Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

merahoon

Well-Known Member
What food are you using and are you sure you plants actually getting what they need? You can't go by a label unless it reveals contents, and I don't mean crap like "vitamins and enzymes". I mean stuff that is really pertinent to plant development - macros and micros.

Bueno bye,
Ben
I don't think their getting enough food. I have really hard water and I don't have a ppm meter so I don't know where I stand when adding nutes. Usually I'll go 3/4 strength every time I up the nutes just cause I don't want too many TDS in the water. Now I have a clear Potassium and Manganese deficiency. As I stated earlier, I just wasn't sure if my pH was throwing it off, and right now I don't have the funds to get a good meter. I'll definitely get one in the future though.

Anyhow, for bloom I'm using Dutch Master Gold A & B. A reads 4-0-4, and B reads 0-3-5. Both these contain micro nutrient as well. Those are my main nutes and then I also add Big Bud (powder) 0-15-40 and CarboLoad. For veg I used Sensi Grow A & B. A read 3.7-0-0 and B read 2.5-2.2-5.7.

After seeing how cheap you said Peters was, thats the route I'm going. I'm sick of spending mucho bucks for stuff thats not any better than something as inexpensive as Peter's.

Thanks UB for your willingness to help.
 

MikeyPeenz

Well-Known Member
The ratio is fine, now I need the amount you're using and frequency of application. You have to balance your fertilizers with plant requirements and based on your low lighting situation, I would think they would need very little salts (food).


Well so far i have used about 1/2 teaspoon of nuts to 1L of water, and have nuted once. i am thinking about nuting every 3-4days.

I was reading your topping thread UB and was wondering when i can top my plant, it is about 5-5.5 inches tall right now, i am worried about topping too early, today is day 21, its been in veg for about 6-7 days.
 

Snak

Active Member
Ben-

Maybe this isn't the appropriate thread, but I would really love to see you elaborate on the concept of flushing your plants near the end of the flowering cycle and why you believe that its unnecessary. It is another wide-spread forum paradigm that you must perform the flush, but there is a growing underground movement of well-respected growers who do no such thing.

Great thread, once again
 

pitch

Active Member
UB,

Here's a plant that I can't figure out. I've included photos of the mother (4.0) and the clone (4.1) They are robust and a good color, but the leaves twist along it's length and the edges curl up. This came from a hybrid indica dominant batch of seeds that a long time grower developed. All the other seeds developed normally and look fine. It received the same nute package as the others but consistently puts out the weird leaf. Sorry for the photo of 4.0 under HPS, but it shows the leaf distortion pretty well. I added a photo taken under incandescent so you can see better.

I'm planted in Ednas Best potting soil and fertilize with each watering a mixture of Fox Farm's Grow Big (6-4-4, 1/2 strength), Maxi crop (1/2 strength) and Super thrive (1/2 strength).

Any ideas?
 

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blueybong

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben ~ when a plant grows above the light by 6"+, will the top still fully develop or does it need direct light?

If it needs direct light and you're unable to bend or adjust, is it better to trim off that which is above the light?

Or is it better off left alone?

Thanks!


 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
UB, im sure its been asked before, but whats your soil mixture look like? I read through the thread again, but didn't see it. Hope I didn't miss it :) Thanks for this thread.
 

DaveTheNewbie

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben ~ when a plant grows above the light by 6"+, will the top still fully develop or does it need direct light?

If it needs direct light and you're unable to bend or adjust, is it better to trim off that which is above the light?

Thanks!

good question : do the buds need direct light, or will the leaves below still feed them? This is very relevant with my vert grow, where the buds that are well above the light still seem to be doing as well as the ones that are near the light. putting a second 600w above the first just seems impractical right now.
 

DaveTheNewbie

Well-Known Member
If I had to guess, I bet most of the pH values folks divulge are wrong because of a cheap meter, lack of calibration, and/or misuse.
every time ive had pH issues this has been the cause. crap meter giving crap reading and me blindly throwing in gallons of pH down (or up).

i stopped using one a while ago too, threw it in the bin when it cost me a crop.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I don't think their getting enough food. I have really hard water and I don't have a ppm meter so I don't know where I stand when adding nutes. Usually I'll go 3/4 strength every time I up the nutes just cause I don't want too many TDS in the water. Now I have a clear Potassium and Manganese deficiency.
How could you have a K deficiency when your plants are seeing alot of K relative to the other macros?

I guarantee you Peters is a higher quality product than what you've been using, for a fraction of the cost.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Well so far i have used about 1/2 teaspoon of nuts to 1L of water, and have nuted once. i am thinking about nuting every 3-4days.
In a typical soil using a typical fertilizer (30-10-10), that would almost fry my plants.

I was reading your topping thread UB and was wondering when i can top my plant, it is about 5-5.5 inches tall right now, i am worried about topping too early, today is day 21, its been in veg for about 6-7 days.
Man, I've discussed that issue in the thread until there is no tomorrow. :wall: Top it when it hits 4 - 6 nodes. Your object is to have a vigorous seedling with a good root system at the time of topping.

Ben-

Maybe this isn't the appropriate thread, but I would really love to see you elaborate on the concept of flushing your plants near the end of the flowering cycle and why you believe that its unnecessary. It is another wide-spread forum paradigm that you must perform the flush, but there is a growing underground movement of well-respected growers who do no such thing.

Great thread, once again
I don't do movements nor believe in them. I only practice common sense and for anyone to believe you're doing the plant any good by giving it pure water 2-3 weeks prior and up to harvest is nuts, and/or, they've never smoked homegrown, or Mexican, or Colombian field grown pot which isn't "flushed". As I've said before, I think "flushing" was founded by Dutch growers to atone for their sins of over-fertilizing throughout the life the plant. And of course you'll have the "what about taste?" mantra. If you want taste, smoke a Swisher Sweet. :D

Everyone wants to push their plants and make this growing thing so damn complicated. A plant isn't like a radiator, nothing is flushed out. Use judicious foods until harvest to maintain the health of the leaves, don't worry about bud production, forget the bud.

UB,

Sorry for the photo of 4.0 under HPS, but it shows the leaf distortion pretty well. I added a photo taken under incandescent so you can see better.

I'm planted in Ednas Best potting soil and fertilize with each watering a mixture of Fox Farm's Grow Big (6-4-4, 1/2 strength), Maxi crop (1/2 strength) and Super thrive (1/2 strength).

Any ideas?
Yeah, I've seen it before but it eventually worked itself out. Don't use Superthrive, it can work against you. Do a Google search.

Uncle Ben ~ when a plant grows above the light by 6"+, will the top still fully develop or does it need direct light?

If it needs direct light and you're unable to bend or adjust, is it better to trim off that which is above the light?

Or is it better off left alone?

Thanks!

This is the outcome of that C99XDalat I've shown that went right over the top and kept on going, I didn't trim anything after it outgrew the lights, plus it was at the perimeter of the garden receiving the least amount of light of any of my plants. Blows the myth that "more light=more bud." :) The colas were so heavy I had to tie them up with chains. Eventually it fell over under its own weight and I was able to raise the light above it. Didn't seem to bother this lady! Why? Because it had plenty of food production from the abundant leaves. ;)

Side view:



Top view:



UB, im sure its been asked before, but whats your soil mixture look like? I read through the thread again, but didn't see it. Hope I didn't miss it :) Thanks for this thread.
Here ya go. Not set in stone though.
I use alot of brown sphagnum peat moss, a large bag of Schultz potting mix, and a bag of cheap potting soil (screened to get rid of the chunky stuff) to make up enough for 30 to 40 gallons of a final mix, which I mix on a cement floor using a shovel and store in large garbage cans. To this base which provides humates, an acidic hit, trace elements, etc. and a little silt to tighten up the mix and retain moisture, I add:

6 or so cups blood meal, 3 or so cups bonemeal, 4 cups dolomite lime, 1 large bag each of vermiculite and perlite (available at Casa dePOT) and alfalfa meal which contains a hormone called triacontanol (purported to increase vegetable production up to 60%). I buy alfalfa feed pellets from a farm and ranch supply store, put about 4 cups of the pellets in a bucket with a gallon of water and give it a good squirt of Ivory dish soap to cut the surface tension, let it stand for 30 minutes, and then dump the slurry into the mix on the floor. I sometimes add composted horse manure, maybe about 3 or 4 gallons of it. The final, slightly moist soil mix is turned well with a shovel and stored for a couple of weeks in garbage cans to "mellow".
Make it a great day,
UB
 

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merahoon

Well-Known Member
How could you have a K deficiency when your plants are seeing alot of K relative to the other macros?

I guarantee you Peters is a higher quality product than what you've been using, for a fraction of the cost.
My only guess would be me not giving them enough nutes. Next round, I'm definitely going with peters.
 

MikeyPeenz

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help Ben, you are like the GodFather Don of gardening, I really appreciate the time you take to help other growers like me out, sorry if i get a tad annoying! this is my first grow and it has definitely been a learning curve. Much respect! may the good budda lord bless you!
 

The Warlord

Well-Known Member
One question. Where did you OR where can I get Dalat seeds? Been wanting them forever. I also know of at least one other person on here who has been looking for Dalat for a long time. Feel free to pm me. Any help is apreciated. :)
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Happy to share and help out fellers.

I don't know where you can get Dalat. Like me, I doubt if anyone's willing to part with any. Not that it is so wonderful. It's actually a PITA to grow, tends to hermie, etc.
 

plaguedog

Active Member
Yeah thanks Ben I would like to say you have helped me out more then anyone on most forums to date. I'm sort of a stickler when it comes to using organics in my mixes but it's really just because I find it easier to manage a small crop personally than any other way i have tried growing. Once you get a nice mix down I mainly just supplement with compost tea and some kelp and guano. And I have never flushed once growing this way, and also never had a problem with yellowing leaves at the end of the grow. Again thanks for the helpful advice and + rep to you.
 

plaguedog

Active Member
Well shoot I forgot to post my question.

I have read and re-read you're topping thread and I know this seems like a basic question, but I'm about 3 weeks in from seed with around 6 nodes at around 4 inches tall in 2.5 quart pots ( 1 gallon nursery I think) I was wondering what is a good schedule to up pot these plants with you're topping method on four cola's? The plants are much wider then the 6 inch pots and seem to be growing well but I plan on moving them to 3 gallon pots and topping at the same time. Will the transplant and topping at the same time cause too much stress?

The reason why I ask is because I have never really topped before so it is a new procedure for me. I plan on vegging them until they are around 12 inches tall or sexual maturity.

Thanks in advance. :)
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I have read and re-read you're topping thread and I know this seems like a basic question, but I'm about 3 weeks in from seed with around 6 nodes at around 4 inches tall in 2.5 quart pots ( 1 gallon nursery I think) I was wondering what is a good schedule to up pot these plants with you're topping method on four cola's? The plants are much wider then the 6 inch pots and seem to be growing well but I plan on moving them to 3 gallon pots and topping at the same time. Will the transplant and topping at the same time cause too much stress?

The reason why I ask is because I have never really topped before so it is a new procedure for me. I plan on vegging them until they are around 12 inches tall or sexual maturity.

Thanks in advance. :)
Dave's got your backside covered. ;) Neither action will cause stress, unless you butcher the rootball when upcanning. Untopped, I'd wait until they are approaching 12" before moving them up. A 4.5" tall plant is not rootbound and doesn't not need to be upcanned now. Top, wait for some good output and then upcan in a week or so.

Good luck,
UB
 
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