World Of Hempy

newworldicon

Well-Known Member
In time you will all realise that mapito is the best medium for hempy style growing, it has all of the properties required for hempy. Wicking action for smaller plants, huge aeration qualities, stability, reusable at least 4-5 times and does indeed get better with age. Use it once and never look back.
 

newworldicon

Well-Known Member
(literally ) smoked a cheese joint next thing awoke on the sofa .... wtf ... not again. I must be super tired or this weed is super strong. I got the munchies so bad right now Its not even funny. Can't wait for my food to arrive. Damn. :eyesmoke:

re Mapito

I probably won't reuse it everytime (btw This is literally my first trial of it) I'll probably reuse it a couple of times max. I see it a bit like washing a dirty duvet in the bath. meh. This is not hard work for me compared to 'stuff' Ive done in the past. ...For years I carried bricks on my shoulder up and down a ladder for my Father whos a builder, it wasnt so bad, this is nothing really.
Moebius, my advice to you is to do this with the mapito, if you are consistent with your nutrient/ph solutions the medium gets better all the time, you will find you only need to top up, you don't need to even remove the roots, just pull the root ball stem or most of it out, should always be around a tennis ball size from clones, the rest can stay, then top up with a handful of new stuff. The mother plant pic I posted in here somewhere is in mapito that had been used for clones flowered out exactly the same as you are doing now 5 times, I just broke it up and put it in the hempy it's in now and planted the seed straight in it. That was a seed 9 weeks from germination under a 2x55W PLL sunmate when pic taken. It shows just how stable a performer this stuff is.

TO ALL THE GUYS WANTING TO MAKE THEIR OWN: rather use large chunk coco husk instead of PU foam, it has natural enzymes that assist the medium. This is from Franco at GHS company.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
That's quite the base stem for a cup grow.
If stems were considered bag appeal,then the fert salt stains would be considered a delicacy..

I like the root shot Dalek, and it shows that the roots do want to work their way into the rez, and the depth may be directly related to the level maintained in the rez.

Thks,and yes.I just see roots as seeking comfort with the goals set in there DNA.Comfort will be sacrificed by the plant for food,water,and air.

I should have taken photos of the root ball when I broke down the outdoor girl, I started to clean the perlite for recycle, and there were so many roots that I finally just threw it all out. The bucket hadn't completely dried when I pulled the plug out, but the roots were so thick that over 1/2 the wet rez perlite came out with the core. I'd never seen this before, but then again I've never had to feed a plant one and a quarter gal's a day for 6wks either.
Man that must have been one big,and hot girl.
Thing about about Hempy is it has awesome yield potential in given container over a same size pot of soil.There is less chance of root bound given equal time span as soil.I just think this passive hydro method is comfortable to the plant overall,and chills out to make you bud.Well she just wants to reproduce,but lets look the other way. :-O


Yes...I will document the chamber of horror results.
 

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smoothness

Active Member
Man that must have been one big,and hot girl.
Thing about about Hempy is it has awesome yield potential in given container over a same size pot of soil.There is less chance of root bound given equal time span as soil.I just think this passive hydro method is comfortable to the plant overall,and chills out to make you bud.Well she just wants to reproduce,but lets look the other way. :-O


Yes...I will document the chamber of horror results.
is that cotton u r growing it in? my hempy seedlings are finally growing. but the first true leaves of most of them are start to turn lime green. hope its not nute burn. i only gave a few drops every gallon. watered with nutes and water once a day.idk if i ought to flush them...the new growth is green just the old first set of leaves are turning lime green. some of them have this weard deformed canoeing effect. read it might be heat stress so i raised my lights an inch and put the fan closer. hope this helps
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
Are you calling that Rubbermaid a "table"? .. I'm a little confused.

Anyways, I'm guessing that you want to flood the res, then drain? Its a little difficult to tell how your setup works from the pics. If you want to flower them soon, I wouldn't go transplanting into anything fancy. How about just a larger pot and hand water? and do what you planned next time around.
yes the res is a 27 gal and the rubbermaid is a 57 gal flood+drain. its in flowering right now! ill update in a few days.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
is that cotton u r growing it in? my hempy seedlings are finally growing. but the first true leaves of most of them are start to turn lime green. hope its not nute burn. i only gave a few drops every gallon. watered with nutes and water once a day.idk if i ought to flush them...the new growth is green just the old first set of leaves are turning lime green. some of them have this weard deformed canoeing effect. read it might be heat stress so i raised my lights an inch and put the fan closer. hope this helps
I detailed the medium in previous posts.

Rule of thumb seedlings/clones:Less is more.
Be easy with the fan like you did with the lights.

Sounds like the canoe effect is do to over transpiration of the leaf.The tips are not crisping,or has super dark leaves so prob no over ferting.As long you have,and what you put in has a PH near 6 then I would bump up nutes gently to fight yellowing.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
One of fav parts of growin' for myself are the byproducts.

Well what to do with 1 1/4oz of larf bud??? Take it and a little more sugar leaf and fill the extractor. Yesterday the weather was perfect, cool with a 10+ mph wind N to S (at the back of my extracting seat) a couple cans of butane and kaboom its done.

A little tane still in the pan, evap is slow when its cool out. Oil 001riu.jpgOil 002riu.jpg
99.5% of the butane gone, I like the oil lines left as the tane evaps. Oil 003riu.jpgOil 007riu.jpg

Like most other things I finish my oil differently than most. I've heated whipped, beat, purged and abused as most do. I've learned that all the tane will leave the oil if given the proper amount of time. I've also found out that if you keep the temps below 70 during the whole process that there are so many other flavors and buzz factors left in the oil by not evaporating off all the lower temp terp's

Ever wondered why your room stinks more at Higher temps.......many aroma terp's evap at 80 degrees.

And Happy Birthday to me!
 

smoothness

Active Member
day17 -2.jpgday 17 -1.jpg

just got a new real sun systems cfl. croplight 44. t5 4ft. 4 bulbs of 6500k. its already day 17 just got my money in. waiting for plants to be big enough to put into 7 gallon trash bins and under a 1000w light to veg. got 5 very good seedlings that have good potential for mothers, but hey this early who knows. got a ph meter finally. but didnt get calibration solution. so i just got the reading to 6.5 and hope its close enough. the hydro guy which is a close friend to me since middle school gave me a free bag of hydrolite. he said its a mixture of perlite and verm. anyone got any idea what it really is? hes only charging me 15 bucks for a bag next time. might get it down to ten. is my seedlings looking good for day 17? the light is a little bit warmer than my old ghetto lights. i move the fan closer to cool the light since the hood is low. hope its not gonna cause over transpiration again. any advice is appreciated. thanks.
 

stoneslacker

Well-Known Member
I really need to find out about this mapito. Moebius did you say it looked like a mix of coco fiber and rockwool? I use a mix of coarse and fine perlite and really like it, but would like to experiment and see if something works better.

Here is my 250w stealth scrog day 50 of flower. At least 2 weeks probably longer to go yet.


 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
View attachment 2378479View attachment 2378480

just got a new real sun systems cfl. croplight 44. t5 4ft. 4 bulbs of 6500k. its already day 17 just got my money in. waiting for plants to be big enough to put into 7 gallon trash bins and under a 1000w light to veg. got 5 very good seedlings that have good potential for mothers, but hey this early who knows. got a ph meter finally. but didnt get calibration solution. so i just got the reading to 6.5 and hope its close enough. the hydro guy which is a close friend to me since middle school gave me a free bag of hydrolite. he said its a mixture of perlite and verm. anyone got any idea what it really is? hes only charging me 15 bucks for a bag next time. might get it down to ten. is my seedlings looking good for day 17? the light is a little bit warmer than my old ghetto lights. i move the fan closer to cool the light since the hood is low. hope its not gonna cause over transpiration again. any advice is appreciated. thanks.
Looks good to me.Keep reading,and fact checking.Be one with the plant,or just have an eye for health.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Here are a couple of Dynafem "Sweet Deep Grapefruits" that went 49" tall in 2gal hempy buckets of coco coir. Sativa dom they were...8oz dried. Pardon the yellow leaves during final flush.
DSC02369.jpgDSC02362.jpgDSC02360.jpgDSC02365.jpg
 

georgyboy

Active Member
Hey guys I can't upload any pictures right now but I am having some minor problems in my closet. I'm like 5 weeks 12/12 now and a few plants are having necrosis pop up. One plant has little brown spots on the larger fan leaves. One plant has tiny burn marks at the tip of each leaf. One plant is very light green compared to the rest and has some lighter gold/yellow spots. I have kept the nutes at half strength. I have never flushed. Do I need to step up the nutes or give my girls a good flush. I use 1/4 tsp each of dyna-gro pro-tekt, grow, bloom, magpro, and Superthrive per gallon of water. I have started replacing the 1/4 tsp of grow with an extra 1/4 tsp of bloom on every other watering. I just don't want the problem areas to spread through out the entire plant, or the entire grow. My grow has been so easy and trouble free so far and all my plants have stayed green and perky. Also temps have hit 86-88 a couple of times in the past week, but I really don't think that is the issue. I also let the pots get too dry one time last week.
 

stoneslacker

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I can't upload any pictures right now but I am having some minor problems in my closet. I'm like 5 weeks 12/12 now and a few plants are having necrosis pop up. One plant has little brown spots on the larger fan leaves. One plant has tiny burn marks at the tip of each leaf. One plant is very light green compared to the rest and has some lighter gold/yellow spots. I have kept the nutes at half strength. I have never flushed. Do I need to step up the nutes or give my girls a good flush. I use 1/4 tsp each of dyna-gro pro-tekt, grow, bloom, magpro, and Superthrive per gallon of water. I have started replacing the 1/4 tsp of grow with an extra 1/4 tsp of bloom on every other watering. I just don't want the problem areas to spread through out the entire plant, or the entire grow. My grow has been so easy and trouble free so far and all my plants have stayed green and perky. Also temps have hit 86-88 a couple of times in the past week, but I really don't think that is the issue. I also let the pots get too dry one time last week.
I burnt the hell out of my 2, but 9 times out of 10 it's nitrogen that burns. Once I went to an aggressive bloom mix things evened out. I also upped my ph to 6.1 which I think really helped. I had little problems my previous grow at 5.8 but this round definitely wanted a higher ph.
 

Gibb

Member
Stoneslacker that scrog looks really, really nice. Definitely getting a couple ounces at least.
 

smoothness

Active Member
1 2 3 4

okay there is the story. most of my plants were healthy before i got my new cfl 4ft lamp. its a very strong cfl light but its really warm under the heat. i think i had it 2 inches above the seedlings and overnight it might have heatstressed some of my plants. i saw that the plants that had this problem were the ones in the back and mostly the ones in the middle that have this heat stressed problem. notice picture number 1 and 2 the droop and bear claw. it cant be overatering cause its perlite hempy and you cant overwater a hempy. i know its not nute burn caause my other plants have healthy. especially the ones that were in front where the fan was blowing.

pic number 3 is of another plant where u can see deep ridges on the veins of the plant. the plant isnt crisp yet but its kind of grainy not soft like the healthy plants. it was also in the middle.

pic number 4 is of a healthy plant i had in front. so what do u think may be the solution for this? i have 6.5 ph water mixed with dynagro grow and root excelurator in there. will it get better now that i raised the lights to 3-4 inches above the plants? please help.
 

georgyboy

Active Member
I burnt the hell out of my 2, but 9 times out of 10 it's nitrogen that burns. Once I went to an aggressive bloom mix things evened out. I also upped my ph to 6.1 which I think really helped. I had little problems my previous grow at 5.8 but this round definitely wanted a higher ph.
Thanks man. At the beginning of the grow I was very strict about hitting 5.8. I have gotten a lot more lax about it and am happy anywhere from 5.8-6.2 now. If I were still as strict I would go for exactly 6.0 every time but I mix 3 individual gallons per watering and it just takes too long to be that exact some times. I think excess phosphorous tends to just build up, where as the nitrogen is more readily available to the plant and causes it to over consume and burn up like that. What do you think about the "grow" which is 7-9-5 and the "bloom" which is 3-12-6? how would you be using them through flower?
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
After the stretch is over (2-4 wks most strains) less N is needed (hence grow/bloom N ratios).Very dark green leaves is N toxicity.slightly higher of 6 PH in flower is ok.

Be carefull when chasing deficiencies in a plant when it is in late flower for that particular strain.It could be grower error or the plant doin what it does.Keep up a healthy enviroment,and a reduction in nute strength in days leading up to known harvest is good.

A Hempy plant will benefit from a res reset to be safe than sorry.

Take room temp PH 6 water (6 PH being important),and flood the zones above drain hole (plug drain hole with finger if needed).Smell the run off.If the run off has any foul smell,and you are running a sterile res?Then you have root rot.If no smell then repeat a upper zone flood with with nuted water (less strength if over nuted is suspected).The plant will benefit from more than one upper zone flooding with PH'ed water if build up of precipitates is the problem.

Simple/cheap root rot cure for a sterile Hempy res.Reset res with a mixed equal volume of PH'ed water,and 3% over the counter Hydrogen Peroxide.Plug drain hole,and let solution flood as much of above drain hole as possible for a minute then let drain.If needed repeat.This also helps with nute robbing light leak Algae growth.

I also use 1-2 drops (pipette drops not cap drops) of regular bleach per gal of nute solution for regular maintenence.Let 30 minutes go by before using a bleach treated nute solution,and note that going more than 2 drops per gal of bleach is more risk in harming plant.

Please note that for general maintenance I will put a couple capfulls of 3% to my hand feed cup,I mostly rely on bleach.The 50/50 water/3% provides an instant aerobic enviroment to fight backpathogens. A thourough flush once in awhile will be a preventive measure to avoid this unless medium is heated,and stagnat.

Using organics,and bennies can be done in Hempy,but do a search,and see for yourself.Sterile res,and readily available to the plant hydro nutes for me.

I hear people say bad chems in over the counter 3%
hydrogen peroxide H2O2.I am still searching for bad chems.From what I can understand the low dilution needs stabilisers to keep the extra Oxygen atom in solution.The stabilisers are PH buffers that maintain near nuetral PH.These buffers are chems that we use to make foods,and pharmaceutical products.Sulfuric acid
is a DIY PH down,a plant nutrient (just do not apply undiluted),and a popular stabiliser.The others help certain styles of dough rise,and stuff like that from what I can find.Some health nuts drink it.They drink a dilution of food grade 35% because the stabilisers in 3% will upset your stomach.When in doubt,get the 35%,and Google popular dosages for Hydro.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
1 2 3 4

okay there is the story. most of my plants were healthy before i got my new cfl 4ft lamp. its a very strong cfl light but its really warm under the heat. i think i had it 2 inches above the seedlings and overnight it might have heatstressed some of my plants. i saw that the plants that had this problem were the ones in the back and mostly the ones in the middle that have this heat stressed problem. notice picture number 1 and 2 the droop and bear claw. it cant be overatering cause its perlite hempy and you cant overwater a hempy. i know its not nute burn caause my other plants have healthy. especially the ones that were in front where the fan was blowing.

pic number 3 is of another plant where u can see deep ridges on the veins of the plant. the plant isnt crisp yet but its kind of grainy not soft like the healthy plants. it was also in the middle.

pic number 4 is of a healthy plant i had in front. so what do u think may be the solution for this? i have 6.5 ph water mixed with dynagro grow and root excelurator in there. will it get better now that i raised the lights to 3-4 inches above the plants? please help.
Looks like a little overwatering,and a whole lot of worrying.
 
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