Reliable ppm chart for marijuana??

Its been awhile since I looked at this thread. You were all right, my plants were fine. But the bit about RO and all this is very useful. I am a little lost when reading the earlier thread about PPM and it being even less. But I am doing some Research now. @OldMedUser Hope the fires toned down over summer. Im in California and it seems to be pretty chill this year so far. Last couple of years were horrendous

I just harvested my first crop, 6 months is a long time, but I have been setting up a sea of green. So now I have mother plants, cloning station and flower room. It is TONS of work, but I do need something to eat up my time, otherwise I would go crazy.

This is ACDC, about 5 weeks into flowering and my wet trim. They got a lot smaller when drying. I was surprised, and sort of sad. I don't think it is true ACDC because it floors me when I smoke it. Im a super light weight though. I am going to get it tested. Just for the record, PacificSeedBank is an awful company. Resin Seeds, the breeders of Cannatonic sent them a cease and desist. Because I was wondering if the seeds they were advertising were really Resin Seeds. And I got an email back from Resin Seeds, which stated " The seeds they are selling, are not ours." Thanks for everything everyone, stoked to be part of this community.

Nice to finally get a crop in isn't it Greez.

Fires were really bad early in the year here in Alberta but we've had a record breaking amount of rain this summer so overall it's been much better.

There's a lot of bogus seeds floating around and way too expensive as well. Not only in cash layout but time invested to find out you didn't get what was expected. Looks like your doing OK.

I got some basically free seeds coming any day now. I'm at 7 weeks flower with one strain from them. A high CBD one called Sebring's Revenge. I ordered more of those and a few other ones like the Auto Fem CBDs for outdoors next year. Shipping for one was only $11.50 so I added 4 more to my order and it went up to $15.50 so nearly free. No charge for the seeds tho and as you are in the states I think shipping may be a few bux cheaper. 15 - 20 seeds in each pack.

https://www.sebringseeds.com/online-store/Free-Seeds-c34356405

I think a lot of people get hung up on the headline figures when it comes to EC, like EC during seedling stage should be 400... I mean that's all well and good, but the breakdown of components that make 400 need to be well balanced, no good having 400 ec if 90% of it is nitrogen. Seedling needs to be around NPK 2 - 1 - 4 Mg 0.5 Ca 1. Humid acid, wetting agents and Silicon are always a good thing to add at normal recommended strengths throughout the grow.

I think the focus needs to be on the balance, then you can slowly turn up the strength depending on how the plant responds. More harm is going to come from over fertilising your ladies as a high EC hinders osmosis at the root zone. Go low, but make sure its balanced. Check EC daily and respond accordingly, EC rises as water level falls, just add water. If they both go down at a consistent rate, you're at the sweet spot, if the EC goes down, make the next batch of nutes a little bit stronger.

If you look at the back of your nutrient bottles, all of these companies that claim to be different, are all the same. They all use the same ingredients, just in varying proportions. Only quantifiable difference between them is marketing and price. I do believe once you have an understanding of what is inside these liquid ferts, the only thing that matters is how you apply them.

Roseman said:

PPM for Hanna Chart PPM


Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

Note: EC Calculations are different, here's a conversion chart :
heres a great chart that shows how different PPM can be from meter to meter... EC is the only real universal language...

Remember to discount the ppm of your water.

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Do these PPMS include the PPM of your water, or ontop of the ppm of your water. (IE: if i wanna feed 600ppm solution, and my water is 300ppm, should it be 900 ppm?)

datshieeet said:

Do these PPMS include the PPM of your water, or ontop of the ppm of your water. (IE: if i wanna feed 600ppm solution, and my water is 300ppm, should it be 900 ppm?)

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PPM is based on 0 ppm water. With a starting ppm of 300 you are throwing the dice re proper feeding but I do it with 200 but I rarely go over 600-700 total in my setup.

Roseman said:

My tap water is `120 ppm, out of the faucet. So if I want a ppm of 720, I set it at 840, so I have 720 of nutes, plus the 120 ppm of the water.

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That's why your over nutrients your plants. Always include the ppm of your soil, not just the water. If you use Foxfarm soil it's ppm is 150ppm -200ppm. So if u are using soil you are giving way to much ppm if you are not subtracting 200ppm

docuM3 said:

That's why your over nutrients your plants. Always include the ppm of your soil, not just the water. If you use Foxfarm soil it's ppm is 150ppm -200ppm. So if u are using soil you are giving way to much ppm if you are not subtracting 200ppm

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just so you know, this post is in the hydro thread. eventually the FF soil will be depleted of nutes so how do you factor that in?

hxvoc said:

I gave up on getting the right mix. Every run I have a deficiency. low, medium, high ppm doesnt matter I consistantly get rust spots on all of my plants. I still get some bud so im just about over it. fuck it I just deal with the rusty ugly looking plants. still seems to smoke ok when its all said and done

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Right your killing your plants because you don't know what you are doing. 99% of people kill there plant and over nutrient and never ever caculate their ppm correct. The ppm isn't what you feed your plant, it's the amount the plant can observe. The rest just sits on the roots and stack up salt. Until you understand the basics you will always struggle. I suggest you go back to the basics and learn how a plant grows. You dont need to know how to grow, you just need to know how not to kill it.

there are no charts for ppm
it will depends of your hyro system, your nutrient line,climate (temperature/rh) ...

for exemple with 2 rooms at 26 degree C, one at 35% rh and the other at 60%
the more humid room will propably need higher ec, because plants transpire less an eat more at high rh

only you can estimate the ec, i start around 2.0 in rockwool
quickly plants will start to eat and you will read different values in the return tank


if the ph goes down .. and the EC climb you need to reduce the EC value of the feed

if the ph stay stable/climb a little bit you're on the right spot.

if the ph climb too much and the EC in the return tank decrease, you need to increase the feed


reading the plants will also tell you if you're in the right ppm zone
they must be healthy green from the bottom to the top, not too dark or too light green