MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

Hi TF,
Hydro vega for vegging and the hydro flores for flowering, its a 2 part with equal amounts of A & B.

Hi Fatman,
Make sure your sitting down when ICS gives you the price, i can`t see them being cheap. Theres no hydro store in my town so i have to pay shipping on the nutes as well

Atomizer said:

Hi TF,
Hydro vega for vegging and the hydro flores for flowering, its a 2 part with equal amounts of A & B.

Hi Fatman,
Make sure your sitting down when ICS gives you the price, i can`t see them being cheap. Theres no hydro store in my town so i have to pay shipping on the nutes as well

Click to expand...

Hey atomizer
Well im been researching the nute thing here for a couple of days. it seems to indicate that lower PH levels should be used in true aero. ive also noticed that the nutes that are suppose to be formulated for true aero(bio) seem to have alot higher levels of P and K than what the normal hydro nutes recommend. i know that bio's nutes are formulated for different plant species but no matter which plant species formula you look at they all have higher p and k values than whats recomended for just normal hydro. I dont know why that is and i havent found the answer yet but im assuming that these people have used tissue samples to arrive at thier formulas. I mean this is NASA stuff supposedly. Anyway why im looking into this is the regular formulas i use to use for my LP aero systems are not showing the same results im seeing now. The test subjects are progressing faster than the LP im use too but i can see there not completly happy. I know alot of times they just grow out of it but its nice to have things just right. have you ever noticed any def with the recommended ratios of canna? Or do things always look nice and healthy.

I looked at the link you provided for the air atomizing nozzels and they are basically the same setup options as the USA companies offer. They sure do look like alot of fun though. but it isnt going to be cheap to make one of them, unless you could find the air compressor . I actually contacted the distributor for the bambi line in north america and got a quote on one that could run 8-10 nozzels(according to the info off the atomix web site.) the price was $3800. on some of the North American suppliers of these air atomizing nozzels websites they have data on exactly how much air is required to get the desired flow rates. But looking at that data seemed to me that the info atomix had listed for which compressor was needed for x amount of nozzels was pretty accurate. so in my case it wouldnt be cheap unless i found an air compressor at a rumage sale .

fatman7574 said:

A new cheap inline canister type mesh filter on eBat at make an offer. http://cgi.ebay.com/SPRAYING-SYSTEMS-122-PP-T-STYLE-PLASTIC-VALVES-CS-30_W0QQitemZ300358904500QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45eec92ab4

Here is the description by the manafacturer.
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oGkw4gIeBKi0MBUtlXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzZmQ3bmgyBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNQRjb2xvA3NrMQR2dGlkA0Y4MjNfMTM4/SIG=11vtdc8sj/EXP=1256288928/**http://www.spraying.pl/broszury/pdf/c35.pdf 122-PP page #4 As can be seen the filter inserts are available in meshs down to 200 micron.

Click to expand...

This is a nice filter as far as the pressure rating goes but 200 microns if not good enough for the nozzels i have. i run a 22 micron and a 1 micron absolute. they recommend 5 micron or less filtration with these nozzels.

you sound like you know alot about nutes im still learning alot. i have meters to monitor ph and ec levels its the ratio of these in the solution and what ratios of npk are optimal for 50 micron sprays im trying to learn about. Ive not come across anyone who has run these systems and documented it who hasnt had some issues with the recommended advice given for LP aero or hydro , in regards to ec levels, ratios betwen NPK and PH.

tree farmer said:

This is a nice filter as far as the pressure rating goes but 200 microns if not good enough for the nozzels i have. i run a 22 micron and a 1 micron absolute. they recommend 5 micron or less filtration with these nozzels.

you sound like you know alot about nutes im still learning alot. i have meters to monitor ph and ec levels its the ratio of these in the solution and what ratios of npk are optimal for 50 micron sprays im trying to learn about. Ive not come across anyone who has run these systems and documented it who hasnt had some issues with the recommended advice given for LP aero or hydro , in regards to ec levels, ratios betwen NPK and PH.

Click to expand...

I threw out the 200 micron number because that was size was discuseed earlier in the thread. The mesh presently in the filter is 30 micron and the replacement mesh filter inserts only go down to 16 micron.


My knowe ledge of nutrients springs out of just reading a lot. My job as an environmental engineers is to remove nutrients. I teach two graduate courses, one in water treatment and the other in waste water treatment plantt design. Other than that I work with aquatic chemistry a lot (fish hatcheries bio filtration) so I am constantly dealing with primary nutrients, carbonates, heavy metals, pH and dissolved oxygen demands. I also have marine reef aquariums so that gives me more reason to have a small water quality lab in my house. And I am old so I have been at it for a while. I have been growing indoors under lights for 25 years.

I have never worked with any nutrient system more advanced than aeroponics with low to medium pressures though. I would pay for the shiping oof a package containing a few ml of each Canna product you hae so as to run an analysis to betermine their concentrations. I am quite sure they would ost no more than a dlooar or maybe 2 dollars per gallon for a minmium of a 100X concentrate. I would even give you the results in grams per liter to reproduce the product if you wish. I could even give a formulation for the maximum concentray tion that the tow parst formulations could be mixed at without and precipitation being formed. I assume they have at least three formulations. A micro (Part 1), and a veg (Part II) and a bloom (Part II), there fore three formulations. The best formulation however would be my making the forulation also based uopon the anlaysis of your waternused if it is not close to pur RODI water. If your interested let me know. I would only need enough concentrtae of each to mix about 250 ml. ie 2.5 ml of each likely. That is actually alot more than I need but with that amount small errors are not as likely to have any great effects on the results. 1/2 teasppon of each is an awfully cheap price for obtaining the formulation analysis on a quite expensive retail nutrient formulation.

I think it`d definitely be worth a go if you could get away with a noisey (aka cheap) compressor, i`m not in the coverted position of living miles from anywhere unfortunately
From the atomix info, they recommended a PH of 5.8 and advocate using a drain to waste type nutrient. Their theory was the roots only get one shot to grab what they need so everything has to be available in the mist.
I`m not sure how accurate that is though as most dtw systems use some kind of media which will increase the contact time.
I bought some 12vdc solenoids with 15mm pushfit connections for the vertical project today, i figured they`d be useful for battery backup.

I swear to you guys thye typical bambi air compressor used with the aerox mix system is the same type and sized compressor used with a 1 hp (1200 btu) window air conditioner. That size air conditioner brand new sells in the U.S. for $250 tops. How much more could it cost there. The controls are all readily available. That size would put out 4 cfm of air. The air needed for a atomizer putting out 0.021 gallons per minute (equivalent to the size your now using) only uses at 1.5 bar 1.86 Nm^3/hr. A 1 hp compressor puts out 4 cfm constantly. The atomizer uses (1.86 m^3* 35.53 ft^3/m^3) = 66.09 cf per hour. So per second of sprays per nozzle (66.09/60/60)= 0.18 cf. As the small compressor puts out (4 cfm / 60 sec/min)= 0.66 cf/sec 0.66/18 = 3.66. What this clearly indicates is that the atomix is spraying out a great deal less nutrient than you are presently using. I imagine a great deal less. They actually claim that there should n be no drainage of excess fli uids. I imagine they are actually spraying likely around 10 to 20 percent of waht you are spraying through the high pressure misters. By lookking at the single compressor and the double comprssor units they show in their adds it actually looks like the single compressor shown with a single compartment unit is only a 1/2 hp compressor and the double compressor unit is only using two 1/2 hp compressor units. If that is the case they are using some very small output atomizers using very little nutrients or water. Likely they are using 1/4 the nutrients total so there air usage is about 1/3 as much. So (22.23 /60/60)= 0.006 cfs. A single 1/2 hp would put out (2/60) = 0.0333 cfs. So they are likely using a small compressor that would only be s\]using about 18% of the capacity of a half horse compressor.

The quality of the compressor units they use are catually pretty much bottom line units. Thera re using the same compressors as would be used in home air conditioners and large home refrigeration frezzer units. The next better lines are just made with small commercial refigeration compressors. Even a lot of the home built units are better because the DIY people often use the condensors as air coolers. This would allow for easier and more assured oil removal as well as si upplying cooler air. This is usually only done with the more expensive silent compressors. It is not done woth the tow air copressor units shown in the aeromix advertisements. The commercial refrigeration type compressors have capacitor start motors that allow the comprseeor to start at higher loads than the home refrigeration units. They also generally have a bilt on case top that is finned rather than a smooth welded on top. Not that it matters as the compressors are so cheap they are just scrapped rather than repaired. The small compressors cabn have the hard start comprressor capacitors installed from commercial units. Thet are direct swap for the same size compressors. Or the hard start condensors can be purchased cheaply from Sporlan or Parker or many other refrigeration parts.

ICS also has what they call there low cost options. They list very fine atomization with very low air volumes starting at 7 liters per minute and at a pressure of only 0.2 bar. Do you suppose atomix would use low cost option atomisers. That would explain larger volumes with the small compressors they show. So many estimations (guesses) and trial and erro without data from manafacturers like aeromix. So mo uch easier to obtain data from american manafacturers. The first thing out of there mouths is not proprietary or secret information.

Alas no manafacturer over there answers emails from over here in a timey fashion anyway, even the nozzle manafacturers. Go figure.

Were are you getting your aeromix information. Any thing that comes up with a link to them comes up with error messages and such from here. All I can get is a couple utubes, a growing forum site write up and a single advertisement. Nothing for an actual aeromix site link. It takes quite a while to open any UK site from here. Most just won't open.

fatman7574 said:

I threw out the 200 micron number because that was size was discuseed earlier in the thread. The mesh presently in the filter is 30 micron and the replacement mesh filter inserts only go down to 16 micron.


My knowe ledge of nutrients springs out of just reading a lot. My job as an environmental engineers is to remove nutrients. I teach two graduate courses, one in water treatment and the other in waste water treatment plantt design. Other than that I work with aquatic chemistry a lot (fish hatcheries bio filtration) so I am constantly dealing with primary nutrientsir carbonates, heavy metals, pH and dissolved oxygen demands. I also have marine reef aquariums so that gives me more reason to have a small water quality lab in my house. And I am old so I have been at it for a while. I have been growing indoors under lights for 25 years.

I have never worked with any nutrient system more advanced than aeroponics with low to medium pressures though. I would pay for the shiping oof a package containing a few ml of each Canna product you hae so as to run an analysis to betermine their concentrations. I am quite sure they would ost no more than a dlooar or maybe 2 dollars per gallon for a minmium of a 100X concentrate. I would even give you the results in grams per liter to reproduce the product if you wish. I could even give a formulation for the maximum concentray tion that the tow parst formulations could be mixed at without and precipitation being formed. I assume they have at least three formulations. A micro (Part 1), and a veg (Part II) and a bloom (Part II), there fore three formulations. The best formulation however would be my making the forulation also based uopon the anlaysis of your waternused if it is not close to pur RODI water. If your interested let me know. I would only need enough concentrtae of each to mix about 250 ml. ie 2.5 ml of each likely. That is actually alot more than I need but with that amount small errors are not as likely to have any great effects on the results. 1/2 teasppon of each is an awfully cheap price for obtaining the formulation analysis on a quite expensive retail nutrient formulation.

Click to expand...

its not really the analaysis of the nutrients that im looking for. i was more concerned with the ratios of how much p to k to n that true aero people are using to get the most of of the system. I dont know for a fact but im just assuming since the uptake and develpoment of the plant is excelerated that possibly the ratios in which these nutes are taken up is different than in traditional hydro. I can tell already just from some tests that i have done that the root developement is more profound than was in my LP aero pods. So this lead me to believe that they were probably in need of more p and k. So than i looked at the ratios of what the commercial aero,not the hydro stores, but scientists were using in there food crops with true high pressure aero. and i saw that all there mixes were higher in p and k compared to lets say GH nutes. the scientists ratios were something like 10-10-40 .well that isnt anything close for a mix using GH at normal rates. I can mix the GH using the 3 part series to get to almost the same 10-10-40 but i dont know if that 10-10-40 is specific to the test subjects. that ratio they give is for herbs.but i will add that every formula they give always has almost a 1-1-3 to 4 ratio. thats NPK. so like i said im just assuming that true mist has some different ratio demands but abviously i cant find any plant specifics for these types of test subjects. Any way with a little trial and error im getting things dialed in and i am very amazed at what im seeing.

Now as to the atomix info i obtained that from thier website before it went down when i was trying to make up my mind which way to go high pressure water or compressed air atomizing. unfortunatly i didnt save the info because i had no idea atomix would go under. they had all the compressors on thier web site and how many nozzels they could run and i also went to bambis website and looked up the same models and specs. when you start talking about air compressors on ac units to tell you the truth im lost because i dont know much about that field but i will definatly do some studing and see if what your saying is something i could do. i wont be building one for a while cause i got my hands full dealing with what i got and like i said im very impressed so far.

i know from reading that the atomix will deliver a better average mean droplet size and quicker than what i have now because i can set my timer to 1 sec and still get droplets that pool a tiny bit on the root hairs. but the root hairs are very fine compared to my LP aero and the laterals are going crazy not just taps dropping to the floor ,so i know its not as good as it could be but it sure is a step up from what i m use to seeing. time will tell. i

if you can do the compressor thing id definetly go the air atomizing way but i dont think the air atomizing way would work in the tubes because they need air space to disperse properly. if you havent seen the guys diaries on uk420 using the atomix for 4 or 5 complete runs check it out you will find alot of info there.

Oh i forgot to add im not using canna. i only wanted to use canna because thats what the guys were using in thier atomix machines and thats what atomizer said works for him. If the GH doesnt work i might try the canna just because it worked with those guys. there is no real info on this anywhere i can find because very very few people have or can run these systems. A guy has to figure the stuff out on his own im finding out. and alot of people i think are put off with the complication of these systems. which i can understand. if your not into these types of things its not alot of fun but i enjoy the engineering nand building as much as the end result.

Atomizer said:

I think it`d definitely be worth a go if you could get away with a noisey (aka cheap) compressor, i`m not in the coverted position of living miles from anywhere unfortunately
From the atomix info, they recommended a PH of 5.8 and advocate using a drain to waste type nutrient. Their theory was the roots only get one shot to grab what they need so everything has to be available in the mist.
I`m not sure how accurate that is though as most dtw systems use some kind of media which will increase the contact time.
I bought some 12vdc solenoids with 15mm pushfit connections for the vertical project today, i figured they`d be useful for battery backup.

Click to expand...

Looks like a good find. can they handle the pressure. Love the pushfit. id never build anything again without them. wish i would have learned that long ago. Cant wait to get my backup sytem up also. hopefully in a couple more weeks ill have all the pieces.

i use to love to go to junk yards and find things like fans and relay controls and pumps. they would sell the stuff to me by the pound. ive made almost every electrical and electronis thing i have from surplus or stuff from junk yards. Controllers people pay hundreds of dollars for can be made with surplus electronics for a fraction of the cost. Of course electrical and electronis is my hobby so its easy for me.

I m pretty sure that the def i thought i was seeing was just to lite on the ec level. a couple more tests yet to confirm.

My anticipated plan is to try out three cubes 3' x 3' x 3' as my most typical arrangement has been for rooms that are 3" by 9", with 3" by 5" in budding tubes and 4 foot devoted to cloning and short term vegging., ans a few back up/mother plants. The partition wall is readily removable though. The air conditioner and dehumidifier evaporators are up at ceiling level so they will not matter. I have a thermal welder so I figured on just a 3 ' x 6' long with one interior partition, and a single 3' cube. Ill use acrylic plastic in sections for the tops. While the 3" height will probably be like by the root mass it is really more of a fact that the older I get the less I like to bend i over and 3' 6" is a comfortableheight (raised floor under grow room for drains).

I will just line plywood cubes with Fiber Reinforced PVC panels (FRP) that I will thermal weld. A 4' by 8' panel is only $25 so the cost will be fairly low. I plan to just drain to waste so hopefully I can dial in the needs of the plants in a few cycles. Mixing my own nutrients keeps costs low enough though that the root health of proper spraying is more important than waste costs.

The nutrients would be gravity fed to the atomizers so the costs of the intermittantly run compressor will be less than I am presently paying for continously run pumps. I am really anxious to see just how little nutrient volume will be needed. So atomix is no longer? The only diaries on the UK420msite I have seen so far have stopped before any crop was compltete, and it was t that time only one unit owned by a thread submiter. It was a thread that was at least two or three years old. I did not try to register on the site so as to use the erearch engine. I only assume that is required to use the search engine as that is most forums typical in the US.

The only bad thing about a drain to waste system is going to be what to do with all the Conductivity and pH controllers I have. Bunch of Great Lakes Industry Analysers, Oakton, and many cooling tower controllers. They automate daily pH and conductivity adjustments real well on nutrient recirculation systems. Plus it is nice to have system with good LED screens for monitoring. Data storage and computer connections for remote moniitoring and alarms, and email alarm notification. It will be better to not need so much of it though. I even have a bunch of industrial bubble level indicators with relays for water top off and alarms. It is amazing what can be bought used and surplus. Having no wife around to "help" control my spending makes a difference though. Three marriages was enough.

TF, the solenoids are WRAS approved 0.2 - 10bar (3-150psi), they draw 5.8w or around 0.5A
There was never much info around on the atomix but now the websites are gone theres even less. The nozzles are definitely the syphon type with an internal mixing chamber though. The atomix initially used a small Jun-Air compressor before they switched to using the bambi. If you sort out a cheap quiet compressor that can run a couple of nozzles you`ll have a winner
If i have it right, g-love pulled 37oz from 4 ladies using a 600w light..and he had a few issues along the way

Atomizer said:

TF, the solenoids are WRAS approved 0.2 - 10bar (3-150psi), they draw 5.8w or around 0.5A
There was never much info around on the atomix but now the websites are gone theres even less. The nozzles are definitely the syphon type with an internal mixing chamber though. The atomix initially used a small Jun-Air compressor before they switched to using the bambi. If you sort out a cheap quiet compressor that can run a couple of nozzles you`ll have a winner
If i have it right, g-love pulled 37oz from 4 ladies using a 600w light..and he had a few issues along the way

Click to expand...

Well when i said the atomix nozzels were external mix syphon feed in an earlier post i was baseing my info on the link ill provide that says that internal mix nozzels use pressure setups and arent syphon feed, where as external uses syphon feed or gravity. External doesnt really mean outside the nozzel from what i can gather. the air and liquid both flow thru the nozzel but are mixed as they exit the nozzel. internal means the liquid and air mix inside the nozzel before exiting. Im no expert but take a look at the link they have alot of info in that pdf

http://s7d5.scene7.com/s7ondemand/brochure/flash_brochure.jsp?company=SprayingSystems&sku=6_f_cat70us&config=SprayingSystems/SSCo&el=normal

when ever i try to build one of these things i think ill try and modify a regular compress to just remove all the contaminants instead of buying one of those expense medical grade silent type. or maybe i can even learn enough to use a ac compressor like fatman says. the nice thing about air you could pipe it along way even from another building to take care of the noise issue. and the nozzels are vertualy silent from what g-love said. i imagine it sounds similarly to my current setup. its just a pisst you can barely hear.

fatman7574 said:

My anticipated plan is to try out three cubes 3' x 3' x 3' as my most typical arrangement has been for rooms that are 3" by 9", with 3" by 5" in budding tubes and 4 foot devoted to cloning and short term vegging., ans a few back up/mother plants. The partition wall is readily removable though. The air conditioner and dehumidifier evaporators are up at ceiling level so they will not matter. I have a thermal welder so I figured on just a 3 ' x 6' long with one interior partition, and a single 3' cube. Ill use acrylic plastic in sections for the tops. While the 3" height will probably be like by the root mass it is really more of a fact that the older I get the less I like to bend i over and 3' 6" is a comfortableheight (raised floor under grow room for drains).

I will just line plywood cubes with Fiber Reinforced PVC panels (FRP) that I will thermal weld. A 4' by 8' panel is only $25 so the cost will be fairly low. I plan to just drain to waste so hopefully I can dial in the needs of the plants in a few cycles. Mixing my own nutrients keeps costs low enough though that the root health of proper spraying is more important than waste costs.

The nutrients would be gravity fed to the atomizers so the costs of the intermittantly run compressor will be less than I am presently paying for continously run pumps. I am really anxious to see just how little nutrient volume will be needed. So atomix is no longer? The only diaries on the UK420msite I have seen so far have stopped before any crop was compltete, and it was t that time only one unit owned by a thread submiter. It was a thread that was at least two or three years old. I did not try to register on the site so as to use the erearch engine. I only assume that is required to use the search engine as that is most forums typical in the US.

Click to expand...

I think you have to register but im not sure. but if you do get to their search engine just go to the user search function and search for posts by g-love. he did 4-5 documented runs from start to finish. he had some issues but his root development pics will convince almost anyone of the potential these types of systems have. he states he only misted 2 sec every 2 minutes or so. he did vary it sometimes and you can tell from reading his posts that he was just going by the seat of his pants because its like i said this info doesnt really exist so a person has to learn as you go. there are also some other diaries of other users but there not as comprehensive. the diaries are old. i havent read of anybody recently using one because the company no longer exists and there wasnt to many people who bought them before they went under. the atomix wasnt dtw it recirculated the solution. although it could easily have been used that way from the looks of it.

yea if you can make the chambers you could save some money also. ive found some poly tanks that i think id use for a root chamber. i would just put one plant per chamber similar to this setup only the pods would be twice as big. i like to see the extreme of a plants limits once. i dont care if its more efficient with more plants i dont need the problems associated with numbers as its just a personal hobby with me. Like you i also am old and now i just like to play a little for my own personal satisfaction..

Here they sell locally made poly tanks round, square, and rectangular for about 150 to 1000 gallons for hauling and storing drink water as many people live out side the cities and water is very deep and often full of nasties such as aresnic and huge amounts of iron. Therefore many people buy water and haul itreated water. Most ground water here is also quite hard. Still no email from either ICS or the other atomizer manafacturer. I would just call them but there is a huge time difference between here and the UK.

I emailed a uk firm while looking for nozzles and never got any reply so i sent one to the stateside company that supplied them. Lo and behold, the uk firm sent me an email the following day referencing the mail i sent stateside I can`t understand it myself..its not like their order books are full and they don`t need the business.
Air-assisted and high pressure nozzles have the same potential to grow nice roots, by the same token, it`d be easy to grow some LP aero roots with both too...just run the nozzles 24/7

fatman7574 said:

Here they sell locally made poly tanks round, square, and rectangular for about 150 to 1000 gallons for hauling and storing drink water as many people live out side the cities and water is very deep and often full of nasties such as aresnic and huge amounts of iron. Therefore many people buy water and haul itreated water. Most ground water here is also quite hard. Still no email from either ICS or the other atomizer manafacturer. I would just call them but there is a huge time difference between here and the UK.

Click to expand...

if you check the link i gave and go to thier main web page you can actually put the part number in for the nozzel assembly you want and it will give you the price. ive done it before. you have to go thru the pdf and figure out the part numbers and i think you have to input some info(company name etc.) i just made the requested info up and it still gave me the prices.

Atomizer said:

I emailed a uk firm while looking for nozzles and never got any reply so i sent one to the stateside company that supplied them. Lo and behold, the uk firm sent me an email the following day referencing the mail i sent stateside I can`t understand it myself..its not like their order books are full and they don`t need the business.
Air-assisted and high pressure nozzles have the same potential to grow nice roots, by the same token, it`d be easy to grow some LP aero roots with both too...just run the nozzles 24/7

Click to expand...

I want the short internoda spaces only found with good oxygen in the root areas. That has not come that well fron mdeium prseeure in aero tubes, and it seem a waster of time to just carry that over to cubicles. High pressure would require multiple diagrapm pumps and tanks. I just think that for me the air atomizers if obtainable at a fair price would be a better choice and more economical. I have more than adequate equipment/tools to put together silent aircompressors for a lot cheaper than retail prices. Plus the air can be used with metal without harm and no metal is need for gravity feed nutrients to the atomizer. Plasic solenoids are fairly reasonably prices for low pressure applications, excepting I might need to drop down to using low voltage soenoids to be really economicall with the use of many seperately controlled misters. I definitely do not believe all the chambers with plants at different stages are going to grow best with just one timing cycle.

I was checking a warehouse store here locally which is owned by Walmart. They have compressors tank assemblies with nice controls and tanks but standard type compressors that sell cheap enough I can just throw away the compressor and replace it with a silent compressor and add air cooling and a huge oil filtering cannister as used in the dental compressors and stll spend less than $500 each for a unit for a single chamber or about $700 for a unit to handle tup to four chambers. I can get used commercail refrigeration compressors from local refrigeration men for about the same cost as the home arir conditiner compressors. Plus I have a local refrigeration man that charges my chiilers and modifed ai conditioners with freon that is a smoker so that would lower the costs even more. I did notice the U.S. Delavan atomizers Dealers are just selling atomizers made in the UK. They do not have a U.S. manfacturer.

Atomizer said:

I emailed a uk firm while looking for nozzles and never got any reply so i sent one to the stateside company that supplied them. Lo and behold, the uk firm sent me an email the following day referencing the mail i sent stateside I can`t understand it myself..its not like their order books are full and they don`t need the business.
Air-assisted and high pressure nozzles have the same potential to grow nice roots, by the same token, it`d be easy to grow some LP aero roots with both too...just run the nozzles 24/7

Click to expand...

yea it sucks when these people wont answer their emails. A person does wonder how they stay in business. If i really want to know something and they dont answer i just call.

Yea im finding out that its a fine line between getting the tiny hairs or just smooth hydro roots. ive been tinkering with the misting settings a little trying to get it right but i wanted to make sure i had the ec level right first so i could notice if there was a difference. im at 1ec and things are starting to finally look normal. i re read some of the atomix ec levels they were using and even in the later stages they were only at 1ec.

the nozzels i have can really fill those chambers fast, anything over 2 sec on and things get wet. so im playing with the off times. g-love said that he tryed to have his settings so that between cycles there wouldnt be droplets pooling on the roots. in this system thats around 5 minutes off time. which seems like alot compared to the atomix settings they were running at 2 sec every 70 sec. ive never seen any distress even at 10 minutes off time but im not wanting to push it.

One thing that amazes me is how fast you can see results when you change something for the better or worse. within 1-2 hours its apparent youve either made the right choice or not. so its going to be a definate learning curve.

have you found any real differences in varying the misting cycles?

I tend to leave the misting pulse timing alone as much as possible and just vary the pause time.
My reasoning is the misting duration will be directly linked to the pause duration.. making the roots even slightly wetter (relatively)will mean they can handle a much longer pause. Altering the mist timing affects two variables, messing with the pause timing only really affects one. Thats my take on it anyway

g-love noticed the mist was hanging around in the chamber for over 3 minutes (which does suggest sub 5 um droplets) and promptly increased the pause timing to good effect.
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]