Top leaves curling
- Thread starter CPT. Kush
- Start date
eyerguy
New Member
A little more info would definitely help narrow down the origin of the problem But an easy ideal situation would be to get a small fan pointed up at them towards the light, slow the water feeding and concentrate on a good high potassium and potash fertilizer for a couple weeks. (I have found that great circulation and occasional misting allows me to keep my 3x 100w HPS lamps around 6-9" safely at 83 degrees.
) They will look gorgeous in a week or so. I'm subbed if you keep us updated 4 sure.
) They will look gorgeous in a week or so. I'm subbed if you keep us updated 4 sure.
eyerguy
New Member
A really cheap readily available product is any store bought fertilizer advertised as a bloom enhancer 15-30-15 would be awesome. You can find one at any Wal-Mart or Homedepot for around 4$usd. They may also have an organic alternative but I have seen amazing results using MG or Peters. 
The results will amaze you. Bets of luck M8.
[URL=http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/eyerguy/cd09c210d1d608249b96917fcd3ff411.jpg]
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The results will amaze you. Bets of luck M8.
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mattisreal420
Well-Known Member
not sure what it could be, could be a multitude of things, but in my opinion if i was you i would space your watering cycle further apart, so the roots can get an abudent amount of oxygen, try watering like every 3 or 4 days - 6 or 7.
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
Just a thought here- I know the conventional wisdom is that closer is better when it comes to lights, but I've noticed that 400w HID's can cause some heat related problems when they are less then 20" from my plants. It doesn't feel too hot (i.e. it passes the hand test), but moving the lights to about 22" has usually fixed the problem within a day or two. Don't get me wrong- I think your plants have some nute related stress going on too, but I'd be willing to bet backing off on the light will fix at least some of your problems.
Just a note on nutes- I'm not a big fan of any kind of bloom food thats got a super high P level, because they are pushing buds at the expense of healthy leaves. You really want something thats got a higher N level to keep your leaves healthy, since they produce 90% of the energy the plant uses to build buds. You might want to check out Uncle Bens gardening tips thread over in the advanced cultivation section. It's a long ass read, but it's well worth the effort if you really want to learn a lot about nutrients balances and how to keep your plants healthy in general. Riddle also has a couple of really good threads over on the newcomers board that go into nutes pretty heavy.
Just a note on nutes- I'm not a big fan of any kind of bloom food thats got a super high P level, because they are pushing buds at the expense of healthy leaves. You really want something thats got a higher N level to keep your leaves healthy, since they produce 90% of the energy the plant uses to build buds. You might want to check out Uncle Bens gardening tips thread over in the advanced cultivation section. It's a long ass read, but it's well worth the effort if you really want to learn a lot about nutrients balances and how to keep your plants healthy in general. Riddle also has a couple of really good threads over on the newcomers board that go into nutes pretty heavy.
CdnBud
Well-Known Member
Check your PH. What kind of medium are you using?
If you are NOT using a time released medium, then flush (3 times pot size) and only start nutes at half strength.
When you water, water until water leeches out the bottom of the pot.You should only be watering twice a week.
When feeding your girls, after you mix the nutes, ph the solution before you give it to the plant(s)
feed once a week.
Hope this helps
If you are NOT using a time released medium, then flush (3 times pot size) and only start nutes at half strength.
When you water, water until water leeches out the bottom of the pot.You should only be watering twice a week.
When feeding your girls, after you mix the nutes, ph the solution before you give it to the plant(s)
feed once a week.
Hope this helps
below0
Active Member
Are those peat moss pots inside the soil? If so give them a tug and see if they come out completely, sometimes those things take forever to decompose, maybe part of the problem with not enough space for roots, I usually rip them apart while they are moist/wet when transplanting any plant
irishstaff
Active Member
If i was you then i would try and stay away from Miricle Grow , I would try and get nutes like Peters 20,20,20 or Chempak 12.5,25,25 ,.
Saying that , some people sware by MG and some people hate the stuff . Just be careful with it and only give 1/4 strenth to start off with .
Saying that , some people sware by MG and some people hate the stuff . Just be careful with it and only give 1/4 strenth to start off with .
irishstaff
Active Member
i wouldnt transplant if your in flower as it will strees the plants out
Brick Top
New Member
If you have to use Miracle Grow fertilizers then for flower you do want to use Bloom Booster and for veg you want to use the Tomato formula. I would suggest something like Fox Farms Grow Big for veg and Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom for flower rather than the Miracle Grow products but thats just a suggestion so pay little heed to it if you like.
The leaf curl looks like the claw. I am sure if you do a search here for the claw you will find information about causes and fixes and you can also Google it, mentioning marijuana too in the search, and find information about causes and fixes.
Brick Top
New Member
Your leaf curl might be a pH problem caused by having used peat moss pots. Not all peat moss pots are alike. pH is of course a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a substance. The pH of different types of peat range from a very acid 3.6 to slightly alkaline 7.5. Two terms are used to describe the pH of peat. Low lime peats have a pH value below 5.0. These peats are usually calcium deficient. High lime peats have a pH above 5.0 and are usually calcium sufficient.
Depending on what type of peat your peat moss pots were made of your plants might have been living in conditions of a major pH imbalance.
When it comes to repotting I do not like to do it once in flower but at times you have to. The best thing is to plan correctly and plan ahead so you do not have to repot while in flower.
If you need to repot, regardless of being in flower or not, here are a few helpful tips. If dealing with tiny/small peat moss pots that can be cut/pealed/pulled away from the root-ball in bits if needed the tips will not apply. For other repotting they are handy to know. It basically begins when one first begins to plan a grow but still it will cover other part and situations during a grow that involve repotting.
For future reference .. when you repot follow the following steps.
　
Select the pot size you will be transplanting into. (I suggest growing in nothing smaller than 5-gallon pots, though in some cases I will say a 4-gallon pot will work .... in some cases.) and I normally use 7-gallon pots and I start out my plants in them and never repot.)
　
Allow the soil in the pot(s) your plant(s) is/are in to dry out and slightly pull away from the sides of the pot.
　
(The following applies if you are right handed. If not reverse the hand position/use instructions)
　
Partially fill your new larger pot with quality soil so when you insert your plant into the new pot and fill in around the rootball the top of the soil will be at the correct/current level.
　
Pick up your old pot with your left hand.
　
Place your right hand on top of the soil with the main stem between your first and second fingers.
　
Gently tap the edge of the pot on a countertop or a workbench or something similar. The entire rootball should slide out in one piece, possibly with a slight amount of soil loss, but no damage to or loss of roots unless the plant was so root-bound that the roots had grown through the drain holes. If that is the case clip them first or cut the pots opening them up enough for the roots to easily pull through without damage.
　
You plant and rootball are then securely held in your right hand. Inspect the rootball and if it is tightly packed/twisted/root-bound slightly score/cut the edges of the rootball and also slightly score/cut the bottom of the rootball. If you do not score the rootsball the roots will want to continue to follow their circling pattern and their growth progression both down and to the sides into the fresh wider and deeper soil will be much slower. Each cut root will push out new roots and they will go both out and down into the new soil.
　
Place the plant into the new pot.
　
If the surface level of the old rootball is to low or two high remove some soil or add additional soil.
　
Next fill in around the edges between the rootball and the sides of the larger pot.
　
Water thoroughly to cause the soil to settle without compressing it too much by packing it down by hand. If needed add additional soil and water again.
　
Normally plants will undergo very little to no shock when transplanted in this manner but it would not be an injudicious thing to do to use a product like SuperThrive or something with the same general properties because they will reduce plant stress helping them to overcome it quicker and easier. Skip the SuperThrive part if transplanting/repotting while in flower. SuperThrive makes flowers last longer by slowing down the entire flowering process. If given SuperThrive while in flower it will lengthen the total flowering time because it will slow down bud/flower growth/progress in the plants just as it will in ornamental plants.
　
Good luck!