Hey guys, does anyone know how wire these things in the meanwell drivers? I cant seem to find too much info about it. I just watched greengenes video about the amelech controller... is it the same kind of thing?
@Greengenes707
@Greengenes707
Trolmaster Lighting control adapter
- Thread starter banke1
- Start date
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
You need to have drivers capable of dimming to completely to off.
Such as Meanwell...
-HLG320h-cXXXX
-HLG480h-cXXXX
-HLG480h-XX
-HLG600h-XX
Otherwise for drivers such as HLG240h-cXXXX that don’t dim fully to off, you’ll need a controllable outlet too in order to do the final power kill timed to lights on/sunrise and off/sunset.
http://trolmaster.com/content/?295.html
http://trolmaster.com/content/?300.html
If you have the right drivers, you need to wire them to a a rj12 cable in some way. There are a few ways and things to use to do this, but pictured below is what all are doing, no matter the type of connector you choose.
RJ12 cables are flat and the wires stay in that order, even if yours has a different color scheme, the number is more important.
-Connect wires 2&5 together and to the positive(+) dimming lead.
-Connect wires 3&4 together and to the negative(-) dimming lead
#1... most accessible option...
Barrel connectors such as ... https://amzn.to/2J77agw ... are the easiest imo. They have screw terminals for easy connecting one to your trolmaster wires, and the other to driver wires.
#2...
Trolmaster has or will shortly have available(they sent me some a few weeks ago to play with) RJ12 to 3.5mm male cables so you don't have to really deal with stripping the tiny RJ12 wires and putting connectors on the correct wires. So you only need a 3.5mm female adapter such as this one...
- https://amzn.to/2zrV3uU
-And the trolmaster rj12 to 3.5mm male cable...email trolmaster about it, or got back to option #1.
Here is a IG story post I made about it...
Once you have your lights/drivers ready with a connection to an RJ12 cable, just set up the trolmaster system as it shows...
Such as Meanwell...
-HLG320h-cXXXX
-HLG480h-cXXXX
-HLG480h-XX
-HLG600h-XX
Otherwise for drivers such as HLG240h-cXXXX that don’t dim fully to off, you’ll need a controllable outlet too in order to do the final power kill timed to lights on/sunrise and off/sunset.
http://trolmaster.com/content/?295.html
http://trolmaster.com/content/?300.html
If you have the right drivers, you need to wire them to a a rj12 cable in some way. There are a few ways and things to use to do this, but pictured below is what all are doing, no matter the type of connector you choose.
RJ12 cables are flat and the wires stay in that order, even if yours has a different color scheme, the number is more important.
-Connect wires 2&5 together and to the positive(+) dimming lead.
-Connect wires 3&4 together and to the negative(-) dimming lead
#1... most accessible option...
Barrel connectors such as ... https://amzn.to/2J77agw ... are the easiest imo. They have screw terminals for easy connecting one to your trolmaster wires, and the other to driver wires.
#2...
Trolmaster has or will shortly have available(they sent me some a few weeks ago to play with) RJ12 to 3.5mm male cables so you don't have to really deal with stripping the tiny RJ12 wires and putting connectors on the correct wires. So you only need a 3.5mm female adapter such as this one...
- https://amzn.to/2zrV3uU
-And the trolmaster rj12 to 3.5mm male cable...email trolmaster about it, or got back to option #1.
Here is a IG story post I made about it...
Once you have your lights/drivers ready with a connection to an RJ12 cable, just set up the trolmaster system as it shows...
@Greengenes707 im going to have 4 qb288v2's in series on a single HLG-185h-c1050b. I was going to wire all the power cords together in order to only use one nema 6-15 for power. and wire all the dimmers together like you did in the amelech video with multiple drivers. does the 185h-c1050b dim to off? or would I need those switches?
I emailed you also
I think I might just stick to amelech seems a lot easier
I emailed you also
I think I might just stick to amelech seems a lot easier
............ anyways, good info ggNot sure if GG is around still. But if anyone knows...
"You need to have drivers capable of dimming to completely off" in order to what? Just in order to do "sunrise sunset" functions? Or in order to have the controller be able to even turn your lights on and off?
If, after buying the Main controller, the proper lighting adapter, and the proper rj to wire leads, only specific models of drivers can be controlled to turn lights on and off... that sucks.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
The higher wattage drivers can be dimmed until completely off. 240 and lower: you need to pick up some kinda controllable mains module as these modules will only dimm to low. This also applies if you use any meanwell A-type driver as they lack external dimming.
Id rec going with a mains hardwire module anyways cause i dont fully trust on/off dimming, mains will make sure theyre completely off.
Id rec going with a mains hardwire module anyways cause i dont fully trust on/off dimming, mains will make sure theyre completely off.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Just keep reading the post. It told you everything....
The trolmaster light controller is for the dimming leads of the driver essentially. So it can only dim to what the driver is capable of. So you have to have an extra outlet for the final cut off. Weather using sunrise/sunset setting or not. If not using sun up/down, the controller is useless and not needed for a non dim to off driver. Just need an outlet. Dim to off has become standard in almost any driver 10-600w these days. All meanwells will have it sooner than later.
I highly recommend using a driver with dim to off and the controller.
Last edited:
do you know if the inrush current is lower if you power on the driver dimmed vs. undimmed?
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
If it is dimmed to off driver and if off via the dimming leads...yes, the inrush will be much less to nothing. Using sunrise/set as a soft start essentially. If you kill the AC side power, but still have potentiometer or voltage attached...the inrush will still be there when AC is returned on.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
If you power the driver on then the inrush is always there. No matter how far it's dimmed back. Even if it's dimmed to off.
The inrush comes is from charging up the internal capacitors in the driver. So unless they are charged already, they will charge up and result in an inrush.
The only way to prevent the inrush is by keeping the driver powered on at all times. That keeps the capacitors charged. You need a driver that supports dim-to-off to switch it into idle mode. Then you can make it produce light again by reducing the dimming percentage. The AC power remains connected.
Thanks GG.
I definitely would love to use a controller for things like softly ramping up the lights especially.
And that trolmaster can do lots of stuff. But it doesn't 'trol anything without doubling the price on required add-ons. Shit, haha.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Not for dimming, only onboard dimming on a version
tko2184
Well-Known Member
Ok so I have more info only reason it’s a big deal is bc we’re almost finished building flower room. So my hlg will not be with Meanwell driver I will drop spect so evidently hogs cmloming straight from hlg sport an inventronics driver 600 so this is what I am working with further more the hlg 600 v2 rspec which I have coming is 240v which I wanted but no plug at that voltage you have to hardwire from breaker with that being said can I still put this to a troll master? If not I will just run them how they are supposed to be but with a timer just sucks if I have to!
HELP NEEDED ASAP!!!!
HELP NEEDED ASAP!!!!
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JrCaps
Member
I reached out to Trolmaster yesterday and they were super helpful. Higher Authority you are correct with that the A type( internal built in dimmer) you cannot use the LMA14 as it is for dimming through the controller (Only works with B type driver) I purchased a DSP-1 which I will plug into the wall socket and plug the lights into. The DSP-1 is rated at 7.8 amps, each of my 550V2 runs at 2.8 amps so I’ll be able to control the two 550s in my 9x5 tent with just one DSP-1.
TKO another suggestion given to me by the Trolmaster technician is to use a light controller like a Titan Helios 6. They’re rated at 240V which will work for your 240v drivers at 40 amps which is quite a few lights even in a commercial set up. You would still need at DSP-1 to plug the trigger cable from the Helios to fire the lamps upon signal from the HCS-1.
TKO another suggestion given to me by the Trolmaster technician is to use a light controller like a Titan Helios 6. They’re rated at 240V which will work for your 240v drivers at 40 amps which is quite a few lights even in a commercial set up. You would still need at DSP-1 to plug the trigger cable from the Helios to fire the lamps upon signal from the HCS-1.
tko2184
Well-Known Member
@JrCaps thanks but I’m confused does your hlg 550v2 come with a driver different than the. Hlg 600 v2? The driver that comes either the 600’s are dimmable. So the internet is to use the Lma-14 and utilize the controller. See the reason I was bent on using the controller to control the light was so that the room was fully automated. Through controller.
I also have a titan light controller 50 amp that can controll up to 8 lights Does it even make sense to utilize this in the set up of I do use the hydro light controller w the lights?
I also have a titan light controller 50 amp that can controll up to 8 lights Does it even make sense to utilize this in the set up of I do use the hydro light controller w the lights?
JrCaps
Member
My 550V2 is made by HLG. I believe they use the “A” type on their builds and the “B” on DIY, the HLG 600 and the 360 Elite come with the Inventronics drivers for whatever reason. Either way I had no intent on dimming them through the controller. You will need the LMA-14 and that is the correct adapter for the HLG’s as the technician verified it. If you already own the Titan controller definitely use it with the HydroX. It will be a more secure electrical connection if you are running multiple lamps(not to mention half the power at 240v). All the HydroX does is send a low voltage signal to let the current pass and ignite the lamps.
The Inventronics you listed a photo of states it dims to off which means it is similar to the Meanwell B type with the external pots for dimming. If you don’t plan on dimming them I’d just hard wire them to the Titan and throw the trigger cable off the Titan into a DSP-1 and set the timer from the HydroX.
Trolmaster items are about three weeks out here in the US. I ordered my unit almost three weeks ago and it arrived Monday. I’ve got a LMA-14 new in the box if you’re interested.
The Inventronics you listed a photo of states it dims to off which means it is similar to the Meanwell B type with the external pots for dimming. If you don’t plan on dimming them I’d just hard wire them to the Titan and throw the trigger cable off the Titan into a DSP-1 and set the timer from the HydroX.
Trolmaster items are about three weeks out here in the US. I ordered my unit almost three weeks ago and it arrived Monday. I’ve got a LMA-14 new in the box if you’re interested.