Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

car washer

Active Member
Thanks rep, knowledge is power!!!
I am currently running 5 blueberries in a 6 hole flower system. Already I am thinking about my next grow. Due to space constraints my whole grow must fit into my dr120 tent. So I have no real way to go perpetual and will keep starting from seed until I can figure out the spacing issue.

For next grow what are your thoughts on gowing two separate strains? Each strain on its own side of fencepost. I would like to try red diesel and gh strawberry haze. There is the strain/height issue and different finishing times... Could I finish one side and somehow leave the other strain on the other fencepost? Thanks
 

Jgoasnhja

Well-Known Member
.wysiwyg { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; BACKGROUND: #ffffff; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN: 5px 10px 10px; FONT: 12px verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: #67741e; PADDING-TOP: 0px } .wysiwyg A:link { COLOR: #3c421e } .wysiwyg_alink { COLOR: #3c421e } .wysiwyg A:visited { COLOR: #3c421e } .wysiwyg_avisited { COLOR: #3c421e } .wysiwyg A:hover { COLOR: #666666 } .wysiwyg A:active { COLOR: #666666 } .wysiwyg_ahover { COLOR: #666666 } P { MARGIN: 0px } .inlineimg { VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle } Hey Stinkbud I talked to you about this before but I need some ore help.
This is happening to all the strains now and it starts on the older leaves first and mostly at the tips and edges, then advances towards the middle eventualy and drys out and dies.
We thought that it was nute burn so I lowered the nutes down to 500 at first and watched them. After doing this the plants growth rate seemed to launch and they were growing twice as fast so I figured this fixed the problem. I continued to watch but this problem still continued to happen. I then lowered the nutes down to 300. The growth rate seemed like it dramaticly decreased and I am still seeing this happen to the leaves.

The Temps in the room have been between 75-78F, the PH has stayed at 5.8, the humidity stays around 32-38%

I am using eight 26watt 6500k CFL's like I mentioned before. I have also raised them to a about 3 inches above the plants but I dont wanna raise them to high in fear of streaching. I do not have a fan blowing on the plants so I wondered if the lights could be burning them because of not having a fan.

Please everyone take a look and give me some input because I can not think of what could be the problem and I dont wanna loose the plants because these were my start from seeds so I could take clones to keep running the system. Everyone knows that Feminized seeds are not cheap!

Thanks fellow stinkbuddies!
 

Attachments

repvip

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Rep! I guess I need to back up and reconsider my ideas on Ozone generators.

Essentially, I was thinking if I could get by with not venting the room at all, I could cut out fan costs and keep all my co2 in the room till it was used. Heat and humidity would be ran off a Sentinel greenhouse controller and kept in check by the AC unit and dehumidifier. With this plan in mind, do I NEED to vent the room? If i dont, what would you suggest for odor control?

Also, hate to repeat but I know how things can get lost in the mix after they go back a page or two. My additional questions are:

1. Is the AC unit mentioned back earlier in the thread still considered the best option? If so, do any of you have a link? (cant recall where those posts fell)

2. Should I get a dedicated dehumidifier or will the AC unit cover my needs? If I need another, any recommendations?

3. What PPM meters do you guys recommend? I want to buy a good one to start with.


Thanks again for all the help!
Senator I'm hoping someone else might jump in on the sealed room questions...

Theoretically, if you can keep the temp and humidity down, you should be fine with a sealed room. Smell is always the issue.

They make carbon "scrubbers" that are used with a fan to recirculate air in a room pulling out odors. I have not tried them, but they are ok to use with CO2...

I suppose you could try the Cap OZN-Jr in your flower room--it cycles on 10min, off 10 min, and doesn't put out too much ozone to hurt your plants...

If you do find you need ventilation then I would recommend a carbon filter on the exhaust. This has by far worked the best for me.

2. http://www.nationalgardenwholesale.com/ngw/gardening_supplies.aspx?request=AIR_CONDITIONER_12000BTU&title=AIR PURIFICATION&type=product

Here's the link! Not sure if it is still currently recommended, but any portable AC unit should do. I want one with a removeable bucket for humidity removal (rather than dehumidifying out the exhaust vent of the AC unit). Guess I shouldn't say any... but all AC units dehumidify to some extent, and the portable ones are nice as they almost always have an exhaust hose and won't drip water like a window unit will. Always make sure to buy bigger than you need (same with fans) so you don't have to run it at full capacity all the time.

3. Nice PPM meters don't matter. They are cheap as dirt. Get a TDS meter off ebay for $20 or less... TDS meters measure the conductivity of dissolved salts and convert that to PPM. You will find confusing info on TDS meters not working with organic nutes--this can happen when your nutes aren't dissolved--if they aren't dissolved the meter can't read them..... Organic nutes will sometimes settle out of solution so you should stir your reservoir occassionally.

It's probably more important to spend your money on a nice PH meter. I've gone through two of the cheaper (~$80) ones... they seem to break easy and miscalibrate all the time. I've since switched to pH dip sticks and have no problem, plus they are super cheap. After awhile you won't even check your pH.. maybe once a week or so... you will get comfortable with how much pH down to use. 1.4mL per gallon gets the sweet spot for me :grin:
 

whysohigh

Well-Known Member
Hey Stinkbud I talked to you about this before but I need some ore help.
This is happening to all the strains now and it starts on the older leaves first and mostly at the tips and edges, then advances towards the middle eventualy and drys out and dies.
We thought that it was nute burn so I lowered the nutes down to 500 at first and watched them. After doing this the plants growth rate seemed to launch and they were growing twice as fast so I figured this fixed the problem. I continued to watch but this problem still continued to happen. I then lowered the nutes down to 300. The growth rate seemed like it dramaticly decreased and I am still seeing this happen to the leaves.

The Temps in the room have been between 75-78F, the PH has stayed at 5.8, the humidity stays around 32-38%

I am using eight 26watt 6500k CFL's like I mentioned before. I have also raised them to a about 3 inches above the plants but I dont wanna raise them to high in fear of streaching. I do not have a fan blowing on the plants so I wondered if the lights could be burning them because of not having a fan.

Please everyone take a look and give me some input because I can not think of what could be the problem and I dont wanna loose the plants because these were my start from seeds so I could take clones to keep running the system. Everyone knows that Feminized seeds are not cheap!

Thanks fellow stinkbuddies!
i use cfl's also and unless they the plants have been touching the bulbs for a day or so they wont get burned. i actually had a cfl hovering about 3/4" over a bud for almost 8 weeks, you can move them pretty far away for cloning. i have 6 of the 23 watt bulbs about 18" or so over my clones and i dont get any stretching, just roots in 3 to 5 days. hope this helps.
 

repvip

Well-Known Member
Please everyone take a look and give me some input because I can not think of what could be the problem and I dont wanna loose the plants because these were my start from seeds so I could take clones to keep running the system. Everyone knows that Feminized seeds are not cheap!

Thanks fellow stinkbuddies!
Check your nutes ratio and make sure you aren't using twice the amount of liquid karma... it's prob a long shot, but I had a similar problem a few weeks ago with browning leaves drying from the center out. I had miscalculated and was using twice the amount of liquid karma--the water itself was extremely brown.

I dunno.. just taking a quick peak I would guess nute burn. The new growth looks fine. The browning leaves are screwed... but if your new growth keeps up that is the real key..
 

LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Rep! I guess I need to back up and reconsider my ideas on Ozone generators.

Essentially, I was thinking if I could get by with not venting the room at all, I could cut out fan costs and keep all my co2 in the room till it was used. Heat and humidity would be ran off a Sentinel greenhouse controller and kept in check by the AC unit and dehumidifier. With this plan in mind, do I NEED to vent the room? If i dont, what would you suggest for odor control?

Also, hate to repeat but I know how things can get lost in the mix after they go back a page or two. My additional questions are:

1. Is the AC unit mentioned back earlier in the thread still considered the best option? If so, do any of you have a link? (cant recall where those posts fell)

2. Should I get a dedicated dehumidifier or will the AC unit cover my needs? If I need another, any recommendations?

3. What PPM meters do you guys recommend? I want to buy a good one to start with.


Thanks again for all the help!
...as for the totally sealed room - you can get away with that if you run tanked CO2. Gas burning CO2 generators need enough oxygen to efficiently burn and keep carbon monoxide from being created. Even with a sealed room you need "emergency" exhaust should temps or humid reach harmful levels. There is a cool way to use your exhaust fan as your room scrubber (yes - scrubbing your room through active carbon is the best method for removing odor)... run your carbon filter as normal - but attach a y fitting to other side of your vortex. Put a standard damper on one branch of the y - this will serve as the room scrubber. Put a ZoneControl electronic damper on the other branch of the y - attach this to your humid/temp controller... when activated the ZoneControl damper will open allowing your room to exhaust. The standard damper on the other branch will close while exhausting to ensure all removed air travels through the filter.

You will likely need a dehumid at night (lights out) as the AC will not be able to remove enough moisture without excessive cooling. I have used models from Sears in the past and need one right now! They use less power than AC units and provide that water catch that is so often not present on AC's.... I think Stink and Dirt fill theirs daily with plant sweat.
 

thecholochef

Well-Known Member
i think they should be brown durin veg also right?? unless i screwed up but im pretty sure veg formula calls for liquid karma. anyways, heres pics of b4 and after. was havin water issues, now fixed and within 2 days roots turned a dark brown. wheres the bud porn?? havent seen any pics in a while, lets see em guys

is it normal for the roots in the flower system to get brownish from the nutes? i jus flushed the roots wit luke warm water nd it all came off the roots. thanks..
 

Attachments

gvega187

Well-Known Member
about cloning in general,

I noticed there is no mention about lighting for the clones. Can it burn clones up if you use a 250 flouro or 400 watt hps at distance for cloning? what is that a 24 watt flouro on the cloning page?
 

Saladsmokin

Well-Known Member
i think they should be brown durin veg also right?? unless i screwed up but im pretty sure veg formula calls for liquid karma. anyways, heres pics of b4 and after. was havin water issues, now fixed and within 2 days roots turned a dark brown. wheres the bud porn?? havent seen any pics in a while, lets see em guys
yup thats wat im using the veg formula stink told us to use. Im using it in my first two weeks of flowering. wen i rinsed the roots off they were good again. but i guess its normal like evry1 else said.
 

justanotherguy

Active Member
so i have read avery page of this and i have never had a reson to ask any questions u gusy i thinik have coverd just about all of it but recentley i have been switching to this aero system i also have soil that is finishing do u think that the nute formula whould work with soil and why dont u add sweet in the veg stage it says u can on the bottle i might try it if u guys think it will be ok and id like to say thank you to our master stinkbud dont worry ill def pay it forward oh and yes this is my firs post i usualy just reed but i whould like to know what all of u guys think of my question and i wanted to say thank u to stink
 

LionsRoor

Well-Known Member
about cloning in general,

I noticed there is no mention about lighting for the clones. Can it burn clones up if you use a 250 flouro or 400 watt hps at distance for cloning? what is that a 24 watt flouro on the cloning page?
My two cents:

Sure - you can use any light - a 400 watt HPS can be used at great distance away (6+ feet) but it is way overkill and a waste of electricity for a footprint the size of a Stink AeroCloner... A 250 T5 light setup is also overkill - but again at a distance (several feet) it will work... But your best bet is a standard shop light with CoolWhite flouro tubes. The 2 x 24" shop light fits over the Rubbermaid lid nicely (6 - 12 inches above).
 
Top