Reverse Osmosis system in my home ???

DaBeatGoezOn

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone at RIU:)

Anyways, been reading up alot of information and learned that a good water system to have is a reverse osmosis system, its sopposed to reduce the ppm in water .

I was in my kitchen and looked over and saw a system hooked up but dont really know if this is the real deal! can u guys tel me what this system is?

Also, whats the best water to give to marijuana plants? ive read u can give them tap water , just let it sit for 24 hours to evaporate the chlorine.

what do u have to adjust with reverse osmisis systems anyways for a soil grow?



Cheers :)
 

Attachments

bgmike8

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone at RIU:)

Anyways, been reading up alot of information and learned that a good water system to have is a reverse osmosis system, its sopposed to reduce the ppm in water .

I was in my kitchen and looked over and saw a system hooked up but dont really know if this is the real deal! can u guys tel me what this system is?

Also, whats the best water to give to marijuana plants? ive read u can give them tap water , just let it sit for 24 hours to evaporate the chlorine.

what do u have to adjust with reverse osmisis systems anyways for a soil grow?



Cheers :)
that looks like a reverse osmosis that i have seen on tv. but you need a ppm and ph tester anyway. so if you check the ppm and there is close to 0 ppm it is probably functioning properly.

water for your plants need to have the proper ph. slightly acidic. i think 5.5 to 6.2 is good but you should read up on it because i am still a rookie.
 

DaBeatGoezOn

Well-Known Member
The less ppm the better i guess? i thought plants needed like 500 -600 ppm in their water? by adding nutrients i guess the ppm wil raise right? im scared that
if i water my plants with this water it might not be enough to make em big. can someone clear my confusion plz?
 

bgmike8

Well-Known Member
dude, i know 10 times more than you and i still have to ask questions. you really need to read up on the subject.
http://www.quicktrading.com/growbooks.html

here are some good books. plus you can just search the internet. the info is out there.

you have to start out with low ppm of a good grow nutrient. then as the plants get bigger they can take more nutrients. if you give too much they will burn.
 

DaBeatGoezOn

Well-Known Member
dude, i know 10 times more than you and i still have to ask questions. you really need to read up on the subject.
http://www.quicktrading.com/growbooks.html

here are some good books. plus you can just search the internet. the info is out there.

you have to start out with low ppm of a good grow nutrient. then as the plants get bigger they can take more nutrients. if you give too much they will burn.
ohhh okk !! now i get that term nutrient burn!! thx man makes alot more sense!!!
 

Canido

Member
Reverse osmosis will drop the Chlorine, heavy metal and mineral content of your tap water to almost nothing
Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, iron, copper , manganese, cobalt, boron , molybdomen, sulfur will also be removed.

This is good if the tap water is high in Chlorine, Sodium, and undesirable salts , and bad because these chemicals are needed

If using RO with hydroponics, with inert media such as rockwool, some minerals need to be added to the water to achieve the proper balance.
Often hydroponic nutrient blends, assume you will be using average tap water, and these blends are not boosted to the mineral level needed with RO water . So after analysing the nutrient formula you use, you may wish to add Cal/ Mag or some source of minerals.
For example: tap water at 500 ppm Total disolved solids(TDS) , can be reduced to 15 to 20 ppm with R.O..
A mineral suppliment that raises the TDS up to 100- 200 ppm,, with the desirable minerals, would be a benefit.

A nutrient formulation may suggest 1200 ppm is a good concentration for their formula.
With tap water at 600 ppm in disolved solids , that would mean only 600 ppm of the nutrient formula is necessary.
If you are using RO water at 20 ppm , then to obtain a TDS meter reading of 1200 ppm , you would need to add 1180 ppm of the nutrient formula. That is 2x as much nutrient fertilizer as the average tap water user is putting on the plants.

In the vegetative phase , you possibly could show a mixture of mineral deficiencies. Even though the nutrient(N P K) levels were sufficient , without enough minerals, the nutrient fertilizer is not metabolised efficiently. You could easily be overfertilizing and still show deficiencies of some nutrients , and nutrient burns caused by other nutrients building up.

Most people would try :
1. flushing - you remove more minerals, possibly compounding the problem,
2. Add more nutrient fertilizer - you fertilize more , you get nutrient burn.
3. Foliar feeding - If you think you have a leaf burn now, try a little foliar, it will cook em good.
Save this for later when the plant has cleaned out its salts.

If you have been using a Heavy Nutrient Feeding schedule, then as the plants go deeper into bloom
The nutrient uptake will be slower , and everything can worsen.

Flushing, using any of the standard methods, should be considered , It may stress the plant out for a day or two, but removing the high concentration of fertilizer is the initial step.
Follow the flushing with a balanced mineral and nutrient concentration between 700 ppm and 800 ppm .
Stay with 800 ppm feedings until the end. These plants have been damaged, many are not capable of using high-fert concentrations. If you push them , they won't respond very well .
The next crop will be much better


Even if you have supplied a good balanced mineral suppliment, If you Go by a TDS of 1200 ppm , there will continue to be over fertilization burns, and deficiency symptoms
Because with reverse-osmosis, you are not carrying the extra Salt load (300 ppm to 500 ppm)
So subtract that salt from the 1200 ppm

With reverse osmosis use a mineral suppliment , most all nutrient companies now have such a thing, and then only bring the nutriemt conentration up tp 800 ppm or so, while in bloom.
You can go higher during vegetative.
Raise the levels slowly , if you see the need, but do not jump from 800 ppm to 1200 ppm in one day, plants take time to manage such large changes

Common Symptoms are a mix of deficiency and over feeding , yellowing of oldest leaves,, purple petioles and stems, brown spotting between the veins of many leaves.

Servere deficiency of some minerals affect the growing tops , they will darken and die, which destroys the plant.

Moderatete to severe problem, the plants will not grow, or grows slowly , reducing the yield of flowers tops.

Adding Epsom Salts Mg2 - SO4 will help, but is not the entire answer. there may still be a problem of mineral inbalance, that willl appear sooner than later;.

For these complex deficiencies a visual analysis of the stem and leaves, is not reliable enough.
There is too much overlap of symptoms , to say that it is undoubtably this or that imbalance.
You can see the lack of magnesium, and Iron, Calcium not as apparent. THe browning iof the leaves is a chemical burn ,
The yellowing of older leaves is so common to many plant nutrition problems

A diagnosis can be made , with soil analysis and plant material analysis for minerals and nutrients, Very few growers will feel the urge to send some weed in for analysis.

If using R.O. add a mineral suppliment, and reduce the concentration of the nutrient formula used , especially during bloom.
The R.O. water is pure and without all the undesirable salts , found in most tap water ,
RO plants have a smoother smoke,
They grow extremely well , but it takes some extra reading, daily monitoring, and a better understanding of the plants needs.
Actually you need to be familiar with the minerals, so when you purchase , minerals, you will have confidence in your decision.

The best pictures and description of these nutrient problems, that I have seen are right here on Roll it up

Yes, you will want to set the proper pH of the Watering solution, at all times, whether Flushing, feeding , rooting, sprouting .

If using a soil mix , instead of inert hydroponic media, there is a built in buffering system, and compensation, that will mask the water's mineral deficiency for a considerable length of time.
 

Canido

Member
Reverse Osmosis system in my home ???

permalink

Hey everyone at RIU:smile:

Anyways, been reading up alot of information and learned that a good water system to have is a reverse osmosis system, its sopposed to reduce the ppm in water .

I was in my kitchen and looked over and saw a system hooked up but dont really know if this is the real deal! can u guys tel me what this system is?

Also, whats the best water to give to marijuana plants? ive read u can give them tap water , just let it sit for 24 hours to evaporate the chlorine.

what do u have to adjust with reverse osmisis systems anyways for a soil grow?



Cheers :smile:


Attached Thumbnails
It looks like two sediment filters , on the right
The Blue canister, on the left , probably contains the RO membrane filter.
These RO systems have to be flushed with a dilute chlorine bleach, with the filters removed, then flushed with tap water.
New sterile filters ($70.00) are then installed. Otherwise the water may develop a nasty funk. The filters last a long long time, Because the water for growing, is slowly drawn every day, that is ideal for keeping the RO membrane in great working order.

So you need a manual on the installation of that particular model.
Most Home RO 's units have a 2 gal storage tank,
That is not enough for the smallest of growers. A float valve and a 30 gallon storage can Tank is a must have .
 

Canido

Member
ohhh okk !!
now i get that term nutrient burn!!
thx man makes alot more sense!!!
__________________

ROFLMAO
that is funnnnnyyy, "Nutrient Burn".
hahahaHA
<SNORF>
wittiest remark, I have heard all day.

Cheers
 

Canido

Member
Here are some suggested Mineral + Nutrient Values from Botanicare Cal-Mag plus
(Mineral and nutrient Solution for hydroponics, aeroponics, NFT, soiless mix)

These are the nutrients and marcro minerals , that are removed by RO,
suggested concentrations in RO water, each feeding

Nitrogen (N) 160-250 ppm
Calcium (Ca) 160-250 ppm
Magnesium(Mg) 45 -75 ppm
Iron (Fe) 2-7 ppm
------------------- ---------------------------
total 370-580 ppm * does not include Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K)


Surprising , that N and Ca are needed in the same concentrations .
These then , are also the deficiencies to look for, with RO systems.
They can be spotted easily, If you are aware of what to look for.
The "nutrient burn " is a bit of a catch all diagnosis, but seems, to mostly be this same syndrome
the burn most closely resembles a Mg deficiency.

Over fertilization with Ammonium (NH3) and/or Potassium (K), will , "lock up", make Mg less soluble, and unavailable to the plant. That is why plants can have a deficiency, even though they have ample nutrients.
The Potassium (K) cincentration is pushed way up during bloom, hence the problem often appears after switching to Bloom formulas.
NH3+ , K+, Ca++, Mg+ , Fe++, Na+, H+ With all these Cations(+ charged) elements, it is not surprising they start interfering with each other if the concentration of one is too high.

At a critical concentration , over fertilization takes over
Increase nutrient concentration ===> decreased mineral utilization
Stay at a TDS level , below the precipitation point.

With RO and the lack of buffering salts, small additions of pH up and pH down have a greater effect on the pH ,
However once set, the pH will stabilize

--------------------------------------------------------------------
These are the micro minerals (trace amounts),
Check your nutrient formulation, to be certain they are present.
I Checked on
Dyna-Gro, Dyna-Bloom and
General -Hydro's - Flori-gro ,flori-micro, flori bloom.
They both are very inexpensive and contain the trace minerals

Cobalt (Co)
Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum(Mo)
Copper(Cu)
Boron(B)
Zinc(Zn)
Chlorine(Cl)
Sodium(Na)

The Advantage to Reverse Osmosis Water soon becomes obvious ,
Instead of guessing at "what is in the water", you know exactly what in there.

Although "Water is always water," the salts in city water is not Optimal for plants.

Tap water is supposed to be aged,(at least 24 hours) to release volitile contaminents.
Everyone says , " Oh yeah, I season my water"
But typically it is seasoned for the 10 minutes it takes to mix a batch, and feed the thirsty ladies.
Aging the water does not remove the solids , salts , and much of whatever.

Supplying these minerals and nutrients in Optimal concentrations, Instead of feeding the plants heavily salted water will produce fantastically, good looking weed. It grows fast, can easily be induced to flower, grows large healthy buds , very quickly.
There is no downside, except it takes some restraint, to avoid over-fertilizing.
Strange to be giving less nutrients, and yet get much more lush growth,
The plants will stop declining in health within a few days , then start to improve.
Within 5 days you will be quite pleased with yourself, and well deserved .

For RO water systems, (does not apply to soil, or tap water )
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low TDS 400-500 ppm - yellow leaves, long internodes . and weak stems, barely making it.

Hi TDS 1200-1500 ppm - smallish leaves, leaves are stiff , and look dry and rough like paper, short internodes, small harsh buds , very stony.

Ideal TDS 700 - 1100 ppm - beautiful large lush , soft ,green leaves , healthy stock to support thick , large , dense buds. major resin production.
Noticed a tendency to initiate flowering at the mention of the words " dark cycle " .
"The Pavlov Plant" - ringing a bell , causes plant to photosynthesize

Although flowering is primarily a genetic trait, induced by Photoperiodism.
It is easy to imagine that , a nutritionally healthy plant , will respond , more rapidly and strongly in whatever directiion you wish to move it.
11-12 hours of darkness, and it will have more than a couple of pairs of white stigmata at most nodes , within a week .

It is a well tuned race engine, moving, quick, smooth, quiet.
instead of a choked out , clogged up, sputtering old truck.
I get carried away with Analogies,

You are pushing the technological envelope on plant nutrition, and new discoveries concerning weed growing are sure to come out of this, please post some results ,whether good or bad , it is all for the betterment of getting stoned and growing the best. .
 
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