Is this a phosphorus deficiency?

kush401

Well-Known Member
Not sure I look once I get back should be there in twenty just going to the shop while I was there I wanted to get something to treat the problem
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
Pics of dead leaves aren't all that useful. Pic of the whole plant is preferable. Location of the issue and stage of life cycle are important in diagnostics. Could be nothing at all if just a few lower leaves in late flower.
 

makka

Well-Known Member
To high of ppm/ec can lock out other elements creating an illusion deficiency just learned this the hard way locking out ca or mg was exhibiting a bit of both tbh and the more cal and mg added it got worse and faster so flushed for few days started at half of what I was at and problem fixed.
Leaves looked exactly like op very very few signs of tip but dark green leafs newest top growth lost its shine that's y I asked and lower middle showed def just my 2p ofcourse
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
What ppms are you running now? Maybe a little high as indicated by some slight clawing on your leaf tips. Leaf structure shows you may not be giving them enough oxygen, which could be inadequate bubblers or a res temp that is too high.
 

makka

Well-Known Member
What ppms are you running now? Maybe a little high as indicated by some slight clawing on your leaf tips. Leaf structure shows you may not be giving them enough oxygen, which could be inadequate bubblers or a res temp that is too high.
How does ec change leaf structure? Curious?
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
How does ec change leaf structure? Curious?
Your leaf structure is one of the easier ways to get feedback and early warning signals from your plant on how it is doing. The goal is a perfectly flat leaf. If you over-water in soil you will get a gently curved structure from back of leaf all the way to tip. In hydro it is an indication of not enough O2. Clawing (a sharply downward hooked leaf tip) indicates the plant has been over-fed, often too much nitrogen. Upward hooked leaf tips or edges is often a sign of heat distress.

So you read your leaf structure and then look at what your feeding levels are and try to draw some conclusions on whether you should feed more or less. If your ppms are reasonably high you can usually rule out a deficiency and assume you have a lockout from bad ph or from overfeeding. Too much of one element will lock out nutrients, google nutrient antagonism charts to see how the relationships work.
 

makka

Well-Known Member
Your leaf structure is one of the easier ways to get feedback and early warning signals from your plant on how it is doing. The goal is a perfectly flat leaf. If you over-water in soil you will get a gently curved structure from back of leaf all the way to tip. In hydro it is an indication of not enough O2. Clawing (a sharply downward hooked leaf tip) indicates the plant has been over-fed, often too much nitrogen. Upward hooked leaf tips or edges is often a sign of heat distress.

So you read your leaf structure and then look at what your feeding levels are and try to draw some conclusions on whether you should feed more or less. If your ppms are reasonably high you can usually rule out a deficiency and assume you have a lockout from bad ph or from overfeeding. Too much of one element will lock out nutrients, google nutrient antagonism charts to see how the relationships work.
Yes I have seen these charts and aware of antagonism between elements
But thankyou for explaining.

I thought u ment u can manipulate leaf structure with ppm similar to humidity
Manipulation fatter leaflets /thinner leaflets and so on
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
Ppm 380
Ph 5.7
Res Temp 66
I would not expect overfeeding at that ppm level and your ph and res temps also look good. So I would check your roots to make sure they are nice and healthy white and make sure your bubblers are clean and working well.

Do you have some cal/mag in your nutes or source water?

If all that checks out I'm out of ideas.
 

kush401

Well-Known Member
Just starting using calmag someone told me I didn't need it but then found out I did I've been adding 2ml pergallon every res change (10days)
Been 20 days and still see new fan leafs getting effected. Mayb there using all the calmag before the 10 day?
 

Attachments

makka

Well-Known Member
Just starting using calmag someone told me I didn't need it but then found out I did I've been adding 2ml pergallon every res change (10days)
Been 20 days and still see new fan leafs getting effected. Mayb there using all the calmag before the 10 day?
Maybe to much nitrogen from adding the calmax causing a micro element imbalance/ lock out? I'm sure to much n locks out ca and /or mg. So it would come back to nute toxicity.
 
Top