Guerrilla grower's nightmare Leaf spot disease

unohu69

unohu69

Well-Known Member
Aah Hah, Finally know what this is. I took pics of this before. they should be in my album, but im not a 100% sure if they uploaded correctly yet.
 
T

Tennis1

Active Member
tristynhawk said:
Well good luck man, hope it works out for ya. Was you treating before the disease appeared or afterwards.
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I treated after they were infected. Just crazy, because I didn't have any problems with this disease last year in the exact same spot. They might make it.
 
tristynhawk

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
Tennis1 said:
I treated after they were infected. Just crazy, because I didn't have any problems with this disease last year in the exact same spot. They might make it.
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you need to mix it at 2 ounces a gallon even throw a pinch extra. Spray good the first time and coat the undersides of the leaves good. Remove all infected foliage and move it away from plant. If your going to use your spot again next clear all the debris and plant material from your area to be used . I would even treat it with a sulfur dust or sulfur treated rose food for the winter. And again in the spring, it was mentioned a few pages back and seems like a good idea to me.
 
T

Tennis1

Active Member
Will do trist. The disease seems to be slowing down a bit. Not sure if its the cooler nights or from spraying, maybe both idk. Good news is that flowering is going well. Some really cloudy white trichomes on my early ones. Lovin that!!
 
tristynhawk

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
Tennis1 said:
Will do trist. The disease seems to be slowing down a bit. Not sure if its the cooler nights or from spraying, maybe both idk. Good news is that flowering is going well. Some really cloudy white trichomes on my early ones. Lovin that!!
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great news tennis glad to hear it. And try not to spray at least 2 weeks before harvest. But the disease is supposed to slack off in sept.
 
S

SaneLawsMake4SaneSociety

Well-Known Member
www.overgrow.com said:
^^^^^^^ Yeah, I looked at the MSDS and it doesn't look any different that most other fungicides or pesticides...... or very much different than Exel LG either for that matter. The Eagle 20 says that skin contact merely causes irritation same as Exel LG. And that prolonged exposure is unlikely to cause absorption of anything harmful. It has low toxicity if swallowed even. That being said, it contains small amounts of Napthalene which has been labeled by the International Agency for Research on Cancer as a "possible carcinogenic substance" . The U.S. EPA has placed naphthalene in Group D: NOT classifiable as a carcinogen (U.S. EPA, 1994a). The International Agency for Research on Cancer has NOT classified naphthalene for its carcinogenicity (IARC, 1987a).

At worst, in some cases LARGE AMOUNTS of VERY PROLONGED EXPOSURE of a single trace ingredient (OVER 2 STRAIGHT YEARS OF NEARLY NON-STOP VAPOR EXPOSURE) caused SOME rats to exhibit evidence of carcinogenic activity. And we're talking pure Napthalene. Besides this, once in the atmosphere, naphthalene rapidly photodegrades (half-life 3-8 hr). And AGAIN, we're talking direct application of this chemical which Eagle 20 contains trace amounts of...... which cigarette smoke also contains.

Point being, you can get the stuff on your skin and in your eyes with mild irritation, you can drink the shit and not get ill..... just don't distill the napthalene out....... become a 3 ounce rat and huff it and bathe in it for two years.... or you could possibly get sick, lol. Point is, the stuff is perfectly acceptable to use in the vegetative plant state and probably in the first few weeks of flowering for that matter. Anything in it that could possibly be harmful is perfectly safe in trace amounts and perfectly safe since it rapidly breaks down as well. I can't say what works or not if I haven't tried it, but if you have fungal problems Eagle 20 can and will cure it with no messing around.
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Oh my goodness.


You made a bunch of shit up, mixed in your opinions, and then stated it all like its all fact.

Tristyn, I respectfully ask that you check the MSDS's against overgrows statements, and consider banning him, if making things up, mixing it with opinion, throwing in a red herring (naphthalene) then presenting it as fact is a bannable offense. (Your profile says you are a mod, hence the request here.)

Please, everyone. Read the MSDS's.

Don't take my word for it, READ THEM.

Napthalene is the least of your worries on that shit.

Here are my assertions:

Eagle 20's MSDS is not at all like "Most other fungicides", to say it is far too general to have any real possibility of usefulness in the context of this discussion.

Drinking it would be a very very very bad idea. Refer to the section of the MSDS "Note to physician"

Getting it on your skin is a pretty bad idea, too....see "Exposure Guidelines", and the paragraph below it.

Eagle 20 is so toxic, you should not store it NEAR food or water ...not even near it, in a closed fucking container. (see "Storage")

There's more, but hopefully, that is enough to get something done.

Listen, I would love a one stop solution to the leaf spot issue, but Eagle 20 is clearly way more toxic....If someone on RIU wants to make the decision to use a product after weighing the pros and cons, then that is cool. I know there are people who have different feelings than I about toxicity, and we should respect other peoples opinions, if we want our own to be respected.

But that rant about Eagle 20 was clearly intentionally misleading, to say the least. Spreading lies like that does us all a disservice.
 
tristynhawk

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
I can truthfully say that i had no intentions of drinking it, and as for the storage methods this how i would treat any fungicide. I will read through the msds Soon though i have sorta been caught in my plants lately, have a some harvesting goin on.
 
tristynhawk

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
After further reading i will for sure run with eagle 20 next year, i think what OG was trying to get across is it's no more dangerous then any other systemetic fungicide. Common sense tells you to use precautions with all fungicides and even pesticides. I wouldn't drink either of them or think of storing any fungicide with my food,
wear proper gear and spray away is what im going to do.
peace tristynhawk.

ps. you should use precautions with the liquid copper also if no has read the labels. Almost everything is harmful in today's world just ask The state of California.
 
G

GangaDwarf

Member
Wow, I've been growing off and on for about 15 years and I've seen this problem a lot here in NC. Never knew the name of it until I read this thread. Thanks for the info.
 
M

mtbazz

Well-Known Member
This just started showing up to a large extent on the east coast within the past 3-5 years. Three years ago I lost almost my whole crop. this year I have been more fortunate and have found a strain or two that seem to be resistant, but I am still expecting losses. I started this year out counting a yield of 5 lbs (that figured was AFTER I factored in losses from insects, disease, storm damage,etc..but this stuff has been a battle this year also. If I get two pounds now I will be lucky, and dont really expect more than a pound.

LC definitely holds it at bay. The key thing is to use the maximum does possible, and than hit it again with an even larger does a few days later. I use 2 ounces per gallon of water one day, and than come back out a few days later and hit them with three ounces per gallon of water to take care of any stragglers that may develop a resistance.
The second key thing is to DRENCH the plant. It won't kill it or hurt it.

After a heavy rainfall you will need to apply it again, and even if there is no rain a touch up application once a week is not a bad idea.

Also, spray the surrounding vegetation, and the ground surrounding your plant, remove afflicted foilage (preferably carrying it back out with you).

This shit is a plant killer, and the spores can live for years in the surrounding soil.

There is another website that has a sticky in the outdoors growers forum with ALOT more information about this disease.
 
W

Waiakeauka

Well-Known Member
mtbazz said:
This just started showing up to a large extent on the east coast within the past 3-5 years. Three years ago I lost almost my whole crop. this year I have been more fortunate and have found a strain or two that seem to be resistant, but I am still expecting losses. I started this year out counting a yield of 5 lbs (that figured was AFTER I factored in losses from insects, disease, storm damage,etc..but this stuff has been a battle this year also. If I get two pounds now I will be lucky, and dont really expect more than a pound.

LC definitely holds it at bay. The key thing is to use the maximum does possible, and than hit it again with an even larger does a few days later. I use 2 ounces per gallon of water one day, and than come back out a few days later and hit them with three ounces per gallon of water to take care of any stragglers that may develop a resistance.
The second key thing is to DRENCH the plant. It won't kill it or hurt it.

After a heavy rainfall you will need to apply it again, and even if there is no rain a touch up application once a week is not a bad idea.

Also, spray the surrounding vegetation, and the ground surrounding your plant, remove afflicted foilage (preferably carrying it back out with you).

This shit is a plant killer, and the spores can live for years in the surrounding soil.

There is another website that has a sticky in the outdoors growers forum with ALOT more information about this disease.
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Can you provide a link to the website? Thank You!
 
done

done

Member
I too have this problem , on shrubs, perinnial beds, & mj plants ( indoor & out ). Its all over my community. Im watching my plants die..
 
petert

petert

Well-Known Member
Well, then why don't you let us in on the secret of ridding your plants of "spotted leaf disease". If it's a kind of fungus won't Neem oil, or Organicide take care of it?
 
The*Mad*Hatter

The*Mad*Hatter

Well-Known Member
no fungus problems for me yet, but spider mites have taking hold of my plant, just picked up some neem oil yesterday...hate those lil bastards
 
M

mtbazz

Well-Known Member
Waiakeauka said:
Can you provide a link to the website? Thank You!
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I am unable to do so, as I believe it violates the TOS of this website, hit me up with a PM though and I think that should be ok.


This is stuff is actually also known as "leaf blight", "spotted blight", or "late blight". It is a VERY aggresive fungus, and so far the only thing that really seems to work and is SAFE to use is Liquid Copper at the maximum dosage. ANything less than the maximum dosage can leave survivors that may be more resistant/immune to it. Not only is the maximum dosage needed, but repeated applications every 7 days or after a rainfall are required.

Once you see the first signs of this infection, unless you do something to take care of it right away, you can loose an entire plant within a week.
 
M

mtbazz

Well-Known Member
Ok..I just posted a link containing more information about this in my profile, hopefully the mods here will allow that. Good luck.
 
C

cchamp

Member
I've been aggresively fighting it for about 3 weeks now with liquid copper. I think I've slowed it down but it surely hasn't stopped. Everything in the woods is covered with it. Its like treating one person for TB in a room full of people with TB. Hopefully I can ride it out one more month. My plants have lost significant foliage though.
 
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