plants suffer after transplant(with pics)

Good day RIU,

I grow clones in DWC for early veg.
than I transplant to ebb and grow system veg a bit longer.

I veg in DWC longer this time, roots winding with each other( single bucket with 6 plants)
they usually getting better in couple weeks.
this time plants come back a little, but still suffer from something I cant figure it out.

pics are in attached file.
anyone have experienced like this pls help me identify what problem are they having, and how to solved the problem.
really appreciated that

View google images to see pictures that look like your plant.
russet mites cannabis.
or broad mites cannabis.

Buba Blend said:

View google images to see pictures that look like your plant.
russet mites cannabis.
or broad mites cannabis.

Click to expand...

BINGO THAT!

Perfect call.

Buba Blend said:

View google images to see pictures that look like your plant.
russet mites cannabis.
or broad mites cannabis.

Click to expand...

The little bastards!

never have russet mites before...
I guess I have to kill those little barstards.

Any idea why having those mites?

rip.

mites come from clones, houseplants, buddies visiting the garden.
they dont come from the dogs, the lawn mower, the shoes, the air, seeds, pro mix, happy frog, hydroton
ime. The other side of my garden door is a barn, dirt floor, with all of my composted dirt, new dirt, used dirt, lawn mowers, tractors, brush hogs, lawn equipment, barn car, chickens regularly bath in all of the dirt, new and used, my dog often tends my garden with me and my door stays open while I work in there sometimes. I work in the dirt and go right into my rooms and no mites in almost ten years. mites love unhealthy plants. high brix prevents them. I see more mites with subpar lighting than with hid, not sure whats up with that. Mites love the lack of atmosphere controls too.
I never let anyone in, never allowed a clone in, I dont grow house plants in there and I dont shop at the florist section.

FORBID 4F

Bout all you can do, besides pray after treating them.

Now you'll do better by burning them. Yes, I said BURN them. Now do a bug bomb or 2 in the grow area. Spray the seams and cracks with a weak pyrethrin mix - that would be at and around all doors, windows and cracks. Include the floor at the walls.

Btw, that is one bad infestation... Didn't happen overnight.....

Dr. Who said:

FORBID 4F

Bout all you can do, besides pray after treating them.

Now you'll do better by burning them. Yes, I said BURN them. Now do a bug bomb or 2 in the grow area. Spray the seams and cracks with a weak pyrethrin mix - that would be at and around all doors, windows and cracks. Include the floor at the walls.

Btw, that is one bad infestation... Didn't happen overnight.....

Click to expand...

Yep, they're microscopic. By the time you see the damage you already have a bad infestation. These plants are way passed that. Regular inspections with a variable 100x scope and preventative treatments with Dr. Zymes are the only way. Forbid is about the only thing that can save a plant from a bad infestation but it takes something like 90 days after treatment to be considered safe so it's pretty much useless on anything but the early veg of plants that are going to be vegged out big. That said, I've had to user it on plants that were a lot closer than 90 days from harvest before Dr Zymes came out. I'm currently working a 104 plant outdoor farm we had russets on recently. Regular treatments of Dr. Zymes and they're gone. And it's an all natural product rated as safe to use up to the day of harvest.

SchmoeJoe said:

Yep, they're microscopic. By the time you see the damage you already have a bad infestation. These plants are way passed that. Regular inspections with a variable 100x scope and preventative treatments with Dr. Zymes are the only way. Forbid is about the only thing that can save a plant from a bad infestation but it takes something like 90 days after treatment to be considered safe so it's pretty much useless on anything but the early veg of plants that are going to be vegged out big. That said, I've had to user it on plants that were a lot closer than 90 days from harvest before Dr Zymes came out. I'm currently working a 104 plant outdoor farm we had russets on recently. Regular treatments of Dr. Zymes and they're gone. And it's an all natural product rated as safe to use up to the day of harvest.

Click to expand...

You need to go and read the tox reports.
First off your wrong on how long it's active, or present.
Secondly, The toxicity to humans is just about nil. The compound it's self is organic. But they have to synthesize it because it's too hard and costly to extract it from nature. That is why it's not organic. By the way, the same chemical (and some of the other acids in the chain) are used in hand lotions and ladies wrinkle creams....It blocks lipid fat absorption, same as insecticide soap!

Dr. Zymes? Interesting claims, to be sure. I would have to try it. Thing is (knock wood), I haven't had mites in 6 - 7 years in my personal. I do not do any preventative spraying or applying of anything, to my plants. I do a monthly light spraying of that weak pyrethrin mix around the doors and floor/wall seam. - it's a repellent to them...

Hmm, 104 plants, and multiple "regular" treatments. Considering the price of the Dr. Zymes.....That has to cost........ The claim of (possibly) increasing yields by it's use. Sounds like puffery and a bogus sales pitch to me....
How about some pictures of those 104 plants? I'd love to see those, anybody else?