Discussion in 'Grow Room Design & Setup' started by psychadelibud, Dec 2, 2017.
ok, give me a cpl min to make a new sketch
Thanks again Red, you are a good man!
If you want to man, and if and when you get time, throw me an idea or diagram that shows the way you would do it IF you were to grow openly without separating the two rooms apart and just doing the entire grow together. I still want that walkway and lung room if I chose that route. That would save me on buying another dehumidifier and another heater as well, also less wood, less insulation.
After you get this diagram done you are working on now of course.
if it were mine forget the flipflop for now rethink in the spring,build out the lung room an get growing u have 2 inlets one in lungroom one in grow room exhausted with 6in inline, control temp an rh in lungroom easy! an the foam board on floor wont hold up, maybe just under pots
Split Rooms: (this & $$$ is why I was hinting at simplicity)
Single Room: (ahh...simple and less costly )
To get the best exchange of air and temp control, follow the placement of the filters, inlets exhaust etc like pictured. Everything is pictured in that spot for maximum air exchange and temp control. Keep the filters strapped up to the ceiling and give yourself some extra ducting on the end of the light with the filter so you dont have to worry about moving the filters when you want to adjust the light heights.
damn talk about starter strains thats a hell of a lineup. Wish clones didnt freak me out so much I'm seed only now after having to destroy everything in my room and start from scratch due to a mitey clone. little fuckers are good at hiding and made it thru a clone wash even.
Everyone else seems to say that the temps and all environmental control is located in the lung room. So does this mean I should put my heater and dehu in my lung oom I stead of grow room?
And that main open sketch you made is what I was looking for for an open grow diagram. But the first one is still not situated correctly on the lights. This is what I mean by lights would have to be in a straight line.
See how the lights are side by side instead of front and back in your diagram? If I split the rooms in two I would want my lights the same as you drew them out in your last sketch. Straight across, Not front and back.
Thumper, I want to hear your thoughts on this as well. If you can out your artistic skills to the test, make me a diagram of how you would run it. That way I have several ways to change things up if one does not work out.
I like things simple,r the vents on each side wall or end wall,only reason I say stay away from flipflop is the unknowns of a new space get couple easy runs in learn, I like open hoods for the heat vent lights on as needed,dehuy lights off as needed instead of running elec heat I would put small unvented gas heator in there leave pilot lit heat an co2 cheap
The vents are on the front walls next to the corner of the side walls about a foot from the celing on both ends... Not the ends of each side of room, that would go straight out into the dirt.
Got my insulated 3/4 inch foam reflective boards today. Now just trying to decide to split the room into two still or run it open.
If you have any decent of a fan and use the appropriate cfm, that fan will deplete your lung room in seconds (or 3 times a minute as it should be capable of). You have to heat and exhaust and dehu the rooms themselves.
For the light placement in double room, you mean like this:
Thanks Red, yes that is exactly right on, how the lights will be running like I mentioned in a straight line. I have one guy on another forum telling me to do this-->>>..
I would run open hoods, 8" exhaust in each room, wide open without a filter, into the lung. Large carbon filter and fan in your lung room running 24/7 for scent. Install intake and exhaust in the lung to cool it to your needs, 10" or so exhaust.
I think you will be surprised how well a room like this cools... I have 9x9 rooms built just like yours running 3600watts, no a/c and open hoods. You will need a dehumidifier without a doubt.
I would consider just tossing 4k in the room and flipping now to get your ball rolling...dehum to keep the room warm in lights off and open hoods will decrease humidity during lights on... A small heater if needed. How good is that soil under the gravel? Direct plant with some work might be possible...
But I am definitely not growing directly in that soil, I will use short and squat grow bags...
As for what you recommended me to do, makes perfect sense. It is one of my top ideas along with a couple more, Now I just have to choose. I guess if one does not work out I could always switch to another. But the way this guy explains it is totally different. And he is talking about doing a split/flip flop room.
And I had seen a bottle of insecticide additive to add to any paint or sealant at the hardware store while I was out today. Just read reviews and J would give anything if I would have used that in my mix.
But I plan on bombing the room a couple times before laying the floor and finishing it all up. Mites is something I do not want to fuck with, had some in my veg room back during the spring and they are bitches to get rid of.
Are you able to have 8" and 10" inlets and outlets too? Because you can put a 10" fan on 4" ducting and in the end result your only gonna move 4" of duct worth of air. Jog around the block & try breating through a coffee stirring stick. Thats what you would be doing with that.
The way Im suggesting you set the room up is tried n true, not just a hopeful suggestion. Its almost exactly how I have my current grow rooms set up for the last 2.5 yrs. Only difference is that Im already set up with full R-13 insulation Co2 and an A/C unit for summer grows. I use outside air directly to cool my rooms, lights and for proper room air exchange. I have my exhaust fan on a digital thermostatically controlled outlet (exact same one I linked before). I use outside air 70% of the year and have the option to close my room off to be sealed for A/C in summer or how I have pictured for the cooler months of the year by installing a cap on my inlet and removing the exhaust hose and capping that too. Takes literally 3 min to change over from winter to summer & vice versa. I havent been using a heater in my room either and were at 27*F right now in MI. Relying on the dehu for heat can be tricky. If you are using brisk outside winter air for your rooms, your RH is going to drop. With no RH to be fought, theres no heat supplied from that non-running dehumidifier.
So in the setup you are explaining to me, if I run a fully open room grow instead of splitting, are you saying the thermostatically controlled fan is the fan that' venting through my lights or my other fan. That part confuses me too. How many fans will I need? What cfm?? Also what is the point in me having a "lung room" or anyone else for that matter if it serves no purpose?
Oh and if the heater is inside the grow tent wouldn't it be pointless as the fans will pull it all out as it heats? I understand if the exhaust inline fan inside the room is the one on the controller, then it would only suck out heat when too hot. But how am I supposed to filter out smell if my exhaust fans are Not running 24/7?
I was wondering the same thing about the need for this "lung room"? You seemed to want to incorporate it pretty bad. lol
The thermostatically controlled fan is what blows through the lights cooling them. At the same time that this is exhausting, you will be pulling cool air from outside into your grow room cooling it. Set the thermostat for 78* and when the temp hits 78* the outlet kicks on and makes the fan exhaust the room and cool the lights with the exhausted room air. It will all be filtered before it leaves the room because of the carbon filter on the light.
Your thermostatic controller for the exhaust fan is set to say 80*. You set the thermostat on your heater 10* colder than your thermostatic controller temp so you would set it around 70*. Now you have a 10* buffer between each of them running at the same time wasting heat.
The outlet is digital and can be programmed to function at differing temps at different times. Adjust accordingly for night time temps etc.
not sure how cold its gets at opps local, but once it gets below 20 degree u cant bring that cold air into hot growroom all kinds of problems,thats why folk up north use lungroom to warm the air a bit before it hits the grow room
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