ecsdf1
Active Member
Is this clown still jabbin at me for this? lol
Unconventional Organics
- Thread starter malignant
- Start date
Sincerely420
New Member
Lol IDK. I know it threw me or a loop at the end of the response tho.
You can't throw a high mind a curve ball lol I just realized he was referring to you.
But several google side by sides have confirmed to me that they were worth the investment
$7 is a lot for a pot to a dude like me haha. I like money to much to be waisting it, but I enjoy weed enough to wanna give it every chance I can to thrive indoor
You can't throw a high mind a curve ball lol I just realized he was referring to you.
But several google side by sides have confirmed to me that they were worth the investment
$7 is a lot for a pot to a dude like me haha. I like money to much to be waisting it, but I enjoy weed enough to wanna give it every chance I can to thrive indoor
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
I didn't really buy that explanation about root balls, smart pots, micro herd etc.
Sounds like you may be talking out of your ass again?
But whatever,
Sounds like you may be talking out of your ass again?
But whatever,
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
Quotes taken from 1957 USDA Soil agriculture yearbook.
"microbes are most active in a moist soil. Microbial activity is depressed when a soil is extremely wet or dry. Air is excluded from the soil pore spaces in a wet soil, and lack of air slows decomposition. Although microbial activity is less when soil moisture is low, many microbes remain rather active when soil moisture is below the wilting point for crops."
The microherd can handle the wet/dry,
It sounds like AIR and being able to BREATHE, is a bigger factor in survival.
"microbes are most active in a moist soil. Microbial activity is depressed when a soil is extremely wet or dry. Air is excluded from the soil pore spaces in a wet soil, and lack of air slows decomposition. Although microbial activity is less when soil moisture is low, many microbes remain rather active when soil moisture is below the wilting point for crops."
The microherd can handle the wet/dry,
It sounds like AIR and being able to BREATHE, is a bigger factor in survival.
psychoholic22
Well-Known Member
Can I use maple tree leaves in a tea? I have a bucket that has some leaves in it over the winter well its full of rain water can I just bottle that water up and use it as a tea mix 10:1 with water? Would it really have a effect on the plant like a fertilizer If so what would it's range be 5-5-5 8-10-8 I mean we really won't know for sure but is there a range when making a tea like this? This stuff is like dark dark tea...
Edit : forgot will this be good for budding too?
Edit : forgot will this be good for budding too?
Cann
Well-Known Member
Rising Moon is right that you are straight talking out of your ass...the microbes in your soil can survive on very little moisture. Think of what would happen in nature if the soil biota died with drought. Plants would've died off once and then never came back....have some faith in natural systems!
That being said, here is the science behind it. From Teaming With Microbes:
"Hydroscopic water is a thinner film of water, only a few molecules thick, which, like capillary water, attaches to extremely small soil particles by virtue of electrical properties. This film is so thin that the bonds between water molecules and soil particles are concentrated and extremely hard to break. Roots cannot absorb it, therefore, but this film of water is critical to the ability of many microbes to live and travel. Even when conditions are dry, the soil particulate surface holds some hydroscopic water; it is impossible to remove it from the soil without applying lots of heat and actually boiling it off"
and there you have it...
i use 4.6 gallon airpots and 5 gallon smartpots and i only have to water once every 3 days. there are 5 fans in my room plus an A/C unit and dehumidifier and I run 3000+ watts. you should never have to water your smartpots every day unless you are growing trees out of a 1 gallon lol. not sure where you went wrong....
That being said, here is the science behind it. From Teaming With Microbes:
"Hydroscopic water is a thinner film of water, only a few molecules thick, which, like capillary water, attaches to extremely small soil particles by virtue of electrical properties. This film is so thin that the bonds between water molecules and soil particles are concentrated and extremely hard to break. Roots cannot absorb it, therefore, but this film of water is critical to the ability of many microbes to live and travel. Even when conditions are dry, the soil particulate surface holds some hydroscopic water; it is impossible to remove it from the soil without applying lots of heat and actually boiling it off"
and there you have it...
i use 4.6 gallon airpots and 5 gallon smartpots and i only have to water once every 3 days. there are 5 fans in my room plus an A/C unit and dehumidifier and I run 3000+ watts. you should never have to water your smartpots every day unless you are growing trees out of a 1 gallon lol. not sure where you went wrong....
Sincerely420
New Member
Why maple tree leaves? In what way do you think old wet leaves would add an nutritional value to the soil ecosystem?
Old leaves can be use in a composting for the lead mold...
Seems like it would be pointless to put leaves in a tea off whim but it's possible you know something I don't
ecsdf1
Active Member
ecsdf1
Active Member
32 PRINCIPLES OF SOIL MICROBIOLOGY
numbers, due to the fact that a continued dry period brings about a
phenomenon similar to partial sterilization of the soil and with the first
increase in moisture there is an increase of available organic and in-
organic materials, leading to a rapid increase in bacterial numbers.
Several investigators found larger bacterial numbers in the soil in sum-
mer than in winter, the maximum being reached in July and August.
In the spring of the year, with the increase in soil temperature, there is a
corresponding increase in bacterial numbers. 62 It was suggested, 38
however, that the water content of the soil is the most important factor
bearing upon bacterial numbers: cultivation increases the number by
increasing the water content. Engberding 38 was unable to demonstrate
any influence of temperature upon the numbers of bacteria in mineral
soils. This difference in results may be due to the difference in the
composition of the soil. The numbers of bacteria (and protozoa) were
even found to fluctuate from day to day. 63 Well-marked seasonal
changes in the soil population are superimposed on the daily varia-
tions in numbers. These changes are not directly influenced by tem-
perature or rainfall, but show a similarity to the seasonal fluctuations
recorded for many aquatic organisms.
SELMAN A. WAKSMAN
Associate Professor of Soil Microbiology,
Rutgers University, and Microbiologist of the
New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Stations
http://archive.org/stream/principlesofsoilx00waks/principlesofsoilx00waks_djvu.txt
Canns' response in 5,4,3,2 ......... I'm looking forward to this one brotha. jj
numbers, due to the fact that a continued dry period brings about a
phenomenon similar to partial sterilization of the soil and with the first
increase in moisture there is an increase of available organic and in-
organic materials, leading to a rapid increase in bacterial numbers.
Several investigators found larger bacterial numbers in the soil in sum-
mer than in winter, the maximum being reached in July and August.
In the spring of the year, with the increase in soil temperature, there is a
corresponding increase in bacterial numbers. 62 It was suggested, 38
however, that the water content of the soil is the most important factor
bearing upon bacterial numbers: cultivation increases the number by
increasing the water content. Engberding 38 was unable to demonstrate
any influence of temperature upon the numbers of bacteria in mineral
soils. This difference in results may be due to the difference in the
composition of the soil. The numbers of bacteria (and protozoa) were
even found to fluctuate from day to day. 63 Well-marked seasonal
changes in the soil population are superimposed on the daily varia-
tions in numbers. These changes are not directly influenced by tem-
perature or rainfall, but show a similarity to the seasonal fluctuations
recorded for many aquatic organisms.
SELMAN A. WAKSMAN
Associate Professor of Soil Microbiology,
Rutgers University, and Microbiologist of the
New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Stations
http://archive.org/stream/principlesofsoilx00waks/principlesofsoilx00waks_djvu.txt
Canns' response in 5,4,3,2 ......... I'm looking forward to this one brotha. jj
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
I didn't quote any peer reviewed paper. I quoted from a book, about soil, written by farmers, about basic facts, Get a life bro.
Who else wants to put this clown on ignore...?
And get back to the discussion, based on facts, established by experimental results or ancient knowledge.
Who else wants to put this clown on ignore...?
And get back to the discussion, based on facts, established by experimental results or ancient knowledge.
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
Once again, did you even read what you copied/pasted...? we can all google a couple terms and copy and paste just about anything. But you are arguing against people who actually have experience with plants, and therefore, understand the topic they are discussing, it seems like you have lots of opinions, but not much experience or knowledge to back it up.
And, if your going to copy and paste, make sure its at least readable, not all jumbled up with random numbers thrown in for good measure. The bold trick was good, but I actually read the fine print as well...
And, if your going to copy and paste, make sure its at least readable, not all jumbled up with random numbers thrown in for good measure. The bold trick was good, but I actually read the fine print as well...
Cann
Well-Known Member
lol yeah looked like a quick google and c/p to me as well...
i'm with you on the ignore situation. bye bye ecsdf1...its been fun. go clog up some other thread with your childish behavior. and stop taking everything so damn personally lmao...sheesh
much easier on the eyes
i'm with you on the ignore situation. bye bye ecsdf1...its been fun. go clog up some other thread with your childish behavior. and stop taking everything so damn personally lmao...sheesh
- [h=2]This message is hidden because ecsdf1 is on your ignore list.[/h]
much easier on the eyes
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
Back to the topic...
Has anyone heard of, or tried putting a 1 inch layer of crushed granite/oyster shells at the bottom of smart pots to increase air flow? Now the floor is the only place I get circling roots, so I came up with this idea, probably from somewhere else ...
I've got an experiment running now. Jack Herer and Cheesequake with the rocks on the bottom, Jack Herer and Cheesequake without.
So far, I like what I see from the "with rocks" pots.
But is it worth the extra weight/expense? I shall see. My compost pile will be loving this mineral rich soil when I'm all done growing my plants and feed it back.
Has anyone heard of, or tried putting a 1 inch layer of crushed granite/oyster shells at the bottom of smart pots to increase air flow? Now the floor is the only place I get circling roots, so I came up with this idea, probably from somewhere else ...
I've got an experiment running now. Jack Herer and Cheesequake with the rocks on the bottom, Jack Herer and Cheesequake without.
So far, I like what I see from the "with rocks" pots.
But is it worth the extra weight/expense? I shall see. My compost pile will be loving this mineral rich soil when I'm all done growing my plants and feed it back.
Sincerely420
New Member
It's common if you ask me RM. I've read/seen a lot of different places of different growers put medium sized rocks in the bottom of the soil to increase drainage...
IDK about granite dust tho or anything fine because it can turn to muck. I've seen those hydro rocks used to.
I mix my mineral amendments in from the start like everything else..
But in short, use bigger rocks on the bottom because the fine stuff could settle in together
IDK about granite dust tho or anything fine because it can turn to muck. I've seen those hydro rocks used to.
I mix my mineral amendments in from the start like everything else..
But in short, use bigger rocks on the bottom because the fine stuff could settle in together
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
Cool. I knew I had heard of others doing this, but wanted to see if some of the people in this thread are doing it as well.
I guess I should have been more specific about what I am using as well. Its crushed granite and crushed oyster shells from the farm supply/feed store(marketed as grit for chickens) It's not really dusty, more like little chunks and stones.
I guess I should have been more specific about what I am using as well. Its crushed granite and crushed oyster shells from the farm supply/feed store(marketed as grit for chickens) It's not really dusty, more like little chunks and stones.
Sincerely420
New Member
Crushed Oyster shell is also used as a liming agent bro so you might wanna be careful with that.
I'd so do it with rocks of chunky perlite. I have perlite in the bottom of my grow bags(only the big 3)and haven't had an issue.
But do a quick Google search and you'll see what I mean in regards to the Oyster Shell....Perlite has no cation exhange capacity as far as I know so it doesn't hold anything in any runoff of nutritional val