Guano late in flower?

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/787337-2nd-grow-1st-scrog-2x3-3.html#post10223375
Week 7 flower, would it benefit from top dressing now or a tea with either 10-10-1 peruvian sean bird, or probably not this guano---> I have desert bat guano but thats better used in veg 8-2-1? I will post a link to my grow journal since It already has all the info about the grow. I will note I am damn near harvest on one of my strains which one top already has amber trichs, but nowhere else, yet. The last week yellowing has really set in, I think I am ready to run just water molasses but I am new to organics and whatever I do I am sure to learn from it.

i would do crab meal in a tea.. imo more effective..

http://www.neptunesharvest.com/cs-604.html

Neptunes harvest it great! Been using the fish/kelp throughout this grow. Great foliar in veg too. I will check that out, and was hoping to make my own crab meal, via crayfish, which are abundant. Just picked up those two guanos I mentioned and didnt know if it was too late for this round to use it for any benefit. I start with promix with seabased compost and mykos for a base and am recycling soil. I have the soil from my first grow cooking, will be adding some of this guano to that for my flowering pot transplants. But anyways, just wanted to know if it would hurt or help at this point. I suppose if I top dress now and the plants dont uptake anything from it, it will still be in the soil.

Mmmm crawdads, cajun style. Yum.

It wont hurt to add it now.

You could use a finishing tea. I'll have to get back to you on the ingredients.

Personally I wouldn't add any substantial NPK sources at week 7. If they are fading too fast, I might give a little molasses or fish hydrolysate to kick start the nutrient cycling a little. That's about it.

SpicySativa said:

If they are fading too fast, I might give a little molasses or fish hydrolysate to kick start the nutrient cycling a little. That's about it.

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Can you expand on this? I have kinda heard the opposite:

• how is molasses helping avert fade? jump start nutrient cycle, to provide N from existing soil? I did read where mol may increase fade by binding N?
• my fish hydrolysate (neptune's) is 2/4/1. I thought you had to feed more N than P to counter a fade. I do have some fish emulsion (alaska) at 5/1/1, and I have used this to provide N in veg and counter fade in flower, but have not added late to flower.

I believe neptunes harvest can be used strait thru till harvest, I have one strain with trichs turning amber already. I havnt decided if I might top dress with a small about on the other two that have another week or two.

mrwood said:

Can you expand on this? I have kinda heard the opposite:

• how is molasses helping avert fade? jump start nutrient cycle, to provide N from existing soil? I did read where mol may increase fade by binding N?
• my fish hydrolysate (neptune's) is 2/4/1. I thought you had to feed more N than P to counter a fade. I do have some fish emulsion (alaska) at 5/1/1, and I have used this to provide N in veg and counter fade in flower, but have not added late to flower.

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I have found molasses to slow the fade. Here's my theory/thoughts about why. Yes, the microbes take in some of the residual nitrogen from your soil to balance their intake of the newly added carbon (molasses). BUT, you are causing a big bloom of bacteria. What happens when this bloom of bacteria returns back down to it's "equilibrium" level? Lots and lots of bacteria die off or get consumed by higher-level microbes. What happens when bacteria die off or get consumed? You guessed it. Plant available nutrients, especially nitrogen, get released. This is what I mean by kick starting nutrient cycling.

Yes, the fish hydrolysate has a bigger P number than N number, but it still supplies a respectable serving of N. Hydrolysate inherently contains many, many more beneficial compounds than emulsion, simply due to the source material and production process. It is MUCH healthier for your soil microbiology, and therefore does more to kickstart nutrient cycling. Also, you need to be very careful about overdoing the soluble nitrogen in mid-late bloom. You want nitrogen to be available, but you want the plant to be in the "drivers seat" as it were. Adding too much soluble nitrogen (like overdoing the high-N fish emulsion) does not allow the plant to regulate it's nitrogen uptake as well as we'd like.

Make sense?

SpicySativa said:

Make sense?

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Yes, kinda. Thanks for the response.
I have recently feed molasses & noticed more fade the next day. Not sure if this was just continued fade, or increased from mol. I could not tell if the fade was slowed long term.
We agree that hydrolysate is a more 'healthy' product, and it has some N. But I have not seen it correct a fade.
I am starting to think that I have a sensitive pheno. I have been running OGK18 for a while, and been chasing early fade for a couple of grows. These lime green leaves are tough to read, and does not take much to go to yellow.

You can't "correct" a fade that has already happened. Leaves that are already yellowed significantly will keep right on yellowing no matter what you throw at them.

I didn't mean to say that either the molasses or hydrolysate will "correct" an early fade, or even bring it to a screaching halt. What I meant is that I have found both to SLOW the fade. Once a plant is in late bloom, there is very little you can do. If you start seeing early fade around, say, week 5, using fish hydrolysate or molasses may help stave it off a little longer.

^ I'm in that boat right now and I just fed fish emulsion and molasses with humic acid added. It usually takes a week to show a improvement. Next time just layer some good old fashioned fish bone meal at the bottom of the pot. My fades been happening early but I go very light on soil mixes because if rather be light that heavy, it'll gradually get heavier as my strains get more dialed in. Spicy your advice makes me happy I did what I did because sometimes I 2nd guess myself.

Molasses chokes your mycorrhizae. Better to not use it.

May I suggest,

http://oregonsonly.com/aphrodite

and

http://oregonsonly.com/mega-morpheus

Proof is in the flowers, and it has only been about a week of feeding with these two added in. There may be other ways to get what your wanting, this is of the best though, and can really only be experienced on your own.

I will feed all the way through late fruiting, and then just RO pH'd water.

keysareme said:

Molasses chokes your mycorrhizae. Better to not use it.

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where do you get that logic? Mycorrizae among other bacteria feed off the sugars in molasses

keysareme said:

Molasses chokes your mycorrhizae. Better to not use it.

May I suggest,

http://oregonsonly.com/aphrodite

and

http://oregonsonly.com/mega-morpheus

Proof is in the flowers, and it has only been about a week of feeding with these two added in. There may be other ways to get what your wanting, this is of the best though, and can really only be experienced on your own.

I will feed all the way through late fruiting, and then just RO pH'd water.

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Says who? The product rep?

Molasses has been used in organic gardens for longer than you or I have been alive.

keysareme said:

Molasses chokes your mycorrhizae. Better to not use it.

May I suggest,

http://oregonsonly.com/aphrodite

and

http://oregonsonly.com/mega-morpheus

Proof is in the flowers, and it has only been about a week of feeding with these two added in. There may be other ways to get what your wanting, this is of the best though, and can really only be experienced on your own.

I will feed all the way through late fruiting, and then just RO pH'd water.

Click to expand...

read trhe ingredients on your synthetic nutes ,,, uhhh sucrose... hmmm thats sugar ie molasses but molasses is organic

All you are doing is reading the label. Your not educating yourself on the source. Go ahead, pour black tar molasses on your plants and suffocate the roots and choke the mykos. Carbon is the source here.

Not all molasses is organic either. I don't eat molasses in any food at all, nor do I have a desire for it, so I don't want it in my medicine. I get my sugars from fruits and vegetables. These nutrients are the most organically certified you can get. omri and everything brah. so since you want to throw around the synthetic card, I'll just slice it up, cause this stuff has been certified. regardless of what organic certification means to you, this has it. Back to the initial post, to close it out I put very clearly " There may be other ways to get what your wanting, this is of the best though, and can really only be experienced on your own. "

^^^^ you are too funny . Some guys will believe anything a hydro shop salesman tells them. Have you ever grown before. I've been using organic molasses for over 10 years. I only use it 2 or 3 times during flower. All positive results. When I cook soil. Topdress with castings then water with molasses. The roots break down in days. That means the microbes are feeding on sugars like crazy and multiplying tremendously. I use seed sprout teas for sugars too. The sugars also increase brix levels. Molasses is also nutrients and a chelating agent. The sodium sulfate in molasses also neutralizes chloriine and ammonia and breaks down chloromine converting it into ammonia.

I will post a link from a study about sucrose and molasses on plants from the experimental botany department of oxford university when I get home. There's a Harvard study too.