10 F562b Samsung Strips 4 custom 660nm reds

ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Stranded wire is fine as conductor, the problem they have is that the connectors on most strips require a 1mm thick solid core in a 2mm thick max wire.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
What does everyone have against stranded wire? Stuff works great and is actually flexible to boot. I fail to see the negatives. Go 14g from the driver to the blocks and from block to block. Go 16g or 18g from the blocks to the strips. That will minimize any voltage loss on your wires and increase current, but I don't think it will be enough. You need a voltage adjustment that the A series drivers provides.

Quick question - where *exactly* in the circuit is that current/power meter's connections placed?
Click to expand...
BTW - 16G wire will drop .05V at 3.6 amps over four feet. At 13 amps it drops .2V.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
Stranded wire is fine as conductor, the problem they have is that the connectors on most strips require a 1mm thick solid core in a 2mm thick max wire.
Click to expand...
I've not had problems using 18g stranded. None. It works just as well in the connectors as solid core wire does. I simply strip 1/4 inch of the insulation, twist the strands tight so there are no strays and push it straight in as far as it will go.
 
Gilligans Island

Gilligans Island

Well-Known Member
Chip Green said:
LED Gardener has a bad design example posted?
Are those 4 far red strips in the same circuit?
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nfhiggs said:
The A series uses two internal adjustments, one for VOLTAGE and one for the current. The B series has no way to adjust voltage. Your strips need more voltage to get the current up. Disconnecting the pot wont do it. You need an A series driver. No other way around it.
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Rut-Roh...

Not trying to hijack the thread but quick question or two. I also used LED gardners design in setting up, I also have b drivers coming for bridgelux strips a mix of 3000k, and 3500k. All components in route as we speak, I have yet to receive.

Do I have an issue?

BXEB-1120Z-5X5-1.png
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
I'm jus gonna order a HLG-320-24A driver. Ill jus eat the 90 bucks. Bc arrow has a no return policy. That is not stated anywhere on their website. At all. Nor in their, return policy posted or privacy policy. Which is absolutely bullshit. But owell. Nothing I can do about it. Fuck arrow.
 
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V

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I am correct in understanding each strip consumes 1.3a of power? If that is so, you will need a driver for each three or four strips it appears. t6ry connecting three strips in parallel and see what the output is. Amps are additive in parallel, and volts are additive in series. So if each strip is 13,300ma or 1.3A per strip and the driver produces 13 amps than ten would be max strips or nine not ten. try disconnecting one strip from the partallel wiring and use only nine strips, and you may see a significant improvement.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
I am correct in understanding each strip consumes 1.3a of power? If that is so, you will need a driver for each three or four strips it appears. t6ry connecting three strips in parallel and see what the output is. Amps are additive in parallel, and volts are additive in series. So if each strip is 13,300ma or 1.3A per strip and the driver produces 13 amps than ten would be max strips or nine not ten. try disconnecting one strip from the partallel wiring and use only nine strips, and you may see a significant improvement.
Click to expand...
No one driver will run all 10. A 320 driver is way too much for 3 strips. It's just the wrong driver. Completely unhooked, and at the driver leads it only puts out 23.99vdc and I can not adjust it. They are right in saying I need the A driver and not the B driver.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
I am correct in understanding each strip consumes 1.3a of power? If that is so, you will need a driver for each three or four strips it appears. t6ry connecting three strips in parallel and see what the output is. Amps are additive in parallel, and volts are additive in series. So if each strip is 13,300ma or 1.3A per strip and the driver produces 13 amps than ten would be max strips or nine not ten. try disconnecting one strip from the partallel wiring and use only nine strips, and you may see a significant improvement.
Click to expand...
They have typ current as 1120mA but I believe max is 2500mA but either way the 320h driver on ten strips should roughly be 1300mA per strip I think. Jus doing it off the top of my head. Which just a tad above typ and not maxed out. I can run the hlg-480h-24a and get 400+ watts. But that' way too much for my tent. Even tho at @75% of max. The calculator shows a 480h driver for ten strips. If you drop to 8 strips it says use a 320h driver. But none the less the B type driver isn't right. I need an A type driver no matter which I go with.
 
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whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Idk which driver to buy now. The HLG-320H-24A OR HLG-480H-24A and dim it down. If I go with the 480H I can always add strips later on if I go bigger space.

Screenshot_20180312-080330.png Screenshot_20180312-080408.png Screenshot_20180312-080439.png
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
You lose some efficiency when you don't use a driver at 100% load.

Just some of my thoughts, I own 10 of the 4' double row strips.
Those perform awesome at roughly 100W, doesn't get too hot and are very bright. Translates to 25W for the smaller strips.

Most people would roll with either 3 or 4 on a 320W (I use 3), which doesn't use all of the load capacity. see line 1

Or even 3 on a 240W.

You use the quarter sticks, so we need to multiply everything by 4

But first things first, is that a 4x2 tent?, If so you I think you will need about 300W of LM561C.

GreneGene had a video up not long ago about a new driver that is 280W, think it even does wifi programming etc... pretty neato looking rigs.
Will try to find it for you later. Those would suit your 10 25W sticks like a glove.

As pointed out, you lose a bit of efficiency by oversizing the driver, but you can always add more strips later until you use all of its output.
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
Idk which driver to buy now. The HLG-320H-24A OR HLG-480H-24A and dim it down. If I go with the 480H I can always add strips later on if I go bigger space.

View attachment 4104323 View attachment 4104324 View attachment 4104326
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Not wanting to open a can of worms on you... But have you thought about getting a 48A driver and setting them up in series of 2? 24 volts doesnt drive very many things people tend to use on this site but 48 volts seem to be a popular voltage in case you want to reuse your drivers at a later occasion. The hlg185-48A is adjustable up to 53 V i think which means you could drive 50V cobs aswell. 2 of them also gets you more than 320 bit less than 480 watts. Ymmv
 
CannaBruh

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
What does everyone have against stranded wire? Stuff works great and is actually flexible to boot. I fail to see the negatives. Go 14g from the driver to the blocks and from block to block. Go 16g or 18g from the blocks to the strips. That will minimize any voltage loss on your wires and increase current, but I don't think it will be enough. You need a voltage adjustment that the A series drivers provides.

Quick question - where *exactly* in the circuit is that current/power meters connections placed?
Click to expand...
Maybe they haven't done enough work with solid core to hate it yet, or done much with stranded to realize how superior it is to work with. Solid core is nice in that it will be bent to fit a shape, but man it sucks to work with... stranded for the win. You can strip/tin the stranded if you have trouble using those stupid wago connectors.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
It is a pain in the behind. I prefer enameled copper wire when I have any on hand for solid core.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
Wrong driver choice. Your strips aren't seeing enough voltage. The driver to use for parallel setups is the HLG-320H-24A. It allows both current and voltage to be adjusted.
.
Click to expand...

uhhh For the 562b the voltage & current numbers are

Operating Current (If) - 1120 - mA (typ)
Operating Voltage (Vf) 21.9(min) 23.0(typ) 24.2(max) Vdc

HLG-320H-24B constant current region is 12-24V with a max of ~24V at 13.34A
clearly capable of driving 10 of the samsung strips in parallel is it not?

something else is going on the driver should work. Does it look like 86 watts ? From the pic it looks much brighter, but photos can be deceiving.

Suggest putting a multimeter on the circuit and measure voltage and current, also check your watts at the wall.
 
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whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
I went with the hlg-320-24a to run @24v. I wanna stay at 24v bc my reds are also 24v. Run on a different driver. By meanwell. I think 300 watts would do great. To hit 30 watts per square foot it' 270 watts. Jus give it 30 more watts roughly won' hurt. I run a tight tent. I need all the extra light I can get. I appreciate everyones help. Arrow finally emailed me back. And refunded my money. So atleast I didn' have to eat it. And be stuck with a driver I can' use.
 
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