Wow, that Mycorrhizal fungi is no joke!

CSI Stickyicky

Well-Known Member
I just transplanted my plants into 3 gallon pots from 1 gallon, and noticed the intense roots. I'm sorry for no root ball pics, i didn't even think of it until now, and they are already in their new pots.

This was my first grow using both mycorrhizal fungi innoculant and soil with mycorrhizae already in it. The roots were seriously intense. Tons of really thin strands that penetrated every last soil pocket. Using soil with myco in it helps, but i dont think its enough; it was when i started using the innoculant that they really got thick.



Two bagseed from some great Blackberry Kush, both 1 week into 12/12 and 1 Afghan Kush Special from World of Seeds, which is going into 12/12 today. They are going under a 150HPS/90W LED combo.

Under the T5's in the bottom of the cabinet are my The Church from Greenhouse Seeds: one mother and one clone of the church.

Here is the building of the locking metal grow cabinet i made, that these are in: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/397206-csi-stickyickys-locking-metal-grow.html
 

Attachments

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Yeah, the stuff in the soil is good, but the roots still have to find it. Direct inoculation works best.

Wet
Meaning spray it on your roots or sprinkle right around the transplant. For seeds too.

CSI: How you liking the LED?
 

CSI Stickyicky

Well-Known Member
That LED is not bad. It is perfect for small spaces. I've had it for a couple years now, and it's grown anything i've put it over. It's WAY better than fluoros, but i still think HPS is best. I am thinking that the HPS/LED combo will be pretty nice. The HPS has wider coverage, but the LED leads to tighter internodes. Best of both worlds.
 

CSI Stickyicky

Well-Known Member
I just realized that this thread was started right at 4:20PM. Why in the hell was i typing at that particular minute? I should have had my hands on a grinder, a bic, or the controls to my Volcano.
 
hey bro was jus checkin out those pics...im just sayin mycorrihaze is good and all but it aint no good if your not feeding them little guys...for fungal species(what you want in flower) to thrive you need insoluble sources of phosphate like bone meal and complex sources of carbohydrates like natural rolled oats...for bacterial species(what you want in veg) to thrive you need insoluble everything like dolomite lime, blood meal and or high N guano earthworm castings and most of all carbohydrates like sugar or molasses what all these do is stick around in the soil and eventually feed the species then in turn the plant..not hydro or soluble nutes whatsoever(except humics) as these can be acidic and kill living species(mycorrhizae). If you dont have an abundance of these in your soil already you need to make compost teas at least every third watering: a good veg tea will have a cup of earthworm castings, 3oz(6 tablespoons) Mexican high N guano or blood meal, 3oz Bone Meal(High P), and 3-4oz greensand(high k), as well as 3 oz liquid humics, 1 teaspoon dolomite lime(stabilizes PH and provides cal/mag) and 3 oz sugar also add your mychorrizal inoculant if it has bacterial properties if not then nevermind it for veg... Flower teas should look like: 1 cup earthworm castings, 1oz high N guano or bloodmeal, 5oz bonemeal(high p), and 4 oz greensand(high k), 3oz liquid humics, 1 tablespoon dolomite lime, and 1/2 cup natural rolled oats for complex carbs, add 3oz molasses to the water as well. These are mixes for 5 galoons of water so if you use less say like 2.5-3 gallons of water just half everthing...the best thing to do is add all these ingredients into a nylon stocking and moisten it with (non-chlorinated water(very very very important!!!) if you have city water then it has chlorine which is killing you living species...the way to not get chlorinated water is to use an air stone and air pump to circulate air through the water for 24 hours before making any kind of compost tea with it...make sure the water is nice and warm and in a place where it doesnt get too much light otherwise it will grow harmful organisms(yin-yang) as well like pythium which is a mold that rots your plant. so now take your nylon stocking with all the ingredients and moisten it in an airtight container that doesnt let light in put the lid on and keep it in a warm(hot if possible) dry dark place for 2-7 days then place the stocking in you non chlorinated water with the airstones and it will brew and fizz up after 24-48 hours of that in a warm low light area it will be ready to use but make sure you dont brew it for more than 48 hrs and use it as it will be bad...24hrs is your best bet...also dont try to change the PH with organic growing EVER...vinegar:bad, lime juice:bad, anything that adjusts PH:bad...it is pointless with TRUE organic growing which is defined by living organism symbiosis with the plant to make it grow, NOT LIQUID HYDRO SOLUBLE INSTANTLY AVAILABLE FORCE FEEDING! lol. The whole key with organics is to feed the living organisms first, then the plant gets fed by them so solubles(except humic, fish and kelp) are pointless and wasteful to ecosystems neway...trust me bro and never worry about that PH I battled it for years only to find i was wasting my time and hurting the plant...the living organism create their own environment in the soil that they NEED to thrive, this includes the ph of it as well, they control it so your only fighting them to go and change it...the only reason growers of the hydro craze these days say all about how ph is sooo important is because they are not relying on living organisms to grow their plants they are just force feeding their plants with liquid solubles so they need everything to be INSTANTLY available to the plant without the help of living organisms so they haf to change the ph and flush out the salts to make that possible...also this whole thing about flushing you soil is total BS unless your are rowing with liquid salts(solubles) it also kills living organisms by flushing them out and thus promotes growth of bad organisms since no good ones are there to stabilize the envirnment of the soil...i water with as little drainage as possible every time by only giving the plant a half watering in the morning and then the other half during the mid day peak which occurs indoors as well if you know your plants enuf you know what time of the day that is also i wait to water till the pots are FULLY dry and make a habit of doing it in the morning so the plants expect it then and they are slightly drooped on time every 3rd morning as planned...also in between waterings an underside leaf spray of neem and fish & seaweed and liquid humics and bronners soap in the morning seems to be the best ive found... My plants looked just like that for a long time till i figured it out, they need food bro and pls try to find some fine grade dolomite lime and forget about changing your ph and that leaf curl will tidy up trust me i been in that same place with my plants i can see it...dont flush ever except harvest time and even then you need to use molasses...if you decide to use any of this let me know and i will guide you through it its what i live for teaching people about true organic non soluble growing. and there re some very sustainable ways to recycle all the waste from these things to create better soil than you ever imagined with no$ at all once it gets going good. ONE LOVE blaze up de chalice!!! Keep it I-tal bredren
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
Yesss ...myco is quite an amazing product when used amended with your soil (even if it's already added to the soil), but i find it best for transplanting. No arguing when you say it's no joke. I've used a bit too much and ended up having to transplant every three weeks roughly.
If you don't mind me asking, what kind of myco are you using and how are you using it again????? I use Plant Success, for soil and soiless apps. It contans bone and blood meal also for transplant ease ... and yes make sure you feed it beneficals, and watch high P foods with it. It can only uptake so much P. so IMO go EASY on the bloom foods. It's a must-have for my grow. Good aerated pots help with the root growth and health too... anyways you probably know this all...
to the poster above
....I know there's a ton of good info in that post. But i'm too stoned to read that huge paragrph ... i say break it up into paragraphs next time so people like me can absorb it. Not trashing you for bad english at all ..i suck ... Just saying ... i want to read it but there's TOO many words coming at me at once =")
 

fallinprince

Active Member
If you truly want to know about beneficial bacteria read through this thread. it contains all the pros and cons one of the cons being the OBSCENE length of the thread it actually evolves as it goes

>>>>https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html<<<<<

near the end he recommends buying MycoGrow™ Soluble from http://fungi.com/mycogrow/index.html for around 5$ and using ancient forest 20$ then brewing the tea for 48 hours in a VERY bubbly bucket of NON CHLORINE water. with 1 tablespoon of molasses. then using that to inoculate ANY setup.

Im currently using great white and ancient forest and my roots are starting to look AMAZING
 
yeah i think ill start a thread for that huge paragraph one day...if neone wants to beat me to it be my guest your welcome fix that paragraph up a bit and use it...i just dont have time for all that i garden full time everyday so i just do it and do what works plain and simple. Anything i post has been tried and tested through YEARS of trial and error trying it this way and that way i mustve used damn near every soil, nutrient and whatever else i can think of and it all boiled down to this...these recipes and suggestions are what makes the best herb:smell, taste, high yeild and disease/pest resistant plants, i use all this myself and have a few very good recipes for a few different things if you have access to a local grow store that supplies good dry mix organics (i use mostly "Age Old" amendments).So if neone wants to help me start a thread for this id be down to help neone get it right with TRUE organics and grow the best herb they ever knew(hopefully lol)
 
the trick to not getting too big roots with mycorrhize and kelp is not to over water or you dont need to water till drainage with organics because your not using liquid soluble salts that need flushed out...ive grown huuuuuge plants outside that had roots maybe only a foot deep and wide actually prolly half that...if the roots dont need to search why should they...just water once or twice with very small waterings each day its much more beneficial and the plant definitely uptakes more of what you give it that way..so half watering in the morning, half watering during their midday peak. ONE LOVE keep it I-tal mi bredren and sistren
 
sorry im posting soo much its a dull day...ive used it for foliar it works great you should brew it up in a tea with earthworm castings, fish&seaweed and molasses for the ultimate foliar spray. if i use that in between waterings when the pots arent too wet...also lowers mites for some reason and molds and mildew...do not ever ph your water when you put that stuff in it and if your really growing organic dont ever ph your water period...just use humics, earthworm castings and dolomite lime to stabilize ph but dont try to adjust it to what you think is best...but yeah the mycorrhizae fights bad fungus and bacteria,like powdery mildew, when used foliar...

ATAXIA,

you said be careful adding too much Phosphate to your mix because the plant can only use soo much...

while this is true it is also only so when using liquid soluble salt nutrients...

you need lots of amendments in the soil to stick around and become food for, in the case of phosphate or bone meal, beneficial fungi...

its really really hard to add too much dry oil amendments to your mix because they are not salts so they never cause lockup...

what happens is when basically the time is right the beneficial living organisms eat them up and then exchange it to the plant in an available form for carbohydrates stored in the plants roots...this symbiotic relationship is what true organic non soluble growing is ALL ABOUT, lots of dry non soluble amendments like guano, earthworm castings, bone meal, kelp meal and greensand.it is all esentially food for the organisms in the soil and not directly even for the plant at all...thats real organics...you should never drain the food source out of the pots with organics also...they are not salts once again so they do not cause lockout...ppm, soluble, ph, flush, nutes, lockout and rockwool are something you should never think or hear about if you deal with real organic growing that is classified as the use of living organisms and not "nutrients" to grow the plant...ne one needing help with any of this please contact me asap and i will let you know asap...Iman keep it I-tal for all RASTA from creation
 

South Texas

Well-Known Member
Compare the Mycro... stuff to 'Thrive', made by alfa bio. Instead of one particular microbial life, you get a LOT more with Thrive. Also, Whole Ground/Stone Ground Cornmeal will kill off bad bacteria, eliminating a lot of problems. It's found in the Grocery store. Thrive should be at a good local Nursery. Not Super Thrive,... that's only for fucked-up plants. Which is rare when not usiing Chem-Shit Ferts.
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
sorry im posting soo much its a dull day...ive used it for foliar it works great you should brew it up in a tea with earthworm castings, fish&seaweed and molasses for the ultimate foliar spray. if i use that in between waterings when the pots arent too wet...also lowers mites for some reason and molds and mildew...do not ever ph your water when you put that stuff in it and if your really growing organic dont ever ph your water period...just use humics, earthworm castings and dolomite lime to stabilize ph but dont try to adjust it to what you think is best...but yeah the mycorrhizae fights bad fungus and bacteria,like powdery mildew, when used foliar...

ATAXIA,

you said be careful adding too much Phosphate to your mix because the plant can only use soo much...

while this is true it is also only so when using liquid soluble salt nutrients...

you need lots of amendments in the soil to stick around and become food for, in the case of phosphate or bone meal, beneficial fungi...

its really really hard to add too much dry oil amendments to your mix because they are not salts so they never cause lockup...

what happens is when basically the time is right the beneficial living organisms eat them up and then exchange it to the plant in an available form for carbohydrates stored in the plants roots...this symbiotic relationship is what true organic non soluble growing is ALL ABOUT, lots of dry non soluble amendments like guano, earthworm castings, bone meal, kelp meal and greensand.it is all esentially food for the organisms in the soil and not directly even for the plant at all...thats real organics...you should never drain the food source out of the pots with organics also...they are not salts once again so they do not cause lockout...ppm, soluble, ph, flush, nutes, lockout and rockwool are something you should never think or hear about if you deal with real organic growing that is classified as the use of living organisms and not "nutrients" to grow the plant...ne one needing help with any of this please contact me asap and i will let you know asap...Iman keep it I-tal for all RASTA from creation
I've been reading more and more about organics and have notice exactly what you're saying as far as organics feeding the soil and not the plants. I'm however not in the postion ATM to mix up my own dry ingredients and brew any teas. Believe me if i had the space and the time i'd surely take every bit of advice you're giving. I've heard so many great things about organics but alot of it takes some time, space, and know-how. More recently i've been trying to amend my own soil with different things, just to get the feel of it ....I'm still getting the feel of it though ...
So i understand that you're not all for solubles .. So say i can't mix my soil or brew my own teas....
I'm stuck in the Three part liquid system right now, I know what it takes to feed a plant and what organic can be used but i'm still iffy on how they're used. Things like Humic acid, fulvic acid, sea kelp ..etc. i've done the research. I've read how it helps the plant and/or root system, but when or how is it used. with solubles you have your three part system....blah blah.
But say i picked up a bottle of humic acid i'm still not clear on when or how these apps should be used...
ok so lets scrap that whole rant.
do you have an easy, clean way to amend soil without turning my apt into a mess (something i have a tendency to do) I'd like to know more. Super Soil sounds like a great idea without the use of any fertz during growing.... still trying to figure out an easy way to keep it clean. I've noticed some organic tweeks i've been doing to my soil like adding a sample i got of what's basically chicken manure and blood and bone meal has worked wonders without having to feed the plants anything other than water. Other problems that arise in urban gardening is the need for non chlorinated water, which, is an easy fix once a water filter is in place but until then, it sounds like it'd be useless if chlorinated tap water would be counter active against the organic method .......I'M FUCKING RAMBLING! good info brotha.
 

poplars

Well-Known Member
hey bro was jus checkin out those pics...im just sayin mycorrihaze is good and all but it aint no good if your not feeding them little guys...for fungal species(what you want in flower) to thrive you need insoluble sources of phosphate like bone meal and complex sources of carbohydrates like natural rolled oats...for bacterial species(what you want in veg) to thrive you need insoluble everything like dolomite lime, blood meal and or high N guano earthworm castings and most of all carbohydrates like sugar or molasses what all these do is stick around in the soil and eventually feed the species then in turn the plant..not hydro or soluble nutes whatsoever(except humics) as these can be acidic and kill living species(mycorrhizae). If you dont have an abundance of these in your soil already you need to make compost teas at least every third watering: a good veg tea will have a cup of earthworm castings, 3oz(6 tablespoons) Mexican high N guano or blood meal, 3oz Bone Meal(High P), and 3-4oz greensand(high k), as well as 3 oz liquid humics, 1 teaspoon dolomite lime(stabilizes PH and provides cal/mag) and 3 oz sugar also add your mychorrizal inoculant if it has bacterial properties if not then nevermind it for veg... Flower teas should look like: 1 cup earthworm castings, 1oz high N guano or bloodmeal, 5oz bonemeal(high p), and 4 oz greensand(high k), 3oz liquid humics, 1 tablespoon dolomite lime, and 1/2 cup natural rolled oats for complex carbs, add 3oz molasses to the water as well. These are mixes for 5 galoons of water so if you use less say like 2.5-3 gallons of water just half everthing...the best thing to do is add all these ingredients into a nylon stocking and moisten it with (non-chlorinated water(very very very important!!!) if you have city water then it has chlorine which is killing you living species...the way to not get chlorinated water is to use an air stone and air pump to circulate air through the water for 24 hours before making any kind of compost tea with it...make sure the water is nice and warm and in a place where it doesnt get too much light otherwise it will grow harmful organisms(yin-yang) as well like pythium which is a mold that rots your plant. so now take your nylon stocking with all the ingredients and moisten it in an airtight container that doesnt let light in put the lid on and keep it in a warm(hot if possible) dry dark place for 2-7 days then place the stocking in you non chlorinated water with the airstones and it will brew and fizz up after 24-48 hours of that in a warm low light area it will be ready to use but make sure you dont brew it for more than 48 hrs and use it as it will be bad...24hrs is your best bet...also dont try to change the PH with organic growing EVER...vinegar:bad, lime juice:bad, anything that adjusts PH:bad...it is pointless with TRUE organic growing which is defined by living organism symbiosis with the plant to make it grow, NOT LIQUID HYDRO SOLUBLE INSTANTLY AVAILABLE FORCE FEEDING! lol. The whole key with organics is to feed the living organisms first, then the plant gets fed by them so solubles(except humic, fish and kelp) are pointless and wasteful to ecosystems neway...trust me bro and never worry about that PH I battled it for years only to find i was wasting my time and hurting the plant...the living organism create their own environment in the soil that they NEED to thrive, this includes the ph of it as well, they control it so your only fighting them to go and change it...the only reason growers of the hydro craze these days say all about how ph is sooo important is because they are not relying on living organisms to grow their plants they are just force feeding their plants with liquid solubles so they need everything to be INSTANTLY available to the plant without the help of living organisms so they haf to change the ph and flush out the salts to make that possible...also this whole thing about flushing you soil is total BS unless your are rowing with liquid salts(solubles) it also kills living organisms by flushing them out and thus promotes growth of bad organisms since no good ones are there to stabilize the envirnment of the soil...i water with as little drainage as possible every time by only giving the plant a half watering in the morning and then the other half during the mid day peak which occurs indoors as well if you know your plants enuf you know what time of the day that is also i wait to water till the pots are FULLY dry and make a habit of doing it in the morning so the plants expect it then and they are slightly drooped on time every 3rd morning as planned...also in between waterings an underside leaf spray of neem and fish & seaweed and liquid humics and bronners soap in the morning seems to be the best ive found... My plants looked just like that for a long time till i figured it out, they need food bro and pls try to find some fine grade dolomite lime and forget about changing your ph and that leaf curl will tidy up trust me i been in that same place with my plants i can see it...dont flush ever except harvest time and even then you need to use molasses...if you decide to use any of this let me know and i will guide you through it its what i live for teaching people about true organic non soluble growing. and there re some very sustainable ways to recycle all the waste from these things to create better soil than you ever imagined with no$ at all once it gets going good. ONE LOVE blaze up de chalice!!! Keep it I-tal bredren
fucking amazing post... you summed up organics in one fucking post.. I didn't think it was possible... good job!!!
 

fallinprince

Active Member
its only useful as a foliar feed if you are combating disease or mildew otherwise especially with great white your just throwing your money down the drain

ive poured my beneficial bact on top of the plants (to soak the rockwool underneath) and the only thing that changed was the roots got bigger. ya know like it was supposed to
 
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