Talking garden lime which is dolomite lime which is fine grade and 50% passes through a fine 150mn sieve, this is then futher pestle and mortared down by me to the finest powder i can get.
I am sorry for the confusion but surely you are confused, all reactions with lime and soil take place as soon as it gets wet! The fact that one lime takes longer to work than another is merely the observations of when the lime has reacted enough to actually hold or shift the pH in the soil! All lime start it chemical reactions straight away, some is faster and some is slower, surface area has somthing to do with it as well.
Do you think lime just sits there for a month and then thinks hey i will randomly start a chemical reaction now that i have been sitting in wet soil for a month! No it starts as soon as soil and water is mixed with it, you just dont technically see it working till enough of these reactions have built up to counteract the pH. Think max pointed this out before but hey maybe you were too busy reading the copy and paste sections!lol!
I personally see my fine powdered dolomitic lime work straight away but after a lot of research and some very keen members input i realise that this is only the calcium and not the magnesium which reacts so quick, hence i am still left with a mag deficiency even with the lime(fine powdered dolomite).
Tell me garden lime takes a while to work but mine works over night if i powder it, the fact that i still have magnesium deficiencies correlates to the scientific knowledge availabe on google, which i will not copy and paste, but which states that in dolomitic lime calcium is released quite quickly but the magnesium part of it is released more slower.
This thread is mainly for the peat growers and those with new pH/ec pens like me. Hoped this has helped a little and this thread must be close to being finished, i and others have found it informative and a real eye opener to some of the more technical issues surrounding soil growing. Any more input before we kill the thread?