IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
bad relay.... try a Form C RIB relay
A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions
- Thread starter IAm5toned
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IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
if your already having problems with electric hair dryers... adding <4kw to your electrical system is a very very risky venture. your going to need a pro, and its going to cost a bit of $.
you could use the 30 amp outlet to run a grow op, however you will have to make a choice- do you want laundry, or a grow op, because you cant have both without a good amount of work. and also, 30 amps is only going to give you roughly 2880w... your going to need more wattage to run all that stuff. alot more.
the cheapest and safest option (i say cheapest, but it might not be, due to the way your house is built and wired) would be to run a new dedicated circuit out of your electrical panel to supply power for the grow op. the a/c, dehumid, and chiller will probably use more power than the (2) 1kw lights, to give you an idea of how much power your going to need. i would go with a 60 amp subpanel myself... with a circuit for each light, a circuit for the a/c, and another circuit for the pumps, chiller, and dehumid. your running alot of equipment there, be warned, and its not going to be cheap to make it work right.
Lost my page since the update to RIU...I really apprecaite you talking time to help/answer my questions. I have saved your calcuation to my PC and I will add it up. If i get stuck, i will post up here (if you dont mind)
Cheers again, happing smoking man
staychiefn
Member
why is my light hood making a noise
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
its complicated man... theres alot more to it than simply adding new wiring... why i said your going to need a professional.
you need to know what your max power factor on your service drop befor eyou can even think about adding that kind of addition to a residential service.
its not something that can be done over the internet either, someone has to take a look at your main panel, in person.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
maybe its hungry?
maybe theres vibrations from a nearby fan vibrating the reflector or the lamp filament.
its hard to answer a question like that.
why is my dog barking?
buggin69
Active Member
sounds like you just need a good excuse is all...
i didn't read everything but it sounds like it's going to be a large room... tell him you're setting up a shop with an oven for powdercoating, small welder, large exhaust fan, large air compressor, and separate A/C...
all that stuff needs a lot of power and its a legit reason to need a 60 amp subpanel
Cali chronic
Well-Known Member
hey stoned sparky LOL question about wiring up my own HPS light was on here in another thread a guy posted a hertz ballast link and I went thru the site to match up components and the socket is wired like a fixture--Correct? and the Ballast has a capacator and some other thing that is wired in line with each other---right? It is pretty self explanatory once I get the parts mailed to me. you think? I went to the homedeep and no luck for eyeballing the config. Gotta Schematic or a run down on a map? For making a 400 watt ballast to run a 400 watt hps bulb I saw one for 160 with the bulb I was wondering if I could put one together for about 70 bucks?
Seems like most of the stuff breaks or burns out and needs fixing anyways so I might as wll fix it from the start. I mean if it is as simple as wiring a ceiling fan or a switch leg or a 3 way. I can prob do it. Hell I rebuilt my HD 5 speed tranny and it shifts like 'clik'
Seems like most of the stuff breaks or burns out and needs fixing anyways so I might as wll fix it from the start. I mean if it is as simple as wiring a ceiling fan or a switch leg or a 3 way. I can prob do it. Hell I rebuilt my HD 5 speed tranny and it shifts like 'clik'
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
im glad you see through the bullshit alot of manufacturers pass off as a viable product. your right, alot of HID light fixtures are fucking junk, right out of the box. from ballast enclosures that trap heat, to sub standard insulation of the transformer coils, to just plain shitty craftsmanship!
for this reason I , personally, only use and recommend Advance Ballasts and components. they are not cheap, and for good reason. they work well and last for at least a decade!
that being said, here's some info for you-
http://site.prolighting.com/hidtroubleshoot/troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/4-01%20to%204-15_WEB.pdf (this one is for electronic ballasts. page 4-6 is for schematics)
http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/5-01 to 5-57_WEB.pdf (this one is THE HOLY GRAIL for HID lighting systems... i like to call it a restoration kit for anything and everything HID. its very technical, and goes in great depth about every component of every type of HID system on the market
)http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/RT-8100-R02_1209_HIDPcktGde.pdf (this one is probably the best all-around guide to HID lamps. this is what is given out to electricians in the field when they have problems.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
and if you need more infor about any other type of lighting, it can be found here:
http://www.advance.philips.com/literature.aspx?id=38
this site is little known, but its straight from the source...
http://www.advance.philips.com/literature.aspx?id=38
this site is little known, but its straight from the source...
Silky Shagsalot
Well-Known Member
hopefully this hasn't been asked. your thread is just too big to read everything. when wanting to control the speed of an in-line fan, what's the best way to go? is using a rheostat o.k. or should you use something solid state? or does it matter? (thanks)
