giving defoliation during flower a try

I dont use 600w bulbs i startd with them 10-12 years ago. If you got a split unit or big a/c then im running my 1000w lights all day.. If im in the summer ill run (600s) only for cooling purposes other than that i dont see what your point is 600w bulbs and ballast been around for over 15-20 years so unless you are in your 40-50's you are just spreading some more bs on here..but continue on preaching people will start to notice youre not as smart as you think you are.. Why would you wanna run 600s over 1000s assuming cooling isnt an issue? Only reason to run 600s is cooling and electricity costs in the summer because of added cooling.. In winter months 1000w and the cold air from outside is all yah need brah.

Oh yeah i forgot you know everything u been using 600w before edison made the light bulb..when all we had was horse drawn carriages probably.. Cant believe people follow u and think u know what youre talking about smh*

Who cares when you started using 600w lighting.. That still doesnt mean you know anything and anyone who thinks you need to run high nitrogen bloom fertilizer during flowering to keep their plants green throughout just doesnt know what they are doing and thats a simple fact! I never have to add any nitrogen with any of my base fertilizer in flowering theres enough in almost any brand u buy.. Only time i have ever had to supplement N is with canna's organic bio kine on sativas strains that are 10 weekers just because of the elongated flowering time and to help promote the vigorous growth during first few weeks of stretch. Other than that your full of nonsense keep it coming lol

Plants that turn yellow during flowering occurs for a variety of reasons blaming pk boosters for such is a false statement and lack of nitrogen is also least of the problem here.. When you can trigger your plants into yellowing during the end of bloom through your nutrient regimen is when you truly become an expert grower..

Yellowing of leaves primarily occurs from numerous factors including: environmental issues such as heat stress or temp and humidity being wrong - you may be experiencing a root zone issue or potentially a lock out from excessive salts in your medium due to over fertilization or from a ph imbalance usually occurring using mediums containing peat based products and pre-fert soils such as ocean forest - happy frog etc..

Furthermore, i find that all base bloom ferts have plenty of nitrogen in their mixes to carry your threw bloom, during veg they have acquired all of the nitrogen they should need to drive the plant and stay green throughout bloom. Also it is natural for fan leaves and lower leaves to begin turning yellow and dying during bloom as light deprivation on lower parts of plant is not enough to promote photosynthesis and often the plant is just removing leaves that are no longer required to keep growing as they are taking stored energy from those leaves to produce their flowers..

Many times people dont feed enough ppm or ec whatever method you use to check the salt content of your nutrients.. Maintaining the proper level of fertilizers is critical in maintaining healthy plants through bloom. Often people over due nutrients and dont run off when watering causing nutrient lock out and an imbalance in ph in their pots especially when running too small a container or too large of a container..

Additionally, most cannabis varieties especially heavy indica dominant strains require additional calcium supplementation this will greatly improve the health of your plants and promote rigorous growth during critical blooming phase when plants are using the most energy throughout any period of the plants life cycle.

The number 1 cause of leaf yellowing is not from a lack of nitrogen its a PH issue and calcium issue. Flushing your containers with regular tap water (8.5-9.0) with 2-3 x the volume of your container followed by a feeding of just plain water and cal-mag supplement to your desired ph range (dependig on medium) at 5-7ml/gal works wonders. Then continue with regular feeding schedule. Blaming pk boosters for such yellowing and whatever other nonsense about nitrogen supplementing in flowering is not correct. Believe what you may. Cheers

Yeah lets get that popcorn flowing.. Notice he aint have much to say after i posted updated pics with this months skunk magazine with the date on it right.. He know he a a bullshitter and a hater, anyone who talks trash about anyone else doing something dif than him that works he throws an adult temper tantrum and tells lies to inflate his online ego. Wish people would be more open in helping others and being positive than trying to act like know its their way or highway. But hey thats life for yah i guess just sad see people dick riding this dude smh

pk_boosted2 said:

Yeah lets get that popcorn flowing.. Notice he aint have much to say after i posted updated pics with this months skunk magazine with the date on it right.. He know he a a bullshitter and a hater, anyone who talks trash about anyone else doing something dif than him that works he throws an adult temper tantrum and tells lies to inflate his online ego. Wish people would be more open in helping others and being positive than trying to act like know its their way or highway. But hey thats life for yah i guess just sad see people dick riding this dude smh

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Dude! Just relax, slow down a bit for us old guys

pk_boosted2 said:

I dont use 600w bulbs i startd with them 10-12 years ago. If you got a split unit or big a/c then im running my 1000w lights all day.. If im in the summer ill run (600s) only for cooling purposes other than that i dont see what your point is 600w bulbs and ballast been around for over 15-20 years so unless you are in your 40-50's you are just spreading some more bs on here..but continue on preaching people will start to notice youre not as smart as you think you are.. Why would you wanna run 600s over 1000s assuming cooling isnt an issue? Only reason to run 600s is cooling and electricity costs in the summer because of added cooling.. In winter months 1000w and the cold air from outside is all yah need brah.

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I could be wrong, but I don't think I am when I say a 600 produces more lumens per watt than a 1000.

In other words, if you compared 6 1000w to 10 600w (same power usage, obviously 6000w) the 10 600w bulbs would produce more actual light. Also with more light sources it would be possible to get a more even spread of light by having more options for positioning.

Of course you would need 4 more balasts (generally cheaper mind). That might skew the cost efficiency, if that is a concern

Im just gonna give this short response on that bcuz its too much information dont wanna get into id rather talk about growig that lighting..

Lumens are for humans and par is for plants

Lux and foot candles are way more important that lumen output because of the distance from the bulb and light source.. Air cooling and water cooling 1000w is way more efficient now than before and is preferable for all large growers because u can easily control heat.. When heat is an issue using 600s isnt bad they just dont produce same yields as 1000w because they arent as intense and concentrated over a specific area (foot candles and lux) watt for watt 1000s still best bang for buck. 600s are a great alternative but need more ballasts wires reflectors ducting etc.. Only run them in hot summer months if need be. Otherwise 1000w where its at..

Got new open ended 1000w hid bulbs now that are no joke they run at about 1200w but cant air cool em or water cool em u need commercial a/c or mini split.. But results are killer man. Produce crazy fckin heat though like running bare danglers in your rooms.

....oh the drama, and confusion, and the insatiable need to complicate matters.

Growan said:

I could be wrong, but I don't think I am when I say a 600 produces more lumens per watt than a 1000.

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It does, reason why I went with a 600W. You're buying light.

They had just been released and the only manufacturer was Osram Sylvania. Ballasts were even hard to find, so, I built my own using a J box and 25' extension cord, Diamond lights small hood with specular insert that I retrofitted. Allowed me to place the ballast out of the grow room so heat gain wasn't hard to deal with.

UB

There you go again.....

pk_boosted2 said:

The number 1 cause of leaf yellowing is not from a lack of nitrogen its a PH issue and calcium issue.

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bullshit

You should we would love to here it lol

Base ferts have enough N in them carry through bloom. Of plants use nitrogen stored in older leaves it doesnt mean they are deficient of N thats my point. So whatever

Keep using ur 600w bulbs i stay running 1000w

18/6 T5, .25% GH nutes light veg, strain specific
pic 1, results of defoliation during veg. stage. one month later, defoliated, removed all dead/nute/ph burned leaves and stopped appears any leaf removal drastically slows growth and development of top and bottom as roots also thin, theory states based on this, flowering stage would react the same way.
Pic 2 removed only dead parts of fan leaves, leaving as much green-->yellow as possible. Appears healthy and just falling short of heighth to bloom. showing again defoliation during veg may slow growth.
Pic 3, Left alone, brittle brown leaves removed only, switched last week to 12/12. Fan leaves are HUGE and carry up to 11 "tines" fingers ??,
Based on the KISS method, less is more at this point..
Can anyone tell me why I have up to 11 fingers on fans, lower branch fans developing more than usual 5-7 as well.

Thanks,

Of course defoliation stunts growth....only stands to reason.

I wouldn't worry about the number of leaves per leafset. Usually the lower, newest to plant, have less than the older ones which occur mid to late adult stage.

pk_boosted2 said:

Plants that turn yellow during flowering occurs for a variety of reasons blaming pk boosters for such is a false statement and lack of nitrogen is also least of the problem here.. When you can trigger your plants into yellowing during the end of bloom through your nutrient regimen is when you truly become an expert grower..

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Say what? A monkey can "trigger" their plants into yellowing. Only a master gardener can retain healthy green leaves until harvest. You don't have a clue when it comes to plant nutrition....but you sure like those cannabis snake oils.

Where in the hell are you getting this crazy stuff? I think you're making it up, posting for the sake of posting. Why I don't know. I hope that newbies question your "wisdom" and find out for themselves what's right and what's wrong.

UB

My results speak for themselves. Ill have my buddy come on here who is a high times journalist and works for grozine editorial process with Erik Biksa. He also worked for Advanced Nutrients before moving into cannabis journalis maybe if tou think im full of shit you would listen to him but lemme guess hes lying to sell products too right.

Go on grozine.com read some new scientific studies since you like evidence to be documented in scholarly articles and you can change your tune from your 1980s grow methods like u recommend everyone to follow. Mel Frank book is outdated alotnhas changed and been scientifically proven. U can think whatever u want about my input I know im doing things correctly in an effort to help other people.

NOT to belittle them and put people down like unso conveniently find the need to do everyday. People see u treat them like shit noone needs another mom or dad people want good help not an asshole tellin them how everything they r trying to do isnt right cus its against what "u think".. So please refrain thank you

So UB it was you that turned the world on to 600's? Kudos to you sir!!! Perhaps it was your schematic I used to build mine 25 years ago .

Uncle Ben said:

Say what? A monkey can "trigger" their plants into yellowing. Only a master gardener can retain healthy green leaves until harvest. You don't have a clue when it comes to plant nutrition....but you sure like those cannabis snake oils.

Where in the hell are you getting this crazy stuff? I think you're making it up, posting for the sake of posting. Why I don't know. I hope that newbies question your "wisdom" and find out for themselves what's right and what's wrong.

UB

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I thought you said you weren't going to bother lol.

U dont want your plant to have green leaves all way through flower the point if relieving them of excess nitrogen to focus on bud production is what u want to do.. So idk wtf u are talking about u just keep sounding dumber and dumber

Removing excess nitrogen leads to yellowing in leaf structure so how u gonna ripen flowers when they still got nitrogen running through them? Lol ur funny man ur stuff what come out like absolute crap id love for you send the lab samples of your shit bot for resin production, thc content but also a tissue sample so u can see what ur doing wrong..

U want keep plants green through end of bloom? Lmao.. No u fuckin dont u want to be able to make plant yellow and suck up all of its stored nutrients when you want them too during last 2 weeks of bloom.. So please stop man ur really far off with ur old school approach to growing

30-40 years ago u would make alot of sense, but science has proven ur methods to be obsolete and quite ridiculous as that but plz anyone who wants to keep their plants completely green last day of bloom listening to you is sacrificing alot of things: yield, taste, quality and smoke but ok youre right lol