MeanWell LED Drivers: 3 in 1 Dimming Function.

UniversZero

Active Member
Hey, so, not sure this is the most appropriate place to ask this question, but I'm looking to automate 40 hlg-b series drivers to incorporate sunrise/sunset functions using the dim to off function to mitigate both inrush and humidity spikes, as well as easy and consolidated timer control. Has this topic been discussed for a light array of this size before, and if anything could point me in the right direction, they'd have my thanks.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Hey, so, not sure this is the most appropriate place to ask this question, but I'm looking to automate 40 hlg-b series drivers to incorporate sunrise/sunset functions using the dim to off function to mitigate both inrush and humidity spikes, as well as easy and consolidated timer control. Has this topic been discussed for a light array of this size before, and if anything could point me in the right direction, they'd have my thanks.
Maybe try in search arduino, bluefish, Controller, sunrise sunset, words like that.
 

UniversZero

Active Member
Plenty of info using those keywords on running a couple drivers, but not 40 running off the same one. I'd assume one would have to use multiple contactors in conjunction, but I was hoping maybe someone already laid out some groundwork on the subject somewhere.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
I don't see why multiple drivers can't be controlled with pwm or 1-10v, just connect them in parallel. Ask the controller manufacturer.
Contactors would only give you off or 100%.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
There are two main types of pots :
Linear and Logarithmic.

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Pots/
http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm

Linear type pots are the ones of interest .
Dimming with them , is smooth and ,of course, LINEAR.

Low cost Pots usually have an action of a (almost) single turn
( 0 to max resistance value )
and can dissipate about 1/4 of W ,
meaning 250mW .

( A single low -cost pot can control up to ...~ 50 drivers ,
before it's resistive material heats up and fries ...)

View attachment 3211254


As we said ,shorting Dim- and Dim+ ,ain't such a great idea....
So a "Low Limiter' resistance must be set in series with the Pot .

In case of a single driver ,that Low Limiter should be 10K (Io= 10% of Io_max ) .

So If wiper goes to A ( 0 Ω ) , minimum resistance will be 10K .

*Low limiter can be placed in series after wiper ,also.

**If A and Wiper are used then action should be ,leds go brighter when pot's knob is
turned clock-wise ,and dim down with anti-clockwise motion.

If B and wiper are used then turning Pot's knob clockwise will dim the leds down ,
whilethe anti-clockwise rotation will increase driving Io up to max.

In case of multiple drivers :

Number of drivers ____Pot value___Dis.Power.______LowLimiter Value10%____
2 50KΩ 10mW 5K
3 47KΩ 15mW 3.6 K
4 25ΚΩ 20mW 2.5K
5 20KΩ 25mW 2K
6 20KΩ 30mW 1.6K
@diyled guess Stardusts wrong huh?
 

UniversZero

Active Member
Didn't end up bothering with remote dimming afterall... Found WiFi remote timers on Amazon for $8 each, (rated 16a and 110/220v) and they have been working flawlessly for the last 37 days running 2 light rigs each (each rig consists of 2 bars of 4 cxm22s @280w each, for 560w per plant).

For the record, these cob lights outperform the vastly more expensive chilled v2 8 puck 630w rigs I'm also running in the same room. I'll be swapping those out for fluence 2i rigs to further compare against the cobs on the next run.
 

Attachments

Humple

Well-Known Member
Didn't end up bothering with remote dimming afterall... Found WiFi remote timers on Amazon for $8 each, (rated 16a and 110/220v) and they have been working flawlessly for the last 37 days running 2 light rigs each (each rig consists of 2 bars of 4 cxm22s @280w each, for 560w per plant).

For the record, these cob lights outperform the vastly more expensive chilled v2 8 puck 630w rigs I'm also running in the same room. I'll be swapping those out for fluence 2i rigs to further compare against the cobs on the next run.
So you don't feel that you've seen any benefit from the added reds in the puck builds?
 

UniversZero

Active Member
So you don't feel that you've seen any benefit from the added reds in the puck builds?
Not even remotely. I wish I had purchased their blue pucks for half of the rigs I have. I've used these chilled rigs over 3 grows now, and even my older CXB 3590s driven at similar wattages/sqft perform better than the pucks. The plants just don't see to like them nearly as much, and this is an all things being equal scenario, environment wise, same strains (over 15 different ones), with and without Co2, and one cycle was in my no till, and the others with H&G soilless. And I know for a fact I get better penetration with the cobs, both from final results and from readings from the apogee. After this cycle, I'm just going to put them up on CL I think.
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Not even remotely. I wish I had purchased their blue pucks for half of the rigs I have. I've used these chilled rigs over 3 grows now, and even my older CXB 3590s driven at similar wattages/sqft perform better than the pucks. The plants just don't see to like them nearly as much, and this is an all things being equal scenario, environment wise, same strains (over 15 different ones), with and without Co2, and one cycle was in my no till, and the others with H&G soilless. And I know for a fact I get better penetration with the cobs, both from final results and from readings from the apogee. After this cycle, I'm just going to put them up on CL I think.
Yeah, I know lighting doesn't always show up accurately in photos, but it definitely looks like the ChilLED side isn't putting out as much, despite the higher wattage. Intriguing. I've never been on the puck-train anyway, simply because I couldn't see the point and thought they were an unnecessary product (sorry, Mau5, still love you, buddy!), but I know a lot of peeps dig them, so I'm a little surprised at your results. Thanks for sharing!
 

UniversZero

Active Member
Yeah, I know lighting doesn't always show up accurately in photos, but it definitely looks like the ChilLED side isn't putting out as much, despite the higher wattage. Intriguing. I've never been on the puck-train anyway, simply because I couldn't see the point and thought they were an unnecessary product (sorry, Mau5, still love you, buddy!), but I know a lot of peeps dig them, so I'm a little surprised at your results. Thanks for sharing!
They are actually a fair bit brighter... You can't see them from the pic, there are 4 rigs in the back right section. The ones you can see that have the heat sinks are my CXBs. I'm hoping in this new room, the chilled ones will provide better results, so the jury should still be considered out until after this grow. I'll have a conclusive opinion in two months.
 

subudai

Active Member
Quick question guys.
I want to dim 1 driver, so i have a 100k pot.
Its only 90% efficient so i need to add a 10k resistor, to get 100% power.

Does the resistor go on the + or - leg?

not worried about dimming down, it will never run less than 10%
 

AlexeyL

New Member
Hi guys.

I have XLG-240-M-AB and trying to control dimming using PWM. I noticed following:
1. If DIM+ and DIM- are not connected then voltage between them is 14.5V, not 10V as specified in many sources.
2. When I connect 96 kOhm resistor, voltage on it is 9.33V

I'm using Arduino's PWM (500 Hz) and IRF520N to generate PWM for driver. When duty cycle is in range 0-70%, brightness of LEDs is changing, but after 70% it is not. I used multimeter to measure voltage between DIM+ and DIM- at 70% - it is about 10V. Yes, I know that I should use oscilloscope for this kind of measuring, but I don't have it. Further increasing PWM duty cycle from 70% to 100% leads to increasing of voltage from 10V to 14.5V.

What am I doing wrong? How to reach 10V on DIM with 100% duty cycle, as specified in datasheet? I know I can use software solution and use only range 0-180 out of 255, but I don't want to decrease PWM's resolution and would prefer to find proper hardware solution.
PWMControll.gif

Another weird thing is that when nothing is connected to DIM+ and DIM- and I short circuit them, then it takes about 2 sec for LEDs to turn off. That's really slow! Does anyone have the same issue? If I disconnect DIM+ and DIM- again, then LEDs turn on quite fast.
 
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