Fuzzotany
Well-Known Member
My A to Z on it
SUPPLIES:
1) Rubbermaid container (4-5 gallon per plant) – DARK so little light gets through – if some does you will need to paint or tape over the box’s outside to block it.
2) Air pump exceeding the capacity of the container (40 gallon pump for a 25 gallon jug) – dual outlet reccomended
3) Air tubing (8-10ft)
4) “T” attachment for air tubing (only if using single outlet pump)
5) Two air stone strips (should be more than 12” long)
6) Hydroton clay pellets (little balls of expanded clay)
7) Rockwool cubes
Net pots (look like little cups made of mesh) 2” to 3”
9) PH liquid tester for water (litmus strips work too)
10) Lights: CFL, Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium - CFL and MH are good for Veg, HPS is best for flowering
11) General Hydroponics 3-Part System (look it up online)
12) Ph up & Ph down (liquid)
13) Electric timer
14) Optional – to ease draining you may want to buy a drain valve and pvc glue to make a drainage system.
RULES:
1) Water should be 5.5ph – 6.0, if any higher/lower, fix it.
2) Ph should be adjusted AFTER adding nutrients
3) Water temps should be 60-70F – ice packs can be used in water.
4) Plant temps should be around 75-85F
5) Distilled water should be used whenever possible. Filtered waters can be used – be weary of those that add fluoride as this can kill plants.
6) Lights should have a rating of 2700K to 6500K (this is Kelvin scale – should be on every bulbs box)
7) Follow nutrient directions
Clean the bucket every time you change the water/nutrient mixture. A wipe down with a clean rag should suffice.
9) Lighting should amount to 7,500 to 10,000 lumens per sq ft.
SETUP:
1) Use a hole saw and make holes for in the lid of the rubbermaid container for your net pots (SAFETY NOTE: MANY HOLE SAWS OVER 2” WILL NOT FIT INTO MOST BATTERY POWERED DRILLS. CORDED DRILLS ARE EXTREMELY POWERFUL. IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED ONE REMEMBER THEY ARE DANGEROUS AND WILL FLY OUT OF YOUR HAND IF THEY ARE NOT VERY STRONGLY SECURED WHEN BEING USED AND WILL SHRED WHATEVER THEY HIT BEFORE THE BLADE STOPS.
2) Drill a hole for your air tubing
3) Align Airstones in your reservoir for even distribution of air bubbles over the surface of the water (suction cup airstones work well for this)
4) Mark the level of your net pots bottom inside the reservoir, this will be your water fill line, calculate the amount of water used to fill it to that mark and use that to define your nutrient concentrations.
PROCESS:
1) Germinate seeds – this is easily accomplished by keeping seeds in a moist (not soaked) paper towel in a warm, dark area.
2) When you see little roots sprout from the seeds, transfer them into rockwool, keeping the root pointing down near the bottom of the cube.
3) Rockwool should be watered lightly in 5.5PH water from time to time to keep it moist
4) Seedlings will sprout, when they do put them under the light of 1 CFL that’s always on. Note: 2+ CFLs for 6 sprouts, and the lights should be kept no further than 2 inches from the seedlings to prevent stretching.
5) When roots pass through the rockwool, place seedlings into the system (do not add nutrients yet, but PH the water)
6) After the plant gets its second set of leaves, it should be okay to start adding nutrients to the mix at 1/4 strength
7) When the plant gets a little bigger you can start adding more light, CFLs should stay close, metal halide should be kept about 7” away.
After you’ve had the lights on 24 hours a day for about a week, switch to an 18on 6off light cycle.
9) Over the course of a month, gradually raise the nutrients to 75% of their suggested value.
10) Watch your plants grow, if you want to give it a shot move up to 100% of the suggested nutrient value, be weary of yellowing leaves as this can indicate nutrient burn.
11) After 4+ weeks you may see preflowers at the node sites (this is where the stems make a Y) if you see these you’re ready to go into a 12/12 light cycle. If you still don’t see them after 6 weeks 12/12 should be safe anyway.
12) One to 2 weeks into 12/12 you should see signs of gender. Females produce small white hairs while males produce balls, eliminate the males ASAP.
13) Watch your ladies grow.
14) Usually flowering can last 7 weeks or more, plan for this because the last 2 weeks you’ll be eliminating your use of nutrients and working strictly out of water.
15) You can pinpoint when you want to harvest by observing the trichomes (you’ll need a magnifier for this, at least 30x), they should be lightly cloudy, but not clear. The cloudier the more of a body high you get. Trichomes are small stems leading to little balls, they populate your buds, are extremely small, and look like lower case i’s. You don’t really need to magnify though, the plant looks “done” when it’s ready.
16) Harvest time – pick a branch, cut it off. Trim the leaves off that aren’t covered in resin. Hang the branch (or segments) on a string in a dry place until they are smokeable…but you’re not done yet. Cut everything down into small nuggets and place them into sealed glass jars and toss them in a cool dark room. Open the jar once daily, if your nuggs are excessively damp, dump them out for half a day. Toss the nuggs back in the jar, seal it for a day, leave it open for a day… do that until they’re as most or crispy as you’d like.
17) Smoke it up.
SUPPLIES:
1) Rubbermaid container (4-5 gallon per plant) – DARK so little light gets through – if some does you will need to paint or tape over the box’s outside to block it.
2) Air pump exceeding the capacity of the container (40 gallon pump for a 25 gallon jug) – dual outlet reccomended
3) Air tubing (8-10ft)
4) “T” attachment for air tubing (only if using single outlet pump)
5) Two air stone strips (should be more than 12” long)
6) Hydroton clay pellets (little balls of expanded clay)
7) Rockwool cubes
Net pots (look like little cups made of mesh) 2” to 3”9) PH liquid tester for water (litmus strips work too)
10) Lights: CFL, Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium - CFL and MH are good for Veg, HPS is best for flowering
11) General Hydroponics 3-Part System (look it up online)
12) Ph up & Ph down (liquid)
13) Electric timer
14) Optional – to ease draining you may want to buy a drain valve and pvc glue to make a drainage system.
RULES:
1) Water should be 5.5ph – 6.0, if any higher/lower, fix it.
2) Ph should be adjusted AFTER adding nutrients
3) Water temps should be 60-70F – ice packs can be used in water.
4) Plant temps should be around 75-85F
5) Distilled water should be used whenever possible. Filtered waters can be used – be weary of those that add fluoride as this can kill plants.
6) Lights should have a rating of 2700K to 6500K (this is Kelvin scale – should be on every bulbs box)
7) Follow nutrient directions
Clean the bucket every time you change the water/nutrient mixture. A wipe down with a clean rag should suffice. 9) Lighting should amount to 7,500 to 10,000 lumens per sq ft.
SETUP:
1) Use a hole saw and make holes for in the lid of the rubbermaid container for your net pots (SAFETY NOTE: MANY HOLE SAWS OVER 2” WILL NOT FIT INTO MOST BATTERY POWERED DRILLS. CORDED DRILLS ARE EXTREMELY POWERFUL. IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED ONE REMEMBER THEY ARE DANGEROUS AND WILL FLY OUT OF YOUR HAND IF THEY ARE NOT VERY STRONGLY SECURED WHEN BEING USED AND WILL SHRED WHATEVER THEY HIT BEFORE THE BLADE STOPS.
2) Drill a hole for your air tubing
3) Align Airstones in your reservoir for even distribution of air bubbles over the surface of the water (suction cup airstones work well for this)
4) Mark the level of your net pots bottom inside the reservoir, this will be your water fill line, calculate the amount of water used to fill it to that mark and use that to define your nutrient concentrations.
PROCESS:
1) Germinate seeds – this is easily accomplished by keeping seeds in a moist (not soaked) paper towel in a warm, dark area.
2) When you see little roots sprout from the seeds, transfer them into rockwool, keeping the root pointing down near the bottom of the cube.
3) Rockwool should be watered lightly in 5.5PH water from time to time to keep it moist
4) Seedlings will sprout, when they do put them under the light of 1 CFL that’s always on. Note: 2+ CFLs for 6 sprouts, and the lights should be kept no further than 2 inches from the seedlings to prevent stretching.
5) When roots pass through the rockwool, place seedlings into the system (do not add nutrients yet, but PH the water)
6) After the plant gets its second set of leaves, it should be okay to start adding nutrients to the mix at 1/4 strength
7) When the plant gets a little bigger you can start adding more light, CFLs should stay close, metal halide should be kept about 7” away.
After you’ve had the lights on 24 hours a day for about a week, switch to an 18on 6off light cycle. 9) Over the course of a month, gradually raise the nutrients to 75% of their suggested value.
10) Watch your plants grow, if you want to give it a shot move up to 100% of the suggested nutrient value, be weary of yellowing leaves as this can indicate nutrient burn.
11) After 4+ weeks you may see preflowers at the node sites (this is where the stems make a Y) if you see these you’re ready to go into a 12/12 light cycle. If you still don’t see them after 6 weeks 12/12 should be safe anyway.
12) One to 2 weeks into 12/12 you should see signs of gender. Females produce small white hairs while males produce balls, eliminate the males ASAP.
13) Watch your ladies grow.
14) Usually flowering can last 7 weeks or more, plan for this because the last 2 weeks you’ll be eliminating your use of nutrients and working strictly out of water.
15) You can pinpoint when you want to harvest by observing the trichomes (you’ll need a magnifier for this, at least 30x), they should be lightly cloudy, but not clear. The cloudier the more of a body high you get. Trichomes are small stems leading to little balls, they populate your buds, are extremely small, and look like lower case i’s. You don’t really need to magnify though, the plant looks “done” when it’s ready.
16) Harvest time – pick a branch, cut it off. Trim the leaves off that aren’t covered in resin. Hang the branch (or segments) on a string in a dry place until they are smokeable…but you’re not done yet. Cut everything down into small nuggets and place them into sealed glass jars and toss them in a cool dark room. Open the jar once daily, if your nuggs are excessively damp, dump them out for half a day. Toss the nuggs back in the jar, seal it for a day, leave it open for a day… do that until they’re as most or crispy as you’d like.
17) Smoke it up.
