Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by project fuoro, Sep 11, 2009.
Then you have better attic than mine..On my attic it was hell on earth..
400W actual draw. Like i said could get away with 200 or 300w. One of those amares is 300 and i think theres a riu discount so its close to 500. Get the 4 cob one not the 3 cob imo
Its just like car amps back in the day. I hate when companies advertise their max draw or peak. So dumb. All that matters is rms. Real power draw .
Great question btw!
Thanks Rock! You answered my biggest question that I've had looking at these lights...should I be looking at the actual draw lol. Now I can sit down and actually research what I need! I knew something was up when I saw a light that advertised 1000w, but actual draw was 234w. I just had a gut feeling that I needed to be looking for something around the 400w draw, not what they advertise. It can be VERY confusing!
But this leads me to another question...If I'm running 450w on an HPS and switch to a 400w draw LED, other than the 50w difference, is there really any savings on the electric that is used?
LOL our attic is a living space, it's not used for that though now that all the kids moved out. It's more like a 3rd floor than an attic But thank you for bringing that up as many new growers wouldn't think about that!
Nope draw is draw regardless. Some people say led put off less heat. I think it dissipates differently. Maybe slightly less heat... Just not as intense at the canopy which helps alot. Although i run mine like 2 feet away from the canopy so maybe even thats the same
I think that with 300w led you could get the same yield as 400w hps. Just my 2c tho. No evidence to back that. I shoot for the old gram a watt and come close with leds but always lose track.
Certainly not like the claims some companies make that are rediculous about replacing big hps with tiny leds. Like the 1000w advertised thats only 234w you mentioned. No way in heck that would yield like a 1000w hps.
I still love all my cobs tho.
Thanks Rock! I may just do one more with HPS then go with LED. I dunnno. lol
Can. I speek u one on one i need 1216. 1212 ok but like to step up
Hay dude well i just got offer 320watt 2600mah invantic driver 114volt. 27cash wood buy
An what 1212 clu48 to smaill no what u thinking 1216 i dont have$$ for cree
Y yes it will work good ur good. But lol no dim u need to got to home deepo knob similar to the on off switch you get on a light switch but you need to buy the one that has a round knob that turns you can run 120 volts to 220 volts DC AC either or through a light switch Deming spinning knob socket to be cheap about it you would like to damn your light you're gonna need it about something too damn you're late you're not going to be able to lower the wattage that does not have a dimmer
i know nothing of building cobs. Just growing with them. I buy lights ready to use
I'm just a country boy, and I've never heard of a spinning knob socket...
I got a question about LED wattage.
What's the practical difference between using a 50W cob versus 5x 10W cob? Or using 250x 0.2W chips? Don't they in they end all yield 50W worth of light?
I've always believed from what I've read that the higher wattage chips yield better results, that they penetrate beneath the canopy more. But I don't exactly understand the physics behind this logic.
Let's say I have two scenarios in which identical plants are grown under identical conditions,
A) a single plant grown under a 100W lamp consisting of 2x 50W 6500K chips.
B) a single plant grown under a 100W lamp consisting of 10x 10W 6500K chips.
What would be the difference in the end? And why?
Normally the small chip boards are a variety of bulbs in dif spectrums.
The cobs are one specific spectrum.
Someone correct me if im wrong here.
I think in your example both would produce similar results
But im just guessing
Say you have 5 CXB3590's in series on 1400ma (roughly 34.7v each).
Anyone know what's the best way to replace 1 of the CXB's with a far red cob or far red LED's in series?) ie.
Is it ok if i replace it with any photo red LED (either series or parrallel) as long as its under 35v and can handle 1400ma safely and easily?
And if so, anyone have any LED suggestions for this? I dont mind using a few in parrallel if its underdriving them hard.
i get why you want to try this, but IMHO don't take apart you rig to change it, just add another one. most of the far-red-add-on's i have read about are pretty cheap too.
TBH, ive been pretty happy with trash runs, just on the 3000k cxb's alone.
I would think your first part would come down to penetration. I'm still trying to get all this stuff too lol. So your A + B could simply require different plant structures and get same results.
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