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Underground Dream Garden (Construction and Troubleshooting)

Discussion in 'Grow Room Design & Setup' started by psychadelibud, Dec 2, 2017.

  1.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    I am definitely venting the room. I have the option to recirclate fresh air directly from outside or from the lung room which would also be pulling some fresh air through as well.

    I bought an 80 pint dehumidifier tonight for a pretty penny that has a pump drain on it and I can run this hose outside and not have to worry about dumping the water.

    I also grabbed some R8 6 inch reflectective insulated duct which I switched too from aluminum a couple years ago which I would never use that flimsy ass aluminum ever again. This stuff does not leak, No pin holes, No light comes through, no odor seeps in, and it also reduces heat by fat compared to regular duct that most tend to use.

    Grabbed some 10/2 and 12/2 romex wire for the inside wiring of the grow. Some heavy-duty tarps to put down over the plastic on the floor and gonna find some thin Styrofoam to place on top of all that as well.

    I' gonna have to figure out a good method of venting the room before the weekend
    It is the only thing kinda holding my mind in the dumps as of right now. Everything else is golden.

    I will be running my lights on 240 and all the rest on 120.

    I guess since I have separate rooms the dehumidifier should be placed in the walkway "lung" of the room, right?
     
    Bakersfield and ChaosHunter like this.
  2.  
    Bakersfield

    Bakersfield Well-Known Member

    I'd pop a hole through the masonry and run some stove pipe to make it look like it's a root cellar/smoke house and vent out it.
     
  3.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    Is the reason your building the wall to seperate the flower rooms because you cant run all (4) of the lights at one time or because you just want two seperate rooms?
    Because its roughly 9.5 amp per 1000 watts using 120V - so you can run all (4) 1000W's at 240V on a dedicated 25A breaker and still be following the "80% rule" and not lose a wink of sleep about it. If you can open up the area to just one room it would really simplify coming up with a good venting/heating/cooling solution without breaking the bank, getting overly complicated, or counter intuitive.
     
  4.  
    evergreengardener

    evergreengardener Well-Known Member

    hes splitting the room for heat so that lights are on 24hr a day i believe
     
    psychadelibud likes this.
  5.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    Hmmm...Im not sure how one will ever be able to effectively "heat" one room with the other while the light is off? Its either independent environments, or shared environments. Trying to get the cake n eat it too lol
     
    evergreengardener likes this.
  6.  
    evergreengardener

    evergreengardener Well-Known Member

    may be possible somewhat as hes venting into a lung room and intaking through same lung
     
    psychadelibud and HydroRed like this.
  7.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    How do you keep the lung hot and cold at the same time? Both room will require different conditions. The room that the light is on wont require warm air from the lung room like the other room will with its light off. Get what I mean?
     
    evergreengardener likes this.
  8.  
    evergreengardener

    evergreengardener Well-Known Member

    I fully understand what you mean. I also get what hes trying to do by reusing the heat. personally i would heat it during lights out and make one big room and maybe section off a small area for clones/vegging
     
    HydroRed likes this.
  9.  
    evergreengardener

    evergreengardener Well-Known Member

    Something like this 20171207_003408.jpg
     
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  10.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member


    Thats what I'm saying. Buy a little $30 1500W space heater with a built in thermostat. Set it so it keeps the room 10 or so degrees cooler than when the lights are on. Put the heater on a timer so it only comes on when the lights are off. Until the walls are insulated and made with something other than panda film, I feel maintaining temps will be a battle the entire time. Also, if there is a significant difference in temps between each side of that panda film, theres gonna be condensation on the walls (think back of the toilet tank). I'm all about trying to re-use anything I can, and to make my room as efficient as I can within my means so I get it.
    I had drawn something much like that in post #51
     
    evergreengardener likes this.
  11.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    Good morning,

    I already have a separate veg and cloning room that is 12 ft by 10 ft and that one is completely full of T5s. It is about 40 feet away from my flower room, gives me plenty of room for flowering.
     
    Bakersfield likes this.
  12.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    This is really confusing and I'm still open to ideas. I had a lot of people tell me to flip flop the room and split it into two sections for heat share, one room keeping the other warm during lights off and vice versa.

    I see your concern Hydro.

    I have not yet purchased the panda film. Honestly I know I have not mentioned it but I am going to have my studs insulated with insulation board. The 1/2 inch stuff that is reflective on one side and foam on the other. They come in boards and I'm not sure the proper name for it but my uncle used it in his basement it is really good stuff.

    So the wall in the center will have that insulation, the front walls will have that insulation as well. The side and back wall that is concrete I may likely leave it like it is since it is completely drylok'd or maybe throw some Mylar over It, I have a huge roll of thick Mylar from my old room that has never been used. That or I am going to go foam board completey which I will use an adhesive to stick it to the concrete walls.

    Now when you are talking about recirculating hot air and it being too much I could still place an intake on the wall and bring in cool air to mix with the heat and as long as I can dial that mixture into a good temp then it could be done that way. There are two holes in the outside wall already that was obviously added when they built the cellar back in the 90s. They are about 5 and a half foot high, about 3 inches wide and 3 inches tall in diameter and they are one on each side. I can customize those into my plan somehow if needed. I was planning on pulling through one and venting through the one on opposite side of wall.

    Plus this will decrease the sudden spikes in electricity on the 12/12 increment shown on my smart meter records. It would be a steady flow when flipflopping. Could I put a damper on those holes in the wall and put a temperature controlled intake fan on those?That way it will open or close if temps are too hot or too high??

    This should not be this complicating lol.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
    HydroRed likes this.
  13.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    The insulated foam sheets sounds much better, and I get the staggering light schedules now, but I still cant see how you can share heat between the 2 flower rooms and still have independent environmental controls for each room though? If you use the heat from one room to feed into the other room with the lights off to share heat, where is the environmental control with the inlet and exhaust of each room then? Thats what I was referring to by have your cake and eat it too in my previous post.

    The dehu isnt going to be much use in the "lung" with brisk winter air coming from outside through the inlet since the air will be low RH anyways. Your likely gonna want a dehu in the room when the lights are off and the RH in the room starts spiking.
    You have your planning work cut out for you, and I'm interested to see how you get it to work!
     
    psychadelibud likes this.
  14.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    Ok so let's say I don' split the rooms and just run it completely open, I will still have a lung room. How would you do this? I am such a bad learner man, and I hate it. I believe my Lyme disease has something to do with slowing down my capability of learning by reading. Diagrams is what I learn best from.

    Basically, if this was your room, how would you run everything??
     
  15.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    The diagram you made for me is really confusing, I dont see how all that duct is working being back and forth works.
     
  16.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    ok, give me a few min and see if I can make a better sketch
     
  17.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    Ok man thank you, very much!
     
  18.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member

    Something like this:
    Untitled3.jpg
    The black boxes that the fans are plugged into are digital temp controlled outlets CLICK HERE
    This way each room can run independently as well as staggered so that they wont show on your smart meter like you were wanting.

    Get small "single room" space heaters with a fan and a built in thermostat and run them on timers so they only come on when lights are off and if the temp drops lower than you want. I personally use this one for a 9x10 room and its more than enough for supplemental when the lights go off.
    CLICK HERE
     
  19.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    Now this makes more sense to me, thank you for clearing that up. But I will have to run my hoods in a straight line, it would give better coverage if they were straight across rather than side by side so how do I make that change?
     
  20.  
    psychadelibud

    psychadelibud Well-Known Member

    The rooms are 6 ft deep and 8 feet wide
     

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