but let's just say I did my homework before I even bought a single piece of equipment. I heard I may decrease yield this way but I have a feeling I'm going to come out pretty well, and my potency will be top notch. Obviously to state something so boldly like that I have to back it up a bit. The strain is of pure genetics, I collected the clones from an old school grower that is more than knowledged and produces such mind blowingly good pot. So good genetics, feed them by his schedule using GH 3 part with diamond nectar, liquid karma, grozyme and kool bloom for flowering. Temps r good as well as everything else. Have you ever done anything like this with mixing lighting? and have you heard any good things about this technique? I would be very intrigued to hear your outlook on this, now that I have seen your outlook on UVB.
When I bought my first HID lighting I purchased two 250-watt lights, one MH and one HPS. I ended up adding more because like some people do, I overestimated the capability 250-watts of HID lighting. Over the time I used them I did go with either two MH for veg or one MH and one HPS and rotate my plants. I tried using one, a MH, for side lighting with the two HPS in flower once but the closet I was using was pretty filled by plants and only those in front of it got much light and I didn't think it was worth the checkers playing with pots/plants to keep moving them for what I seemed to be getting, so I never repeated that one. I even added some CFLs a while back for vegging during one grow so when I spoke poorly of them I would at least have some experience to base it on. I guess I have played with lighting a little bit over the years.

I think a mixed spectrum can be a double edged sword. At times it seems good and yields benefits and then there are some negatives if used from start to finish so it is one of those if it works for you or you just believe in it, then do it, sort of things. If it gives a level of comfort and confidence that won't be found not using it, regardless of it being best or not someone might as well use it or else they won't have that warm fuzzy feeling.

I have come to feel that dealing with any indoor lighting regardless of wattage you are severely limited in light rays compared to the sun and since plants do require mostly light-colors in certain ranges at different phases of growth flooding them with the max of what they need the most when they need it the most seems the most logical way to go.

Arguments can easily be made for other beliefs but I think the ‘what they need the most when they need it the most in the largest amount possible’ belief has the least number of questions that can be raised against it. That means all MH for veg and all HPS for flower is how I normally go, though I may at times play with a week extra MH into early flower now and then.

The reason I was curious about your lighting, and how I figured it was a dual system or unequal wattage, is I have been curious about the dual spectrum bulbs for some time now. I have read a good bit about them, but that is not the same as hearing about them from someone who uses them and of course no where near having real experience with them.

When I first saw them for sale they were offered in 400-watt, 600-watt and 1000-watt. Now some may be different but all I have ever seen worked out like this …. The 1000-watt light had one HPS filament that is a 600-watt light and another filament that is MH and is 400-watts. The 600-watt bulbs I have seen have been equal splits, 300-watt of HPS and 300-watts of MH. I do not recall what the 400-watt bulbs were but I haven’t seen them offered for a while.

There have been bulbs in the 400-watt range that had a slightly increased level of MH/blue spectrum for ages but these had a more even split like the 600-watt and 1000-watt bulbs. I do not know if it was not popular so places stopped selling it, or even offering it for order, or if it was a pure flop or what?

If a flop I figure it was because it was under-powered. The way I see it in each wattage you would end up with less light penetration than using a straight MH or HPS bulb. In a 1000-watt light the two filaments would together make a 1000-watt light but one filament would be a 600-watt and another a 400-watt. Regardless of them being combined into one larger outer bulb it would be no different than running separate MH and HPS bulbs in those same wattages side by side, or end to end I guess.

Two 250-watt lights do not put out the light of a single 400-watt, let alone what a 500-watt one would if one exists. Things just do not add up like that. Logically, a dual spectrum bulb would have at most the light penetration of the highest wattage of the two filaments in the single bulb, in the case of the 600-watt equal amounts, but then in a 1000-watt light there would be less light penetration with the other filament, the MH filament.

At least it seems it should be that way ... and I would like to hear from someone who has used dual spectrum bulbs of that type/wattage for a while.

I sort of hoped you used such bulbs and could let me know how things seem to you. I have had people, even some in sales, try to tell me that even split between two filaments of different spectrum ranges, the light penetration remains the same as a single filament bulb.

I don’t buy it …. but I would like to find out.

I run a simple modest 400-watt system. When I first learned of the bulbs and the 400-watt ones were easy to find I almost purchased a couple thinking it might be good. I did not think about the possible loss of light penetration compared to regular bulbs, which might be why the 400-watt one seems to have died out, if split equal that’s two 200-watt lights and if my penetration belief is correct that is not an amount of penetration anyone would want or accept from their 400-watt light, so maybe I got lucky not trying them.

But I would like to run across someone who has given them a good fair test and could say how in their opinion they compare.

If I am right, if I had a 600-watt light I would actually have one 300-watt MH and one 300-watt HPS in one bulb with the light penetration of two 300-watt lights burning next to each other but not like one 600-watt single filament bulb would provide. That isn’t much more than a 250-watt and not as much as a 400-watt so the more I think about it I don’t know if I would want to use such bulbs unless it was in a 1000-watt or multiple 1000-watt light system.
 

BCBuddy420

Well-Known Member
wow, yeah that was a good outlook on the lighting. I too would like to see what the dual spectrum bulbs can do, there has got to be someone around here that uses them. Maybe a thread is in order to "weed" out someone who does, hmm. I just followed advice for this grow and am not comfortable either way, dual bulb or even balance of hps/mh. Mostly because this is my first grow and I'm just learning. All I can do personally is, in about 2 months, give you an update of harvest size and quality, yet there is nothing to compare to, so it makes it sortof moot right. I may get rid of 1 MH and buy 2 more hps and use just MH for vegging, not that I would know the difference between the two, but just to mimic what most people do, that "tried and tested" type of thing. Thanks again for your amazing posts sir. I do not have the experience yet that it takes to figure out what works, but that will come,the way I understand is it's what works for you, that's the key. Take care, keep on doing what you do :)
 
IVE NEVER HEARD OF MORE THAN 24-72 HRS OF DARKTIME BEFORE HARVEST. iM NOT SURE THERE IS EVEN ANY KIND OF BENEFIT. yET i GIVE THEM MORE LIKE 36-60HRS OF NO LIGHT BEFORE I GO CHOP CHOP.
TO ME ITS MORE IMPORTANT THAT THEY ARE DRY AND PROABOBLY NEEDED TO BE WATERED ABOUT 24 HRS AGO. SO THAT DECIDES MY DARK PERIOD., HOW LONG THEY TAKE TO SUCK UP AND PROCESS THE LAST OF THEYRE 10 DAY FLUSH WITH FINAL PHASE (ADVANCED NUTRIENTS FLUSHING AGENT) THIS TIME ILL FLUSH HALF WITH FINAL PHASE AND THE OTHER WITH CLEAREX, SINCE ITS SO MUCH CHEAPER. AND ILL DRY THEM SEPERATELY AND CURE THEM SEPERATELY AND SEE IF THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN FLUSHING AGENTS. IM EVEN FLUSHING A COUPLE WITH JUST WATER AGAIN, JUST FOR COMPARISON PURPOSES!!
 

KlosetKing

Well-Known Member
found this thread on accident, looking for some info on darkness before flower, but gained some info from it so i am very happy. a few things i wanna run by ya guys:

1. milehighkid5280(Above poset): seriously, turn the caps off. no one takes anything you say seriously at all with them. no joke. i considered you an idiot right away and moved on, didn't even read it.
2. @Bricktop: i have been wondering the same thing on dual spectrum lighting myself. i dont know much about light, but as logic dictates (to me, which again doesn't really mean anything) it seems the light could only possibly be as bright as the brightest of the 2, if only slightly brighter. seems to me one would just kinda outshine the other, at least mostly? what my real question would be though, is spectrum mixing. if its got both of those spectrum's going, how much can the plant truly absorb of all the spectrum's? i mean, if you were thinking cfl (as an example, i realize these don't emit UVB, just kind of thinking spectrum warmth), and mixed say 2 2700k bulbs and 2 6500k bulbs. if those lights were close enough to each other, would the spectrum not just blend to some spectrum in the 4000k? maybe i am missing some facts in there, but would love to hear some thoughts on it.
3. anyone here truly played with the 24-36 hours of dark between the 18/6 (or 24/0 or w/e you use) and 12/12 to help with the supposed extra hormone build up to shock it into flower/sex?

again, thanks for the good read everyone
 
found this thread on accident, looking for some info on darkness before flower, but gained some info from it so i am very happy. a few things i wanna run by ya guys:

1. milehighkid5280(Above poset): seriously, turn the caps off. no one takes anything you say seriously at all with them. no joke. i considered you an idiot right away and moved on, didn't even read it.
2. @Bricktop: i have been wondering the same thing on dual spectrum lighting myself. i dont know much about light, but as logic dictates (to me, which again doesn't really mean anything) it seems the light could only possibly be as bright as the brightest of the 2, if only slightly brighter. seems to me one would just kinda outshine the other, at least mostly? what my real question would be though, is spectrum mixing. if its got both of those spectrum's going, how much can the plant truly absorb of all the spectrum's? i mean, if you were thinking cfl (as an example, i realize these don't emit UVB, just kind of thinking spectrum warmth), and mixed say 2 2700k bulbs and 2 6500k bulbs. if those lights were close enough to each other, would the spectrum not just blend to some spectrum in the 4000k? maybe i am missing some facts in there, but would love to hear some thoughts on it.
3. anyone here truly played with the 24-36 hours of dark between the 18/6 (or 24/0 or w/e you use) and 12/12 to help with the supposed extra hormone build up to shock it into flower/sex?

again, thanks for the good read everyone
Idk if the kelvins will combine if you use different spectrum bulbs, but I don't think so. What I do know for sure is that 4000K is useless. You want 6500 for veg and 2700 for flower, no variations. I have heard though that as long as u use twice as many of the correct cfls than u are using of the incorrect, then thats okay. I myself don't vary, I run by the rules even tho the veg lights r kind of pricey.
 

KlosetKing

Well-Known Member
ya bud i understand the difference between the uses of the different kelvins, that wasn't my question.....

again, my question was straightforward, albeit not very simple so i will reword it. do they blend and change kelvin rating by the time it hits the plant? im still searching but cant seem to come up with much that isn't just hearsay.
 
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