Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

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Devildenis69

Well-Known Member
alesh said:
MW drivers use PWM only as a mean of transportation of the signal. Actual dimming is done by reducing the current. It means that the efficiency is the same no matter whether done via resistance, PWM or 1-10VDC.
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so you mean there's something (a RC maybe) that is converting the pwm signal to a 1-10V, at the "dim input" ... am I getting this right ?
so that means that a pwm dimming won't make led flickering ? (I don't mean for our eyes, but on an oscilloscope for exemple)
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Devildenis69 said:
so you mean there's something (a RC maybe) that is converting the pwm signal to a 1-10V, at the "dim input" ... am I getting this right ?
so that means that a pwm dimming won't make led flickering ? (I don't mean for our eyes, but on an oscilloscope for exemple)
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I don't know the exact mechanism (what's converted to what) but yes, the output is not PWM style and won't flicker. This applies to the most of the MW drivers but there is at least one exception - PWM-xx drivers do put out in PWM style, regardless of the method of dimming. Not sure whether there are some others.
BTW all of this is described in each driver's data sheet in the 'Dimming Operation' section.
 
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Devildenis69

Well-Known Member
alesh said:
I don't know the exact mechanism (what's converted to what) but yes, the output is not PWM style and won't flicker. This applies to the most of the MW drivers but there is at least one exception - PWM-xx drivers do put out in PWM style, regardless of the method of dimming. Not sure whether there are some others.
BTW all of this is described in each driver's data sheet in the 'Dimming Operation' section.
Click to expand...
thanks a lot, I was wondering about it for a long time :wall::weed:

edit:
and while you're here I have a kinda dumb question, I was planning to dim throught a vdc signal clockwisely (rising slowly, then a sinus and decrease ) and make that signal pass throught a 0-100k to increase intensity manually daywisely ... everything seems okay

but a pwm signal is so much simplier to generate, so what would happen with pwm throuhgt a 0-100k ?
if an RC is used ... I think it might work ... do I have any idea of others systems that could be used ?
I would be very interested in your thoughts about it.
 
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WwW1962

WwW1962

Well-Known Member
Dropping in to show my gratitude and thanks ..i have the new driver up and running..im half blind from testing it.
with the dimmer it starts @ 12.5 watts draw..10 turn pot wasn't a good idea but i got to 75 watts @ 3/4 power
couldn't even look to long..it's a beast my friend, running 19 XML2 , i think the 10 coming chips will be for a window strip
light project, might as well use that 40 w driver for something :)
i will be making some flowering cob's shortly ..thank you again..details are everything buddy
WwW
 

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Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
The new build: ( 32 ) cxb3590 ( 36v ) CD 3500K @ 700ma for a 4'x8' space
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Parts List / King Brite Invoice / Budget: $2600+

cxb3590 budget.png

cobs lined up.JPG

This is my first experience with cxb3590s and to be honest, I am a little unsure if a 700ma drive current will provide enough ppfd for my 4x8 space. In designing this build, I wanted to be able to quickly and easily swap drivers to one HLG185h-c1400 per bar if I decide that I need more light. So I wired each hlg700 to be able to accept a connection from each bar, individually.

Wiring pictured in attachments: Using 2 DC female jacks, I wired the (+) from the driver to the (+) of one female jack, then the (-) to the (-) of another jack. Then I added a yellow jumper wire from the (-) of jack one to the (+) of jack two. This allows me to complete the circuit for ( 8 ) cobs to one 700ma driver while allowing me to quickly plug a bar into a 1400ma driver without rewiring.

bar lit up.JPG

Im calculating 659 PPFD, for this setup over 32 sqft. Do you guys think this will be enough juice, or do you think I should add another 8 cobs @ 700ma?
 

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Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
I would have gone for at least 1050 current at minimum. but good luck with the 700 current.

as usual, your light bars look great
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Thanks man. Yeah, my gut is telling me that I am going to be a little under powered for this run. I really wanted to stick with the (4) cobs per bar design so I didn't even consider 1050ma. I'll probably give this a single run. And if the harvest isn't up to par, Ill swap out to 1400ma drivers and blast dis beatch.

Or, another option is : stick with the 32 cobs @ 700ma. and add some little bars in between with a shit load of 660nm deep reds, what do u think about that idea?
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
Thanks man. Yeah, my gut is telling me that I am going to be a little under powered for this run. I really wanted to stick with the (4) cobs per bar design so I didn't even consider 1050ma. I'll probably give this a single run. And if the harvest isn't up to par, Ill swap out to 1400ma drivers and blast dis beatch.

Or, another option is : stick with the 32 cobs @ 700ma. and add some little bars in between with a shit load of 660nm deep reds, what do u think about that idea?
Click to expand...
I like the idea of adding some UVA\RoyalBlue plus deep red 660 monos to supplement. You can even add some far reds on a separate timer for sunset\sunrise emulation. I still think that 35K or 3K cobs don't have enough deep red. and not enough UVA\RB for frosting. besides my main cob lights I have a bunch of "flowering bars" with the extra monos and the far red in between the main lights. kind of like the way you laid out the BMLs.


how are the lenses working on the 3590 vs 3070s ?
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
I like the idea of adding some UVA\RoyalBlue plus deep red 660 monos to supplement. You can even add some far reds on a separate timer for sunset\sunrise emulation. I still think that 35K or 3K cobs don't have enough deep red. and not enough UVA\RB for frosting. besides my main cob lights I have a bunch of "flowering bars" with the extra monos and the far red in between the main lights. kind of like the way you laid out the BMLs.


how are the lenses working on the 3590 vs 3070s ?
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This is my first experience with lenses, so ill have to get back to you on performance once I'm done with the project. From a size perspective, the 100mm KB lenses are larger than I expected, but it does provide plenty of working room for the ideal cob holder + space to wire it.

On the light bars, I understand the deep reds, royal blues, and the theory of faster bud set with far red run right before the main lights come on and off. But what I don't have a firm grasp on are UVA leds, how to use them and which ones to buy, got any tips/sources?

Thanks!
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 said:
This is my first experience with lenses, so ill have to get back to you on performance once I'm done with the project. From a size perspective, the 100mm KB lenses are larger than I expected, but it does provide plenty of working room for the ideal cob holder + space to wire it.

On the light bars, I understand the deep reds, royal blues, and the theory of faster bud set with far red run right before the main lights come on and off. But what I don't have a firm grasp on are UVA leds, how to use them and which ones to buy, got any tips/sources?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

its mostly a matter of providing wavelengths that are missing. There is a whole big theory that UVB, and lower UVA wavelengths increase terpenes and general frostiness. GreenGenes has also observed frosty differences between apache (cool whites plus 630 reds) cob 4Ks, cob 3.5Ks and cob 3Ks with the apaches being the frostiest.

Personally I'm cautious about inserting UVBs in my grow, cause too much is worse than too little, and generally UVA wavelengths are much safer, especially around actinic ranges (400-420). I'm using UVA monos from rapidled.

http://www.rapidled.com/total-spectrum-violet-uv-led/
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5 Awesome brother!!! Driver control box is on point. IP65+ baby...now you can hose that side of the room off if you wanted after a run(or just for fun). Maybe just a dab of silicon in the wire through holes if you really wanted to get picky.
I support one more bar if you can do it. Should get you to ~865µmols PPFD...right in the money zone IMEO.


PurpleBuz said:
. GreenGenes has also observed frosty differences between apache (cool whites plus 630 reds) cob 4Ks, cob 3.5Ks and cob 3Ks with the apaches being the frostiest../
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I've never made definitive actual comparisons between AT and cobs. AT causing a more purple/pink fade is the only thing that I've shown/proven. Apaches flowers look very good, and by personal preferences could "look better" to someone. That is all.
The one run they were all together...the apaches got UVB for 2 weeks...go check the pics...reason being because I knew that my apache flowers were getting entered in the cup. While the 4k only got it for 1 day(so none in my book)...and 3k got some slight UVB crossover, but never direct....Plus the whole garden was getting all kinds of crossover. There was nothing about that run that would validate any kind of comparison, there were far too many variable and no controls.
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
@Growmau5 Awesome brother!!! Driver control box is on point. IP65+ baby...now you can hose that side of the room off if you wanted after a run(or just for fun). Maybe just a dab of silicon in the wire through holes if you really wanted to get picky.
I support one more bar if you can do it. Should get you to ~865µmols PPFD...right in the money zone IMEO.



I've never made definitive actual comparisons between AT and cobs. AT causing a more purple/pink fade is the only thing that I've shown/proven. Apaches flowers look very good, and by personal preferences could "look better" to someone. That is all.
The one run they were all together...the apaches got UVB for 2 weeks...go check the pics...reason being because I knew that my apache flowers were getting entered in the cup. While the 4k only got it for 1 day(so none in my book)...and 3k got some slight UVB crossover, but never direct....Plus the whole garden was getting all kinds of crossover. There was nothing about that run that would validate any kind of comparison, there were far too many variable and no controls.
Click to expand...

gotcha understand didn't know you added uvb just for the prize
 
HockeyBeard

HockeyBeard

Well-Known Member
I was under the impression that UVA/UVB cannot be created with LED light, and you've gotta use a floro for that.
 
HockeyBeard

HockeyBeard

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I think the blue phosphors are really hard to dial in or create with the intensity needed for such applications.
 
Growmau5

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
As simple as this passive setup looks, I put a hell of a lot more time into building it than I anticipated. I am having that feeling right now where I could die happily if I never have to sand, drill or tap another heatsink ever again. ..

Joking of course, I love this shit too much. But I will definitely need a breather before starting any new projects.

top of 3590s.JPG 3590s hung.JPG
 
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