Has anyone seen this before?

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bulimic

Well-Known Member
i see them clear as day with my 60x scope, are you sure you're thinking of the right pest? also i just looked at some leaves i pulled off and there are dead russets on it after being sprayed and i haven't even finished today's (the second day of application) sprayings so Nuke Em definitely works... maybe you just didn't use the stronger dose they put on the label? I also sprayed down the entire outside and inside of the tent to kill anything lingering but definitely going to be spraying and cleaning the inside/outside like crazy to prevent any eggs or bugs from hiding. as mentioned in my posts, i am a couple of weeks into flowering and buds are forming so spraying Avid or Forbid on them really isn't a good idea if i don't want to poison anyone. have you tried nematodes or occidentalis? i am thinking of adding the occidentalis a few days after my third application day of Nuke Em.
 
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Chronic811

Well-Known Member
bulimic said:
i see them clear as day with my 60x scope, are you sure you're thinking of the right pest? also i just looked at some leaves i pulled off and there are dead russets on it after being sprayed and i haven't even finished today's (the second day of application) sprayings so Nuke Em definitely works... maybe you just didn't use the stronger dose they put on the label? I also sprayed down the entire outside and inside of the tent to kill anything lingering but definitely going to be spraying and cleaning the inside/outside like crazy to prevent any eggs or bugs from hiding. as mentioned in my posts, i am a couple of weeks into flowering and buds are forming so spraying Avid or Forbid on them really isn't a good idea if i don't want to poison anyone. have you tried nematodes or occidentalis? i am thinking of adding the occidentalis a few days after my third application day of Nuke Em.
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Can you still see eggs? Einstein oil/neem oil will take the eggs offs the stems in one spray. About 5-7 ml per quart does the trick and it’s not to late in bloom.

I once spent like a month spraying every chemical know to man at some broad mite infested plants that I knew I was throwing away. I just wanted to find out what works and not. And after 3 weeks of spraying forbid, pyrethrums, nuke em, trifecta. And I could still see eggs so the only thing I had left was some Einstein oil so I hit them with it and 2 days later the eggs were gone
 
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bulimic

Well-Known Member
Chronic811 said:
Can you still see eggs? Einstein oil/neem oil will take the eggs offs the stems in one spray. About 5-7 ml per quart does the trick and it’s not to late in bloom.

I once spent like a month spraying every chemical know to man at some broad mite infested plants that I knew I was throwing away. I just wanted to find out what works and not. And after 3 weeks of spraying forbid, pyrethrums, nuke em, trifecta. And I could still see eggs so the only thing I had left was some Einstein oil so I hit them with it and 2 days later the eggs were gone
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i don't see many eggs at all but i did see one or two each on the leaves i pulled this morning. i'll spray the neem on the stems today as well probably closer to lights off.
 
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Chronic811

Well-Known Member
Good idea neem can burn with lights on. Just do one spray as you are starting to get late in flower for something as stinky as neem
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Trust in what the guy above says!

I saw some pretty odd answers here..

Using Neem in the feed solution is, well, not a great idea,,period!
If you invest in any Myco's of fungal's to add to your soil...The use of Neem in your feed solution is killing them!

Neem has a true shelf life of about nil. Especially in the concentrated form. Once the stuff has made contact with O2 and light.....It's becoming worthless fast....
I have issues with putting any "oil" on my plants.

Kill them with heat and win the battle? Not very fucking likely! There will be more then a few that make it through....They simply will restart the cycle.

Seeing Russet mites in some of the pictures shared here is uncommon. You need to be looking through something with 100x at least...
Seeing the ones that look like a brown rust type fungus on the stem and leaf petiole. More then likely what I said. A Brown "Rust" fungus.

To actually become that infested....Somebody had to be SLEEPING on that grow!
99% of the time you will never "see" a Russet or a Broad mite.

The Russets tend to attack lower branching and this in turn effects upper plant structure, especially new growth as an indicator. They will move up the stem and into branching so that is where to concentrate any attempt to kill them off.

You will not kill off Broad or Russet mites with any Neem or simple contact killer like pyrethrin's. No oil based natural or insecticide soap will either. So you might as well forget about "natural or organic" things that may claim to either. They won't!

Bottom line on Russet or Broad mite killing..

You need to use FORBID 4F and AVID in a rotating spray method that is done by starting with FORBID then 5 days later you use the AVID and repeat this for 3 weeks at least. You need to get behind any egg hatch that the insecticides might have missed as eggs (FORBID does limited egg killing - depends on age of the egg).

The guy who posted before me. We had Russets at about the same time. They took us 4 weeks (and a cpl others longer {that had tried "natural" methods first})...
While FORBID does not make for "super mites" These other things like pyrethrin's DO! Mites not killed outright by contact killers become immune to the stuff your trying to kill them with.
This is true for their off spring too!

That point alone tells you that NOT being thorough in your use of the substance you choose. Will come back and make it worse!





You won't "see" them with a 60X scope.....A Russet mite is the diameter of a White fly leg! That is small!!!!
The damage they do will begin to show as what looks like a confusing cross of micro def's. Sulfur and Iron, yet it's not quite right either....As you struggle with attempting to head off the micro def. Things do not improve and the new growth and the new leaves just behind it, begin to get thin and show a pronounced crinkle between the leaf veins.....This then progresses to crinkly adult leaves (all as the effected parts grow and age).

These infestations are now getting old....The plant will produce small and low potency buds. By this time, any attempt to propagate the plant will only give you "odd" running plants that don't resemble the mother and her growth or quality at all.. This is because the plant has been damaged on the genetic level... YES, bad bug infestations of some type's, can affect a plant's genetic make-up..

If you choose to save the run by using what I said and how I said it!
Be done with that strain unless you start new seeds!

HUGELY IMPORTANT THING!

No matter what you choose to do. Either treat the plants or burn them and start over.
You MUST sanitize the whole grow area! Inside, outside, under, on top, the floor, the walls, the ceiling, (of the room the tent is in too) ANYTHING that is in that room and all things used in the grow!

Use a 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water as the cleaner. Spray it on and leave it there! You can rinse off the pots and such when done but, leave the spray on everything else (the bleach smell will go away in time)

Now,,,start over...

It does look like a mite infestation of some nasty type.....
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^^^ What this guy said.!!!!

You're going to need the big dawgs for cyclomen or russet mites. 7wks is long enough to still be ok to use.

I've used cucumeris, they are cheap but you need to apply at start of grow. Neem meal is what you want as a soil additive. Neem oil clogs the roots. Neem meal will and does solve fungus gnat in soil. So do SF nematodes and are a better additive to use if applying through your nute solution.

Swirskii are expensive but will eat em good too, better than cucumeris.

I'd buy a 1oz sample bottle of one of the big boy miticides and then apply cucumeris after.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Chronic811 said:
Check into green lace wings for predators. I’ve never used them but they sound like they bring some real knock down power from what I’ve read when compared to other predators
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They too big for cyclamen or russet, they like bigger meals. But they eat the shit out of some spider mites and aphids!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
bulimic said:
i am a couple of weeks into flowering and buds are forming so spraying Avid or Forbid on them really isn't a good idea if i don't want to poison anyone. have you tried nematodes or occidentalis? i am thinking of adding the occidentalis a few days after my third application day of Nuke Em.
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Those are not Russet mites you have, if you can "see" them with a 60X...You have another Mite!

NO type of beneficial insect will even begin to control Russet, Broad mites

There are SOOO many different mites out there that maybe attacking your grow!

As far as FORBID hurting somebody......Not likely, read up on just what something is. The label warnings are generic and required by the Government...Read about the product and then about the active chemical in it.

The Acid (active chemical in Forbid) used to make FORBID is organic but, in the amounts needed, they "make it in a lab" so it's not "organic" by default. BTW, if you use hand lotion, our putting that acid/active chemical, on your skin! IT's in almost every hand lotion on the market.
AVID is pretty damn safe too. Works the same way and neither are "systemic".......They have effective life's of about 12 days and a trace half life of 18.

I've been doing this for likely longer then you have been alive.....Been in the growing of plants and farming for all my life...

Start listening to Satori and Chief running fist too.....
 
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bulimic

Well-Known Member
Chronic811 said:
It’s way to late for the big dogs. Heck 2 weeks before flower is pushing it with forbid and such
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yeah, labs in California test for it at certain levels and i don't want to risk breathing that in because i don't know how much will put it at those levels.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Forbid is fine at 7wks. Avid, no. They treat fields for agriculture with spiromesifen and within 30 days theres 0ppm.

You do you, I really don't care lol just if you wanted to save a crop that's the way I'd go. :bigjoint:
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Chronic811 said:
It’s way to late for the big dogs. Heck 2 weeks before flower is pushing it with forbid and such
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You might be scary if you knew what you were talking about.

You don't. AT ALL!

The guy say's he's only 2 weeks in. He can safely use FORBID..

Simply a light misting on the tops of the leaves only. These are not Russet or Broad mites. The single treatment (if he got every leaf and hit the soil and pot with a pyrethrin) should be enough.

bulimic said:
yeah, labs in California test for it at certain levels and i don't want to risk breathing that in because i don't know how much will put it at those levels.
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Do what you want but, you could treat with Forbid and be done if you liked. Safely too.
Breath of what? Forbid over spray? Tox reports state that it is basically none toxic to humans at field delivered rates...


If your selling this to a disp. Good fucking luck dude. The testers will find dead bugs and eggs on the material.. NO SALE!
 
C

Chronic811

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
You might be scary if you knew what you were talking about.

You don't. AT ALL!

The guy say's he's only 2 weeks in. He can safely use FORBID..

Simply a light misting on the tops of the leaves only. These are not Russet or Broad mites. The single treatment (if he got every leaf and hit the soil and pot with a pyrethrin) should be enough.



Do what you want but, you could treat with Forbid and be done if you liked. Safely too.
Breath of what? Forbid over spray? Tox reports state that it is basically none toxic to humans at field delivered rates...


If your selling this to a disp. Good fucking luck dude. The testers will find dead bugs and eggs on the material.. NO SALE!
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Do you even smoke weed? Or just growing for money ?
 
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Chronic811

Well-Known Member
This guy says toxic reports say it’s not toxic yet it’s on the stop sale list in every state with legal weed and the testing companies are testing the buds to make sure it’s not being used
 
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bulimic

Well-Known Member
i ordered the Forbid off of eBay so i'll see if they actually ship it. i took the scope out and looked at some leaves i drenched again in Nuke Em this morning and i'm seeing mostly dead mites now. i'm going to spray another strong dose and drench them today, then again in a couple more days. if the Forbid ships it should be here by Friday and i'll spray them down with that to hopefully wipe out anything left behind from the Nuke Em.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Chronic811 said:
This guy says toxic reports say it’s not toxic yet it’s on the stop sale list in every state with legal weed and the testing companies are testing the buds to make sure it’s not being used
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I told you guys to actually READ up on FORBID and the active chemical in it!

Any state (especially over reactive and restrictive Cali) can make laws about anything they want and for whatever reason they see fit.
It is up to YOU. John Q Public to find the truth!

Look up tox reports.
Look up the active chemical

Read more then 1 source!

Above all, remember this first. This stuff is used at TWICE the strength on produce that you eat all the time. It is not systemic. It kills mites by blocking lipid fat use by the bugs digestive system, it desiccates them.
This is the SAME way insecticide soaps kill but, these soaps are not effective on mites!

In testing farm workers that have mixed and applied the chemical, or have picked treated fruit. Not one has displayed any effect from the chemical or shown elevated levels of the chemical in there bodies..

Dig deep for your answers and never compare one insecticide with another for toxicity with out fully reading up on it. The same goes for using one!
Do not take the label for what is really the tox level of the active chemical. These labels are generic and cover a group of ratings made by the Federal Gov.

It is YOUR responsibility as the user of ANY chemical to research just EXACTLY what it is, your thinking of using and how to do it properly! Because the label tells you nothing but, how to apply it!

BTW, somebody equated Eagle 20 to forbid. WRONG! E 20, the active chem in it. Is measured in half life's (any chemical applied to plants has that measurement). It also, when heated, gives off cyanide gas! Understand why that chemical is a no - no for cannabis? And yet if you take the time to read state reports on commercial grow operations. You will find many getting busted for having measurable amounts of this chem in their products.... Co, Canada, Cali,,,they all get places doing it. The information is out there, YOU just have to find it....

Get my point now?
 
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