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See you took my idea!! Ha ha, just kidding. I've been running mine full-go and will never go back to airstones or loud, hot air pumps. It amazes me how well the roots look all the way up to harvest. Healthiest yet...now if only I didn't burn the shit out of my plants by switching nutrients...

Is there anything organic in your nutrient line? If so, that could be the problem. Organics and DWC don't play well together. Also with the ph up and down, some react to different nutrients. I used a cheapo ph down and had problems. Switched to Gen Hydro and it went away. Lightproofing is...

This is wrong. H2o2 does break down to h2o and o2 gas. The free oxygen molecule is bonded with the water molecule in a single bond structure and oxidizes inorganic and organic substances and degrades to just simple water and gas (o2), degradation is dependant on ph and other variables.

I grow with HP aero and hit 2 lbs with 2 plants. Use 110 psi pump and 50 micron misters. No solenoids or expensive equipment. Last harvest was 33 oz and no co2. 3 1/2 week veg, scrog training, 1000 watt cool tube, and Dutch Master line nutes.

I've foliar fed with ginormous and snowstorm for the first week and a half in flower. Saw some nice results. Good products if you use them right.

If you can, get RO water for hydro. Tap has too much crap in it. Grocery stores sometimes have RO units that you can bring in a jug and fill it for cheap. With dwc, get a bigger air pump to increase disolved oxygen content in the water. Makes all the difference. I would move your ballast...

From the beginning, it seemed like you had ph issues and too high of ppms during that stage of flower. With gen hydro, 1500 ppms should be at the peak of flowering....say week 5-6. Just make sure ph stays constant. Some ph down reacts differently to certain nutes. Try using gen hydro ph up...

My system is recirculating, with fresh change outs every 7-9 days. With an inline filter though, it keeps everything nice and clean. I thought about doing drain to waste, but the less waste you have, the shorter the feedings. Shorter feedings equals more root growth equals less top growth...

My initial set-up was done with all external pumps...but space constrictions forced me to go submersible. And...I may be wrong..but submersible have a better flow rate...thought I read it somewhere and I could be wrong. Also, with external, its also more configuration for my inline filter and...

Well I do have my chiller in an external room so it should keep up with any excess heat from a pump...I'm not concerned about the extra electricity to run the chiller, as long as the water is plenty aerated. Also, with my set-up, I don't have much room to play with inside the chamber and since...

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=KM2851&child=KM2851&utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=KM2851&gclid=CNGdjoOE2bkCFdGd4Aod8EAAk Found!!!

Yeah I'm looking for something that can handle about 700-900 gph, I want this water really movin! Just like one of those aerators in lobster tanks!

I'm still looking for one at a good price. These are used as fertilizer injectors and ozone injectors along with simple air injection. The ones I see are $150 plus...

Its an attatchment to the pump that uses the suction from inlet to draw air through a smaller opening. It increases the dissolved oxygen content of the reservoir...much greater than air stones. The plus is no more air pumps, or air stones that collect pathogens and root exudates.

Well I'm upgrading right now....gonna throw in a mazzei venturi after the inline filter and need to re-insulate the chamber. Should be ready soon.

It seems the dilemma is coverage vs. cost. It's amazing that someone hasn't tried to market a simple yet effective cost efficient design...:-)

I guess since this thread is "air assisted" , I should mention I have a seperate inline fan of fresh filtered air going into the root zone which draws in outside air from a seperate room. (For when I start co2.) Don't want to pump 1500 ppms of co2 into root zone!

I run four 50 micron misters per pod. The mist is never directly sprayed on plant roots, unless I'm cloning in the system. I can adjust them up, down, and at any angle.

I make my root zone totally accessible, that way I can get to them easily if problems occur, I can monitor the health of them, check the humidity and temp in the pods, even small amounts of root pruning. Also allows me to easily change and clean misting heads and the pods themselves.

And I think that is the goal...not pom poms. One tip turns to 50. Hundreds turn to thousands. Sounds like a more efficient way of delivering nutes and water. But the trick is not to soak them til the point of spaghetti...its a delicate balance. Thats why the misting intervals need adjusted...