Subcools supersoil-no density

Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
Btw i take no credit for the recipe of the substrate. I believe it came from a YouTube video. I will vouch for it though (well, with what little soil knowledge I have, take that as a grain of salt)
 
puffntuff

puffntuff

Well-Known Member
Its a watering issue for sure. Also your next run will be much better as the nutrients have been broken down more. I reamend after 2 runs. I did 3 runs and the yield was horrid lol
 
Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
puffntuff said:
Its a watering issue for sure. Also your next run will be much better as the nutrients have been broken down more. I reamend after 2 runs. I did 3 runs and the yield was horrid lol
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I had kinda started to notice that the rounds behind it was looking better, but the one behind that looks really good. I composts the soil for 60 days originally.
 
puffntuff

puffntuff

Well-Known Member
I cook the soil for 2-4 months because I make so much of it at a time. I don't use subs recipe I made my own with the help from my local nursery.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
I use the same brand name "mykos" for my mychrizeaa substrate. Since it start from the proper "strain" of mychrizeaa then end result will b the same "strain". I did loose one to green mold, but that's a whole different story... Fill a small Tupperware container with ewc. Put a cup of organic oatmeal per gallon of soil. Add one tablespoon mykos per gallon of soil. Close lid and keep in a warm dark place. In a week you will have a giant ball of mychrizeaa. I did a side by side with the homemade vs store bought and homemade won hands down. There was almost no transplant shock. Plant with homemade were more vigorous all the way through.
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nice! good information right there, sort of like a bokashi for your mychorizhae
 
Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
So after talking to a biochemist, he was not liking or agreeing with most of the ingredients in super soil (or the majority of the soil mixes I showed him). I will get the exact things and why he didn't agree with them. But the gist of the conversation was barely any of the additive we ever be available even if the soil is composted for 6 months. He said Clackamass Cootz recipe was the best of the three (subcools,the revs and Cootz) but still said there were some thing that won't be available. More information coming on that.
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
So after talking to a biochemist, he was not liking or agreeing with most of the ingredients in super soil (or the majority of the soil mixes I showed him). I will get the exact things and why he didn't agree with them. But the gist of the conversation was barely any of the additive we ever be available even if the soil is composted for 6 months. He said Clackamass Cootz recipe was the best of the three (subcools,the revs and Cootz) but still said there were some thing that won't be available. More information coming on that.
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He's correct concerning the mineral package (rock dusts, green sand, etc) but I disagree with him regarding the meals. Those are bio available after a decent "cook", and need to be replenished on subsequent runs.

Did you tell him that the cootz recipe is intended to be recycled for a year or longer?
 
Carolina Dream'n

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
He's correct concerning the mineral package (rock dusts, green sand, etc) but I disagree with him regarding the meals. Those are bio available after a decent "cook", and need to be replenished on subsequent runs.

Did you tell him that the cootz recipe is intended to be recycled for a year or longer?
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Agreed about the meals. I should have included that he just didn't like bat quano, blood and bone meal. Said their are better (less disgusting) meals that would do better... Not that they would be unavailable. He said the revs mix was an absolute joke. I'll get a recipe from him that he would recommend. Let's see if his 4 year education matches what you educated organic growers probably already know.
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
Agreed about the meals. I should have included that he just didn't like bat quano, blood and bone meal. Said their are better (less disgusting) meals that would do better... Not that they would be unavailable. He said the revs mix was an absolute joke. I'll get a recipe from him that he would recommend. Let's see if his 4 year education matches what you educated organic growers probably already know.
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I'm no expert, but I'd say he's spot on with what he's telling you. Gunaos, blood meal, bone meal, etc. No need for any of that IMO.

A *quality source of compost, ample aeration bits, generous amount of minerals, kelp meal, neem seed meal, crab shell meal, and alfalfa meal should have the bases covered.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Carolina Dream'n said:
Agreed about the meals. I should have included that he just didn't like bat quano, blood and bone meal. Said their are better (less disgusting) meals that would do better... Not that they would be unavailable. He said the revs mix was an absolute joke. I'll get a recipe from him that he would recommend. Let's see if his 4 year education matches what you educated organic growers probably already know.
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I always say that guano, blood meal, and bone meal (bovine) could be left out of any grow, I used to love guano, in fact I still have three diff bags from yrs ago.
Blood meal is too damn hot and too damn water soluble, and bone meal? Well, i'm personally freaked out about mad cow disease, and the fact that it takes 25 yrs to show itself...
Hell i'm a hop skip and a jump away from veganics (although the concept is annoying to me for some reason, seems elitist)
Course i'm NEVER going to stop using my own worm castings, probably the most important ingredient I have, in my opinion.
And crab meal, and my new insect "mashings"... yeah, veganics is kinda lame...
 
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Moishe

Moishe

Active Member
greasemonkeymann said:
it works well, and if I may add, I love to sprinkle a layer of mychorrizae on the surface prior to adding the moss, and by the time I harvest it's like a green toupee for the plant, and the roots have grown through the moss in a nice white fuzzy way
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Got any pictures?
 
E

earthling420

Well-Known Member
Hey greasemonkeyman, im following some of your advice on building a soil. Is there a difference in greensand formulation numbers. For instance theres this espoma one with a 0-0-.1 and a down to earth one with a 0-0-3 formulation. What are your thoughts? and also what kind of basalt should i get? thanks and happy growing
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
earthling420 said:
Hey greasemonkeyman, im following some of your advice on building a soil. Is there a difference in greensand formulation numbers. For instance theres this espoma one with a 0-0-.1 and a down to earth one with a 0-0-3 formulation. What are your thoughts? and also what kind of basalt should i get? thanks and happy growing
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Not sure to be honest, as far as the greensand differences, I like down to earth personally.
as far as basalt, you can ask @Pattahabi I know he uses it consistently
 
H

HayStax

Active Member
I water 6 gallons of soil with just over 1/2 gallon every 3rd day, and get about 1-4 oz. Of runoff with each watering. I never see wilting unless the plants were veggies longer than 8 weeks and get too big, then watering may go to every other day for the last 4 weeks of flower. Drying the top 2 to three inches of soil before each watering seems to be crucial. I feel you might see better results watering about 10% of your pots volume every third day rather than 5% every day.
 
E

earthling420

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
Sure, i'd be happy to, in fact, I have the time i'll share a couple recipes that I've used with success.
I like the mix to be roughly a 33% peat or coco, 33% worm castings or compost (I like a 50/50 mix of homemade worm castings and compost), and 33% aeration, for aeration I like volcanic rock, pumice, and biochar, don't have biochar account for more than 50% of your aeration.
the amendments I use I add one cup per cubic foot of soil mix.
one cup of each of the following
neem meal, crab meal, kelp meal, and I love insect frass. In lieu of insect frass I also have great results using rabbit manure, or alpaca manure.
also minerals, if you are planning on re-using your soil, i'd recommend a mixture of slow release minerals and normal water soluble ones. Greensand, azomite, glacial rock dust, basalt, rock phosphates.
two to four cups of minerals per cubic foot.
The other recipe is kind of a lazy way, but effective just the same
depending on how much soil you need, get four bags of premixed soil (organic) and add
one quarter cup of each of the listed amendments above. and add a bale of promix on top of it for your aeration and peat, a lil easier.
and even easier
Go buy vermifire, and add a quarter cup of the listed amendments and then add 25% compost or worm castings to the mix.
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how much insect frass do you use and how do you use it? I have read many different results with it and would like to know your experience. What kind of results? thanks man
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
earthling420 said:
how much insect frass do you use and how do you use it? I have read many different results with it and would like to know your experience. What kind of results? thanks man
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for insect FRASS use, talk to the dons @DonTesla know the best.
I have used it in the past, but my new thing is insect MEAL, where I got a bucket of chicken feed and mashed it all up for the chitin, all it was is crickets and mealworms all dried up, I crunched em down and it's been in my aging soil for almost a month.
For insect frass I use a cup per cubic foot of soil (un-amended) for established soils or bagged soils (premixed) i'd add no more than a 1/4 cup per cubic foot, depending on whats in the soil already of course.
I haven't tried the insect meal yet, its still aging in my soil but I can't wait to see what it can do
I have tried the insect frass though, it works well, like all my amendments though its hard to see which is really doing what, because I have a broad variety of nutrients.
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
earthling420 said:
how much insect frass do you use and how do you use it? I have read many different results with it and would like to know your experience. What kind of results? thanks man
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MonkeyMan covered the amending quite well i think, that covers the pro-active way, you just add 'er dry and mix. (They say it last about 3 weeks and helps rooting). Myco and Frass work well together, you can also apply to roots at transplant apparently but haven't tried this.

As for post mixing solutions, with plant in soil, you got 3 basic options:

1. sprinkle on topsoil and work/water in. takes bit longer, but lasts a lot longer (5 to 10 days, about 3 waterings).
(I use less than recc'd, you can always do more often)

2. soak it for 8 hours in RO h2o. fast results.
(stirring it here and there)

3. add it to your AACT. fast results.
(this ways not my favourite but i like to add it 1hr before my 36 hour tea is done)

amounts, i like to go the less is more style. ~Tsp per plant vs TBSP. Can always repeat whenever you like.

I like number 1 and 2 best, to treat each plant separately, as well. i.e., tsp to this one litre, tsp to this one litre, etc. Cause that way you don't get concentrations of it, its both light and heavy and not water soluble, so your mixture can have strength variances. and since its not good to stir a AACT vigourously or mist them out of bottle with sharp 90* turns, (they are very sensitive) i prefer to separate now.

Results:
SERIOUS PRAYING
Strong Auto-Immune responses
Recovery/Decrease in pests
Increase in Growth spurts
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
MonkeyMan covered the amending quite well i think, that covers the pro-active way, you just add 'er dry and mix. (They say it last about 3 weeks and helps rooting). Myco and Frass work well together, you can also apply to roots at transplant apparently but haven't tried this.

As for post mixing solutions, with plant in soil, you got 3 basic options:

1. sprinkle on topsoil and work/water in. takes bit longer, but lasts a lot longer (5 to 10 days, about 3 waterings).
(I use less than recc'd, you can always do more often)

2. soak it for 8 hours in RO h2o. fast results.
(stirring it here and there)

3. add it to your AACT. fast results.
(this ways not my favourite but i like to add it 1hr before my 36 hour tea is done)

amounts, i like to go the less is more style. ~Tsp per plant vs TBSP. Can always repeat whenever you like.

I like number 1 and 2 best, to treat each plant separately, as well. i.e., tsp to this one litre, tsp to this one litre, etc. Cause that way you don't get concentrations of it, its both light and heavy and not water soluble, so your mixture can have strength variances. and since its not good to stir a AACT vigourously or mist them out of bottle with sharp 90* turns, (they are very sensitive) i prefer to separate now.

Results:
SERIOUS PRAYING
Strong Auto-Immune responses
Recovery/Decrease in pests
Increase in Growth spurts
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damn good info there, and especially the part where you recommend only a TSP vs a TBSP
you can ALWAYS add, and never subtract... sorta like the "measure twice, cut once" rule
 
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