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Leaf Edges Discoloration? Deficiency, Genetics or Bleaching

Discussion in 'Newbie Central' started by Demonsparkx, Nov 8, 2017.

  1.  
    Demonsparkx

    Demonsparkx Member

    Started a new thread as per suggestion,accidentually posted on a bumped older 2009 thread...

    Using Single mars 300W led and plant is at least 12" from the LEDS with no signifigant heat issues from the light or room. (Temps never lower than 65-70 to as high as about 78 to 80 on occasions)
    My leaves on the top of my one plant are slightly curled shaped and look to have a very lighter discoloration/shading to around the serrated area of the leaf. Its like a lighter green than the rest of the leaf. Grown in FF OF soil with PH'D 6.0 tap (distilled open air) runoff tests 6.0 - 6.5
    Is this a concern? Im torn between it being normal or Okay,or just moving the light/plant further away from eachother. My other plant being a sativa is about 5 inches taller and close to nearly 9" from under the LED panel and shows no similar problems with the leaves like my indica does. Making it harder to determine if its genetic based,nutrients,or just a highersensitivity to the LED for the one indica plant. Any help greatly appreciated!! New to being here on these forums also as well as growing so please be easy on me lol. Attached photos both with and withour flash,growlight,[​IMG][​IMG] andwith HDR to give the most accuratelook at how they appear IRL.
     
  2.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    Personally, I don' think thats much of an issue. Are you using calmg? If not, give it a try. Your light sounds a little close, but theres no bleaching, cupping, or anything else... I have never seen this sort of lighter colors. Usually you will see it closer to where the leaf body meets the stem ehen the plant really starts to take off. Your Ph is cool since you'e using soil. Hydro Is a little different... there' s no buffering. Is the light new to the plant? I wouldn' trip until you see obvious changes in color. Keep an eye on it. And welcome to Roll It Up
     
  3.  
    Demonsparkx

    Demonsparkx Member

    No calmag or external nutes of any sort as of current since the plant looked plenty healthy enough on its own as is,aside from the minor issue in this thread that was causing me concern about the leaves. Its just starting to really take off into flowering now and is producing more trichomes every day,so ive known leaves typically deplete their nutrients into the flower development etc which may also contribute to yellowing etc. Like i said im fairly new and always appreciate others/more experienced growers input. Glad to be here and thanks for your reply!! ^.^
     
  4.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    So you've timed the lights to 12 on 12 off?

    If you're in flower you will need fertilizer. Fox Farm is the goods, but the nutrients are only good for about a month and a half. You plant isnt gonna die obviously, but it won't do as well as it could. You will need calmg because of the type of water you are using and at this point you will need a flowering fertilizer. Flowers do take from the leaves but usually only within the last few weeks of flower (pic).

    I used something known as the General Hydroponic Trio. Three bottles. Micro, Gro, and Bloom. They are super cheap, well respected, been around for decades. Now. Everyone has their favorite, and they will ALL tell you theirs is the best. Some hate Gen. Hydro. Some love it. It's all the same shit, N-P-K. Just slightly different flavors. If you do get the trio just use the micro once, and then use just the Bloom when you feed. Do NOT use the Grow in flower. If you don' use the trio dont give a Nitrogen base nutrient to a flowering plant
     

    Attached Files:

  5.  
    Demonsparkx

    Demonsparkx Member

    Yes i actually started the grow initally from 12/12 from seed and turning out nicely so far. They have all been transplanted a total of 2 or 3 times now,the FF soil is basically brand new and theyve only been in that new soil for no more than 6 days as of current. (Which are 3 Gallon final pots)

    As for the rest of your great detailed information,im still a W.I.P grower so ill definitely be going about picking up the calmag (if possible a suggested product w/link?) Id be more than glad to get an idea of what to go for,out of my local grow store hopefully something theyd carry or something equivalent. Im not really sure how to determine the true "flowering" stage per sae but my budlets are much more pronounced as actual buds/flowers with lots of white pistil hairs and trichomes starting to form all over. If you dont mind a suggestion,how often/long should i start using the micro and other suppliments? Need be,you can assist me to a thread with more details about the feeding and nutrients section thatd be great,or i can browse around myself and see what further more detailed info i can find. Thank you once again for all the advice and help!

    Edit: sorry didnt see your attached photos at first.
     
  6.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    One of the reasons we grow in stages, seedling/clone, vegetation, and finally bloom is the plant needs to set up for the next phase of its life. A very important one we pay attention to is the veg. veg provides the skeleton that a healthy plant uses for its flowers. A plant vegged for 1 month will not have the same body as a 2 month veg. We are after flowers. The flowers start at the end of the branches. If you don't have many branches you won' have many buds. See pic. of the bud. This plant is 12 inches tall. If you grow in hydro you will get to flower faster (usually). But there really isn't any benefit to starting plants at 12 and 12. Go through the stages. First and second stage is at least 22hours of light per day Watch the plant grow and get to know it. There are so many tricks you can learn that will help... that's the fun part for me.

    Here are some pics of the calmg I have used. I honestly couldn't give you a reason why one works better than the other. There are 50000 other styles. Gen Hydro Is a nice basic starter. The make another one with a blue and orange label... used it too.

    As for nutrients... I would go with the trio. See pic in last post. Again, no Nitrogen in flower. Use the Micro once the first time you feed and give it bloom. Start at half strength the first 2 feedings, the follow the directions on the back of the bottles. You may need supplements later, we can work through that. Sorry, i dont have links to the stuff o mentioned, but the shit is everywhere, just Google it and you will be sorted. My favorite store is BG Hydro in Pasadena California.. not sure where youre at, but give em a look
     

    Attached Files:

  7.  
    Lite

    Lite Well-Known Member

    looks like potential magnesium def or early onset of zinc def. Give it a watering with calmag + advanced nutes (metals)
     
    Dynamo626 likes this.
  8.  
    Tx-Peanutt

    Tx-Peanutt Well-Known Member

    They make a cal/mag with no nitrogen and it’s from Mendocino...... The rest of them are usually 2-0-0
     
    Dynamo626 likes this.
  9.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    That's good to know. I've never knew that. To be honest he will need small amounts of nitro, especially this grow... but i didnt want him feeding a full on serving of grow while in flower and wind up Nitrogen toxic. Its gonna be fun to watch this one
     
  10.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    If one plant is taller than the other... Move the light UP and put the short plant on blocks. If your in flower and she's starting to build bud sites, she want's P. You need to boost the P-K for weeks 3 thru 5. https://www.maximumyield.com/definition/3002/pk-booster Yours looks like a P deficiency. Look into that B4 you throw calcium at her.
     
  11.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    3 to 5? Im thinking 6 to 8 then flush it. I use Koolbloom. Works killer, but you gotta show it some respect. All that is a long way off.
     
  12.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    If you boost in 6/8 the party is almost over. Boosting when the flowers are just starting helps build the buds. I use dry Koolbloom. It's NOT a P-K boost. It's a stressing agent for RIPENING. Liquid Koolbloom is a boosting agent. http://generalhydroponics.com/koolbloom/
     
  13.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Nov 9, 2017
  14.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    It doesnt really matter right this second. Why are we even discussing PK boosters now?
     
  15.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    Because the OP is in flower????? Try reading what were talking about....
     
  16.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    Its just starting to really take off into flowering now and is producing more trichomes every day,so ive known leaves typically deplete their nutrients into the flower development etc which may also contribute to yellowing etc. Like i said im fairly new and always appreciate others/more experienced growers input. Glad to be here and thanks for your reply!! ^.^ FROM OP.
     
  17.  
    Stltoed

    Stltoed Well-Known Member

    So your gonna tell him what week to start and end a booster. When does that start? And about reading. His issue appears to be a nute deficiency. Maybe you could help him with that
     
  18.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

    My info to him was it looks like the plant is in need of increased P. The plant requires additional P when flipped to FLOWER. He said it's building flowering sites. Do you Not read the what he is saying. IT IS A DEFICIENCY. PHOSPHEROUS
     
  19.  
    Jypsy Dog

    Jypsy Dog Well-Known Member

  20.  
    Demonsparkx

    Demonsparkx Member

    Thank you both still for your input! Im sick right now unfortunately hence late replies, ill do my best to keep on top of this and update when possible :)
     

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