Real Organics

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
I have a couple tricks I like to employ in the last week before chop. I'll show you how I flush the plant out without using the traditional flush, and stop all root/microbial function to force the plant to cannibalize it's stored nutrient.
Should be around 3 weeks from now.
Keep watching-
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I know she looks like shit, but it's actually kinda pretty with all those yellow tips.
Getting closer to chop day. I'm getting pretty excited. She really really stinks now!! Nice and gooey just the way I like em. Zero chance that it's grindable. Scissor bud ONLY.
I think I'll be over my expected 1oz. Not too bad for such a small plantView attachment 3558781View attachment 3558782View attachment 3558783View attachment 3558784
did you notice that was post #420.... how relevant bongsmilie
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Another successful fermented extract.
This one, unlike the other 1L jars, is a full spectrum nutrient. Something like 5-5-5, for example. I recorded the input ingredients and I have a resource for determining the total NPK, Ca,Mg,S and much more in the way of micro too. I'll post later the values.

But in wanted to show the ferment and again how to tell when it's done. Upon visual observation you can see yeast caking the surface. The smell should be sweet but clearly "pickeled" or "fermented". Even if it's not sweet, it's still "fermented". Then a pH test to determine the extraction and fermentation was successful. The ideal pH is 3-4, no more, no less.
1 tbsp/gallon average feeding. Depends on plant size and enviroment. Fermented extracts are more by feel and sight, rather than following an outlined feeding chart.
Filter the finished extract through folded/layered cheese cloth or 150 micron mesh.
Extract is stable and viable and fermentation has ceased. Bottle it up and use within 1 year.
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Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
Ive got a Chernobyl which has shown sex recently and the leaves are taco'ing. Everything else is green and healthy except for this little shit. Gonna feed them coconut water this morning and give her some bsm along with coconut water and if she doesnt correct herself soon then she will see an early grave, fkn weakling. Kind of aggrivates me as everything else is rocking and rolling.
Well I tossed that bitch in the compost bin. Roots were taking hold but plant was on its side this morning. No time for that shit. Next
 

2ANONYMOUS

Well-Known Member
There is no one best single material from a generic crop perspective since different crops have different nutrient needs. So selection of individual amendments such as cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, corn meal, seaweed and/or kelp meal, hay, leaves, grazing animal manures, etc. can be used to meet a variety of plant nutrition objectives. But NONE of such amendments provide ANY DIRECT nutritive effect since roots cannot utilize such, in presented form.

Changing the structure (molecular form) of such amendments, thereby making them accessible to plant roots as a food source is accomplished by means of enzymatic liquification or by microbial decomposition (or both). A combination of human gut enzymes and acids - in liquid form and in proper proportion applied to such amendments in either an aerobic or anaerobic environment, will speed the microbial process. An anaerobic artificial 'digestion' process (such as using Dr. Higa's EM fermentation technology) is sometimes used, but since a crop rhizosphere is an aerobic environment, general consensus recommends aerobic conditions be utilized for best results to eliminate the need for a lengthy anaerobic-to-aerobic microbial re-conversion process.

The difficulty with regard to an aerobic microbial decomposition process is in obtaining a highly-concentrated source of the full soil microbiological community to perform the decomposition process to attain nutrient-cycling - strictly an aerobic process and since the speed and quality of aerobic microbial decomposition depends on the concentration of microbiology applied to the process - the higher a concentration used, the better and faster.

A relatively new breakthrough in advancement of the old "compost tea" technology (that has never been accepted by the scientific community due to its lack of consistency of replication) is called Liquid Microbial Concentrate (LMC) that is capable of producing the full community of aerobic soil microbiology in 24 hours. A 48-hour brew time attains a bacterial / protozoan population, while a 72-hour brew can exceed ten to the 25th power per ml - much higher than the best compost tea was able to produce, and with a very high consistency of replication. Presently being prepared for presentation to the USDA as a viable product for approval for use by the global agricultural industry.

So general consensus nowadays is to increase soil nutrient cycling by means of liquid application, which is less expensive than adding a variety of solid amendments and waiting for in-soil biology to process amendments into plant food.

The humic acids produced by the soil biological community are known to play a part in the nutrient-cycling process, but science does not yet know how to qualify or quantify that process. What we do know is that humic acids play a role in certain aspects such as nutrient retention, mineral chelation, etc. So commonly, when liquid compost is applied, humic and refined fulvic acids are added as Fortifiers.

Soil fertility by organic means is a matter of microbial nutrient cycling (saprophytic process of turning dead organic material into organic matter with an increasing level of amphorous humus content). Adding organic material to soil does not increase soil fertility per se - because it requires that material to be broken down (decomposed) by the full community of saprophytic microorganisms (primarily aerobic) by their enzymatic activity.

There is one COMBINATION of organic materials that is highly effective in raising soil fertility in sand, silt or clay and ANY percentage combination of each, called COMPOST.

Composting is NOT a natural phenomenon - it is a man-created method of speeding-up nature's saprophytic process. A leaf falling from a tree may take up to a year (or more to decompose sufficiently, whereas that same leaf processed in a QUALITY (non-commercial) composting process (which I have practiced professionally for over 50 years) will only take 12-18 weeks to begin adequate nutrient-cycling function.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
There is no one best single material from a generic crop perspective since different crops have different nutrient needs. So selection of individual amendments such as cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, corn meal, seaweed and/or kelp meal, hay, leaves, grazing animal manures, etc. can be used to meet a variety of plant nutrition objectives. But NONE of such amendments provide ANY DIRECT nutritive effect since roots cannot utilize such, in presented form.

Changing the structure (molecular form) of such amendments, thereby making them accessible to plant roots as a food source is accomplished by means of enzymatic liquification or by microbial decomposition (or both). A combination of human gut enzymes and acids - in liquid form and in proper proportion applied to such amendments in either an aerobic or anaerobic environment, will speed the microbial process. An anaerobic artificial 'digestion' process (such as using Dr. Higa's EM fermentation technology) is sometimes used, but since a crop rhizosphere is an aerobic environment, general consensus recommends aerobic conditions be utilized for best results to eliminate the need for a lengthy anaerobic-to-aerobic microbial re-conversion process.

The difficulty with regard to an aerobic microbial decomposition process is in obtaining a highly-concentrated source of the full soil microbiological community to perform the decomposition process to attain nutrient-cycling - strictly an aerobic process and since the speed and quality of aerobic microbial decomposition depends on the concentration of microbiology applied to the process - the higher a concentration used, the better and faster.

A relatively new breakthrough in advancement of the old "compost tea" technology (that has never been accepted by the scientific community due to its lack of consistency of replication) is called Liquid Microbial Concentrate (LMC) that is capable of producing the full community of aerobic soil microbiology in 24 hours. A 48-hour brew time attains a bacterial / protozoan population, while a 72-hour brew can exceed ten to the 25th power per ml - much higher than the best compost tea was able to produce, and with a very high consistency of replication. Presently being prepared for presentation to the USDA as a viable product for approval for use by the global agricultural industry.

So general consensus nowadays is to increase soil nutrient cycling by means of liquid application, which is less expensive than adding a variety of solid amendments and waiting for in-soil biology to process amendments into plant food.

The humic acids produced by the soil biological community are known to play a part in the nutrient-cycling process, but science does not yet know how to qualify or quantify that process. What we do know is that humic acids play a role in certain aspects such as nutrient retention, mineral chelation, etc. So commonly, when liquid compost is applied, humic and refined fulvic acids are added as Fortifiers.

Soil fertility by organic means is a matter of microbial nutrient cycling (saprophytic process of turning dead organic material into organic matter with an increasing level of amphorous humus content). Adding organic material to soil does not increase soil fertility per se - because it requires that material to be broken down (decomposed) by the full community of saprophytic microorganisms (primarily aerobic) by their enzymatic activity.

There is one COMBINATION of organic materials that is highly effective in raising soil fertility in sand, silt or clay and ANY percentage combination of each, called COMPOST.

Composting is NOT a natural phenomenon - it is a man-created method of speeding-up nature's saprophytic process. A leaf falling from a tree may take up to a year (or more to decompose sufficiently, whereas that same leaf processed in a QUALITY (non-commercial) composting process (which I have practiced professionally for over 50 years) will only take 12-18 weeks to begin adequate nutrient-cycling function.
You sound like your an intelligent individual and I applaud you on your 50 years. I don't disagree with you in the slightest in regards to your discretionary position. I know that all organic materials must be decomposed first, rendering them to a cation/anion molecular composition and these are what is made avaiable for uptake.

Bacteria excrete enzymes when they go to work on anything organic, these are also a "trigger" if you will, that awaken and excite more bacteria, thus furthermore increasing the bacterial gram count and consequently hastening the decomposition and nutrient cycling.

I prefer to use a flaculative anerobic process (fermentation) to start the decomposition process. Ferments are shown to retain more nutritive values of the organic material than the later aerobic composting. I essentially am "pre chewing" the materials for the aerobic microbes. Fermented Plant Extracts don't work unless your soil has a good concentration of aerobic microbes already, hence the "microbial loop".

Now, when I make my soils, I add fermented organic food scraps, aka bokashi composting. But that doesnt make up the whole that i call my compost. I use alot of different indigenous plants and weeds that all have their own respective attributes. This is the base compost and only after its fully composted will i add the fermented bokashi compost. I have done side by side comparisons outdoors on my tomatoes with and without bokashi and FPE, and I must say the comparison was hardly fair. I've also cultivated ornamental flowers, ie Casablanca Lilly, and use FPE and LAB (EM1) foliars and the flowers were larger than my head and moreover incredibly fragrant to boot.

I respect everyone's choice to an organic approach and refuse to knock their method of nutrient cycling, but my education, employment and experience has directed me on a different course when it comes to nutrient cycling, availability, as well as microbial diversity in regards to a healthy productive soil. Not to mention that the CEC of all substrate materials will influence the ratio and dictate the compatability/performance of the nutrients used.

Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Not sure. But Im not an overanalyzer either. Nothing apparent though as I said earlier I usually dont waste time on slow goers or weaker plants. Got enough seeds here, I want the strong ones only. Course I dont like losing plants but it happens....
Breaks heart too when I have to cull anything. I've seen your garden and I'd agree with you on the fact, you don't have time to deal with sickly/slow plants. You've got enough to tend too! And like you said, you got plenty more beans, So I'm sure you'll experience chernobyl eventually.
 

Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
Breaks heart too when I have to cull anything. I've seen your garden and I'd agree with you on the fact, you don't have time to deal with sickly/slow plants. You've got enough to tend too! And like you said, you got plenty more beans, So I'm sure you'll experience chernobyl eventually.
Thanks on the compliments. Been growing chernobyl last 3 yrs ;)
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Thanks on the compliments. Been growing chernobyl last 3 yrs ;)
Ahhh, lol. ..derp-
Oh shit, so you already know. I love chernobyl, but in the same breath, sub has some very impressive crosses.

I am envious of the sativas you have going, sadly I don't have room like you do tho. I'd be interested in some beans if ever the chance. I have some Hawaiian Snow and AK48 but that's really the extent of my pure sats. One of these days I'll go for a sole sativa grow, but I'd rather start indoors over winter and finish it outdoors to get the most out of it.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
To add a side note to the "composting", I think other organisms are deserving of notable recognition. The list is far to vast to list off and I don't want to make it too easy for any reader to NOT do their own research. I'm referring to mites, springtails, white worms, nematodes and worms. The microbial loop is far more extensive than just microorganisms, and because of this, I ONLY cold compost.

For example here's 1 of the macros that assist my composting efforts. The adult ORBATID MITE, collohmannia sp.
(Oribatula tibialis ) sellnickochthorius sp1

This is a soil mite that feeds on bacteria, endo and ecto mycorrhizae and decaying organic materials. This is what used to be a fuzzy/moldy red raspberry in my worm farm. The mites digest the above said and then the excrement is consumed my micros and worms, futher enhancing/assisting the nutrient cycling efforts. Digestion via enzymes is a widely relied upon action in organics.
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Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
They look great. In my experience, in this area anyway, when mine get that size they are close to sexxing and also as soon as I up pot from 1 gallons to larger (or any up pot) at that age, they usually show sex asap.
And sure as shit, you were right. I just came up from the room and had a wee peek at the kids. The LSD and both Purple Afgooey are initiating sexual expressions. Not quite sure yet as they are just starting, but im thinking female, just on a hunch. The Grape OG and both aliens are not there yet, which really make me think they too are females, just a little late to show. However males show before females, which is why in still on the fence. But given my environmental influences, im counting on all females. Fingers crossed!
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
I'm out of LAB (EM) serum. It's time make more. But this time I'm using an addittion to the traditional "whole milk". I'm adding 1 pint of heavy whipping cream, as to increase my lactose and dairy fat content. If my research is correct, I'll have a higher gram count than my previous serum.

I'm also adding 1 tbsp of Greek yogurt and keifer smoothie. This brand that I have lists the following:
Lactobacillus Bulgaricus
Streptococcus Thermophilus
Lactobacillus Acidophilus
Lactobacillus Bifidus
Lactobacillus case

I'm splitting the 1/2 gallon & pint into 2 separate fermentation vessels. I'm only adding the yogurt to 1.
I plant to experiment on the 2 serums and see which proliferates. My guess is the one with the Greek yogurt addition, but we'll see.

Shit, I'll even post microscopic pictures. Gonna have to take it to my wife's lab for gram count and subspecie (sp) identification.1449693510321.jpg
 
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