Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

Superdan01

Member
just an update droped nutes to 1.5. p.h 6.4. also droped heat (turned 1 of 600w off). 60 off 74 on. also flush agian. still very worried.

 

kidgraphix

Active Member
SuperDan, drop your Ph to 6.0 and try to keep it there it can flux a bit but should never stay above 6.2 for any longer than you can help. Your plants are being locked out of Nutes being as the Ph is in the wrong range safe bet is always keep Ph 5.8-6.2 i keep mine at 6.0 and check it often to make sure it stays stable inside that flux range.I run a hydro system but the Ph rule is still the same check your soil Ph as well alot of things affect the Ph and it is so very IMPORTANT for the plants to use all the nutrients it needs dont help to have all the Nutrients there if the plant is locked out by Ph.My 2 cents worth anyway but you should always research and persistence keep looking for any availble answer just because there may always be compounded problems Best of Luck
 

pyschoanda

Member
IMAG0079.jpgIMAG0080.jpgIMAG0078.jpgIMAG0081.jpg a few of my plants have recently started to curl like claws and im wondering if it would be caused by heat? alot of the leaves have also just wilted. would this be caused by anything else? . is this normal? can anyone help. please
 

Life Goes On

Active Member
@SuperDan01 How long have your ladies been in flowering? Because IMO from what I can tell from the pics it just looks like your ladies are coming to the end of there life cycle hence the yellowing of the leaves. When your plants know they are coming to the end of thier life cycle they will use up all the nitrogen in the soil causing the leaves to yellow. This occurance is perfectly normal. Hope this helps.
 

Superdan01

Member
SuperDan, drop your Ph to 6.0 and try to keep it there it can flux a bit but should never stay above 6.2 for any longer than you can help. Your plants are being locked out of Nutes being as the Ph is in the wrong range safe bet is always keep Ph 5.8-6.2 i keep mine at 6.0 and check it often to make sure it stays stable inside that flux range.I run a hydro system but the Ph rule is still the same check your soil Ph as well alot of things affect the Ph and it is so very IMPORTANT for the plants to use all the nutrients it needs dont help to have all the Nutrients there if the plant is locked out by Ph.My 2 cents worth anyway but you should always research and persistence keep looking for any availble answer just because there may always be compounded problems Best of Luck

kidgraphix... iv lowered ph. to 6.4. also turned another light off....so now there is only 1x 600w on. temps are now 60f off 70f on. also when iv flushed yesterday e.c was 1.8. did it again tonight after flushing it, it reads 1.4.


@SuperDan01 How long have your ladies been in flowering? Because IMO from what I can tell from the pics it just looks like your ladies are coming to the end of there life cycle hence the yellowing of the leaves. When your plants know they are coming to the end of thier life cycle they will use up all the nitrogen in the soil causing the leaves to yellow. This occurance is perfectly normal. Hope this helps
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life goes on...i really hope ur wrong truely...there at the start of the 4th week.. hand on heart i think adding an extra light put temps too high. also inlet fan was blocked and nutes possilbly too high.

its a hard knock life....LOL..thanks for the help heres another pic
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hey neone know if using apple cider vinegar as a ph down kills mycorrhizae? i used in on some month old clones and the started to get deficient in everything ever since then its been an up and down battle from underfeeding to overfeeding to nutrient lock. i stopped using apple cider vinegar in my teas and just let the ph go i mean i still check it for idk what reason and its usually 6.3 to 7.1 at the highest ive ever seen it. So i flushed the plants with plain water half tap half RO ph of that is usually no higher than 7.15 than i made a tea consisting of 1/4 strength super thrive, 1/4 tbsp/gallon mollasses and 1 tsp/ gallon humic acids 8% along with foxfarm happyfrog soil cause i cant afford mycorrhize right now but i jus strained it in the water then brewed and leached the tea through my pots. let sit for 3 days and theytunedall neon green with purple stems and the purple is almost dark with a slight red hue to it and it seems to climb up the stem with the top leaves a real light green and forming claws also the veins look more exxagerrated on the leaves or more "indentated" i guess is more like it also the one plants got a few fan leaves that are cupped and turned sidewaysat a 90 degree angle and has yellowing and falling leaves in a random order i grow in a coconut/soil mixture. idk but i feel like no matter what i try to do:just leave it alone, give extra light nutes, give normal strength nutes, flush and replenish with balanced ratios and myrobes, just chill and give plain water for a while, foliar feed instead, etcetcetc... ivetried every approach i can think of and it all seems to not be right. i feel like ther is something wrong with the ph but im really reluctant to use apple cider vinegar to lower it cause i think it kills microbes and i cant do that i worked in a hydro warehouse that made me sick cause i couldnt feel nething from those plants t all i could feel was greed and lack of respect for the planet and true life...neways ive narrowed it down to my ph meter being bad or something but when i use the reference 7.0 solution it reads perfect but that to me still doesnt mean ists working perfectly when dipped in another solution its just one of those red digital ph meters from Hanna Instruments and ive heard that they suck...neone else have one? problems? this indoor stuff is making me go looney for real back home we just use good compost and make sure pests are down and just pour water on the plants with the occasional fish and seaweed tea and its all good ne advice with all organic tean and soil/coco indoor growing temps are Veg: 400 watt MH and 4 bulb T% fixture 85day75night avg humidity:40% Flower:400 watt MH and 1000wattHPS 80day65-70night avg humudity25-35% oh yeah i had tinnie little microscopic crawlies in teh soil so i did a pyrethrum/rotenone flush at 1tsp/gal let sit overnight next day did the plain flush as described above and now this is where im at my nutes are teas but i use Age Old Grow, Fish and seaweed and Bloom in the teas all 1 tsp/gal and humic acids 1tsp/gal with 1 handfull earthworm castings per 2-5 gal also mollasses Blackstrap for flower Brer Rabbit for veg(lower in nutes than blackstrap)al 1 tbsp/gal or 1 tsp depending on how much other fertilizer i use like for small plants in 4" pots. oh yeah and the ones in just straight soil or mostly soil are not getting bad as fast mostly potassium def.-leaf edges and tips crisping and yellowing but the yellowing/dying off is more rapid in the coco/soil mixture note also that it seems the yellowing and dying is startig from the bottom while the cupping ,light light green color and clawing and indented veins is starting at the tops and the dark purple/reddish is coming frm the bottom of each branch, not the main stem, and working up
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Superdan. I generally try to keep the ec level of my media no higher than 2.0 ms/cm. This is for small plants. Ive even had seedlings in soil that high with no problems. I think you probably should be increasing your nutrient levels. Your plant is alot bigger than mine are right now, and probably are underfed.
 
Hi I was wandering if anyone could help me out with my plants? I've read the topic but I'm still unsure :S
If anyone has any ideas that would be great!
the plants are c. 4 weeks, lights are 18/4 400w HPS 24inches from the tops. EC is 1.2-1.4 and Ph is 6.1
thanks to anyone who might have some pointers!
 

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I usually let my teas sit in the growroom so they get nice and warm, problem is when i wake up the tea is usually a cool temp but then warms up under the lights after a couple hours...will this temp shift from warm to cool then back to warm kill microes?
 

schmokey

Active Member
Uncle Ben, would you by chance be the infamous Uncle Ben from OG? If so, long time no talk! Good to see ya still doing what you do best.
 

schmokey

Active Member
Hi I was wandering if anyone could help me out with my plants?
the plants are c. 4 weeks, lights are 18/4 400w HPS 24inches from the tops.
For one, for the light you have available, your lamp is WAY too far away from your babes.

As Uncle Ben points out, you need to concentrate on building a healthy root system first and foremost. Personally, I wouldn't even try to flower plants the size of yours, if you are thinking of doing so yet. I've got babes that are 1 month in veg, standing a nice healthy 1 foot or more in height and without a doubt 4 times the size of yours using cfl's. Not bragging mind you, just saying. Concentrate more on veg time with more blue in the light (for veg, lose the HPS) and work on building a good healthy base.
 

alan2526

Member
I've got 2 plants right now, once cindy I know for sure. I transplanted into FF Ocean Forest on friday...screw miracle-gro...and growth started to pick up again after about a week of no growth. I fed each plant a 1/4 tsp of microblast per gallon of water yesterday, sunday. So, the old growth has horrible yellow,brown, white dying leaves. The new growth after the transplant is not as bad but the tips are starting to whiten/brown. Now the brand new leaf coming out of the apical meristem has tiny yellow spots on the tips.

Also, the smaller plant's tips are curling upwards, with the identical discoloring of the tips. I think that might be because I clipped the dead leaves off the smaller, lesser developed plant; I heard that was like taking away their immune system. Like the salts are all going to new growth instead of building up on the old/dying leaves...I don't know if this is right though. My light is 18" away, and max temp is 86, when I'm home it's 78-82.

Have I overfed or overwatered them? They usually get it until the water starts coming out the bottom. The dude at the store told me I won't need to feed for a month with Ocean Forest, depending on the strain. I did feed them the microblast...not sure if that was bad.


Another question...will feeding them diamond nectar really do anything? I've heard alot about Leonardite and humic acid as far as increased metabolism and cell division. Is this ok to use with the Ocean Forest during the first month? Thanks

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dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was just readin and readin and all of a sudden i read PYRETRUM. I work in Plant Health Care for a living.
Dude I spray this shit, I have a license from the state and i wouldn't smoke your weed if you put a gun to my head!
Well maybe. But all the talk about going organic I think was good thinking. This thing you grow. It isn't an Orchid or a Clivia. It's called WEED for a reason.
Put the apple cider vinegar back in the food cabinet.
I'm a lil biased though. I would only ever grow in soil. Hydro is sooo a waste of money.
 

schmokey

Active Member
Leaf curling of any sort is an indication of nute problems, be it up or down. The key is, why. Rather than thinking "what can I feed them", try thinking "what's not right". For one, Ph is a real killer. If it's high it'll hit you one way, if it's low it'll hit you another, no matter what you make available to the plant. Start with the basics and go from there. Once you're sure you've nailed Ph, lighting, temp and watering, then start looking for issues with nutrient availability.

I know it's not the answer you were hoping for, but....
 

Life Goes On

Active Member
Hello fellow brethren of RIU! I don't quite think I have the whole watering thing down quite yet and it gets really hard for me at this point and time when I transplant to my 7 gallon pots. I have a very hard time knowing when to water my plants. For example right now I can stick my middle finger down into the soil up to the top knuckle before I feel moisture and the soil is pulling away from the edges of the pot. I would think that at this point in time it would be time to water right? Well here's where it gets confusing for me as the pots still seem fairly heavy to me and the soil that is showing through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pots has a wet sponge like texture to it. Should I water? Or should I wait till the pots feel a little lighter? Any help would be much obliged as I think most of my troubles with my 1st grow came from watering issues. Also I know watering depends alot on strain as well but I'm looking for a general guideline. I am growing BubbleBerry and a BubbaKush x BlueWidow if that helps.
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was just readin and readin and all of a sudden i read PYRETRUM. I work in Plant Health Care for a living.
Dude I spray this shit, I have a license from the state and i wouldn't smoke your weed if you put a gun to my head!
Well maybe. But all the talk about going organic I think was good thinking. This thing you grow. It isn't an Orchid or a Clivia. It's called WEED for a reason.
Put the apple cider vinegar back in the food cabinet.
I'm a lil biased though. I would only ever grow in soil. Hydro is sooo a waste of money.
What is the half life for it? It's based on chrysanthemum so why are you so adamant about not using it.
Apple Cider Vinegar works fine for a pH down for me, so why is it also bad?
Daniels
 
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