polo the don
Well-Known Member
I have one strain, TijuanaOriginalHaze, that I use foliage pro on start to finish. If I withhold N, aka use bloom nutes, she goes crazy and starts foxtailing.
Side by Side by Side - help me pick nute #2 & #3
- Thread starter nomofatum
- Start date
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
Because you forget that you have 5 res's insead of 4 and the water level dops, lol.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Just the essentials, everything a cannabis plants needs to thrive. I'm actually using it in combination with GH floraduo bloom to skew the ratio a little during flowering. I don't know the micros ratio, could look up the NPK but it probably differs a little per soil/coco/hydro/aquaflakes. Contains 11% Ca and - if I remember correctly - 1.6% Mg. Should work nicely with your water (similar ppm and contents as mine).
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
I guess I consider the dry version of KoolBloom just a part of the Maxi-series, we aren't talking about the more common liquid version, they are quite different.
Aeroknow
Well-Known Member
Koolbloom powder isn't part of the maxi-series.
The maxi-series is a very complete 1 part grow and bloom formulas.
liquid koolbloom is a joke, just like AN's bigbud.
Koolbloom powder is a pk boost. Unnecessary, but fun to experiment with it once in a while with new strains, IMO.
With that said, I don't ever use it anylonger.
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nomofatum
Well-Known Member
Either way it's part of my base system I normally use, and will be my baseline. It's 1/2 teaspoon
How about this, if I use KoolBloom, I will use it on all of them.
Experienced growers say "nutes are nutes, there's no difference in N and N." If that's true, it seems like all you're going to test is the NPK ratios of each product. Wouldn't it be easier to workout the NPK ratios of each product (using info on the label) and compare those ratios side-by-side using the same fertilizer products (mixed to get those NPKs)?
The only flaw I can think of in that reasoning is that NPK printed on the label is a minimum guarantee, not actual NPK content.
I guess I don't understand why radish growers don't spend countless hours comparing products. It seems like it has to do with how there aren't 100 competing products for radish grower dollars. It seems like comparing products validates the perception there's something significantly different about them other than their NPK ratios(?).
The only flaw I can think of in that reasoning is that NPK printed on the label is a minimum guarantee, not actual NPK content.
I guess I don't understand why radish growers don't spend countless hours comparing products. It seems like it has to do with how there aren't 100 competing products for radish grower dollars. It seems like comparing products validates the perception there's something significantly different about them other than their NPK ratios(?).
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
Judging hydro nutes by just NPK is like buying a camera just by the megapixels or a stun gun by the voltage. Just FYI, voltage means nothing on stun guns (amps do), and megapixels mean far less than the lens and sensor quality.
I will submit to your 6 million volt stun gun if you feel what my 25k volt stun gun feels like. I won't dare hit myself with the 25k stun gun, the 6 million volt ones hurt, but won't make you bite your tongue off.
It's more about getting the mix right to have reasonable NPK + all the minerals the plant needs in available forms. The available forms part is the hard part and why we aren't all measuring mg of pure powders out to make our own mixes. If we tried, we would have horrible nute lockout problems for a while until we figured it out.
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For hydro, what's an example of "available forms?"
I understand urea and worm castings, blood meal, etc., require some breakdown to be made available. I thought hydro was a little more direct and used more elemental forms?
nomofatum
Well-Known Member
Those "more elemental forms" are also more reactive. At high PH iron will bond to other elements, and low PH iron will break it's bond. Well add too much calcium and you would have to go even lower PH to get the iron out. These individual nutes/chemicals/minerals don't prefer to stay individual, they like to connect. The science and art of nutrients is getting them to behave with each-other so one doesn't block the other too much and everything is available as a reasonable level at a reasonable PH. This is also why I don't like people who use a bunch of bottle from a bunch of makers. If one sends you crap, he could have blocked everything. If you measure wrong, you create nutrient lockout. 1 part dry nutrients seem like the ideal to reduce this, and why I originally choose the Maxi-Series.
With all that said, we animals adapted to move to survive, plants and especially weeds adapted to change their environment through chemistry to survive. If you notice your PH start to swing wildly after first signs of a deficiency, don't correct it too fast, think first. If it's heading down, and looks iron deficient, the plant may be doing what it can to get iron, pushing acids into the soil/water to make it accessible.
For the above reasons I don't lock down a PH like some do, I wouldn't want a system to keep it exactly at 6.0 or whatever is consider ideal for your strain/nutes. If 6.0 is ideal I want my res to start at 6.0, but then slowly drift back and forth through the range from 5.5 to 6.5. Basically this lets half the week be awesome for high PH nutes, half the week be awesome for low PH nutes, and the rest of the time right in the middle at a happy medium. Plants are never lacking anything for long enough to waste energy trying to change it's environment.
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nomofatum
Well-Known Member
The Sour D seedling is putting me in awe, amazing how fast it's growing. I planted it 1.5 weeks ahead of the other two, it looks like it's a month ahead. I could take 30+ cutting off of it, and it's just over 3 weeks old. What do you have to do to ensure the metadata is stripped from a picture you post?