QWISO Why oh WHY??!

There's a picture of an ethanol extraction using co2. You see how it's resinous and rich full melt, that's the biz. Super smooth on a clear paper. The trick is not rolling that bitch to tight and allow a nice air flow to pass. If you don't use a light touch the o roll this joint, you won't be able to really get a hit as the oil can bind the plant matter together so well, no air flow passes or it's just to resinous to smoke.

Rattmannn said:

So have made QWISO now and well did it fast for purest extract. 20 seconds with 99% iso. Quick question before I go further is, the stuff I made melts when out of freezer fast! gets so sticky so quick really really impossible to work with easy so my question is why does it look like other pics of concentrates on here don't look melted??? Did or am I doing something wrong? Read everything and well can't imagine. Can't also imagine why anyone would make it because well it is nasty! and it takes such a set up if you don't just use hot knives to get it to burn. Real nasty and I just can't imagine why make this unless maybe to mix with pg and vape liguid it in a pen. So help me understand what is up thanks..

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Different strokes for different folks.

I have a completely different opinion. If I have a concentrate and it is not oily and sticky I consider it garbage. I do not mean to offend. Just my personal preference. Oily and sticky is the easiest for me to work with. Every way I look at it it is the easiest to work with. It being oily and sticky is the medicinal properties within the cannabis. Removing the oily and sticky removes much of the medicinal properties in many cases, but not all.

If you can get your oily sticky stuff into a syringe or vial I don't see how anything could beat it.

If it is in a syringe it is so easy to get out just a little squirt. In a vial, it is so easy to use a toothpick and scoop out some oil and apply it wherever you desire. You can easily use the toothpick and wipe the oil onto a rolling paper, wipe onto something to do a dab, or easily just put it into your mouth and allow it to dissolve.

Me personally, I wouldn't have it any other way. Excluding QWET or my method, ND Sap, and diluting it with grain alcohol then you can use a dropper that screws onto the same vials that I use.

Just my two cents.

oilmkr420 said:

There's a picture of an ethanol extraction using co2. You see how it's resinous and rich full melt, that's the biz. Super smooth on a clear paper. The trick is not rolling that bitch to tight and allow a nice air flow to pass. If you don't use a light touch the o roll this joint, you won't be able to really get a hit as the oil can bind the plant matter together so well, no air flow passes or it's just to resinous to smoke.

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I rolled a nice one last night and took pictures too. I have not smoked it yet though.

You are right, if it is rolled too tight it can be a problem. My solution to the problem is roll a log, a big fatty! I pretty much roll it as tight as I do for a normal joint and it is super smooth with a nice, slow, even burn. Like an everlasting joint. I have to roll the joint huge for there to be no airflow problem. About the only time I use my big 1-1/4 size Elements.

2 Different naturally decarbed sap oils spread out on the paper. 4 strains ground together in the grinder. At least 1 gram of bud went into this joint. 100% confident it will burn great. Can't count how many I have burned like it already.

Actually, this is just a treat. It is extremely wasteful. The amount of naturally decarbed oil on my rolling paper eaten orally would keep me baked for at least a week if not 2. When smoking it in a joint it is a petty buzz compared to eating the oil, but very fun. I will be smoking this tonight!




If done properly, the product being oily and sticky, it could not be easier, in my opinion.

I usually roll them jailhouse pinners, so I can feel the oil more than the pot. More like a stick of hash oil! Where jailhouse pinners have blunt size highs!

oilmkr420 said:

I usually roll them jailhouse pinners, so I can feel the oil more than the pot. More like a stick of hash oil! Where jailhouse pinners have blunt size highs!

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I can't really say I have ever tried them that way. I have seen pictures of others doing that. Next time I make a hash that happens to come out like putty, I will give that a try.

As you can see, I could not wait until tonight, but I am sure it will last through tonight. They seem to burn forever and are quite potent. I can't taste the strains, all I taste is the oil. I feel the effects of the oil more than the buds. A preferred buzz to me, just wasteful of the oil.

Try the crack pipe w out Brillo. Heat it near red hot then safety pin a dab of oil. In my experience noted that isopropyl doesn't quite reclaim like the extract produced from co2 and ethanol, aka honey oil. Not even ethanol alone does that good a job.

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Grow Goddess said:

I rolled a nice one last night and took pictures too. I have not smoked it yet though.

You are right, if it is rolled too tight it can be a problem. My solution to the problem is roll a log, a big fatty! I pretty much roll it as tight as I do for a normal joint and it is super smooth with a nice, slow, even burn. Like an everlasting joint. I have to roll the joint huge for there to be no airflow problem. About the only time I use my big 1-1/4 size Elements.

2 Different naturally decarbed sap oils spread out on the paper. 4 strains ground together in the grinder. At least 1 gram of bud went into this joint. 100% confident it will burn great. Can't count how many I have burned like it already.

Actually, this is just a treat. It is extremely wasteful. The amount of naturally decarbed oil on my rolling paper eaten orally would keep me baked for at least a week if not 2. When smoking it in a joint it is a petty buzz compared to eating the oil, but very fun. I will be smoking this tonight!
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If done properly, the product being oily and sticky, it could not be easier, in my opinion.

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I do mine in a similar fashion. The big difference is that I press two papers together after oiling one, to spread the oil around into a thin film, so it burns more evenly.

They aren't smooth either. I once had 12 people coughing at the same time.

oilmkr420 said:

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Do you see the funky wax residue isopropyl couldn't dissolve? Acetone does w out leaving a cloudy layer of residue.

I did an isopropyl extraction on a broke pipe and a duct tape bong a friend gave me where only dank was smoked from them, the results were something I called thread grease. It was smokable, but more worthy to seal the threads of my vessels providing lubrication and minimizing contaminates by using something more closely related than vacuum grease.

oilmkr420 said:

Isopropyl alcohol is perhaps the worst solvent to use, even to reclaim previous smoked oil, it fouls up the reclaim portion leaving a funky taste. Since the isopropyl is a denaturing product, it can not be distilled from the alcohol as they boil away at the same temp. Any residues are a denaturing product so it must be fully evaporated from the extract or a nasty almost fishy taste is left behind. Food grade ethanol is way better as any residues are mainly water, leaving a sweeter extract that is more easily purged and residues acceptable. I stay away from iso as it would give your good name a bad reputation.

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Your info on isopropyl alcohol is incorrect. Isopropyl alcohol is not the same as denatured alcohol. Denatured [chemical/compound] means that poisons have been added to something so that if you drank it you wouldn't be able to keep it down. There is nothing wrong with using isopropyl.

Also, to everyone still scraping pyrex: Get yourselves a silicon dish to evap in.

Glaucoma said:

Your info on isopropyl alcohol is incorrect. Isopropyl alcohol is not the same as denatured alcohol. Denatured [chemical/compound] means that poisons have been added to something so that if you drank it you wouldn't be able to keep it down. There is nothing wrong with using isopropyl.

Also, to everyone still scraping pyrex: Get yourselves a silicon dish to evap in.

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Wrong, as most often a 5% methanol and 5% isopropyl combination is used. SD alcohol is special denatured. Isopropyl is a disinfectant and not food grade as ethanol can be. The denatured stuff is shit and zero residues can be left behind and the same for isopropyl. I often spend the $10 for bacarrdi 151 or $20 for everclear or for a gallon of moonshine for $108. Talk to me after using way more acceptable ingredients.

Actually he isn't wrong. Iso alcohol is does not have methanol in it or anything other then Isopropyl and water. I've done washes with 95 % ethanol because it is food grade, and I've tried 99,91,and 70% Iso because they are cheap. The only one that didn't work well was the 705 iso, the other 3 all performed almost identically. Stop spreading false information about what are considered acceptable ingrediants oilmkr.

oilmkr420 said:

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They say a picture speaks a thousand words, and I think this picture you posted says a lot about you. Look that the area you are using/.working in its filthy and disgusting, as are the clothes your wearing. The oil in those dishes looks dark, nasty and contaminated by all kinds of shit.

Really its embaressing, and I think you'd be better off taking some other peoples advice on making oil instead of spreading bad advice. Its things like that that give extractions a bad name. Also before you decide to snap back at me and mouth off, this is what my 91 % ISO extractions look like.......

Where do you get this info from oilmkr? Just curious.
@Thundercat which did you prefer between ethanol and the diff iso's?

I use 91% ISO all the time now, and have been for almost 2 years. They all performed almost identical except the 70% iso which was crap. I cant get the 99% in my state anymore but it didn't perform any better then the 91%. The biggest reason I use the ISO is the price. I typically do 1-2 washes a week, and use about 1.5 quarts of ISO per wash. Using ethanol is A LOT more expensive, and I hate the idea of evaporating perfectly good drinking alcohol into the air. Once the alcohol is evapped there is nothing left anyway, so I don't see the point in worrying if its a food grade solvent. I get told regularly that my extracts are some of the best anyone I know has tried, but that's subjective so I take it with a grain of salt. For me and my wife these extractions work great, taste great, and always impress.

Thundercat said:

I use 91% ISO all the time now, and have been for almost 2 years. They all performed almost identical except the 70% iso which was crap. I cant get the 99% in my state anymore but it didn't perform any better then the 91%. The biggest reason I use the ISO is the price. I typically do 1-2 washes a week, and use about 1.5 quarts of ISO per wash. Using ethanol is A LOT more expensive, and I hate the idea of evaporating perfectly good drinking alcohol into the air. Once the alcohol is evapped there is nothing left anyway, so I don't see the point in worrying if its a food grade solvent. I get told regularly that my extracts are some of the best anyone I know has tried, but that's subjective so I take it with a grain of salt. For me and my wife these extractions work great, taste great, and always impress.

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I prefer ethanol just cause imo it retains more terpenes but I dont mind iso at all. I only switched to ethanol cause thats what my states med bill is going to require

I like both as well but I tend to do more iso then ethanol because of price and availability.

That powder thats scraped up is NOT hash oil, sorry to inform you. I would way rather use acetone vs isopropyl for the reclaiming of theoretical yield loss due to transfers from container to container, being super careful not to have plastics or rubber get into the batch. Its way cleaner and leaves no trace or taste of ever being used. To get the last oil out of my sinster funnel or coffee filters for most you guys, isopropyl can't fade acetone.

lio lacidem said:

Where do you get this info from oilmkr? Just curious.
@Thundercat which did you prefer between ethanol and the diff iso's?

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Well let me break down theory as I understand it. 99% isopropyl has a 1% water portion to it. That 1% gets bigger towards the end of its evaporation as it draws in moisture from the environment, but is infinitely miscible w water, making the residues denatured until there isn't a moisture content remaining. When your dealing w 151-200 proof moonshine, the residues are not toxic in the denaturing sense, fit for human consumption as it were derived from grain fermentation. These last water portions that remain leave a superior top note esp when the extract keeps about <15% moisture content. This is where ethanol excels is in the taste preservation and higher selectivity, pulling out less junk and when coupled w propane or co2, nice game changing additions have made separation from people using substandard solvents.

Thundercat said:

I use 91% ISO all the time now, and have been for almost 2 years. They all performed almost identical except the 70% iso which was crap. I cant get the 99% in my state anymore but it didn't perform any better then the 91%. The biggest reason I use the ISO is the price. I typically do 1-2 washes a week, and use about 1.5 quarts of ISO per wash. Using ethanol is A LOT more expensive, and I hate the idea of evaporating perfectly good drinking alcohol into the air. Once the alcohol is evapped there is nothing left anyway, so I don't see the point in worrying if its a food grade solvent. I get told regularly that my extracts are some of the best anyone I know has tried, but that's subjective so I take it with a grain of salt. For me and my wife these extractions work great, taste great, and always impress.

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I used 100% for a long time, now I use 91. I think if you have a good method, 100 vs 91 doesn't seem to matter IME.