PUKKA BUD
Well-Known Member
Yeh a total moron!...do you know him?
The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread
- Thread starter jberry
- Start date
del66666
Well-Known Member
you must be reading something my mrs wrote...........
cheddar1985
Well-Known Member
Haha del always the way how u doin bro?!!
del66666
Well-Known Member
been a long time since ive had to listen to a bitches crap...........yeah not to bad mate ..... just having a toke of big bomb and looking forward to having some lemon skunk .... be ready soon.......hows all with you ?
cheddar1985
Well-Known Member
Trimmin all weekend bro so cant complain really!! Wot you think of 12/12 from rooted clones bro would you give em a few day to settle in or crack on with it thinking of doin it this next round to get 1 in for crimbo!!
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
Canna rocks, fuck trimming
del66666
Well-Known Member
think there are some peeps doing clones 12-12 on my thread at the moment.........id probably give em a week
puffenuff
Well-Known Member
Yup, good to start feeding. Just like you said, start out light then increase nutes as they get bigger. If you have some rhizotonic go ahead and use a small amount of that now too.
mantiszn
Well-Known Member
hey all ..
when mixing canna nutes how long is necessary to let the water and nutrient mix sit for before use?
the guide i have says let it sit for 24 hours.. i'm trying to figure out if this is for the water (to evaporate chlorine etc..)... or for the mix? or both i guess
thanks in advance
when mixing canna nutes how long is necessary to let the water and nutrient mix sit for before use?
the guide i have says let it sit for 24 hours.. i'm trying to figure out if this is for the water (to evaporate chlorine etc..)... or for the mix? or both i guess
thanks in advance
I was told by a rep to let it stand for a minimum of 1 hour to give the buffers time to react then adjust ph. He told me that doing any stabalizing earlier than this can create ph swings. I use to adjust my reservoir within 10 minutes and played hell with my ph going up. Now, I make a batch of nutrients 24 hours before I plan on adjusting the ph. On days that I add/subtract ingredients I will do my mix 20 hours early and give myself 4 hours to adjust. I find that this has helped me in regards of plant health and time efficiency. Hope this helps
thatgreenstuff
Member
What do you guys think about my nute recipe? Im doing coco and canna nutes for the first time.
1st week of flower-
200ppm filtered starting tap water.
Canna coco a+b 10ml gallon
silica blast 4ml
cal mag plus 4ml
liquid karma 8ml
hydroplex (0-10-6) at 3ml
GH rapid start 1ml
Im also going to start adding cannazyme at 8ml gal
Let me know what you guys think, and maybe what I should add or take away going into the rest of flower. Thanks TGS
1st week of flower-
200ppm filtered starting tap water.
Canna coco a+b 10ml gallon
silica blast 4ml
cal mag plus 4ml
liquid karma 8ml
hydroplex (0-10-6) at 3ml
GH rapid start 1ml
Im also going to start adding cannazyme at 8ml gal
Let me know what you guys think, and maybe what I should add or take away going into the rest of flower. Thanks TGS
Hello Canna Man, or jberry watever your called, was wondering if you could help me out, i have just switched from 18/6 to 12/12 on my first grow, I have started on canna a & b only and they have done me ok so far, been running at 3 ml a litre as I dont want to over nute as I suspected I did a little at the start. I am now pretty skint and can only really afford the pk13/14. Am I going to run into problems just using a & b for the flowering until I use pk 13/ 14 later on, for about a week? i really cant afford the boost... was thinking about using the big bud booster as its bit cheaper and really good apparently. what do you think.
i am using coco plus, 4 plants just changed light cycle tonight. any info would be sweet thanks
i am using coco plus, 4 plants just changed light cycle tonight. any info would be sweet thanks
What's up RIU? I don't post much do to personal reasons but I do believe in helping with good info. Been running a new set up and additives with great results and a stable ph at 5.8 without having to adjust throughout feeding. My line up consists of (flowering)
This I how I mix my nutes to get a 5.8 without use of up/down
15 gal res of ro
2.5 tbls cal/mag plus (200 ppm)
3 teaspoon roots excelurator (first 3 weeks of flower)
2 tbls bud candy
3 tablespoon bloombastic / sliding scale with base nutes And bloombastic as flowering progresses
8 tbls canna boost
8 tbls canna a/b
This gets me to right around 1250 ppm. Subtract the start of my RO at 200 ppm that leaves 1050 ppm of nutes. The bloombastic at this level adds 200 ppm leaving about 800 ppm coming from your base which puts you right into the additive zone you want of 20-30% of your overall ppms belonging to your additives. I do NOT use an air stone as both canna and house and garden recommend a circulating system on a timer. I set my timer to circulate my res for 15 minutes every 1.5 hours. This provides enough air to the mix with out speeding the life like of your micros. I'm not saying this is the best line up but it's simple and highly effective. Some will say its carb over kill or price over kill but rather than reading numbers, witness through experience. After the first 2 weeks of flowering you will have such sugary, sticky and smelly nugs you will be searching for the best prices on line for the line up. I have also used humboldt roots with amazing results. If you have any questions or need a link on the best price I've found just ask. Happy growing!!!
I should add that I hand feed with 10-20% run-off depending on stage in 3 gal smart pots. Flush after 4 weeks of bloombastic use with a mild nutrient solution....around 200 ppm ... I start bloombastic 1 week after actual flowering begins at 1 tsp per 3 gallons and slowly increase until I max out around week 5.
This I how I mix my nutes to get a 5.8 without use of up/down
15 gal res of ro
2.5 tbls cal/mag plus (200 ppm)
3 teaspoon roots excelurator (first 3 weeks of flower)
2 tbls bud candy
3 tablespoon bloombastic / sliding scale with base nutes And bloombastic as flowering progresses
8 tbls canna boost
8 tbls canna a/b
This gets me to right around 1250 ppm. Subtract the start of my RO at 200 ppm that leaves 1050 ppm of nutes. The bloombastic at this level adds 200 ppm leaving about 800 ppm coming from your base which puts you right into the additive zone you want of 20-30% of your overall ppms belonging to your additives. I do NOT use an air stone as both canna and house and garden recommend a circulating system on a timer. I set my timer to circulate my res for 15 minutes every 1.5 hours. This provides enough air to the mix with out speeding the life like of your micros. I'm not saying this is the best line up but it's simple and highly effective. Some will say its carb over kill or price over kill but rather than reading numbers, witness through experience. After the first 2 weeks of flowering you will have such sugary, sticky and smelly nugs you will be searching for the best prices on line for the line up. I have also used humboldt roots with amazing results. If you have any questions or need a link on the best price I've found just ask. Happy growing!!!
I should add that I hand feed with 10-20% run-off depending on stage in 3 gal smart pots. Flush after 4 weeks of bloombastic use with a mild nutrient solution....around 200 ppm ... I start bloombastic 1 week after actual flowering begins at 1 tsp per 3 gallons and slowly increase until I max out around week 5.
You can run just the pk along with a and b. It will harden up your nugs. Bud candy is cheap and effective and can be used along with the pk to bring out more resins, smells and flavor etc.... I would invest, if you can, into a small bottle of cannazyme. If you did burn your plants you probably have dead root matter that COULD cause problems within your coco. Use the cannazyme every other week and it will help break down your damaged roots into a form of beneficial "waste" for your plants. Just remember that canna has formulated these nutes for tap water around the 200 ppm range. Once you hit flowering you need to make sure you are at that range. If you're using RO and adding cal/ mag you have to add the cal/mag first or you will cause nute lockout out. Hope this helps without causing much confusion.
CornHarvest
Active Member
Im still alive. If you are reading this then you probably are too.
I checked back in here because ive run out of things to learn FROM, this forum was a huge 'boost'.
Mantis ur question jumped out at me because i spent a ton of time trying to figure that one out myself, bear in mind I consider myself a student not a teacher, and not an expert.
For the longest time I would leave buckets and buckets of standing water that i lugged around, because i wasnt sure how long it took for the chlorine to evaporate, i think 24 hours is safe, 48 is much better if possible......THEN add the nutrients,(if you add the nutes right away there may be a chemical reaction with the stuff that you want to evaporate). I did notice that 24 hour-old tap water next to new tap water smells much less chlorinated. Probly varies by region.
When i finally got an RO filter i was actually PISSED at myself for not getting it earlier. The results were instant. Along with the expulsion of chlorine, using filtered water comes with the Cal/Mag additive to replace the good stuff that was in the tap. The main benefit there is the way Calcium is taken in by the plant, calcium is already the biggest essential nutrient, meaning it moves much slower through the plant. out of the tap youre gonna get an enormous Calcium Carbonate molecule, which the plant will have to break down slowing the process even more...Its like 20mph tractors taking up all 4 lanes of the highway, all the other nutes get blocked behind it and they wanna get to work! The supplement will use Calcium Nitrate, much more plant friendly and instead of tractors, now the Cal only takes up one lane of the highway and is more like a bus because it acts as a carrier for other nutes as well. in my opinion having seen the change(Calcium deficiencies are the most difficult to detect), no room should be without a filter, you will thank yourself. good luck sir.
I checked back in here because ive run out of things to learn FROM, this forum was a huge 'boost'.
Mantis ur question jumped out at me because i spent a ton of time trying to figure that one out myself, bear in mind I consider myself a student not a teacher, and not an expert.
For the longest time I would leave buckets and buckets of standing water that i lugged around, because i wasnt sure how long it took for the chlorine to evaporate, i think 24 hours is safe, 48 is much better if possible......THEN add the nutrients,(if you add the nutes right away there may be a chemical reaction with the stuff that you want to evaporate). I did notice that 24 hour-old tap water next to new tap water smells much less chlorinated. Probly varies by region.
When i finally got an RO filter i was actually PISSED at myself for not getting it earlier. The results were instant. Along with the expulsion of chlorine, using filtered water comes with the Cal/Mag additive to replace the good stuff that was in the tap. The main benefit there is the way Calcium is taken in by the plant, calcium is already the biggest essential nutrient, meaning it moves much slower through the plant. out of the tap youre gonna get an enormous Calcium Carbonate molecule, which the plant will have to break down slowing the process even more...Its like 20mph tractors taking up all 4 lanes of the highway, all the other nutes get blocked behind it and they wanna get to work! The supplement will use Calcium Nitrate, much more plant friendly and instead of tractors, now the Cal only takes up one lane of the highway and is more like a bus because it acts as a carrier for other nutes as well. in my opinion having seen the change(Calcium deficiencies are the most difficult to detect), no room should be without a filter, you will thank yourself. good luck sir.
CornHarvest
Active Member
Reason i jumped on is to see how many times you people have re-used coco successfully? i started two, then three, ive been recycling it for maybe 6-7 cycles now, no problems at all...If anything the USED coco comes back stronger because of the heavy colony of innoculant that builds up(if you try this do NOT flush the plant or you'll wash away all that beautiful trichderma and mycorrizae)......i use CZM with every feeding, every stage(6ml/gal)....i dunno, i see no reason to haul them big ass bags around if it works just fine/better to recycle. Canna says up to three times but i think theyre being modest.
Also, Cmon, someone help me out....I see that BBastic is finally getting some love and I know Canna is working hard to get more additives to the market, but their "quality over quantity" modus operandi doesnt pay the bills in my neck, Ive been impressed with CHA-CHING,in last 4 weeks, especially for the price, generally unimpressed so far with H/G SHOOTING POWDER,
So im down to CCHING vs. BBASTIC for that final push through the closing weeks. Any thoughts? Honestly i believe BBastic's growing popularity has to do more with its user-friendly-ness, as there are many many casual farmers out there and BB is basically idiot-proof. But I get just as many tomatoes with foxfarm's ching, and its cheap as dirt by comparison(just watch that Ph). Any feedback or critisisms welcome, if i write something that doesnt look right, please call me on it, im here to learn/pass on knowledge. we dont have a resident dickhead in this forum, which is nice,tho I havent got many responses, usually just post the question and then three pages later i'll answer myself. Thanks, me. I'm welcome. So until canna "fills in the holes" to maximize production, would anyone like to share?(i'll write back to me in a few pages surely, but would love additional input) -Love, me
Also, Cmon, someone help me out....I see that BBastic is finally getting some love and I know Canna is working hard to get more additives to the market, but their "quality over quantity" modus operandi doesnt pay the bills in my neck, Ive been impressed with CHA-CHING,in last 4 weeks, especially for the price, generally unimpressed so far with H/G SHOOTING POWDER,
So im down to CCHING vs. BBASTIC for that final push through the closing weeks. Any thoughts? Honestly i believe BBastic's growing popularity has to do more with its user-friendly-ness, as there are many many casual farmers out there and BB is basically idiot-proof. But I get just as many tomatoes with foxfarm's ching, and its cheap as dirt by comparison(just watch that Ph). Any feedback or critisisms welcome, if i write something that doesnt look right, please call me on it, im here to learn/pass on knowledge. we dont have a resident dickhead in this forum, which is nice,tho I havent got many responses, usually just post the question and then three pages later i'll answer myself. Thanks, me. I'm welcome. So until canna "fills in the holes" to maximize production, would anyone like to share?(i'll write back to me in a few pages surely, but would love additional input) -Love, me