Phos deficiency? Flowering auto NL
- Thread starter BK_201
- Start date
I dug up a great article for you OP.
It's all about coir. It's from the company that knows it best.
CANNA
http://www.canna-uk.com/growing_on_coco_busting_the_myth
It's all about coir. It's from the company that knows it best.
CANNA
http://www.canna-uk.com/growing_on_coco_busting_the_myth
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
Just to chime in since I was quoted (still not sure why) but OP, this chart is much more accurate.
And I'm not looking to argue either, but no one (even the OP) knows what his PPMs are nor do we know the quality of his medium.
Coco coir is noted for having high amounts of K and Na.
K complete with Calcium and Magnesium uptake...but too much Mag will lockout Manganese and so on.
Without knowing what the EC/PPMS are going in its best to err on the side of caution....especially with a grow that already appears to have salt build up.
OP, its up to you...its your grow but I would absolutely drop that PK booster and get a meter stat. Until then, go with your base nutes at half strength. Its much easier to fix a hungry plant than it is to deal with toxic salt build up...especially in flower.
Edited to add something else I keep forgetting. Measuring run off in coco is not a reliable way to obtain the ph.
Coco retains a lot of cations due to the abundance of K positive ions. Essentially, the Cal, Mag, Iron cations will remain in the medium instead of draining out with the waste run off.
OP. Mix a slurry of roughly 2:1 distilled water/and your medium. Wait a few minutes and test.
This will give you a more accurate measurement. (skip the 10$ garden probes too as those are completely useless and rarely if ever accurate)
Also, as your medium dries your ph will rise on its own giving you some fluctuations.
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What you said op.
Go by your waste, when your ec meter comes.
Ph pen for your feed. Ph drops for your waste. I find the ph pens dart around with the waste. So I use the drops.
Imho. You can't really beat a truncheon for ec too. The truncheon gives all the other conversions too.
The way I do things myself is. I hand water. I feed by roughly a weekly schedule. Beginning of the week, I feed strong ec at ph5,5. Each feed inside that week I taper down the feed a little, and raise the ph.
By the end of the feed week. I'm doing the same thing as a reservoir. Tip it out, and refill. Essentially, I flush on the last day of the week. The solution I use is low ec.
Then the start of the new week, the next day. I start over.
Each day I feed. I match my waste to my feed. Ec and ph, of the waste have to be close to each other.
Both the coir, and your feed, need to be making love.
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OP.
You'll find with coir that when it's completely saturated. It's almost completely inert. Probably just about on par with Rockwool.
As you'll read in the canna article, you can't let it dry too much. The stuff is like a sponge. You'll also notice it collaborates with my diagnosis of a potassium issue. Excess potassium also locks out calmag. It's more of an antagonist. It also explains a lot about the relationship between a low ph and potassium uptake.
You need to remember. Lockouts and deficiency always start off looking the same. You always need to narrow down the possibilities. PH is the first to check. Always.
If the ph is fine. 99% of the time, the problem is antagonism.
Extra food is always the last solution. Always.
It's the wonderful thing about coir. It's a FANTASTIC buffer. You just need to utilize it's CEC. Instead of trying to fight it.
You'll find with coir that when it's completely saturated. It's almost completely inert. Probably just about on par with Rockwool.
As you'll read in the canna article, you can't let it dry too much. The stuff is like a sponge. You'll also notice it collaborates with my diagnosis of a potassium issue. Excess potassium also locks out calmag. It's more of an antagonist. It also explains a lot about the relationship between a low ph and potassium uptake.
You need to remember. Lockouts and deficiency always start off looking the same. You always need to narrow down the possibilities. PH is the first to check. Always.
If the ph is fine. 99% of the time, the problem is antagonism.
Extra food is always the last solution. Always.
It's the wonderful thing about coir. It's a FANTASTIC buffer. You just need to utilize it's CEC. Instead of trying to fight it.
"BUT because of the high cation exchange capacity in coir", as soon as i read that. it was enough..once again, showing you have no clue what you're saying! lol it seems you just started picking up anions and cations and are still a bit confused as to how it all works.
You keep saying you need to know the waste..yet in as many other posts..you keep mentioning..and this is only recently btw lol, that you shouldn't test runoff, its not reliable. You actually have it backwards..in dwc you measure 'waste', as there is no cec ability in water at all, so you need to know what or how much is missing/building up. The chart you showed me is FOR SOIL! lol..look at the ranges..why do you need it to swing when according to YOUR chart for coco, all is available at 6.5? lol You need it to swing in coco for the same reason as in hydro, because one is hydro, and coco is considered soilless! It does not contain clay which is what attract the cations in traditional soil! In such mediums, the availability of heavier metals is locked out by 6.3 ph...your ph chart shows all is good at almost ph 7.0 in coco? Keep watering your coco with 7.0..again..your chart says its perfectly fine..because again..its for soil!!! lol...in soil you can getaway with that..try it in coco or hydro!
Any case..thruthfully, this has gone off topic from op's question..im not here to debate with such foolish things lol..good luck..follow your chart! 