Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

pitch

Active Member
Oh yeah, they're 24 inches away from a 400w HPS, and still have the taco-ing.
Personally, I'd hit it with 20-20-20 Jacks classic at 3/4 strength at every watering and turn it around. I had one that did the same thing and that cured it.

I doubt that 24" from a 400w is burning the plants. I keep my 600w 18" and they are pumping. The plants in the photo are 14" tall.
 

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fanya

Well-Known Member
Sup UB, figured I'd figured I'd stop in and say hi and ask a couple questions!

So first off.

Is it bad if my girls are leaning against their plastic walls? I have 4 foot wooden dowels that are kind of helping stand them up but just arn't tall enough to do a complete job. My girls are about 7 feet tall now. So is it bad if they are leaning against the plastic?

If it is the only way I could fix it is to tie them to the reflector, lol.

Also here is a bud shot of one of my girls at 47 days, you have any kind of guess when how much time they have left (I know its pretty much impossible to tell but I figured I'd ask anyway). I have to take them down in 10 days if I want to go home for christmas or 17 days no mater what due to moving at the end of Jan.

Thanks for all the help along the way UB, you the man, I can't wait to take pictures of the full plants once they are done because I can't get any pictures other than close up shots because my 4x4x8 tent is filled from side to side and top to bottom with green, lol.

*edited to add picture, doh*
 

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grow space

Well-Known Member
Stressing definitely won't increase your yields. I would say just do what you plan on doing by keeping your lights off and then turn them on for 1 hour after the 48 hours of darkness. THC is at its highest potency in the morning. If your growing white widow, it should be pushing out enough crystals already. Don't harm your plant. :mrgreen:
Thanks bro..So i will turn my light off for 48H on the last week, and then one hour on adn chop my way out of that jungle...
:peace:
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
More pic whoring.

Hopefully done in 10 days, I know that's wishful thinking.
Theres no way your sativas are gonna be done in 57 days. Some can take up to 16 weeks..Id try to give them at least 9-10 weeks if at all possible.

You said they have to come down in 17 days since you're moving at the end of Jan. Did you mean December?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro..So i will turn my light off for 48H on the last week, and then one hour on adn chop my way out of that jungle...
:peace:
I remove the plants ready for harvest to another dark area just before Lights Out, get the chop table ready, pull a plant in the morn and do the dirty deed. Mel Franks has a graph showing THC levels throughout a 24 period and yes THC is highest during its night cycle. Whether or not you can detect the change by smoking......I doubt it.

Your best approach is to concentrate on growing a healthy plant that retains its leaves until harvest.

UB
 

Guest999

Active Member
Like I said in the Roseman thread:

1. When the pistil development comes to a crawl and most are brown,

2. Cloudy trichomes,

3. Calxyes are plump looking like they contain a seed.

I don't use any one flag.
Just wondering cuz i was reading a thread and the guy was saying he waits until the pistils withdraw into the bud. He says he does not harvest based on trich color. I could see how this would work with indica but with sativa...i'd be afraid to try seeing as how it could ruin the high.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Just wondering cuz i was reading a thread and the guy was saying he waits until the pistils withdraw into the bud. He says he does not harvest based on trich color. I could see how this would work with indica but with sativa...i'd be afraid to try seeing as how it could ruin the high.
Pistils withdraw into the bud? That's a new one on me.
 

Holamikey

Member
I've never heard of that either, but as usual, UB is right on point. I will use all three to determine when my ladies come down.
 

dakin3d

Well-Known Member
Hey UB,

How goes it? Hope all is well man. I am getting ready to purchase some equip for my grow room, and was wondering if I could bother you for some of your expertise? My first question would be, when YOU are setting up a flowering room, what is your thought process w/ regard to the wattage of light that you select (600 vs 1000W)? I'm anticipating setting up 3 Aero/NFT setups that will accommodate 14 plants per unit, for a total of 42 plants in a progressive grow (3 week increments/setup). The room size is still being decided, as I have an unfinished basement I'm going to frame up and finish for appropriate sized clone/veg and flower rooms. From your experience, do you feel I would be better off utilizing 3x 600W HortiluxSHPS bulbs initially, or 2x 1000W on a mover? I've currently started reading Jorge Cervantes' 'The Bible' for general reference. Taking into consideration the pros and cons of each light, I cannot decide which would be more appropriate. These plants will go on a 3 week cycle for each growth stage clone, veg, and then obviously a 9 week rotation in the flower room. So, I don't anticipate having huge plants, but I would still like the best penetration possible (1000W). On the other hand, I'll be able to decrease the distance between light/plants w/ a 600W. In addition, more light sources means increase overlap, and overall more light! What is my determining factor here. This room will be setup as close to ideal as possible, short of being sealed, w/ A/C, I should be able to accommodate all other necessary room components and variables. Your input, as always, is much appreciated. CHeers!
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hey UB,

How goes it? Hope all is well man. I am getting ready to purchase some equip for my grow room, and was wondering if I could bother you for some of your expertise? My first question would be, when YOU are setting up a flowering room, what is your thought process w/ regard to the wattage of light that you select (600 vs 1000W)? I'm anticipating setting up 3 Aero/NFT setups that will accommodate 14 plants per unit, for a total of 42 plants in a progressive grow (3 week increments/setup). The room size is still being decided, as I have an unfinished basement I'm going to frame up and finish. From your experience, do feel I would be better off utilizing 3x 600W HortiluxSHPS bulbs initially, or 2x 1000W on a mover? I've currently started reading Jorge Cervantes' 'The Bible' for general reference. Taking into the pros and cons of each light, I cannot decide which would be more appropriate. These plants will go on a 3 week cycle for each growth stage clone, veg, and then obviously a 9 week rotation in the flower room. So, I don't anticipate having huge plants, but I would still like the best penetration possible (1000W). On the other hand, I'll be able to decrease the distance between light/plants w/ a 600W. In addition, more light sources means increase overlap, and overall more light! What is my determining factor here. This room will be setup as close to ideal as possible, short of being sealed, w/ A/C, I should be able to accommodate all other necessary room components. Your input is much appreciated.
I don't do flowering rooms. My setup is so cheap and easy you'd probably puke. :) Regarding light, you didn't mention the hood, probably the most important consideration other than the wattage. I'm partial to 600W, started the trend 14 years ago when no one had heard of them. That said, you should start small, get a feel for it, understand your program and then go from there. It's all in the balance, not any one factor, that's what I mean by "program". You must balance your light with your availability of salts and water. Penetration is over played here, as is stuff like pH. In fact, my ladies never complain about my penetration, and trust me, it's not very deep. :mrgreen: The lowest leaves stay on until harvest, and the lights are a good 5' or 6' above the lowest branches.



What's really happening is folks are giving their plants high priced crap which induces premature leaf drop. If you understand plant nutrition, then you will have noticed that most cannabis specific foods aren't using correct formulations regarding the NPK values only using gimmictry such as amino acids, enzymes, vitamins and such to hawk their products. Why they sell this shit to their customers is shameless, but like they say, "a sucker is born every minute." The foods are too high in K and too low in N, especially what they try to pass off as a "grow" food for vegetation.

Good luck,
UB
 

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southern homegrower

Well-Known Member
I don't do flowering rooms. My setup is so cheap and easy you'd probably puke. :) Regarding light, you didn't mention the hood, probably the most important consideration other than the wattage. I'm partial to 600W, started the trend 14 years ago when no one had heard of them. That said, you should start small, get a feel for it, understand your program and then go from there. It's all in the balance, not any one factor, that's what I mean by "program". You must balance your light with your availability of salts and water. Penetration is over played here, as is stuff like pH. In fact, my ladies never complain about my penetration, and trust me, it's not very deep. :mrgreen: The lowest leaves stay on until harvest, and the lights are a good 5' or 6' above the lowest branches.



What's really happening is folks are giving their plants high priced crap which induces premature leaf drop. If you understand plant nutrition, then you will have noticed that most cannabis specific foods aren't using correct formulations regarding the NPK values only using gimmictry such as amino acids, enzymes, vitamins and such to hawk their products. Why they sell this shit to their customers is shameless, but like they say, "a sucker is born every minute." The foods are too high in K and too low in N, especially what they try to pass off as a "grow" food for vegetation.

Good luck,
UB
what hood do you use U.B.
 
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