DIY with Quantum Boards

pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I'd love to see their business in action! Ask for a tour lol!


Frank Nitty said:
This is the reason why I don't leave my house!!! That driver is really NOTHING compared to the OTHER stuff that I have in here!!! I could buy another one, sure,but why should I have to??? If there was a place to go buy one around here,I'd be there!!! Hlg has a headquarters that's 1-2 hours away and if they sold drivers I'd be on my way!!! Shit,I wonder if I could pick up my orders from them instead of having them shipped???
Click to expand...
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I connect the stranded to a Wago then about 2 inches of 18G to the molex on the QB.When adjusting your lights up and down, solid wire is a pain in the ass.


daveybc said:
I use 18 gauge solid at about 10'. I don't think the molex takes any larger wire. I put a calculator on 18 awg and believe I got a fraction of a percent more drop compared to 16 gauge (It was a while ago when I calculated ). If using UV you may want to look at some UV resistant wire. Greenery Bob had some speced out pages back. Always use solid into molex. some are connecting into stranded from solid by means of Wago or other connector.
Click to expand...
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
daveybc said:
I don't think the molex takes any larger wire.
Click to expand...
daveybc said:
Always use solid into molex. some are connecting into stranded from solid by means of Wago or other connector.
Click to expand...
I know, I'm not talking about the molex connection at all. Extending the driver's output/DC (or, input/AC) cable is all I'm referring to, specifically, about the cable/conductor sizing in regards to "safety/allowable voltage drop.

For DC side, I've been avoiding using 18ga (stranded) for my 10' extensions because I thought it was too small. This is incorrect, right? 18ga stranded is ok at 10'? (based on the voltage drop link I posted?).
I have several connectors I'd like to use to terminate the DC extension, but they have solder terminals and 16ga stranded is too big...If I could use 18ga I may be able to use them.

I have a box power cords from old commercial fixtures (fluros), they're 16/3. I wasn't thinking I could use them...meanwhile, that's the same gauge as a replacement cord for a medium duty power tool (drill, saw, etc.) at 120v and ~13amps... So it should be able to handle 2QBs on a 54v 6A driver, right? Or a 3A ~108V driver, Haha.

Thanks man. :)
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
I use 18 gauge stranded twinlead from my remote drivers to just short of my QBs without a problem. It is also soft and easily maneuvered vs solid wire. I've got runs up to 15' long. losses are insignificant and pose no dangers.
Click to expand...
Thanks pop22. Do you mean like this LINK? Twinlead doesn't bring up much in amazon search. I was thinking this as one option LINK. What I like about the round cable jacket is the option to use a strain relief connector. There's nothing about it being 'speaker wire' that should change the properties of copper, right. I think Loki uses 'speaker wire'.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
You can limit thermal runaway with CV drivers by setting max voltage while the light has no air movement after heating up for 3-4 hrs. Use the VO screw to turn down voltage until you start to slightly dim it. Should limit thermal runaway.

P.S. only works on A type driver. Possibly AB type as well.
Click to expand...
Don't mean to bug you Stephen, or anyone else who knows for sure and cares to offer input. Wanna make sure I do all steps right.

Do you mean: (1) Set both Vo and Io to max. (2) Plug in driver. (3) Let it run at total max like this for 3-4 hours with no direct fan/air movement. (4) Watching a meter, turn the Vo screw down until you start to visually see dimming?

Here's stats. I'm using a DROK/Bayite style meter inline to read parameters (lemme know if I should use DMM).:
-Cold start (just plugged in), with Vo and Io screws turned up to max:
V = 55.12, A = 6.39, W = 352.2, Temp = Ambient/~80f

What I've done.

-I set it up like the cold start above. But then I turned down the Vo/Voltage (immediately) from 55.12V to just under 54V. Here's the startingparameters:

V = 54.97, A = ~5.19, W = didn't catch, 280ish I think.

I just want to understand what I'm doing. I was looking at the table in the datasheet for 320h-54. I noticed the constant current region of the driver is 27-54V. Is this also basically saying that if Vo is turned up higher than 54V that you are now not in that constant current region and is this the reason why thermal runaway is an issue (with this setup)? Is the idea here really to adjust/turn down the voltage/Vo pot. to just under 54V "physically" to force it to stay in CC region/mode, thus eliminating the possibility of it drawing more...current?

Sorry, it felt like a lightbulb maybe. Haha.

Edit: Temps after say...20-30mins: Heatsink = 164f, LED side = 247f. 5.94A, 53.89V, = 320W
Are the leds going to melt and fall off? Lol, the heatsink is hot as fuck.
 
TWest65

TWest65

Well-Known Member
2com said:
Don't mean to bug you Stephen, or anyone else who knows for sure and cares to offer input. Wanna make sure I do all steps right.

Do you mean: (1) Set both Vo and Io to max. (2) Plug in driver. (3) Let it run at total max like this for 3-4 hours with no direct fan/air movement. (4) Watching a meter, turn the Vo screw down until you start to visually see dimming?

Here's stats. I'm using a DROK/Bayite style meter inline to read parameters (lemme know if I should use DMM).:
-Cold start (just plugged in), with Vo and Io screws turned up to max:
V = 55.12, A = 6.39, W = 352.2, Temp = Ambient/~80f

What I've done.

-I set it up like the cold start above. But then I turned down the Vo/Voltage (immediately) from 55.12V to just under 54V. Here's the startingparameters:

V = 54.97, A = ~5.19, W = didn't catch, 280ish I think.

I just want to understand what I'm doing. I was looking at the table in the datasheet for 320h-54. I noticed the constant current region of the driver is 27-54V. Is this also basically saying that if Vo is turned up higher than 54V that you are now not in that constant current region and is this the reason why thermal runaway is an issue (with this setup)? Is the idea here really to adjust/turn down the voltage/Vo pot. to just under 54V "physically" to force it to stay in CC region/mode, thus eliminating the possibility of it drawing more...current?

Sorry, it felt like a lightbulb maybe. Haha.

Edit: Temps after say...20-30mins: Heatsink = 164f, LED side = 247f. 5.94A, 53.89V, = 320W
Are the leds going to melt and fall off? Lol, the heatsink is hot as fuck.
Click to expand...
Using your last current and voltage readings: 53.89v x 5.94a = 320.1066w
It also means the driver sees the circuit as 53.89v / 5.94a = 9.0724 ohms.
18 ga solid wire is .00651 ohms/ft. So 20' of it (10' for the + side, 10' for the - side) is .1302 ohms.
Add the resistances from the circuit and the wire you get 9.0724 + .1302 = 9.2026 ohms.
So when you extend the distance 10' using the 18 ga wire, the driver still puts out the same voltage (53.89v), but with the resistance change, the driver now needs less amperage. 53.89v / 9.2026 ohms = 5.856a, which results in less watts 53.89v x 5.856a = 315.5798w.
Of the 315w that the driver is outputting, the 10' extention is dropping 5.856a x .1302 ohms = .7625v
or .7625v x 5.856a = 4.4652w.

Hope that helps.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
It's been close to 3 hours.

V = 53.89, A = 5.99, W = 322.8. Temp @ Pins of heatsink = 170F, @ LEDs 246F...

@TWest65 I guess you're responding to my question on extending the driver cables, and not the question on testing/setting up an A-type CV driver for 'thermal runaway' protection (as much as possible anyway).
I guess I'm just asking if what the voltage drop calculator suggested is correct, lol. I posted a link earlier. I guess it also depends on what is an/the acceptable voltage drop? I remember 3 and 5% relating to residential (Meter side vs. other, can't remember). I chose 1%, and the calculator indicated that the parameters for the specs were within that, you'd have to check the site/link.

Thanks for commenting.
What is that quote in your sig in reference to?
 
TWest65

TWest65

Well-Known Member
As far as the Twain quote, from what i was able to find out, it was a reference to the bickering among academics about pre-Columbian explorers of the Americas. With the bombardment of lies and disinformation we are subjected to daily by politicians, websites, news sources, and influencers, it seemed like an apt quote.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
TWest65 said:
As far as the Twain quote, from what i was able to find out, it was a reference to the bickering among academics about pre-Columbian explorers of the Americas. With the bombardment of lies and disinformation we are subjected to daily by politicians, websites, news sources, and influencers, it seemed like an apt quote.
Click to expand...
That's about what I figured. Cool, thanks.
 
TWest65

TWest65

Well-Known Member
Not sure if you've seen this video. About 11:46 into the video, it explains that a meanwell CV driver goes to CC mode when the current is maxed out.
 
daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
18 awg is good on the DC side for typical lengths. I use solid since I had a box from a low voltage job I did years back. I dont have problems adjusting my rig with solid wire ( getting to the rope rachets much bigger problem with plants ). Any heavier awg would probably be a pain. The rig in the pic is 18 awg solid. I home run each light to a wago off the driver remote ( 10-12 feet ). On the AC side I put 5-15p male plugs onto drivers and plug into heavy duty ( heavier gauge ) power bars etc. If I run one driver remote to the AC plug, I use a 16 awg extension up to 10-15 feet.


2com said:
I know, I'm not talking about the molex connection at all. Extending the driver's output/DC (or, input/AC) cable is all I'm referring to, specifically, about the cable/conductor sizing in regards to "safety/allowable voltage drop.

For DC side, I've been avoiding using 18ga (stranded) for my 10' extensions because I thought it was too small. This is incorrect, right? 18ga stranded is ok at 10'? (based on the voltage drop link I posted?).
I have several connectors I'd like to use to terminate the DC extension, but they have solder terminals and 16ga stranded is too big...If I could use 18ga I may be able to use them.

I have a box power cords from old commercial fixtures (fluros), they're 16/3. I wasn't thinking I could use them...meanwhile, that's the same gauge as a replacement cord for a medium duty power tool (drill, saw, etc.) at 120v and ~13amps... So it should be able to handle 2QBs on a 54v 6A driver, right? Or a 3A ~108V driver, Haha.

Thanks man. :)
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

2

2com

Well-Known Member
daveybc said:
18 awg is good on the DC side for typical lengths. I use solid since I had a box from a low voltage job I did years back. I dont have problems adjusting my rig with solid wire ( getting to the rope rachets much bigger problem with plants ). Any heavier awg would probably be a pain. The rig in the pic is 18 awg solid. I home run each light to a wago off the driver remote ( 10-12 feet ). On the AC side I put 5-15p male plugs onto drivers and plug into heavy duty ( heavier gauge ) power bars etc. If I run one driver remote to the AC plug, I use a 16 awg extension up to 10-15 feet.
Click to expand...
Excellent, thanks a lot, dave.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Quantum Plant love :

Gojiberry :

1 gallon Grow Bag ( sitting in empty 3 gallon container ) for LST anchoring .
No till bag layering soil ( FFOF / EB Stone )
Great White myco ( once a week )
Tap water 6.3 - 6.5
Top Dress feed ( FFOF )

3500k QB grow ... I did a “ different “ type of LST this time. Instead of typical way , I pulled main to right and LST
the mids and lowers “ forward “ ... and the most bottom sites are growing bigger , shaped like a throne ... lol.
It hit a pretty good size for a 1 gallon bag.

B8D88BA9-D8B3-4573-81A2-A956FF87AF01.jpeg50733314-67AE-4C9A-AEAA-957E6B896814.jpeg0D124048-0BFC-4D8F-B7B2-B130D4669B6C.jpeg

Also ... started another 6 .

Sour Stomper x Purple Gorilla ( Auto Fem )
The Deputy ( Bruce Banner #3 x Stardawg ) Greenpoint seeds ( reg )

E2FD69F4-93F3-4F0E-8E5C-A7AC162CF6B9.jpeg
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Frustration is at an all-time high right now... I left the 4 qb132s hanging so all i have to do is hook up the driver... Shit is not working... I've been rewiring this board since five thirty... 3hrs... I don't take meds,but right now I feel like I should... Im like sooooo close to tearing all this shit down... I just don't understand why this would be happening since it was just working like a champ... I need help before I do something that I would regret in the end...
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
After all is said and done,i know that I can put some shit together!!! And I learned that the best way is to mount the driver outside of the tent!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top