Inda-Grow + Aquamist SoG + Vert ScroG

Couple grew into the light last night, slightly burn leaf tips on a few, but nothing serious, I'm going to check things a little later, probably update with some pictures.

Compared to other lamps you've used and even the 400 inda-gro how's the daily rate of growth going on the 420? It sounds like it surprised you with getting onto the lamp itself?

Day 14 trim last night, was too tired to take pictures, but I promise I will tonight or tomorrow when I trim the other half for day 14. I'll probably do it tonight as I'd like to neem everything and perhaps get some tips on trimming the smaller ones. I'll probably keep the trimming to the bottom 6" on those (bottom 9" on the larger ones).

My only wonder about the first batch is that like 3 of them are very small. one is on the edge next to the others, so I figure in about half a week it'll be getting extra light from there. One is on the opposite side, so it gets a good bit reflected off the wall, and after trimming should get even more. One is in the center next to the largest plant... I have low hopes for this one, it's the smallest, and while it's getting light now, I'm not sure how long that will last, or if it's just too late. :/

EDIT: BALLS! I just realized my whole calendar was off in looking back at the dates I made posts. This is what it looks like now. I'm going to get in there tonight and do my first trim on the second batch today, then tomorrow check if anything else needs to be removed from the first. This has made me much more conscious of the importance of keeping up with this journal, at least in my life, so I'll be trying to make a post every day, hopefully with pictures.

nugluvr1 said:

Compared to other lamps you've used and even the 400 inda-gro how's the daily rate of growth going on the 420? It sounds like it surprised you with getting onto the lamp itself?

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It feels like they take a little longer to warm up, but I've never actually timed them. I think the extra $100 or so is worth the weight savings, the extra 20 watts and red spectrum were just bonuses. If you're hanging them from the ceiling, or only using a couple, weight may not be an issue. Growth is fantastic, and probably more vigorous than with the 400, plants would generally just grow into the grate, but maybe the grate would stop them from hitting the light? It looked like between an inch to three per day of the stretch. I should have been more on top of the temps to reduce stretch, but the AC I have just has on/off functions, and cannot adjust the temp. Day time looks to be right around 80, and light at about 66. I would have preferred 80/70, but running the AC at 70 would have meant ~85 with the lights on.

The AC is outside of the tent, obviously.

Daily growth was actually MORE with HPS (400w), but only when talking about height specifically, there was more stretching, but fewer nodes.

This is what I've come back to:

And... I'm not feeling so great. The taller ones are running out of room, and clearly look nothing like a SoG. I should have clipped all side branching going into flower on day 0, however I think the media is also somewhat to blame... it looks like it would be great in other systems, but it's not looking like a big winner in these - a couple corner cups feel totally dry. Like I said, I need to work on the air temp control, because the amount of stretching here is ridiculous. :/

Anyway, topped off the reservoirs all around, gonna get the PPM in line and then I guess I need to trim the little ones where they need it.

I added 1 1/2 cup 3% h2o2 to each res, sprayed down the bases, removed extra leaves I left during initial trimming to improve air flow, adjusted one fan lower to better reach the back through the plants, rotated a few plants to make them more evenly spaced, improving light penetration and air flow.

I had to raise my light off the ratchets, putting the cross bar through the hangers on the light. I'll have to super crop some tops if things stretch much further. I removed the plant which died, and moved a plant from a corner into it's place to get better light. Set out new fly traps. Topped off the SLH and wove some stuff into the screen.

Tomorrow I plan to change the res with the older plants if I have time, fresh nutrient solution with h2o2, the day after I'll do the younger plants... I can't store quite 40 gallons of water at a time.

Alright, so last night I changed out the reservoirs, and both are around 1350PPM and 6.0PH, I added H2O2 this time after some advice... problem though, went in today to check on things and top it all off, and another plant looks like it's heading the way the previous one which wilted did. It's leaves are drooping, a couple bottom ones were totally dry, tan, and crunchy, however their stems were still solid and wouldn't easily come off the plant.

The thing is, this plant's media is totally clean, so... I'm not sure. I sprayed everything down again with fungicide, and... FML. Any help would be great.

Well, another night... Pulled the wilted plant, and pulled another which was just too stunted to matter, would likely only serve as a breeding ground, and now that it's gone, will improve air flow. I directed both of the plants, one wasn't interesting, the other was more so, the roots outside of the media were discolored, but still felt healthy, there were no mushy roots, and no roots which pulled away. Pulling off the Sure to Grow didn't reveal much, but pulling the Rapid Rooter apart let loose quite a smell... and the base of the plant didn't look very good. The small one was much worse, it came easily out of the sure to grow, and the few roots it had were mushy - the plant might have been seven inches, I should have pulled it earlier, it was in the second system. I didn't take any pictures as there was nothing interesting to see, and I wanted them out of the house then and there.

Here are pictures of the large removed plant.

EDIT: Flushing with tap water and h2o2 right now, I'm going to refill everything with nutrient solution tomorrow along with a tea of beneficials from the local hydro store. Hopefully flushing a few times will kill everything, and then tomorrow I can introduce the beneficials to a sterile environment so they can get established before the inevitable resurgence of root rot.

Obviously the flushing is going to happen first, and then the beneficials, not together.

Things are getting better, though I've pulled a couple more plants, roots are on their way back to white after washing everything in h2o2, flushing a few times, and then adding a tea of beneficials at a ratio of 20:1, and now three days later, 160:1. Both of these are actually in excess of the ratios given in that post about teas on this forum (DWC forum specifically, read it). There are new fluffy white root tips here and there through out every root mass, dead root material is mostly gone, and damaged root material is showing signs of recovery (getting lighter, shooting out new growth). Sorry I've kept sucking at updating, but I'm obviously spending far more of my free time in the garden, rather than online... and the time I spend online is spend reading, rather than writing.

So far, I've pulled 5 plants total I believe, however one was simply pulled because it wasn't going to produce anything, there was no wilting, just figured it would only serve as a breading ground. Better to give up a couple grams than leave a retreat for the pathogen. There's another small plant I'm thinking about chopping, it doesn't look like it's going to produce much, and I thought I saw it looking a little droopy earlier, but I wasn't sure. Plants in general seem to be holding themselves erect a little better, which is nice, but I've tied the bottoms to the frame of the system to keep them steady, even a little lean in these quarters will block a lot of light to the adjacent plant.

In the end, five isn't many given the 59 left, however their yield will be effected by this. Lesson learned, mix in some beneficials as a precautionary measure (that's about all they do with chemical ferts), or add h2o2 from day one to prevent anything from going wrong in the first place... it's not much of a savior, it'll kill everything that's bad, but it also kills everything that's good, and the environment was clearly better for the bad things if they got so far... so they'll just come back without competition.

Prevention can simply mean treating before there are symptoms, doing everything perfectly doesn't mean dick, there are spores everywhere, yes, even there, and all you have to do is overlook something tiny for a day. Did you know that people who die with AIDs often die because fungus grows through their faces into their brains? Plants did not evolve to live with a compromised immune system, just like humans... those couple degrees, the dirt on those shoes you wore on a hike, etc... You're the slut who gives your garden herpes.

EDIT: Hmm, I was looking back through everything, and I noticed that one day I went in and it felt much warmer than usual. I didn't make a note of it here, but my thermometer has a highest temp save thing - it was for a humidor. I decided to look back through my A/C manual later, trying to explain to someone where the water goes on those types of A/Cs (not needing to be drained, but still having a drain plug). Perhaps what happened was that the reservoir filled - this is before I added the dehumidifier, because I didn't see any problems, then added it because it seemed like a good idea to simply have running, the compressor wouldn't come on - and when the reservoir fills, the compressor stops working, and the unit has to evaporate the water (usually evaporated to cool the compressor). If this happened, it would have just been like the A/C went out for a night on any grow, but the fan was still running, so I assumed it was. FML, I think I just guessed the lights were too low and blocking adequate air flow, so I raised them a bit, the plants didn't look like they had noticed, but I checked only an hour or two after the lights came on, they might have run uncooled that whole day.

Set up the A/C to continuous drain, just in case.

love your detailed updates bibbles! good job in the garden, i'm sure the girls will reward you in kind!

Psytranceorgy said:

love your detailed updates bibbles! good job in the garden, i'm sure the girls will reward you in kind!

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Don't speak too soon, this looks like an iron/zinc/mag deficiency to me, but I'm going to make a post in the plant problems forum before I take action; I haven't seen this happen before, so hopefully someone will know a bit more than I got from reading. The only think I can think of is upping the Cal/Mag I'm using, but we'll see.

Pulled another plant today, it was starting to show signs of wilting, and as with the other unlikely to produce much of anything - this reminds me of culling when I breed fish... remove the runts to allow to others to reach their full potential. Makes all the sense in the world, honestly.

I have to go check the PH and PPM, but here are some pictures I snapped. There were just a couple leaves here and there, only one plant is noticeable enough to take a picture of more than just a leaf.

EDIT: Other thread: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/501690-bleaching.html

Checked the leaves spot for spot, nothing new. In the bleaching thread someone mentioned that it may be that my PH crept a little too high making calcium less available. Adding back nutrients will bring it back down to 5.8, so that's the plan. Oddly, I've seen a lot of conflicting graphics as to what PH things are available at, and what rate they can be picked up, etc... Either way, looks like that's the plan for tonight. Do a little more reading first though.

[FONT=Tahoma, Calibri, Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif]I PHed everything rather than adding nutrients, I figured 1100 was fine, and if it's a PH related def, then the goods are already on hand, simply going uneaten. No change yet, but I don't really expect miracles over night. I'm going back in now to check the PH, and adjust it if needed. I probably won't post anything else tonight, have to do everything from my phone so... No pics either.[/FONT]

The existing spots themselves look a little worse, though they have not spread, and the healthy parts of the effected leaves have gotten some shine back, color is looking better all around as well. So, I'm taking it slow... I'm not really worried about the existing damage, it's not going to heal, but everything else is looking much healthier. I'm gonna top off with nutrients tonight, and try to grab some pictures, now that my keyboard is working again.~

Incidentally, I think I've run into this problem before, though it never got this far, one of the things which corrected itself as calcium became more available was the rigidity of the plants. I've always had to tie everything up to stop it all from collapsing, I thought bud weight or maybe I needed more air flow? I'm not really sure, the water I used before this run was 500PPM from the tap, but they were leaning again this time, and now standing free and strong.

I'm also gonna get in with the SLH again today, I've been leaving it to itself for the most part, just checking health and poking growing tips around the screen. Most of my attention has been focused on the SoG for obvious reasons.

Let's skip over the shame which has been my not updating.

Here's a brief catch up:
Fixed the calcium deficiency, things were looking great, power strip went out causing the water pumps and air pumps to all shut off... I'm guessing for about 20 hours? Flushed everything with H2O2 again, more beneficials, let it run like that for 24 hours, added nutrients and PHed to 5.8 today. I've lost six plants since this all started, which isn't so bad considering all of the issues which have cropped up. I'm glad I didn't chop it all and start over, to be sure my yield will be reduced, but it will still come in, and I won't have thrown away the cost of the clones. Six out of 64? imokaywiththis

I've done this strain before (probably not this phenotype though), and these colas are looking as good or better than previous bouts with the taller plants... the shorter ones... maybe not quite as awesome, but almost no popcorn, etc, etc, and they're about a week behind with no veg, so in a week, they'll probably be fatter! I've very happy with the systems, though I can now see where most of the issues came from... with the reservoir directly below the light, it can't get too close, which was probably an issue early on, and the light should be at least 8 inches above the plants - not because of heat, but to get an even amount of light over the 2x4 space (lights too low caused stretching in exterior plants on older side).

Chopping will start on the 2nd or the 9th - I've heard between eight and nine weeks, we'll see how ripe things are when the time rolls around, and I'll make my own judgement. I kind of doubt things will be ready on the 2nd, there's still new growth everywhere, hairs are all still white, etc...

ADDITIONAL: One thing I've noticed is that, even with the other induction light, lower flowers would be lighter and smaller, with these 420W lights, only the lowest are noticeably lighter or smaller (on the older plants), and honestly, those shouldn't be there, and the plants should be shorter.

SLH: Lots of neglect, ho hum, things are looking fantastic, actually... however they will need to either be totally rescreened, or... if I happen to count and there are enough branches to make clones for my next run in SoG, hurrhurr. I'm not really sure what I'm going to do with these, probably just rescreen them, maybe flower them without screens, blah. -_-

I'm going to see if I can figure that out today, I'll take pictures and what not later. :/

EDIT: You know, given a lot of the things I've read, I think losing only six plants

Hi bibbles, sorry about all the troubles your having with this batch, we've all been there Hopefully next go around will be problem free. One thought I had is that from all the research I've done, there is a significant difference between using the 3% H2O2 that you get at CVS and the food grade 35% H2O2 which is really what we should all be using. They add all kinds of stabilizers to the 3% stuff that can bind to roots and even cause lockout in some cases. You may have no problems using it, and the food grade stuff is hard to come by, but if you can get it, I think it's worth it. It's a watched chemical though so have your grow shop order it for you. It's great for oxygenating roots as well as keeping mold/bacteria/fungus away. Also you could try some home made Clear-Rez which is just HTC brand pool shock powder sold at any True Value, mixed at about a tsp to a pint or quart of water depending on the desired concentration. Put a few tsp of this mixture into the rez to kill nasties. Has worked well for me. I had a terrible white slime infection on my clones, and I had violent downward pH drift as a result. I had to throw the clones out but I ran a high dose of shock through my cloner for a few days, cleaned it and am starting over. The pH is stable and the infection seems to be gone. I don't know if either of these suggestions have any appeal to you but it's all I can think of. Oh and you might want to look into Myco-Grow which is a special formula of beneficial microorganisms sold by Fungi Perfecti. There's a big thread on it here: https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html

How are you liking the Inda-Gro? I am considering getting one and can't decide between that and an LED like the Pro Grow or maybe the 357 Magnum Plus. The Inda-Gro is a bit cheaper than the others and also has a full spectrum which I have come to believe may actually be beneficial as opposed to LED which just targets a few specific wavelengths. There's very little independent info on the Inda-Gro and even fewer journals; yours being one of 2 that I have found. So what's your opinion of the light? Is it comparable to a 600W HPS or even a 1000W in terms of yield and quality? Should I pull the trigger on one?

Redoctober said:

Hi bibbles, sorry about all the troubles your having with this batch, we've all been there Hopefully next go around will be problem free. One thought I had is that from all the research I've done, there is a significant difference between using the 3% H2O2 that you get at CVS and the food grade 35% H2O2 which is really what we should all be using. They add all kinds of stabilizers to the 3% stuff that can bind to roots and even cause lockout in some cases. You may have no problems using it, and the food grade stuff is hard to come by, but if you can get it, I think it's worth it. It's a watched chemical though so have your grow shop order it for you. It's great for oxygenating roots as well as keeping mold/bacteria/fungus away. Also you could try some home made Clear-Rez which is just HTC brand pool shock powder sold at any True Value, mixed at about a tsp to a pint or quart of water depending on the desired concentration. Put a few tsp of this mixture into the rez to kill nasties. Has worked well for me. I had a terrible white slime infection on my clones, and I had violent downward pH drift as a result. I had to throw the clones out but I ran a high dose of shock through my cloner for a few days, cleaned it and am starting over. The pH is stable and the infection seems to be gone. I don't know if either of these suggestions have any appeal to you but it's all I can think of. Oh and you might want to look into Myco-Grow which is a special formula of beneficial microorganisms sold by Fungi Perfecti. There's a big thread on it here: https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html

How are you liking the Inda-Gro? I am considering getting one and can't decide between that and an LED like the Pro Grow or maybe the 357 Magnum Plus. The Inda-Gro is a bit cheaper than the others and also has a full spectrum which I have come to believe may actually be beneficial as opposed to LED which just targets a few specific wavelengths. There's very little independent info on the Inda-Gro and even fewer journals; yours being one of 2 that I have found. So what's your opinion of the light? Is it comparable to a 600W HPS or even a 1000W in terms of yield and quality? Should I pull the trigger on one?

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Honestly, it just got to the point where I decided to use this as a trial by fire, so that I would be able to avoid them next round, and trying to keep things on point seemed better that trying to treat symptoms. I'm harvesting tomorrow, and honestly, as things look now, it was totally worth finishing out. I know I fail at posting pictures, but running my lights at night ended up clashing badly with my schedule, so what little time I have has been spent caring for the garden, rather than talking about it. Next round they will run during the day, as apparently there is no peak/off charge difference, and I think I might actually save power as my A/C will just turn off at night with no heat sources to cool, rather than running to cool the sun, and then running to cool the lights. Did some math, it should run at 150% during the day, but only 10% at night, so I should save 20% on the power for the A/C, and either way, I'll be able to take better care of things.

I was using 10% h2o2 from the hydro store, and it seemed like it would kill off everything, both good and bad, and then the bad would come back unchallenged. The h2o2 flush followed by tea was good. Come Monday I should have new plants hitting the system, and I'm currently brewing a tea composed of Progress Earth's Inoculate (gave up looking for castings, and this is what was used in the tea I bought, which worked very well), Seaplex, Earth Tonic, Molasses, and MycoGrow Soluble. It probably costs a bit more than the tea mentioned in that thread, but since I'm using it in a clean res, so there are no sad roots or anything to eat, and aero, so there's no soil, etc... I figured the extra food for the little guys was probably a good move, and a few more trace nutrients for the plants won't hurt.

H2o2 doesn't kill all the bad guys, but it does kill all the good guys, so... this seemed like a better option, and in the long run, shouldn't be too much more.

As for the induction lights, color me impressed as hell. The 400W light was good, but these 420W lights are something else. Lower buds are equally mature to the top, albeit a bit smaller. Given all the problems I've crashed into, I think harvest will still be more than acceptable (that's all I'm willing to say, don't count your eggs, etc., etc.). Something most people overlook with LED lighting is that... with most, you can only light the area directly below them, as they use focused lenses to get the most out of their LEDs (read: artificially inflate ratings), and while the induction lights still won't give you the versatility of whatever-the-fuck-reflector-you-want, they do cover 4x4 very well. I haven't used LED, but after about three months of researching, my final decision didn't even involve LEDs. The only really successful uses I've seen end up using more power than induction, and producing more heat, while lighting a smaller area.

Honestly, the only think I neglected to weigh when I was looking into them, was the fact that it's significantly easier to see your plants, or any bugs, etc, etc... as the light isn't orange/purple, it's like being outside. I bought the 400W light, used it through two grows, and went back for more - the second time they had 420W lights, grabbed two, and... I'll probably replace my current 400W with another 420W when I'm done with the so far absent vertical ScroG. The 400 didn't have the same effect on the bottom buds, but should be just as good with a flat canopy, as there won't be any bottom buds.

So, I would recommend them, but I would also recommend that you balance everything before you make a choice, take into account the heat each generates, how that will effect your room, can they be mounted on a light mover, how much do they weigh (if using a tent), do you have an A/C, or have you just been relying on cool tubes, etc, etc... for my garden, I wouldn't make any other choice, but your garden is your garden, so step away from the light science for a moment, and remember that everything has to work together (if you haven't already).

Also, the delivery box WILL say "Agricultural Induction Lighting" on the outside, in fairly obvious lettering, if that's an issue. I mentioned that to them when I got the 400W, but I can easily see people not buying them because... I've heard stories about people trying to explain away questions when boxes showed a filter or something, but there wouldn't be questions, other than perhaps WHAT you were growing... so, just keep that in mind.

PS. Clearly I haven't been posting because I have nothing to say, lol, just grinding way too hard. Cleaning everything outside the tent today for harvest tomorrow, run with bleach after harvest tomorrow night, wash out in the morning, pick up clones, and hopefully have them in by lights out, if not, I'll give them one day of veg, but these clones are suppose to be ~12" now, so... that's more than tall enough.

EDIT: Also, of course, ignore lumen ratings, as your plants are not made of eye-balls. :/

14 straight hours of trimming later (probably could have gone faster, but I like to do it all by hand, clippers are just for separating bud from stem, leaves get pinched out so they are totally removed, rather than just the tip), it's done. I know I said I would post pictures, but I had to get shit clean, as my new clones have already arrived, and I wanted the trash gone before they showed up. I'll take some pictures of things drying as soon as I finish this cigarette though, as well as some WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT ALGEA AND SHIT RESISTANT @ SURE-TO-GROW.

Seriously, back to hydroton like I read about it in a future almanac; you'd never guess what I watched while trimming.

EDIT: Why is formatting totally lost when editing a post? Or at least, when advanced editing a post. Anyway, first thing's first... when did Arnold Palmer become a lush?

Anyway, it looks like I outright lost five plants; two produced female flowers but no trichomes, or so few I was having trouble finding them; four produced only about a gram each, or so I'm assuming; I've never had problems like this before, so while I'm hesitant to blame something other than myself, Sure to Grow is clearly not a winner (though, doing quite well in the DWC sativas, other than them developing a few deficiencies due to my neglect; like, outright forgetting to feed them most of the time, because I'm busy with the others, FML, should be an easy fix though). I've grown this strain before, from another breeder, as well, without these problems.

So, was it worth it to finish out the grow? We'll see when things are dry, but given that I didn't have the extra cash on hand for more clones, I'm going to say that it was the obvious choice, and while it was hell, I feel I've emerged with a wealth of information which would have otherwise taken much more time. Trial by fire, eh?

So, now that my new clones have arrived, and I have time to get the SLH back on track, hopefully things will turn around. Unfortunately, someone neglected to mention that these clones were in dirt... Transplanting them shouldn't be too ridiculous though, B-1 on hand, foliar feed tonight and tomorrow, transplant on Wednesday (including the B-1 in the wash to remove dirt, and in the res, along with my new beneficial tea).

I do still have the option of returning them, incase soil doesn't work for me, and finding another source, but these are fucking beautiful, and I'm pretty down for Tangerine Dream, Chocolope, and Acapulco Gold - which I haven't seen available from anyone else... it's all indicas 'round here.

hey bibbles! nice grow!

I read somewhere in this journal that you had problems with nutes etc. imho, the most common culprit is over-"treating" your water. If you live in a bigger city or suburb, you should be able to access your local water department webpage. If they are on top of their shit, they should have a big PDF file with the alkalinity, caco3 ppms etc and....ph.

your ppms, at least the ones ive read, are way too high. for example, if your plant is below about 2 weeks of age, even with an established root system, your ppm level should read around 600-800, not 1100. In fact, I run a really low average ppm of about 600 in veg and 900 in bloom and ive never had any nute related problems, and definitely no leaf warping.

as for h202, its a pretty annoying fix to a sterile hydroponic system, as you need to add it every day, all the time because even though it oxygenates your roots, it evaporate into h20 and o2 in about 4 hours anyways. Plus, you should have a nice airstone in any system, except possibly ebb n flow.

chlorine and copper sulfides are usually the ways in which commercial growers (like Monsanto for example) reduce hardness and keep bacteria levels low. if you cant find chlorine, there are other products such as dutch master gold zone. in a beneficial-bacteria feeding routine, you wouldnt want to use any h202 or chlorine, and this might be a better option for you since your temps are a little on the higher side.

theinhibitor said:

hey bibbles! nice grow!

I read somewhere in this journal that you had problems with nutes etc. imho, the most common culprit is over-"treating" your water. If you live in a bigger city or suburb, you should be able to access your local water department webpage. If they are on top of their shit, they should have a big PDF file with the alkalinity, caco3 ppms etc and....ph.

your ppms, at least the ones ive read, are way too high. for example, if your plant is below about 2 weeks of age, even with an established root system, your ppm level should read around 600-800, not 1100. In fact, I run a really low average ppm of about 600 in veg and 900 in bloom and ive never had any nute related problems, and definitely no leaf warping.

as for h202, its a pretty annoying fix to a sterile hydroponic system, as you need to add it every day, all the time because even though it oxygenates your roots, it evaporate into h20 and o2 in about 4 hours anyways. Plus, you should have a nice airstone in any system, except possibly ebb n flow.

chlorine and copper sulfides are usually the ways in which commercial growers (like Monsanto for example) reduce hardness and keep bacteria levels low. if you cant find chlorine, there are other products such as dutch master gold zone. in a beneficial-bacteria feeding routine, you wouldnt want to use any h202 or chlorine, and this might be a better option for you since your temps are a little on the higher side.

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I believe I may have been editing that last post while you were posting this. My tap water is >500PPM (thus my switching to R/O), if you fill a glass and walk away, calcium will start to visibly precipitate in about ten minutes, I doubt they're on top of anything; it took me two days of searching and calling to find someone to tell me that there is no on/off peak power. 1300 is the Lucas Formula, so I just followed that, this time I intend to use bennies (res temp is actually ~71° most of the time, which is still on the high end, but any listings higher were caused by my hanging the lights too low), B-1, and of course start with the air stones installed... Probably start at like 600PPM, and then ramp up to ~1000, but probably not as high as 1300. (My first grow, following the bottle from GH, with tap water, 2000+PPM, HPS in cool tubes, but no A/C, in the middle of SoCal summer, res temps in the 80s, air in the 90s, and I had FAR less problems... so I'm hesitant to simply put it all down to environment. Also, clones, not seeds, so the PPM suggested isn't quite the same... but you still have a completely fair point.)

I still find it a little weird that airstones would be needed in aeroponics, at least in this system, but they did help. I figured the enormous surface area of the res (2'x4'), the fact that there was constant surface movement, and hell, water spraying through the air... eh... my presumptions were based on aquarium stuff, and four plants per square foot obviously need the above and beyond.

EDIT: Hurr, and thank you.