Outdoor 12x32 shed

heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
Need some help with this one RIU community...Let's start with basics..Should I pay more and go ahead and do a full HVAC heating and air system to really maximize space for the future if and when it becomes legal? company quoted me about 4000k for a carrier system...

Next big one is insulation before drywall goes in...What is best? Was drywall a small attic space for more ducting too. Thanks yall!
 
RetiredMatthebrute

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
if you have the money and know it will be something you will be doing for a while then HVAC seems like a legit investment...then you wont really need ducting will you? seal off the room run CO2 and climate control. better be one hell of a AC unit though.
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
Was quoted for a carrier hvac system fully installed for about 4800k...The ceilings is pitched toward the top so there is potential to drywall in and make a small attic for ducting, and exhaust. But if we did that then ceiling would be 9-10 ft tall...

I would still have to obviously air cool my hoods and exhaust heat off them right? Doing a lung room in the middle to keep ballasts, and anything else heat related out of rooms. Front of shed will be veg, and back end will be flower with lung room partition in between. Sound good?

I got shed delivered with sub-floor insulation already put down, but want to know what insulation would be best for attic space, and walls before drywall put down..

Thanks guys!
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
AC needs to be sized by manual J calculations to account for building heat loads, insulation and so forth, most contractors just guess or their numbers are flat wrong lol. and one needs to add 3.51 btu/hr per watt utilized in this structure to grow as these values would be omitted from the manual j spreadsheet.
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
Snaps you are the effin' man, and I have been reading your advice for people designing on here for awhile now...Many thanks for your contributions to me and many others...

Sound isn't a factor at all, I live in the middle of nowhere with zero neighbors..So regarding the additional btu factor, how should I convey that to the potential HVAC installer in a way that doesn't sound shady?
 
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Aeroknow

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
heelzballer said:
Also, regarding insulation on the walls after wiring is run...What is the ultimate best?
Click to expand...
The absolute best is going to be spray foam insulation. If you can't do that, and need to go with batt, the best is going to be the highest R-Value they make, for the sheds wall thickness(cavity). Simple as that
 
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SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
If for any reason you need to run your air conditioner in low ambient situations, you'll want a freeze kit on that puppy. Many good minisplits for server rooms offer low / very low ambient operation as well as auto restart after power outage.

As to your contractor deception tactics, I am a diy guy.

Best insulation imo, would be the spray on closed cell. :)
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
With some general research, I guess for the square footage of my shed at around 300 sq.ft, I am looking at around a 2-2.5 ton HVAC system, through either carrier or rheem...Some of their newer systems look to be more efficient and could potentially allow for dual climate zones (up to 8) with certain ducting set up. Does this sound about right?
 
Aeroknow

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
heelzballer said:
With some general research, I guess for the square footage of my shed at around 300 sq.ft, I am looking at around a 2-2.5 ton HVAC system, through either carrier or rheem...Some of their newer systems look to be more efficient and could potentially allow for dual climate zones (up to 8) with certain ducting set up. Does this sound about right?
Click to expand...
You still haven't even mentioned how many watts of light is going to be in this building. VERY IMPORTANT! No one can help you size an AC without this info. The only thing your giving up so far is that it will be insulated, the sqft, and that you'll be air-cooling the hoods. Did I miss something? Need way more input k.
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
Still unsure about total wattage which is why I'm in the info grabbing stage...

I know for sure that I will be running 4 600w air-cooled hoods with their corresponding ballasts in the lung room, with the veg room having another probably 2 400w air-cooled hoods for veg, one 250w for a few mothers, and the rest being cfls, t5s for clones. Veg and Flower rooms will be separated by a lung room.
 
Aeroknow

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
heelzballer said:
Still unsure about total wattage which is why I'm in the info grabbing stage...

I know for sure that I will be running 4 600w air-cooled hoods with their corresponding ballasts in the lung room, with the veg room having another probably 2 400w air-cooled hoods for veg, one 250w for a few mothers, and the rest being cfls, t5s for clones. Veg and Flower rooms will be separated by a lung room.
Click to expand...
So yeah, once you figure out exactly how much your gonna run, use the formula Snaps has provided. Any further questions on ur AC choice, should prob wait until then. Good luck :-)
Sounds like you are def planning it out good.
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
Thanks seriously for the input, once I determine the full amount of wattage, hopefully you guys can guide me in a little further into right HVAC system for this investment.
 
heelzballer

heelzballer

Well-Known Member
HVAC I just talked with said mini-split system would be more than enough to work efficiently instead of going full HVAC system. Said smallest HVAC system is usually for 900-1000 sq. ft. Mini-splits are apparently ductless...Would this type of system still work?? He gave me a rough quote of about 3k for installation...
 
NoSwagBag

NoSwagBag

Well-Known Member
The only thing youll have to figure out is how to get the cooled or heated air to both rooms. The mini-splits ive seen dont use ducts. I do agree with snaps though; mini split would be a good fit.
 
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