Then, half of those who scream online go "Nute burn or deficiency?" and before getting a good answer, decide, of course, it's a deficiency and dump something else on top of a burned plant.I hardly think I'm preaching to the choir....If only that were true.
One of the most common maladies I see here is NUTE BURN. Over and over again. In the misplaced thought of pushing the plant as hard as it can stand to improve yields (perceived), ppl turn their substrates into nutrient junkyards. Then they scream online when it starts to implode....
Growing is like building a house. It's all in the foundation. It's all about patience.
if the sod grower knew anything about growing sod , he would be buying food to feed the danm grass instead of myco. if his sod really "relies" on myco just to survive then he has a serious prob.
yes the doc breaks it all the way down. she (i think) has studied teas, soil and myco to the fullest. all of her reads are great and very experienced. in fact she is a legend in the dirt world. I believe her info is the first i read about myco a few years ago.
High Phosphorus can limit some Fungus. Similar point is that much of the beneficial organisms don't start growing until they detect root exudates. That's why I have the clover going. Fixes Nitrogen and keeps the microlife going while waiting for my next seedling.
Only thing I could add is make sure your brewing above 85f, "meals" ingredients get "used" properly in hotter brew conditions~ I'd brew for longer too, maybe try 30+hrs
Thanks dude!Only thing I could add is make sure your brewing above 85f, "meals" ingredients get "used" properly in hotter brew conditions~ I'd brew for longer too, maybe try 30+hrs
#cheer$
btw, it's cool to add more bennies-- just don't over do it
how much water with all that food ?
This blew my mind. So you could theoretically apply this during germination to the tap root before planting it into it's first container?It didnt take long for the fungus to infest the roots of these seeds. The fungus will continue to propagate and infest as the root system develops.
Mycorrhizal application is easy and requires no special equipment. The goal is to create physical contact between the mycorrhizal inoculant and the plant root. Mycorrhizal inoculant can be sprinkled onto roots during transplanting, worked into seed beds, blended into potting soil, "watered in" via existing irrigation systems, applied as a root dip gel or probed into the root zone of existing plants. The type of application depends upon the conditions and needs of the applicator.
Mix it in at the roots and try to make direct root contact to make the infection earlier and stronger.
