Pineapple Express G13 Lab's Seed to Harvest

Raylan

Well-Known Member
I've gotten the humidity up to 50% with the temperature at 80. I'm running my HPS at 50% power at a distance of 2 and 1/2 feet from the plants, is this close enough/enough light? I don't want too much stretch in them as I plan to scrog and I'm limited in height. I've also adjusted the PH down to 6.0. She's looking a little better with each day. The cotyledons are the ones that are drooping, but the true leaves are growing and look fine as of now. Sorry for hijacking your thread Scotty, but you were the reason I attempted a hydro grow so I took a shot here for help.
Grow journal going here if anyone wants to follow:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/403330-g13-pineapple-express-ufo-skunk.html
 

SCOTTYBALLS

Well-Known Member
I've gotten the humidity up to 50% with the temperature at 80. I'm running my HPS at 50% power at a distance of 2 and 1/2 feet from the plants, is this close enough/enough light? I don't want too much stretch in them as I plan to scrog and I'm limited in height. I've also adjusted the PH down to 6.0. She's looking a little better with each day. The cotyledons are the ones that are drooping, but the true leaves are growing and look fine as of now. Sorry for hijacking your thread Scotty, but you were the reason I attempted a hydro grow so I took a shot here for help.
Grow journal going here if anyone wants to follow:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/403330-g13-pineapple-express-ufo-skunk.html
Nothing is wrong with humidity, MJ seedlings can grow just fine in low humidity.. curling preleaves are normal.. PH is fine.. your tap water is good @50ppm you have nothing to worry about yet..
 

Raylan

Well-Known Member
Alright man, thanks, sounds very encouraging.
And it's fine to start in on the nutes @ 10 days? And when I do so my water should be @ 300ppm? If I plan on using ONLY Flora Nova bloom, how often should I change the water?
As of right now I'm changing it once every 2 days. The PH usually starts to run up a little after the first day, but I believe some of that is the residual shit from the hydroton. I rinsed the crap out of it but the past two times I changed the water I could tell it was contaminating it a little bit. Also, when its time to start the scrog screen do you mind if I ask for a few pointers?
Thanks again to everyone for all the advice/help.
 

frogster

Active Member
Raylen, My clones grew fine at 25-30% humidity,don't "sweat" it.. I was worried also... but if you can lower your temps down a bit to get to that 50% mark, why not.... I eventually bought a humidifier and its all good... Specific strains may not like the lower levels though.... Looking good, you will be a proud parent of some fine bushy plants soon... So fun to watch them grow... heres a link to a little info about transpiration and respiration, enjoy : https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/388616-little-plant-primer-newbs.html
 

Raylan

Well-Known Member
I can keep the humidity at 40% with the temperature at 89 and the light is at 100% power. This is with nothing more than an oscillating fan blowing around the tent. I have a 4" duct running into the bottom that is fed by a 250cfm fan that pulls cooler air from the crawl space below my stairs. When I run that fan the temperature will drop to around 80 but then I have problems with humidity as the zipper for my grow tent broke off after a few days of using it and I'm guessing all the airflow leaving the front of the tent is taking the humidity with it? I plan on getting a humidifier when I get paid next week, but until then I'm trying to keep all the environmental aspects that I can control ideal.
 

Raylan

Well-Known Member
And thanks for the link, very useful information. I noticed that article suggests that a 24 hour veg cycle is less beneficial, however I've read a few articles by established botanists/horticulturists and they claimed that it was better to do a 24 hour veg as most of the growth during the dark period was stretch, and the end result of a 24 hour light cycle for veg was a 33% increase in growth. Anyone here use 24 hour veg?
 

two2brains

Well-Known Member
Shit, that sucks man. How loud was the POP! what kind of ballast do you need for these dual arc bulbs I never even knew they made them.

It it didnt really pop at least that i heard anyways... I just came back a few hours later and it was off. It did turn 80% of glass white though so something melted in there lol

The hydro store is awesome though as the lights under warranty still and they are going to give me a store credit for the price of the light since i already have hps and mh lights...

Another question for scotty or somebody else... Did you start 12/12 as soon the plant hits the screen? My G13 blueberry gum is starting to grow rapidly and should be 12" soon... My screen will be approx 34"W x 18"D
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
I see a lot of the same questions being asked over and over, so I'm going to attempt to address one or two of them.

WEAVING: It is rare that you will "weave" your plants into the screen. After you have some experience working a scrog, you may use that technique to hold a straggler in place, or help a weaker stem support a bigger bud. To weave means to incorporate into the screen. That is done by running a stem under and over the netting. For the most part, you do not want to do this. Should you need to move that branch later, good luck. The technique utilizes a method that is VERY easy to understand, however it does indeed take a little practice to make the most of your scrog.

The proper technique involves training the growth tips. When a top comes up through the screen, allow it to grow a couple of inches, then pull it back down under the screen and stretch it away from the plant's base to the next spot on the screen. I usually try to stretch my tops out by 2 or 3 squares per scrog session. If the top won't reach, I leave it alone until the following day, when it is a bit longer and can reach to the next spot.

By doing this, we are forcing the plant growth to go horizontal. EVERY node below the screen will receive auxin, a hormone that will cause branching. Every one of those nodes below will start branching out and then up, striving for light. What I do is top my plants before they even go into the tent. My goal is 4 strong tops. I generally leave 3-4 nodes of the plant when i top, so each one of those lower nodes will develop into a thick branch, able to support a smaller network of branches that will grow from it.

I like to work my tops out in the pattern of an "X" The 4 main tops get stretched out into the "X" pattern, and any branches off of the main branches, will be trained to fill in the middles. This is the easiest pattern to follow. I've seen people use a box pattern and a circle. The choice is yours.

When to Flower?: Deciding when to flower is a personal choice. No one can tell you that you need to begin flowering on a set calendar. However, we all strive for that 'perfect' window to flip our lights. When scrogging, we have a concern or two as to when that time comes. I've seen several misconceptions on this topic. Number one, do not wait until your screen is full before flipping the lights to the flower cycle. Why?, you ask, because, once you start flowering, the plant is going to go into stretch mode. The top few nodes are really going to stretch apart and prepare themselves of handling the weight of a cola.

The new growth that accompanies the stretch will have nowhere to go if you have already filled out the screen. As I said, I work my mains into an "X" pattern. The secondary branches that come from those branches are encouraged to stretch to the ends of the screen and fill in the empty portions on the edges. The branches that come later in the plant's life will be used to fill the middles, that are closer to the main branches.

The trick to timing the light cycle is to know your strain. In order to find the sweet spot, you have to know how much more growth the plants are capable of. Once you have filled the corners of your screen and have about 80% of the middles filled in, flip your lights. At this point, you'll continue to work the scrog and train the plants for about ten more days, until the screen is nearly full, at which point you can take a break from working the top, and get below the screen and start removing any growth that will not be receiving light. A well done scrog will not be getting any light below the canopy.

PRUNING: If you are one of the ones that refuse to remove a leave or cut off a perfectly good branch, scrogging may not be for you. In order to get a head start on branching, many growers that utilize a scrog will top their plants. They may also FIM or LST them. Controlling the growth and pace of the plant is essential when growing in a scrog. Growers will have to prune tops to encourage branching, and the amount of fan leaves that are removed is nothing short of a harvest in itself.

I have spent over an hour at a time, cleaning up under the canopy and while doing so, routinely fill 1-2 plastic Wal*mart bags with leaves. I try to tuck huge fan leaves that are shading other tops at the screen, back into the netting. If they refuse to cooperate and insist on blocking a site, I pluck the leaf. I have no aversions to taking off fan leaves. If you are scrog growing, you have to be able to remove leaves and feel good about it. You are not going to decrease your harvest. If anything, growing on a scrog increases it by four fold.

I didn't intend to write a novel, just wanted to cover a few topics that I see being discussed the most.
 

TweedleD

Active Member
Very good post Serapis! +Rep!
Quite kool that i naturally did all those things because i thought it was logical! :D

Hopefully you guys can help me out!
Ive got a 600w grow on the go, and im having troubles with my 2 waterfarms.
Both plants are showing some kind of leaf tip burn...
Can you guys pop over and have a little look, see what you think it could be?
Peace!

Link below! ;)
 

gravity360

Active Member
This may be a bit late, but I handle this strain myself and the odor from it was a extremely strong smell of what I can only describe as warm pineapple with a bit of skunk behind it. This is a keeper.

Oh and also that I will be adding my DP Strawberry cough up next. I've already got them going, their 2 weeks into veg standing about 4 inches. I need to hurry and get my screen together so I can use it on one. I'm hoping for 2 fems so I can keep a mother. I've heard nothing but good medical reviews about this strain, so we shall see how it goes. Oh and btw.. it's rather odd but are SC's suppose to be an indica dominate strain or did I just happen to get that pheno?
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Welcome to da family!:

Today is a very exciting day for me. Just as I am about to give up on both seeds, I notice a slight bump on the surface of the Pineapple Express pellet. I gently moved the peat aside and waiting there for my view, was a baby cotyledon leaf. A tear nearly escaped my arid ducts, as I danced around with glee. This had to have been the longest germination session ever; At least it felt like it. I have included a picture of this momentous occasion and I hope that all of you will help me celebrate, with a lift of your piece and a light from your Bic.

Here is to lady Pineapple, may she always express my desires...
 

gravity360

Active Member
A trick I used to ensure good germination rates is to soak the seeds in a cup of distilled ph balanced water and keep it at room temperature for 24 to 36 hours. You should see a slight crack in the seed and some white, the second you can clearly make that out, then drop them into your pellets. Promise, you'll have more luck with them. You could also drop them into moist paper towels which is the method that i use, after 1 inch then into the dirt they go.

EDIT: Almost forgot, keep it in the dark! Roots don't care for light as everyone already knows.
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Always appreciate tips. In fact, I was thinking of a variation of the shot glass and distilled water method. I'm going to use one of the small zipper bags that a UFO Freebie comes in, add some water, drop in a seed and close it up. Once it cracks, a pipette dropper can be used to suck the seed and water out all at once, and the seed can then be inserted into whatever medium you are going to use. I had to cut the tip off the end of one of my pipettes, but it works and it is gentle to the root.

A trick I used to ensure good germination rates is to soak the seeds in a cup of distilled ph balanced water and keep it at room temperature for 24 to 36 hours. You should see a slight crack in the seed and some white, the second you can clearly make that out, then drop them into your pellets. Promise, you'll have more luck with them. You could also drop them into moist paper towels which is the method that i use, after 1 inch then into the dirt they go.

EDIT: Almost forgot, keep it in the dark! Roots don't care for light as everyone already knows.
 

gravity360

Active Member
Well don't suck the seed out of the shell, you want to leave it in there. That hard coating protects it while the root tip forms and becomes a more solid mass. BUT BEWARE if you leave them soaking to long they will rot and be worthless. Now if the seed doesn't sink after the first 5 hours, I recommend dipping the seed down into the water with your fingers. Sometimes small bubbles stick to the surface of the seed and will keep it floating. Another trick could be to add a extremely mild soap. This will cause the water to actually be "wetter" and you can avoid the problem with the bubbles, but like i said it has to be a mild soap (preferably organic and non scented.)
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
LOL... Sorry if I wasn't clear. I wasn't saying you suck the embryo out of the seed husk. I was saying remove the entire seed and the water with a dropper. I've done it before and it works great. I use a plastic pipette dropper that has had to small tip removed. It makes handling the cracked seed safe and easy.

Well don't suck the seed out of the shell, you want to leave it in there. That hard coating protects it while the root tip forms and becomes a more solid mass. BUT BEWARE if you leave them soaking to long they will rot and be worthless. Now if the seed doesn't sink after the first 5 hours, I recommend dipping the seed down into the water with your fingers. Sometimes small bubbles stick to the surface of the seed and will keep it floating. Another trick could be to add a extremely mild soap. This will cause the water to actually be "wetter" and you can avoid the problem with the bubbles, but like i said it has to be a mild soap (preferably organic and non scented.)
 
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